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Synthetic musks are a class of synthetic
aroma compound An aroma compound, also known as an odorant, aroma, fragrance, flavoring or flavor, is a chemical compound that has a smell or odor. For an individual chemical or class of chemical compounds to impart a smell or fragrance, it must be sufficien ...
s to emulate the scent of
deer musk Deer musk is a substance with a persistent odor, obtained from the caudal glands of the male musk deer. Although more commonly referred to as " musk", the term itself is often used to describe a wide variety of "musky" substances from other anim ...
and other animal
musk Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They include glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors. ' ...
s (
castoreum Castoreum is a yellowish exudate from the castor sacs of mature beavers used in combination with urine to territorial marking, scent mark their territory. Both beaver sexes have a pair of castor sacs and a pair of anal glands, located in two c ...
and
civet A civet () is a small, lean, mostly nocturnal mammal native to tropical Asia and Africa, especially the tropical forests. The term ''civet'' applies to over a dozen different species, mostly from the family Viverridae. Most of the species's div ...
). Synthetic musks have a clean, smooth and sweet scent lacking the fecal notes of animal musks. They are used as
flavoring A flavoring (or flavouring), also known as flavor (or flavour) or flavorant, is a food additive that is used to improve the taste or smell of food. It changes the perceptual impression of food as determined primarily by the chemoreceptors of ...
s and fixatives in
cosmetics Cosmetics are substances that are intended for application to the body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering appearance. They are mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either Natural product, natural source ...
,
detergent A detergent is a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants with Cleanliness, cleansing properties when in Concentration, dilute Solution (chemistry), solutions. There are a large variety of detergents. A common family is the alkylbenzene sulfonate ...
s,
perfume Perfume (, ) is a mixture of fragrance, fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds (fragrances), Fixative (perfumery), fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form, used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agre ...
s and
food Food is any substance consumed by an organism for Nutrient, nutritional support. Food is usually of plant, animal, or Fungus, fungal origin and contains essential nutrients such as carbohydrates, fats, protein (nutrient), proteins, vitamins, ...
s, supplying the base note of many perfume formulas. Most musk fragrance used in perfumery today is synthetic. Synthetic musks in a narrower sense are chemicals modeled after the main odorants in animal musk:
muscone Muscone is a macrocycle, macrocyclic ketone, an organic compound that is the primary contributor to the odor of deer musk. Natural muscone is obtained from musk, a glandular secretion of the musk deer, which has been used in perfumery and medicin ...
in deer musk, and
civetone Civetone is a macrocyclic ketone and the main odorous constituent of civet oil. It is a pheromone sourced from the African civet. It has a strong musky odor that becomes pleasant at extreme dilutions. Civetone is closely related to muscone, the ...
in civet. Muscone and civetone are macrocyclic ketones. Other structurally distinct compounds with similar odors are also known as musks.


Nitro musks

An artificial musk was obtained by Albert Baur in 1888 by condensing
toluene Toluene (), also known as toluol (), is a substituted aromatic hydrocarbon with the chemical formula , often abbreviated as , where Ph stands for the phenyl group. It is a colorless, water Water is an inorganic compound with the c ...
with isobutyl bromide in the presence of
aluminium chloride Aluminium chloride, also known as aluminium trichloride, is an inorganic compound with the formula . It forms a hexahydrate with the formula , containing six water molecules of hydration. Both the anhydrous form and the hexahydrate are col ...
, and nitrating the product. It was discovered accidentally as a result of Baur's attempts at producing a more effective form of
trinitrotoluene Troponin T (shortened TnT or TropT) is a part of the troponin complex, which are proteins integral to the contraction of skeletal and heart muscles. They are expressed in skeletal and cardiac myocytes. Troponin T binds to tropomyosin and help ...
(TNT). It appears that the odour depends upon the symmetry of the three nitro groups. * Musk xylene (1-''tert''-Butyl-3,5-dimethyl-2,4,6-trinitrobenzene) * Musk ketone (4'-''tert''-Butyl-2',6'-dimethyl-3',5'-dinitroacetophenone) * Musk ambrette (4-''tert''-butyl-3-methoxy-2,6-dinitrotoluene)


(Hydrated) indanes

* 6-Acetyl-1,1,2,3,3,5-hexamethylindane ** Phantolide (
Haarmann & Reimer Symrise AG is a German chemicals company that is a major producer of flavours and fragrances with sales of €4.999 billion i2024 Major competitors include Givaudan, Takasago International Corporation, International Flavors and Fragrances and ...
) * 4-Acetyl-1,1-dimethyl-6-tert-butylindane ** Celestolide (
IFF In logic and related fields such as mathematics and philosophy, "if and only if" (often shortened as "iff") is paraphrased by the biconditional, a logical connective between statements. The biconditional is true in two cases, where either both ...
) ** Crysolide (
Givaudan Roure Givaudan S.A. () is a Swiss multinational manufacturer of flavours, fragrances and active cosmetic ingredients. As of 2008, it was the world's largest company in the Flavoring, flavour and fragrance industry. Overview The company's scents and ...
) * 5-Acetyl-1,1,2,6-tetramethyl-3-isopropylindane ** Traseolide (
Quest A quest is a journey toward a specific mission or a goal. It serves as a plot device in mythology and fiction: a difficult journey towards a goal, often symbolic or allegorical. Tales of quests figure prominently in the folklore of every nat ...
) * 1,2,3,5,6,7-Hexahydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4H-inden-4-one ** Cashmeran, not a true musk but with musk odor (
IFF In logic and related fields such as mathematics and philosophy, "if and only if" (often shortened as "iff") is paraphrased by the biconditional, a logical connective between statements. The biconditional is true in two cases, where either both ...
)


