Vernadsky Research Base
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The Vernadsky Research Base () is a Ukrainian Antarctic research station at Marina Point on Galindez Island in the
Argentine Islands The Argentine Islands are a group of islands in the Wilhelm Archipelago of Antarctica, situated southwest of Petermann Island, and northwest of Cape Tuxen on Kyiv Peninsula in Graham Land. They were discovered by the French Antarctic Exped ...
, not far from
Kyiv Peninsula Kyiv Peninsula (, ) is the predominantly ice-covered, oval shaped peninsula projecting 35 km in northwest direction from the west side of Graham Land, Antarctic Peninsula. It is bounded by Flandres Bay to the northeast and Beascochea Bay ...
. The region is under territorial claims between three countries (see
Territorial claims in Antarctica Seven sovereign states – Argentina, Australia, Chile, France, New Zealand, Norway, and the United Kingdom – have made eight land claim, territorial claims in Antarctica. These countries have tended to place their Antarctic scientific observat ...
). The single Ukrainian Antarctic station is named after the mineralogist
Vladimir Vernadsky Vladimir Ivanovich Vernadsky (), also spelt Volodymyr Ivanovych Vernadsky (; – 6 January 1945), was a Russian, Ukrainian, and Soviet mineralogist and geochemist who is considered one of the founders of geochemistry, biogeochemistry, and radio ...
(1863–1945) who was the first president of the
National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine The National Academy of Sciences of Ukraine (NASU; , ; ''NAN Ukrainy'') is a self-governing state-funded organization in Ukraine that is the main center of development of Science and technology in Ukraine, science and technology by coordinatin ...
. A British research base was established in 1947 and transferred to Ukraine in 1996.Akademik Vernadskyi Antarctic station, chronology of events (Станція АКАДЕМІК ВЕРНАДСЬКИЙ: хроніка подій)
National Antarctic Scientific Center of Ukraine The National Antarctic Scientific Center (NANC) (, abbreviated as НАНЦ) is an organization of the Ukraine, Ukrainian government, part of the Ministry of Education and Science of Ukraine. The center operates Vernadsky Research Base and coordinat ...
.
Coordination and operational administration of the base is conducted by the
National Antarctic Scientific Center of Ukraine The National Antarctic Scientific Center (NANC) (, abbreviated as НАНЦ) is an organization of the Ukraine, Ukrainian government, part of the Ministry of Education and Science of Ukraine. The center operates Vernadsky Research Base and coordinat ...
which is part of Ministry of Education and Sciences of Ukraine. The closest Antarctic stations are
Palmer Station Palmer Station is a United States research station in Antarctica located on Anvers island (aka Antwerp Island), the only U.S. station on the continent located north of the Antarctic Circle. The first Palmer was built in 1965, but the current sit ...
of the United States and Yelcho Base of Chile, reopened in 2015.


History


British Faraday Station (Station F)

