Udwada Atash Behram
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Udvada is a town situated in
Pardi Pardi is a town and a municipality in Valsad district in the Indian state of Gujarat. Roughly 14 km south of the district headquarters city of Valsad, has a rail station on the Mumbai-Vadodara line of Western Railway (India). National Hig ...
taluka in the
Valsad district Valsad district (previously Bulsar district) is one of the 34 Districts of Gujarat, districts in the West India, Western Indian state of Gujarat. It is bound by Navsari district to the north, Nashik district of Maharashtra state to the east, and ...
in the state of
Gujarat Gujarat () is a States of India, state along the Western India, western coast of India. Its coastline of about is the longest in the country, most of which lies on the Kathiawar peninsula. Gujarat is the List of states and union territories ...
,
India India, officially the Republic of India, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, seventh-largest country by area; the List of countries by population (United Nations), most populous country since ...
. Udvada is a coastal town located around 24 km from the
Valsad Valsad (Pronunciation: ‹alsɑɖ, historically known as Bulsar, is a town and a municipality in Valsad district of the Indian state of Gujarat. It is the district headquarters of Valsad district. Valsad is located north of Vapi and shares bor ...
city. The Zoroastrian temple, Udvada Atash Behram is situated here.


Etymology

The name ''Udvada'' means the 'grazing ground of camels', which it used to be before it became a fishing town.


Geography

Udvada is situated on the mouth of Kolak River. It also has a hill on the outskirts of the town. It is neighbours with Daman and Diu and Dadra and Nagar haveli which is a Union Territory of India.


Transport

The town is served by Udvada railway station for passenger trains &
Vapi Railway Station Vapi railway station (station code:- VAPI) is a railway station on the Western Railway zone, Western Railway network in the state of Gujarat. It is located in Vapi city. It is a major railway station in South Gujarat after . Vapi is "A" catego ...
for mail exp & superfast trains including with tejas, Shatabdi, which lies on
New Delhi–Mumbai main line New or NEW may refer to: Music * New, singer of K-pop group The Boyz * ''New'' (album), by Paul McCartney, 2013 ** "New" (Paul McCartney song), 2013 * ''New'' (EP), by Regurgitator, 1995 * "New" (Daya song), 2017 * "New" (No Doubt song), 1 ...
. The nearest airport is
Surat Airport Surat Airport is an international airport serving Surat, Gujarat, India. It is located in Magdalla, situated 12 km (6.4 mi) from the city centre. It has a total area of 770 acres (312 ha) and is the second busiest airport in Gujarat ...
in
Surat Surat (Gujarati Language, Gujarati: ) is a city in the western Indian States and territories of India, state of Gujarat. The word Surat directly translates to ''face'' in Urdu, Gujarati language, Gujarati and Hindi. Located on the banks of t ...
. Mumbai is the biggest airport nearby.


Zoroastrianism


The Atash Behram

The Udvada Atash Behram () is the most sacred of the Zoroastrian fire temples in India and the oldest continuously burning fire-temple fire in India. The Udvada ''Atash Behram'' is one of nine ''Atash Behram''s worldwide, eight of which are in western
India India, officially the Republic of India, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, seventh-largest country by area; the List of countries by population (United Nations), most populous country since ...
(four in
Mumbai Mumbai ( ; ), also known as Bombay ( ; its official name until 1995), is the capital city of the Indian state of Maharashtra. Mumbai is the financial capital and the most populous city proper of India with an estimated population of 12 ...
, two in
Surat Surat (Gujarati Language, Gujarati: ) is a city in the western Indian States and territories of India, state of Gujarat. The word Surat directly translates to ''face'' in Urdu, Gujarati language, Gujarati and Hindi. Located on the banks of t ...
, one in
Navsari Navsari is the ninth biggest city in the state of Gujarat in India. It is the administrative headquarters of Navsari District. Navsari is between Surat and Mumbai. It is a twin city of Surat, 37 km to the north. At the 2011 Census of Ind ...
, and the one in Udvada), and one of which is in
Yazd Yazd (; ) is a city in the Central District of Yazd County, Yazd province, Iran, serving as capital of the province, the county, and the district. At the 2016 census, its population was 529,673. Since 2017, the historical city of Yazd is rec ...
, in central
Iran Iran, officially the Islamic Republic of Iran (IRI) and also known as Persia, is a country in West Asia. It borders Iraq to the west, Turkey, Azerbaijan, and Armenia to the northwest, the Caspian Sea to the north, Turkmenistan to the nort ...
. The importance of Udvada in
Parsi The Parsis or Parsees () are a Zoroastrian ethnic group in the Indian subcontinent. They are descended from Persian refugees who migrated to the Indian subcontinent during and after the Arab-Islamic conquest of Iran in the 7th century, w ...
(Indian Zoroastrian) history and religion centres around the ''Atash Behram'' (from
Middle Persian Middle Persian, also known by its endonym PÄrsÄ«k or PÄrsÄ«g ( Inscriptional Pahlavi script: , Manichaean script: , Avestan script: ) in its later form, is a Western Middle Iranian language which became the literary language of the Sasania ...
''Atash Warharan'' for 'Victorious Fire', the highest grade of ritual fire of the Zoroastrians) housed in the fire temple there.