Cyclic ethers

The creation of this class of musks was largely prompted through the need for eliminating the
nitro Nitro may refer to: Chemistry *Nitrogen, a chemical element and a gas except at very low temperatures, with which many compounds are formed: **Nitro compound, an organic compound containing one or more nitro functional groups, -NO2 **Nitro ligand ...
functional group from nitro-musks due to their photochemical reactivity and their instability in alkaline media. This was shown to be possible through the discovery of
ambroxide Ambroxide, widely known by the brand name Ambroxan, is a naturally occurring terpenoid and one of the key constituents responsible for the odor of ambergris. It is an autoxidation product of ambrein. Ambroxide is used in perfumery for creating a ...
, a non-nitro aromatic musk, which promoted research in the development of nitro-free musks. This led to the eventual discovery of phantolide, so named due to its commercialization by
Givaudan Givaudan S.A. () is a Swiss multinational manufacturer of flavours, fragrances and active cosmetic ingredients. As of 2008, it was the world's largest company in the flavour and fragrance industry. Overview The company's scents and flavours ...
without initial knowledge of its chemical structure (elucidated 4 years later). While poorer in smell strength, the performance and stability of this compound class in harsh detergents led to its common use, which spurred further development of other polycyclic musks including
Galaxolide Galaxolide (trade name; also known as Abbalide, Pearlide, Astrolide, Musk 50, Polarlide; chemical name 1,3,4,6,7,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8,-hexamethyl-cyclopenta 'g''enzopyran or HHCB, hexamethylindanopyran) is a synthetic musk with a clean sweet m ...
. * * **
Galaxolide Galaxolide (trade name; also known as Abbalide, Pearlide, Astrolide, Musk 50, Polarlide; chemical name 1,3,4,6,7,8-hexahydro-4,6,6,7,8,8,-hexamethyl-cyclopenta 'g''enzopyran or HHCB, hexamethylindanopyran) is a synthetic musk with a clean sweet m ...
(
IFF In logic and related fields such as mathematics and philosophy, "if and only if" (often shortened as "iff") is paraphrased by the biconditional, a logical connective between statements. The biconditional is true in two cases, where either both ...
)


Macrocyclic ketones

A class of artificial musk consisting of a single ring composed of more than 6 carbons (often 10–15). Of all artificial musks, these most resemble the primary odoriferous compound from Tonkin musk in its "large ringed" structure. While the macrocyclic musks extracted from plants consists of large ringed
lactone Lactones are cyclic carboxylic esters. They are derived from the corresponding hydroxycarboxylic acids by esterification. They can be saturated or unsaturated. Lactones are formed by lactonization, the intramolecular esterification of the corresp ...
s, all animal derived macrocyclic musks are
ketone In organic chemistry, a ketone is an organic compound with the structure , where R and R' can be a variety of carbon-containing substituents. Ketones contain a carbonyl group (a carbon-oxygen double bond C=O). The simplest ketone is acetone ( ...
s. Although muscone, the primary macrocyclic compound of musk was long known, it was only in 1926 that
Leopold Ruzicka Leopold may refer to: People * Leopold (given name), including a list of people named Leopold or Léopold * Leopold (surname) Fictional characters * Leopold (''The Simpsons''), Superintendent Chalmers' assistant on ''The Simpsons'' * Leopold B ...
was able to synthesize this compound in very small quantities. Despite this discovery and the discovery of other pathways for synthesis of macrocyclic musks, compounds of this class were not commercially produced and commonly utilized until the late 1990s due to difficulties in their synthesis and consequently higher price. * **
Muscone Muscone is a macrocycle, macrocyclic ketone, an organic compound that is the primary contributor to the odor of deer musk. Natural muscone is obtained from musk, a glandular secretion of the musk deer, which has been used in perfumery and medicin ...
* **
Civetone Civetone is a macrocyclic ketone and the main odorous constituent of civet oil. It is a pheromone sourced from the African civet. It has a strong musky odor that becomes pleasant at extreme dilutions. Civetone is closely related to muscone, the ...
* ** Exaltone (
Firmenich Firmenich SA was a Swiss company in the fragrance and flavor business. The company has created perfumes for over 125 years and produced a number of well-known flavors. Founded in 1895, it merged in May 2023 with the Dutch company DSM to form ...
) * ** Muscenone (
Firmenich Firmenich SA was a Swiss company in the fragrance and flavor business. The company has created perfumes for over 125 years and produced a number of well-known flavors. Founded in 1895, it merged in May 2023 with the Dutch company DSM to form ...
) * ** TM II SP ( Soda Aromatic) ** Ambretone ( Takasago)