The research base was established in 1947 at the Wordie House site on Winter Island by the
Falkland Islands Dependencies The Falkland Islands Dependencies was the constitutional arrangement from 1843 until 1985 for administering the various British territories in List of Antarctic and sub-Antarctic islands, Sub-Antarctica and Antarctica which were governed from t ...
Survey (today
British Antarctic Survey The British Antarctic Survey (BAS) is the United Kingdom's national polar research institute. It has a dual purpose, to conduct polar science, enabling better understanding of list of global issues, global issues, and to provide an active prese ...
) as Argentine Islands. The Faraday Station existed for 49 years and 31 days (7 January 1947 – 6 February 1996) operated by FIDS and BAS. The primary purpose of the station was to research geophysics, meteorology, and ionospherics. In May 1954 the base moved from Winter Island to the present site on adjacent Galindez Island where the main building was named "Coronation House" in honor of the 1953
coronation of Elizabeth II The Coronation of the British monarch, coronation of Elizabeth II as queen of the United Kingdom and the other Commonwealth realms took place on 2 June 1953 at Westminster Abbey in London. Elizabeth acceded to the throne at the age of 25 upon th ...
. The personnel of the British Argentine Islands station (later Faraday Station) sometimes used the Argentine Groussac refuge station at
Petermann Island Petermann Island () is an island long, lying southwest of Hovgaard Island in the Wilhelm Archipelago, Antarctica. Location Petermann Island is off the Graham Coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. It is in the Wilhelm Archipelago, southwest of ...
. On 15 August 1977 it was renamed as Station F — Faraday after the
Argentine Air Force The Argentine Air Force (, or simply ''FAA'') is the air force of Argentina and one of three branches of the Armed Forces of the Argentine Republic. In 2018, it had 13,837 military and 6,900 civilian personnel. FAA commander in chief is Brigadie ...
established its own military base at Southern Thule in November 1976 (see Corbeta Uruguay base) during the 1970–1980s contestation of the region between Argentina and the
United Kingdom The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, commonly known as the United Kingdom (UK) or Britain, is a country in Northwestern Europe, off the coast of European mainland, the continental mainland. It comprises England, Scotlan ...
. The British base was renamed Faraday Station in honour of British scientist
Michael Faraday Michael Faraday (; 22 September 1791 – 25 August 1867) was an English chemist and physicist who contributed to the study of electrochemistry and electromagnetism. His main discoveries include the principles underlying electromagnetic inducti ...
. In September 1976 at
Rasmussen Island Rasmussen Island () is a small island in the north part of Waddington Bay, on the west coast of Graham Land. The north entrance to Waddington Bay was named " Cap Rasmussen" by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition, 1897–99, under Gerlache, but air p ...
a memorial cross was planted in honour of G H Hargreaves, M A Walker and G J Whitfield. On 14 August 1982 another memorial cross was planted at
Petermann Island Petermann Island () is an island long, lying southwest of Hovgaard Island in the Wilhelm Archipelago, Antarctica. Location Petermann Island is off the Graham Coast of the Antarctic Peninsula. It is in the Wilhelm Archipelago, southwest of ...
in honor of A C Morgan, K P Ockleton and J Coll.


