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Ulos is the traditional tenun fabric of the
Batak people Batak is a collective term used to identify a number of closely related Austronesian peoples, Austronesian ethnic groups predominantly found in North Sumatra, Indonesia, who speak Batak languages. The term is used to include the Karo people ( ...
of
North Sumatra North Sumatra () is a Provinces of Indonesia, province of Indonesia located in the northern part of the island of Sumatra. Its capital and largest city is Medan on the east coast of the island. It borders Aceh to the northwest, Riau to the sou ...
in
Indonesia Indonesia, officially the Republic of Indonesia, is a country in Southeast Asia and Oceania, between the Indian Ocean, Indian and Pacific Ocean, Pacific oceans. Comprising over List of islands of Indonesia, 17,000 islands, including Sumatra, ...
. The ulos is normally worn draped over the shoulder or shoulders, or in weddings to ceremonially bind the bride and groom together. Ulos are traditionally hand-woven. With increasing modernization, ulos lost its significance. In traditional marriage ceremony, the ulos is given by the bride's parents to the groom's mother as ulos ''pargomgom''.


History

According to the Batak people, there are three sources of warmth for humans: Sun, Fire, and Ulos. They created something that could give them warmth, also believed to be able to give the men bravery and the women strength against infertility. At first, Ulos was only used as an ordinary cloth, but it later developed into a symbol of love and traditional ceremony requirements. There are many kinds and motifs of ulos. If ulos is used by a man, the upper part of it is called ''ande-ande'', the lower called ''singkot'', and the one used on the head is called ''tali-tali'', or ''bulang-bulang''. Ulos Jugja, Sadum, Ragidup, and Runjat are only used on some occasions.


Usage

When Ulos is used by a female, the bottom is called ''haen'', the back is called ''hoba-hoba'', and if it is used as a scarf, it is called ''ampe-ampe''; if used as a head cover, it is called ''saong''; and if used to carry a baby, it is called ''parompa''. The females usually wear a black long dress and head cover. ''Siabithonon'' (worn on the body as a shirt or sarong) ulos are ragidup, sibolang, runjat, and jobit. ''Sihadanghononton'' (used as head cover) ulos are sirara, sumbat, bolean, mangiring, surisuri, and sadum. ''Sitalitalihononton'' (to be tied at the hip) ulos are tumtuman, mangiring, and padangrusa. Ulos as a love symbol is called ''mangulosi''. In Batak culture, ''mangulosi'' (giving ulos) is a symbol of love to the receiver. There are common rules: ''mangulosi'' can only be done by people who have a family relationship or to give it to lower social status people. For example, parents can ''mangulosi'' their children, but not the opposite. To ''mangulosi'' a child who gives birth to their first child, the ulos given is ''ragidup sinagok''. Ulos given to a special guest is ulos ''ragidup silingo''.


Production

Ulos is made with a manual loom machine. A spinner ( Sorha) is used to make cotton into yards. Palabuan (''periuk tanah'', an
earthenware Earthenware is glazed or unglazed Vitrification#Ceramics, nonvitreous pottery that has normally been fired below . Basic earthenware, often called terracotta, absorbs liquids such as water. However, earthenware can be made impervious to liquids ...
pot) is used to save coloring water. Ulos are made of
cotton Cotton (), first recorded in ancient India, is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus '' Gossypium'' in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure ...
.


See also

* Ikat * Balinese textiles *
Kebaya A kebaya is an upper garment traditionally worn by women in Southeast Asia, notably in Brunei, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, and Southern Thailand. Kebaya is an upper garment opened at the front that is traditionally made from lightweight fa ...
*
Batik Batik is a dyeing technique using wax Resist dyeing, resist. The term is also used to describe patterned textiles created with that technique. Batik is made by drawing or stamping wax on a cloth to prevent colour absorption during the dyein ...


References


External links


Collection of Batak Toba ulosVarious ulos
{{Indonesia topics Batak Textile industry of Indonesia