Torre Egger is one of the peaks in the

Southern Patagonian Ice Field The Southern Patagonian Ice Field (), located at the Southern Patagonic Andes between Chile and Argentina, is the world's second largest contiguous extrapolar ice field. It is the bigger of two remnant parts of the Patagonian Ice Sheet, which c ...

South America South America is a continent entirely in the Western Hemisphere and mostly in the Southern Hemisphere, with a considerably smaller portion in the Northern Hemisphere. It can also be described as the southern Subregion#Americas, subregion o ...

, located between

Argentina Argentina, officially the Argentine Republic, is a country in the southern half of South America. It covers an area of , making it the List of South American countries by area, second-largest country in South America after Brazil, the fourt ...

and

Chile Chile, officially the Republic of Chile, is a country in western South America. It is the southernmost country in the world and the closest to Antarctica, stretching along a narrow strip of land between the Andes, Andes Mountains and the Paci ...

,From Rodrigo Jordan, "Cerro Torre", in ''World Mountaineering'', Audrey Salkeld, editor, Bulfinch Press, , p. 156: Cerro Torre rises "on the border between Chile and Argentina." However, Chile and Argentina have long-standing border disputes. west of Cerro Chalten (or Fitz Roy). Torre Egger lies between

Cerro Torre Cerro Torre is one of the mountains of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field in South America. It is located on the border dividing Argentina and Chile, west of Fitz Roy (also known as Cerro Chaltén). At , the peak is the highest of a four mountai ...

, the highest in a four mountain chainTorre Egger 2005, Huberbuam
and

Cerro Standhardt The Cerro Standhardt is a mountain within the disputed area between Chile and Argentina. It is the tallest of a chain of four peaks, which also includes Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, and Herron Point. The mountain is named after German photographer ...

. It is named after the Austrian alpinist Toni Egger (1926–1959), who died while climbing on Cerro Torre.

First ascent

In 1976,

John Bragg John Bragg may refer to: * John Bragg (politician) (1806–1878), United States politician * John Bragg (businessman) (born 1940), Canadian businessman * John Bragg (climber), United States rock climber and alpine climber * Johnny Bragg (1925� ...

Jim Donini James "Jim" Donini (born July 23, 1943) is an American rock climber and alpinist, noted for a long history of cutting-edge climbs in Alaska and Patagonia. He was president of the American Alpine Club from 2006 to 2009, and a 1999 recipient of the ...

and Jay Wilson from the United States climbed Torre Egger by climbing first to the

col A col is the lowest point on a mountain ridge between two peaks; a mountain pass or saddle. COL, CoL or col may also refer to: Computers * Caldera OpenLinux, a defunct Linux distribution * , an HTML element specifying a column * A collision sig ...

between the peak and Cerro Torre, the Col of Conquest, and then up the ridge to the peak. The ascent was hampered by bad weather and took from December 1975 to February 22, 1976, when the 3-person team summited.

Other ascents

* 1986 ''Psycho Vertical (Southeast Face)'' (

UIAA The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, commonly known by its French name Union internationale des associations d'alpinisme (UIAA; ), was founded in August 1932 in Chamonix, France when 20 mountaineering associations met for ...

ED+ VII+ A3 90deg, 950m) Janez Jeglič, Silvo Karo, Franc Knez (

Slovenia Slovenia, officially the Republic of Slovenia, is a country in Central Europe. It borders Italy to the west, Austria to the north, Hungary to the northeast, Croatia to the south and southeast, and a short (46.6 km) coastline within the Adriati ...

), December 7, 1986. * 1987 ''Titanic (East Pillar)'' (UIAA VI+ A2 7b M5 WI4, 950m), Maurizio Giarolli and Elio Orlandi (

Italy Italy, officially the Italian Republic, is a country in Southern Europe, Southern and Western Europe, Western Europe. It consists of Italian Peninsula, a peninsula that extends into the Mediterranean Sea, with the Alps on its northern land b ...

), November 2 to 5, 1987. * 1994 ''Badlands'' ( YDS VI 5.10 A3 WI4+, 1000m)

Conrad Anker Conrad Anker (born November 27, 1962) is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author. He was the team leader of The North Face climbing team for 26 years until 2018. In 1999, he located George Mallory's body on Everest as a member of a sea ...

, Jay Smith and Steve Gerberding (US), FA 12 December 1994. * 2005 ''Titanic (East Pillar)'' (UIAA VI+ A2 7b M5 WI4, 950m) Steph Davis,

Dean Potter Dean Spaulding Potter (April 14, 1972 – May 16, 2015) was an American free climber, alpinist, BASE jumper, and highliner. He completed many hard first ascents, free solo ascents, speed ascents, and enchainments in Yosemite National Park and ...

. The first female ascent of Torre Egger and likely the first one-day ascent of the mountain. * 2012 ''Die another day (west face)'' (UIAA VIII A1) Matteo Bernasconi, Matteo Della Bordella. The route ends 25m below Col de Lux. * 2013 ''Notti Magiche (West face)'' (UIAA VIII A1) , Luca Schiera. From Col de Lux to the top, followed the Huber-Sharf, 200m of rock and ice. * 2016 ''Titanic (East Pillar)'' (UIAA VI+ A2 7b M5 WI4, 950m)

Marc-André Leclerc Marc-André Leclerc (October 10, 1992 – March 5, 2018) was a Canadian rock climber, ice and mixed climber, and alpinist. He is known for his solo ascents–often in winter–of major ice and alpine climbing routes. In 2016, he completed the fir ...

. First winter solo. * 2020 ''Marc-André’s Vision (East Pillar)'' (Grade unknown) Brette Harrington, Quentin Roberts, Horacio Gratton. A new route next to Titanic first spotted by the late Marc-André Leclerc while rappeling down. The route was named in his honor. In January 2008,

Rolando Garibotti Rolando Garibotti is an Argentinian and American professional climber, writer, and mountain guide. He is from Bariloche, Argentina. These days he splits his time between the town of El Chaltén, Argentina, and the Dolomites in Italy. Notable clim ...

and Colin Haley made the first complete traverse of the entire

massif A massif () is a principal mountain mass, such as a compact portion of a mountain range, containing one or more summits (e.g. France's Massif Central). In mountaineering literature, ''massif'' is frequently used to denote the main mass of an ...

, climbing Aguja Standhardt, Punta Herron, Torre Egger and Cerro Torre together. They rate their route at YDS VI 5.11 A1 WI6 Mushroom Ice 6, with total vertical gain. This had been "one of the world's most iconic, unclimbed lines", first attempted by Ermanno Salvaterra.

References

External links

Map of Cerro Torre area

Cerro Torre on SummitPost.org
{{DEFAULTSORT:Egger, Torre Mountains of Argentina Landforms of Santa Cruz Province, Argentina Torre Última Esperanza Province Landforms of Magallanes Region Climbing areas of Argentina Climbing areas of Chile Two-thousanders of the Andes