Ukrainian Vernadsky Station

In 1992, after the
collapse of the Soviet Union The Soviet Union was formally dissolved as a sovereign state and subject of international law on 26 December 1991 by Declaration No. 142-N of the Soviet of the Republics of the Supreme Soviet of the Soviet Union. Declaration No. 142-Н of ...
, Russia declared itself the successor to all the Antarctic stations of the USSR and refused to transfer one of them to Ukraine. During February–August 1992, a number of initiative letters were sent by scientists and specialists, appeals of institutions and organizations to state bodies on the need to resume and continue Ukraine's activities in Antarctica. On 3 July 1992 the President of Ukraine,
Leonid Kravchuk Leonid Makarovych Kravchuk (, ; 10 January 1934 – 10 May 2022) was a Ukrainian politician and the first president of Ukraine, serving from 5 December 1991 until 19 July 1994. In 1992, he signed the Lisbon Protocol, undertaking to give up Ukrai ...
, issued a decree on Ukraine's participation in Antarctic research. In August 1992 the
Verkhovna Rada The Verkhovna Rada ( ; VR), officially the Verkhovna Rada of Ukraine, is the unicameralism, unicameral parliament of Ukraine. It consists of 450 Deputy (legislator), deputies presided over by a speaker. The Verkhovna Rada meets in the Verkhovn ...
approved the documents on Ukraine's accession to the Antarctic Treaty, and on 26 October 1993 the Center for Antarctic Studies (later the Ukrainian Antarctic Center) was established, headed by Petro Gozhyk. In November 1993, the United Kingdom circulated a proposal to the embassies to transfer the Faraday station on the island of Galindez to one of the states that did not yet have stations on the continent. This idea was picked up by Ukrainian diplomats - the then Ambassador of Ukraine to Britain Serhiy Komisarenko and Counselor of the Embassy for Science Roland Franco. On 21 November 1994 the Renaissance Foundation allocated $12,000 for the Ukraine Returns to Antarctica project. On 20 July 1995, in London, Ambassador of Ukraine Serhiy Komisarenko signed an intergovernmental agreement, and Petro Gozhyk, Director of the CAD, signed a Memorandum between the CAD and the BAS on the transfer of the Faraday Antarctic Station to Ukraine no later than 31 March 1996.
Ukraine Ukraine is a country in Eastern Europe. It is the List of European countries by area, second-largest country in Europe after Russia, which Russia–Ukraine border, borders it to the east and northeast. Ukraine also borders Belarus to the nor ...
took over the operation of the base in February 1996. It was sold by the UK for a symbolic one pound; the cost of disassembling the base with good environmental practices and standards would be too costly. On 6 February 1996, at 6:45 p.m., a yellow and blue flag was solemnly raised above the station. The first expedition was successful. For high professionalism shown in the extreme conditions of Antarctica in carrying out the tasks of the First Ukrainian Antarctic Expedition by the Decree of the President of Ukraine in April 1998 the Order of Merit of the III degree was awarded to G. P. Milinevsky (station chief), the Order of Courage of the III degree V. G. Bakhmutov (geophysics) and L. S. Govorukha (glaciologist). A monument with a list of participants of the First Antarctic Expedition remained at the station. Th
National Antarctic Scientific Center of Ukraine
continues a programme of
meteorology Meteorology is the scientific study of the Earth's atmosphere and short-term atmospheric phenomena (i.e. weather), with a focus on weather forecasting. It has applications in the military, aviation, energy production, transport, agricultur ...
, upper atmospheric physics, geomagnetism,
ozone Ozone () (or trioxygen) is an Inorganic compound, inorganic molecule with the chemical formula . It is a pale blue gas with a distinctively pungent smell. It is an allotrope of oxygen that is much less stable than the diatomic allotrope , break ...
,
seismology Seismology (; from Ancient Greek σεισμός (''seismós'') meaning "earthquake" and -λογία (''-logía'') meaning "study of") is the scientific study of earthquakes (or generally, quakes) and the generation and propagation of elastic ...
,
glaciology Glaciology (; ) is the scientific study of glaciers, or, more generally, ice and natural phenomena that involve ice. Glaciology is an interdisciplinary Earth science that integrates geophysics, geology, physical geography, geomorphology, clim ...
,
ecology Ecology () is the natural science of the relationships among living organisms and their Natural environment, environment. Ecology considers organisms at the individual, population, community (ecology), community, ecosystem, and biosphere lev ...
,
biology Biology is the scientific study of life and living organisms. It is a broad natural science that encompasses a wide range of fields and unifying principles that explain the structure, function, growth, History of life, origin, evolution, and ...
and
physiology Physiology (; ) is the science, scientific study of function (biology), functions and mechanism (biology), mechanisms in a life, living system. As a branches of science, subdiscipline of biology, physiology focuses on how organisms, organ syst ...
research. The purpose of the State Targeted Scientific and Technical Program for Antarctic Research for 2011–2020 is to ensure the conduct of basic and applied research in Antarctica, the effective operation of the Antarctic station "Academician Vernadsky", Ukraine's international obligations under the Antarctic Treaty and scientifically sound assessment of prospects for the development of biological and mineral resource potential of the region.