Macrocyclic lactones

* 15-Pentadecanolide ** Cyclopentadecanolide (
Haarmann & Reimer Symrise AG is a German chemicals company that is a major producer of flavours and fragrances with sales of €4.999 billion i2024 Major competitors include Givaudan, Takasago International Corporation, International Flavors and Fragrances and ...
) ** Exaltolide (
Firmenich Firmenich SA was a Swiss company in the fragrance and flavor business. The company has created perfumes for over 125 years and produced a number of well-known flavors. Founded in 1895, it merged in May 2023 with the Dutch company DSM to form ...
) ** Pentalide ( Soda Aromatic) * Oxacyclohexadec-12/13-en-2-one ** Habanolide (
Firmenich Firmenich SA was a Swiss company in the fragrance and flavor business. The company has created perfumes for over 125 years and produced a number of well-known flavors. Founded in 1895, it merged in May 2023 with the Dutch company DSM to form ...
) ** Globalide (
Haarmann & Reimer Symrise AG is a German chemicals company that is a major producer of flavours and fragrances with sales of €4.999 billion i2024 Major competitors include Givaudan, Takasago International Corporation, International Flavors and Fragrances and ...
) * 12-Oxa-16-hexadecanolide ** Musk R 1 (
Quest A quest is a journey toward a specific mission or a goal. It serves as a plot device in mythology and fiction: a difficult journey towards a goal, often symbolic or allegorical. Tales of quests figure prominently in the folklore of every nat ...
) * α,ω-
Dodecanedioic acid Dodecanedioic acid (DDDA) is a dicarboxylic acid with the formula . A white solid, the compound finds a variety of applications ranging from polymers to materials. The unbranched compound is the most commonly encountered C12 dicarboxylic acid. ...
ethylene ester ** Arova 16 ( Degussa) * α,ω-Tridecanedioic acid ethylene ester ** Musk T ( Takasago) ** Ethylene Brassylate ( Degussa) * (10Z)-13-methyl-1-oxacyclopentadec-10-en-2-one ** (
Givaudan Roure Givaudan S.A. () is a Swiss multinational manufacturer of flavours, fragrances and active cosmetic ingredients. As of 2008, it was the world's largest company in the Flavoring, flavour and fragrance industry. Overview The company's scents and ...
) * ω-6-Hexadecenlactone ** Ambrettolide (found in Ambrette seed oil) * 14-Methylpentadecano-15-lactone ** Muscolide (found in Angelica seed oil)


Hydronaphthalenes

* 1-(1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octahydro-2,3,8,8,-tetramethyl-2-naphthyl)ethan-1-one * (-)-(6S,7S)-3,5,5,6,7,8,8-heptamethyl-5,6,7,8-tetrahydronaphthalene-2-carbaldehyde ** Vulcanolide (
Firmenich Firmenich SA was a Swiss company in the fragrance and flavor business. The company has created perfumes for over 125 years and produced a number of well-known flavors. Founded in 1895, it merged in May 2023 with the Dutch company DSM to form ...
) * 6-Acetyl-1,1,2,4,4,7-hexamethyltetraline (AHTN) ** Fixolide (
Givaudan Roure Givaudan S.A. () is a Swiss multinational manufacturer of flavours, fragrances and active cosmetic ingredients. As of 2008, it was the world's largest company in the Flavoring, flavour and fragrance industry. Overview The company's scents and ...
) ** Tonalide (
Haarmann & Reimer Symrise AG is a German chemicals company that is a major producer of flavours and fragrances with sales of €4.999 billion i2024 Major competitors include Givaudan, Takasago International Corporation, International Flavors and Fragrances and ...
) ** Tetralide ( Bush Boake Allen)


Alicyclic musks

Alicyclic musks, otherwise known as cycloalkyl ester or linear musks, are a relatively novel class of musk compounds. The first compound of this class was introduced 1975 with Cyclomusk, though similar structures were noted earlier in citronellyl oxalate and Rosamusk. Alicyclic musks are dramatically different in structure than previous musks (aromatic, polycyclic, macrocyclic) in that they are modified alkyl esters. Although they were discovered prior to 1980, it was only in 1990 with the discovery and introduction of Helvetolide at
Firmenich Firmenich SA was a Swiss company in the fragrance and flavor business. The company has created perfumes for over 125 years and produced a number of well-known flavors. Founded in 1895, it merged in May 2023 with the Dutch company DSM to form ...
that a compound of this class was produced at a commercial scale. Romandolide, a more ambrette and less fruity alicyclic musk compared to Helvetolide, was introduced ten years later.


Environmental and health issues

Synthetic musks are lipophilic compounds and tend to deposit and persist in fat tissues. Nitromusks and polycyclic musks – having been used for 100 years – have low
biodegradability Biodegradation is the breakdown of organic matter by microorganisms, such as bacteria and fungi. It is generally assumed to be a natural process, which differentiates it from composting. Composting is a human-driven process in which biodegrada ...
and accumulate in the environment.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Synthetic Musk Perfumes Perfume ingredients Chemical synthesis