Ulrich Almer was a
Swiss
Swiss may refer to:
* the adjectival form of Switzerland
* Swiss people
Places
* Swiss, Missouri
*Swiss, North Carolina
* Swiss, West Virginia
* Swiss, Wisconsin
Other uses
* Swiss-system tournament, in various games and sports
*Swiss Internati ...
mountain guide
A mountain guide is a specially trained and experienced professional mountaineer who is certified by local authorities or mountain guide associations. They are considered to be high-level experts in mountaineering, and are hired to instruct or ...
, born on 8 May 1849 in
Grindelwald
Grindelwald is a village and municipality in the Interlaken-Oberhasli administrative district in the canton of Berne. In addition to the village of Grindelwald, the municipality also includes the settlements of Alpiglen, Burglauenen, Grund, Itram ...
where he died on 4 September 1940. He made many
premieres in the
Alps
The Alps () ; german: Alpen ; it, Alpi ; rm, Alps ; sl, Alpe . are the highest and most extensive mountain range system that lies entirely in Europe, stretching approximately across seven Alpine countries (from west to east): France, ...
, at the beginning with his father
Christian Almer
220px, Christian Almer
Christian Almer (29 March 1826 – 17 May 1898) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism. Almer was born and died ...
, one of the great guides of the golden age of mountaineering, and was one of the first Swiss guides to visit the
Caucasus
The Caucasus () or Caucasia (), is a region between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, mainly comprising Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia (country), Georgia, and parts of Southern Russia. The Caucasus Mountains, including the Greater Caucasus range ...
.
Biography
Ulrich Almer performs about fifteen premieres including those of the
Aiguille de Blaitière
The Aiguille de Blaitière (3,522 m) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc Massif in Haute-Savoie, France
France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of overseas regions ...
and
Aiguille de Triolet. In 1874, on the descent after an attempt at the south face of
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc (french: Mont Blanc ; it, Monte Bianco , both meaning "white mountain") is the highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe, rising above sea level. It is the second-most prominent mountain in Europe, after Mount Elbrus, and i ...
, his roped party fell into a
crevasse
A crevasse is a deep crack, that forms in a glacier or ice sheet that can be a few inches across to over 40 feet. Crevasses form as a result of the movement and resulting stress associated with the shear stress generated when two semi-rigid pie ...
on the Brouillard glacier, JAG Marshal and Johann Fischer dying instantly; Ulrich Almer, unconscious but unharmed, manages to get out of the crevasse and join
Courmayeur
Courmayeur (; Valdôtain: ) is a town and ''comune'' in northern Italy, in the autonomous region of Aosta Valley.
History
The toponym ''Courmayeur'' has been mentioned as ''Curia majori'' (1233–1381), ''Corte Maggiore'' (1620), ''Cormoyeu'' (16 ...
. To make matters worse, thirty-eight years later, in 1912, during a descent of the
Aletschhorn, it was the turn of Andreas Fisher, Johann Fischer's son, and with the same guide, to be the victim of a fall in a crevasse. Ulrich Almer's reputation was definitely tarnished.
Ascents
* 1870 - Premiere of
Ailefroide with
William Auguste Coolidge with
Christian Almer
220px, Christian Almer
Christian Almer (29 March 1826 – 17 May 1898) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism. Almer was born and died ...
and Ch. Gertsch, on July 7
[François Labande ''Guide du Haut-Dauphiné. Massif des Ecrins'' Éditions de l'Envol, 1996 vol. 2]
* 1873 - Premiere of the northern tip of the
Aiguille de Blaitière
The Aiguille de Blaitière (3,522 m) is a mountain in the Mont Blanc Massif in Haute-Savoie, France
France (), officially the French Republic ( ), is a country primarily located in Western Europe. It also comprises of overseas regions ...
with Thomas Stuart Kennedy, J. A. G. Marshall and Johann Fisher
* 1874 - Premiere of the
aiguille de Triolet with J. A. G. Marshall and Johann Fisher, on August 26
* 1874 - Attempt on the south face of
Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc (french: Mont Blanc ; it, Monte Bianco , both meaning "white mountain") is the highest mountain in the Alps and Western Europe, rising above sea level. It is the second-most prominent mountain in Europe, after Mount Elbrus, and i ...
with J. G. A. Marshal and Johann Fisher, on August 31. They had probably made in passing the first point of the point which will be called later
pic Eccles
* 1875 - Premiere of the
roche de la Muzelle with W. A. Coolidge and
Christian Almer
220px, Christian Almer
Christian Almer (29 March 1826 – 17 May 1898) was a Swiss mountain guide and the first ascentionist of many prominent mountains in the western Alps during the golden and silver ages of alpinism. Almer was born and died ...
, on July 2
[François Labande ''Guide du Haut-Dauphiné. Massif des Ecrins'' Editions of the flight. 1998 vol 3]
* 1876 - Premiere of the western summit of
Droites, with W.A. Coolidge and Christian Almer, on July 18
* 1876 - First of the south-eastern ridge of
Täschhorn
The Täschhorn (4,491 m) is a mountain in the Pennine Alps
The Alps () ; german: Alpen ; it, Alpi ; rm, Alps ; sl, Alpe . are the highest and most extensive mountain range system that lies entirely in Europe, stretching approximat ...
with James Jackson
* 1877 - with William Auguste Coolidge and Christian Almer, on July 14
* 1891 - First crossing of
Meije in a west–east direction from the Grand Pic to the Doigt de Dieu with J.-H. Gibson and Fritz Boss
* 1883 - First ascent of the northwest ridge of the
Schreckhorn via Andersongrat route with Aloys Pollinger, John Stafford Anderson and G. P. Baker
* 1884 - First crossing of the
Breithorn with John Stafford Anderson and Aloys Pollinger, on August 16, making in passing the first of the secondary summits of the Eastern Breithorn, the Breithornzwillinge and the
Roccia Nera
The Roccia Nera (Italian for ''Black Rock'', french: Roche noire,l ...
, considered today in the list of 82 ''Alpine summits over 4000 meters'')
[Maurice Brandt, '' Guide des Alpes Valaisannes Vol.4, from Theodulpass to Monte Moro '', ]Swiss Alpine Club
The Swiss Alpine Club (german: Schweizer Alpen-Club, french: Club Alpin Suisse, it, Club Alpino Svizzero, rm, Club Alpin Svizzer) is the largest mountaineering club in Switzerland. It was founded in 1863 in Olten and it is now composed of 111 ...
(CAS)
* 1888 - First ascent of the northern summit of
Ushba (
Caucasus
The Caucasus () or Caucasia (), is a region between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea, mainly comprising Armenia, Azerbaijan, Georgia (country), Georgia, and parts of Southern Russia. The Caucasus Mountains, including the Greater Caucasus range ...
) with John Garford Cockin
* 1888 - First ascent of
Shkhara
Shkhara ( ka, შხარა) is the highest point in the nation of Georgia It is located near the Russian-Georgian border, in Russia's Kabardino-Balkaria region on the northern side, and the Svaneti region of Georgia in the south. Shkhara lies ...
with J. Cockin and C. Roth
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Almer, Ulrich
1849 births
1940 deaths
People from Interlaken-Oberhasli District
Alpine guides
Swiss mountain climbers
People from Grindelwald