History

Following the
Muslim conquest The Muslim conquests, Muslim invasions, Islamic conquests, including Arab conquests, Arab Islamic conquests, also Iranian Muslim conquests, Turkic Muslim conquests etc. *Early Muslim conquests **Ridda Wars **Muslim conquest of Persia ***Muslim conq ...
of most of
Greater Iran Greater Iran or Greater Persia ( ), also called the Iranosphere or the Persosphere, is an expression that denotes a wide socio-cultural region comprising parts of West Asia, the South Caucasus, Central Asia, South Asia, and East Asia (specifica ...
in the 7th century, Zoroastrians gradually became a marginalized community, and by about the 10th century, the formerly Zoroastrian-held territories had become largely Islamic. One group of Zoroastrians fled from
Greater Khorasan KhorasanDabeersiaghi, Commentary on Safarnâma-e Nâsir Khusraw, 6th Ed. Tehran, Zavvâr: 1375 (Solar Hijri Calendar) 235–236 (; , ) is a historical eastern region in the Iranian Plateau in West Asia, West and Central Asia that encompasses wes ...
to the west coast of India in order to preserve their religious customs and beliefs. Upon landing, the refugees founded the settlement of Sanjan, which lies about 30  km south of Udvada. According to the same legend, on their journey, the Zoroastrians had carried ash from a sacred fire, which a priest is said to have then used for the bed of the Sanjan fire when it was consecrated. A related legend recounts that this fire was consecrated as Atash Bahram fires traditionally are, that is, out of 16 fires, including that of a funeral pyre, a shepherd's hearth, a goldsmith's hearth, a potter's kiln and from a fire caused by lightning. Some centuries after their arrival (probably in the late 14th century), Sanjan was attacked by troops of the
Delhi Sultanate The Delhi Sultanate or the Sultanate of Delhi was a Medieval India, late medieval empire primarily based in Delhi that stretched over large parts of the Indian subcontinent for more than three centuries.
(possibly those of
Muhammad bin Tughluq Muhammad bin Tughluq (; ; 1290 – 20 March 1351), or Muhammad II, also named Jauna Khan as Crown Prince, further known by his epithets, The Eccentric Prince, or The Mad Sultan, was the eighteenth Sultan of Delhi. He reigned from 4 February 1 ...
) and the Parsis fled again, into caves in the nearby Barhot hills, 14 km south of Sanjan. The sacred fire went with them. Several years later it was installed in Navsari. In the 18th century, a decision was made to return the flame to Sanjan, but along the way, the priests preferred to remain in Udvada, where the fire temple was consecrated in 1742. The first recorded use of the name in reference to the fire there appears in a 1905 work by Jivanji Jamshedji Modi, who made several allusions to the "Iranshah Fire" within the space of two pages. In 1920, when Shahpurshah Hodivala published his English language translation of the
Qissa-i Sanjan The Story of Sanjan (also ''Qissa-i Sanjan'' or ''Kisse-i Sanjan'') (, ) is an account of the early years of Zoroastrian settlers on the Indian subcontinent that was originally written in 1599 CE by Parsi priest, Bahman Kaikobad.Yazdegerd III Yazdegerd III (also Romanized as ''Yazdgerd'', ''Yazdgird'') was the last Sasanian Empire, Sasanian King of Kings from 632 to 651. His father was Shahriyar (son of Khosrow II), Shahriyar and his grandfather was Khosrow II. Ascending the throne a ...
, the last Zoroastrian king of Iran, this explanation is accepted by almost all devout Parsis, and even the few sceptics among them tend to refer to the fire as the ''Iranshah''. In 1998, Sarosh Bana, executive editor with Business India, approached the then Gujarat government to declare Udvada village a ‘ Heritage Precinct’. Bana organised a pictorial and architectural assessment of the village and set up a pilgrimage boarding facility and a museum showcasing the history of the Parsis and Udvada. The museum is now OPEN FOR PUBLIC.