Climate

The climate of the base is classified as marine
subantarctic The sub-Antarctic zone is a physiographic region in the Southern Hemisphere, located immediately north of the Antarctic region. This translates roughly to a latitude of between 46th parallel south, 46° and 60th parallel south, 60° south of t ...
. The climate is strongly influenced by the surrounding
Pacific Ocean The Pacific Ocean is the largest and deepest of Earth's five Borders of the oceans, oceanic divisions. It extends from the Arctic Ocean in the north to the Southern Ocean, or, depending on the definition, to Antarctica in the south, and is ...
, moderating winter and summer temperatures. Thus, winter temperatures rarely fall below owing to the warmer waters while in summer, the cool waters and snow cover causes temperatures to rarely reach above . The mean annual temperature is although within the last decade, temperatures have risen with much of it in winter and autumn. Being located in the west coast of the
Antarctic Peninsula The Antarctic Peninsula, known as O'Higgins Land in Chile and Tierra de San Martin in Argentina, and originally as Graham Land in the United Kingdom and the Palmer Peninsula in the United States, is the northernmost part of mainland Antarctica. ...
, the climate is dominated by the
low pressure system In meteorology, a low-pressure area (LPA), low area or low is a region where the atmospheric pressure is lower than that of surrounding locations. It is the opposite of a high-pressure area. Low-pressure areas are commonly associated with inclem ...
s that develop over the Pacific Ocean and move eastwards towards the peninsula mountain range. This process leads to frequent precipitation and strong winds in the base. Unpredictable and short snowfalls and snowstorms occur often. On average, the base receives 300 days with snow per year.
Anticyclone A high-pressure area, high, or anticyclone, is an area near the surface of a planet where the atmospheric pressure is greater than the pressure in the surrounding regions. Highs are middle-scale meteorological features that result from interpl ...
weather patterns caused by high pressure systems in the interior of Antarctica or from the north are rare. In the cases that they occur, when the weather is influenced by the high pressure system from the interior of the continent, cold
air mass In meteorology, an air mass is a volume of air defined by its temperature and humidity. Air masses cover many hundreds or thousands of square miles, and adapt to the characteristics of the surface below them. They are classified according to ...
es from the south moves northwards. This can occasionally lead to foggy conditions and hoarfrost.


Statistics


Infrastructure


Main complex

The station consists of nine buildings standing on rock foundations. A 1961 extension at the east end of the hut provided living quarters for 15 people. Major alterations in 1980 updated the living and working accommodation. A two-storey extension provides sleeping accommodation for 24 people, a clothing store, boiler room and
reverse osmosis Reverse osmosis (RO) is a water purification process that uses a partially permeable membrane, semi-permeable membrane to separate water molecules from other substances. RO applies pressure to overcome osmotic pressure that favors even distribu ...
plant on the ground floor. Upstairs are a lounge, library, dining room, gift store and kitchen. Visitors could purchase $3 shots of
horilka Horilka ( ; ) is a Ukrainian alcoholic beverage. The word ''horilka'' may also be used in a generic sense in the Ukrainian language to mean vodka or other strong spirits and etymologically is similar to the Ukrainian word for 'to burn' - ''hor ...
(made on the premises) up until 2016 in the lounge. The old part of the building is now mostly laboratories and work rooms, together with the surgery and washrooms. The generator shed was erected in 1978–79, with the old one now used as a frozen food store and a carpenter's workshop. Other buildings include two non-magnetic buildings, a balloon-launching shed (now skidoo garage), and a general store.


Wordie House

Not part of the current Ukrainian Research Base, yet associated with the history of preceding British Faraday Station, the Wordie House served as a foundation of new British Antarctic station. Built on the site of an earlier British Graham Land Expedition sometime in 1935–36, it was destroyed, possibly by a
tsunami A tsunami ( ; from , ) is a series of waves in a water body caused by the displacement of a large volume of water, generally in an ocean or a large lake. Earthquakes, volcanic eruptions and underwater explosions (including detonations, ...
, in 1946.History of Faraday (Station F)
British Antarctic Survey.
The hut was named "Wordie House" after Sir
James Wordie Sir James Mann Wordie CBE FRS FRSGS LLD (26 April 1889 – 16 January 1962) was a Scottish polar explorer and geologist. Friends knew him as Jock Wordie. He was President of the Royal Geographical Society from 1951 to 1954. Early life an ...
, a member of 1914–16 Shackleton's
Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition The Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition of 1914–1917 is considered to be the last major expedition of the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration. Conceived by Ernest Shackleton, Sir Ernest Shackleton, the expedition was an attempt to make the ...
who visited during its construction. To commemorate the historic landmark, on 19 May 1995 the Wordie House at Winter Island has been restored and designated as Historic Site and Monument No. 62. After Faraday base complex was transferred to Ukraine, the new Vernadsky base personnel continued to temporarily supervise the Wordie House. In January 2007 the landmark was inspected by a conservation architect for BAS and since October 2009 the Wordie House is managed by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust under a "Memorandum of Understanding" with BAS.