Today

Ceremonial anniversary celebrations are held at the ''Atash Behram'' on the day of its founding. The ceremonies in Udvada are held on the ninth day of the ninth month in the ''Shahenshahi'' (imperial) version of the
Zoroastrian calendar Adherents of Zoroastrianism use three distinct versions of traditional calendars for Zoroastrian festivals, liturgical purposes. Those all derive from Middle Ages, medieval Iranian calendars and ultimately are based on the Babylonian calendar a ...
(which, in 2020, was on 21 April). Pilgrims from all over the world visit the temple on that day. Special ceremonies are also held on the 20th day of each month. In the Zoroastrian calendar, that day is dedicated to the divinity
Verethragna Verethragna or Bahram () is a Zoroastrian yazata. The neuter noun ''verethragna'' is related to Avestan ''verethra'', 'obstacle' and ''verethragnan'', 'victorious'. Representing this concept is the divinity Verethragna, who is the Hypostasis ( ...
(
Avestan Avestan ( ) is the liturgical language of Zoroastrianism. It belongs to the Iranian languages, Iranian branch of the Indo-European languages, Indo-European language family and was First language, originally spoken during the Avestan period, Old ...
,
Middle Persian Middle Persian, also known by its endonym PÄrsÄ«k or PÄrsÄ«g ( Inscriptional Pahlavi script: , Manichaean script: , Avestan script: ) in its later form, is a Western Middle Iranian language which became the literary language of the Sasania ...
''Waharam'', hence ''Behram''), hypostasis of victory. According to tradition and later as a result of the legal verdict, nine priestly families of Sanjan and their heirs are the sole lawful guardians of the fire and its temple. They alone have the right to enjoy their income. The position of high priest passes in turn from the head of one family to the head of another. Major renovations are being made in Udvada Atash Behram by a renowned construction company Shapoorji Pallonji since December 2018. It was due for a major internal renovation. It was a major concern for the Parsi community for it holds great value in creating the community of Parsis in India.


Ilm-e Kshnoom

Udvada is also the religious centre of the
Ilm-e-Kshnoom Ilm-e-Khshnoom ('science of ecstasy', or 'science of bliss') is a school of Zoroastrian thought, practiced by a very small minority of the Indian Zoroastrians ( Parsis/ Iranis), based on a mystic and esoteric, rather than literal, interpretation ...
, a very small Zoroastrian sect based on a mystic and esoteric interpretation of religious texts. Founded in the early 20th century, this sect found a following among the prominent Unvala family of Udvada (after whom adherents of the Ilm-e-Kshnoom are also called the 'Unvala sect'), who then attempted to establish new standards of worship at the Atash Behram. The Unvalas eventually took the caretakers of the Atash Behram to court (which led to the nine families also gaining a legal footing), and when in 1936 two priests of the Atash Behram died, the Unvalas refused to accept their nominated successors.
Maneckji Nusserwanji Dhalla Maneckji Nusserwanji Dhalla (22 September 1875 – 25 May 1956), also abbreviated M. N. Dhalla, was a Pakistani Zoroastrianism, Zoroastrian priest and religious scholar. Dhalla is best known for his criticism of the orthodox factions within th ...
, a highly respected theologian of the time, was called upon to intervene, and the issue was settled after over 25 years of discord. Dhalla had barely returned to his home town when the Ilm-e-Kshnoom sought to establish their priest as another 'high' priest.


Zoroastrian Heritage Museum

Udvada also hosts a Zoroastrian Heritage Museum, sponsored by the Government of Gujarat. This museum contains summaries of the teachings and beliefs of lord Ahura Mazda, it has a large write-up, that tells you about the history of the Parsi's and Ahura Mazda. It also has explanations and write-ups on the holy ceremony of the Parsis called Navjot. It also showcases brief biographies of some of the prominent personalities from the Parsi community and their contributions to India.


Preservation

The town, and its ambience, is under threat from the advancing sea (and consequent salinity) and commercialization. The Mumbai-based Save Udvada Committee, supported by the
India India, officially the Republic of India, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, seventh-largest country by area; the List of countries by population (United Nations), most populous country since ...
n and Gujarat state governments, is engaged in combating sea-driven erosion. There have also been attempts to get Udvada declared a
World Heritage Site World Heritage Sites are landmarks and areas with legal protection under an treaty, international treaty administered by UNESCO for having cultural, historical, or scientific significance. The sites are judged to contain "cultural and natural ...
, to protect the ancient residences and the fire temple. The typical Parsi homes here with their high ceilings, sloped roofs with ornamental skirting, and double ''s'' (porches) are over a century old, and considered worth preserving.


See also

*Udwadia, a toponymic surname from the town: ** Farokh Udwadia, Indian physician ** Firdaus E. Udwadia: Indian mechanical engineer, known for the Udwadia–Kalaba formulation **
Tehemton Erach Udwadia Tehemton Erach Udwadia (15 July 1934 – 7 January 2023) was an Indian surgeon and gastroenterologist, considered by many as the father of laparoscopic surgery in India. He was a general surgeon at two Mumbai hospitals, Breach Candy Hospital a ...
, Indian surgeon and gastroenterologist ** Zarir Udwadia, Indian pulmonologist and researcher


References

# # # # {{refend Cities and towns in Valsad district Zoroastrianism in India Parsi culture Parsi people