Rasmussen Hut

At
Rasmussen Island Rasmussen Island () is a small island in the north part of Waddington Bay, on the west coast of Graham Land. The north entrance to Waddington Bay was named " Cap Rasmussen" by the Belgian Antarctic Expedition, 1897–99, under Gerlache, but air p ...
there is a hut that was under official use from March 1984 to 6 February 1996. Currently it is considered as closed, yet used occasionally by Ukrainian personnel from Vernadsky Station as an emergency refuge shelter and for recreation.


Operations


Climate research

As one of the longest operating bases in Antarctica, Vernadsky Station has been the subject of scientific research studies on long-term temperature trends that indicate global warming. A study published in the April 2013 issue of the International Journal of Climatology examined the daily observed temperature at the Faraday/Vernadsky station from 1947 to 2011. It concluded that “Faraday/Vernadsky is experiencing a significant warming trend of about 0.6°C/decade (1.1°F) over the last few decades. Concurrently, the magnitude of extremely cold temperatures has reduced.”Vernadsky Station -- TravelPod
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Postal services and tourism

Vernadsky Station operates several services for visiting tourists. A post office accepts postcards at a cost of US$2 each. This is one of only a few post offices where visitors may send mail from Antarctica. Stamps for letters cost $6. Mail will take several months to be delivered. In addition to selling postage and accepting outgoing mail, the post office sells commemorative postcards and envelopes for $2 to $3 each.


Staff

The station hosts 10 staff members in the summer and 5 in the winter.


In popular culture

The first Ukrainian expedition to the research base is featured in the '' Death and the Penguin'' (1996) novel by Ukrainian author
Andrey Kurkov Andrii Yuriyovych Kurkov (, ; born 23 April 1961) is a Ukrainian author and public intellectual who writes in Russian and Ukrainian. He is the author of 19 novels, including the bestselling '' Death and the Penguin'', nine books for children, a ...
, which was one of the first internationally successful books of independent Ukraine, as well as its sequel '' Penguin Lost'' (2002). On 6 February 2021
Google Google LLC (, ) is an American multinational corporation and technology company focusing on online advertising, search engine technology, cloud computing, computer software, quantum computing, e-commerce, consumer electronics, and artificial ...
celebrated the Vernadsky Research Base with a
Google Doodle Google Doodle is a special, temporary alteration of the logo on Google's homepages intended to commemorate holidays, events, achievements, and historical figures. The first Google Doodle honored the 1998 edition of the long-running annual Bu ...
.


Gallery

Vernadsky Station Dock.JPG, Wooden dock at Vernadsky Station Welcome Sign at Vernadsky Station.JPG, Welcome sign at Vernadsky Station Post Office at Vernadsky Station.JPG, Tourists visit the post office inside Vernadsky Station. File:Signpost at Vernadsky Station.JPG, A signpost at Vernadsky Station displays distances to various cities. Tourists Visit Vernadsky Station.JPG, Tourists visit Vernadsky Station. Water Tank at Vernadsky Station.JPG, Fuel tank at Vernadsky Station Faraday Bar.JPG, Faraday Bar inside Vernadsky Station


See also

* List of Antarctic research stations *
List of Antarctic field camps Many research stations in Antarctica support satellite field camps which are, in general, seasonal camps. The type of field camp can vary – some are permanent structures used during the annual Antarctic summer, whereas others are little more tha ...
*
Crime in Antarctica In ordinary language, a crime is an unlawful act punishable by a state or other authority. The term ''crime'' does not, in modern criminal law, have any simple and universally accepted definition,Farmer, Lindsay: "Crime, definitions of", in Cane ...
* Brown Station * Mount Tranchant * Noosfera (icebreaker)


References


External links

*
Official website National Antarctic Scientific Center
{{Authority control Science and technology in Ukraine Scientific organizations based in Ukraine Wilhelm Archipelago Outposts of Graham Land British Antarctic Survey 1947 establishments in Antarctica Ukraine–United Kingdom relations Ukraine and the Antarctic