Tomoa Narasaki
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is a Japanese professional rock climber who specializes in
bouldering Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
and
competition bouldering Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition climbing disciplines are lead ...
.


Early life

Narasaki started climbing at age 10, together with Sachi Amma, in Sachi's family climbing gym. Previously, he had been training apparatus gymnastics.


Climbing career


Competition climbing

Narasaki won the IFSC World Championships in bouldering in
2016 2016 was designated as: * International Year of Pulses by the sixty-eighth session of the United Nations General Assembly. * International Year of Global Understanding (IYGU) by the International Council for Science (ICSU), the Internationa ...
and
2019 This was the year in which the first known human case of COVID-19 was documented, preceding COVID-19 pandemic, the pandemic which was declared by the World Health Organization the following year. Up to that point, 2019 had been described as ...
, and was also the overall winner of the IFSC Climbing World Cup for bouldering in
2016 2016 was designated as: * International Year of Pulses by the sixty-eighth session of the United Nations General Assembly. * International Year of Global Understanding (IYGU) by the International Council for Science (ICSU), the Internationa ...
and
2019 This was the year in which the first known human case of COVID-19 was documented, preceding COVID-19 pandemic, the pandemic which was declared by the World Health Organization the following year. Up to that point, 2019 had been described as ...
. Narasaki formerly held the Japanese record for
competition speed climbing Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition climbing disciplines are lead ...
with a time of 5.73 seconds, which he secured in March 2021 at the Climbing Japan Cup speed competition. He devised the "Tomoa skip", a speed climbing technique to bypass one of the lower holds on the speed climbing wall. In 2019, Narasaki qualified for the
2020 Summer Olympics The officially the and officially branded as were an international multi-sport event that was held from 23 July to 8 August 2021 in Tokyo, Japan, with some of the preliminary sporting events beginning on 21 July 2021. Tokyo ...
in
Tokyo Tokyo, officially the Tokyo Metropolis, is the capital of Japan, capital and List of cities in Japan, most populous city in Japan. With a population of over 14 million in the city proper in 2023, it is List of largest cities, one of the most ...
by winning the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships. He went on to place fourth in the combined event at the Olympics. In 2023, Narasaki qualified for the
2024 Summer Olympics The 2024 Summer Olympics (), officially the Games of the XXXIII Olympiad () and branded as Paris 2024, were an international multi-sport event held in France from 26 July to 11 August 2024, with several events started from 24 July. P ...
in
Paris Paris () is the Capital city, capital and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, largest city of France. With an estimated population of 2,048,472 residents in January 2025 in an area of more than , Paris is the List of ci ...
by placing third in the combined event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships. At the Olympics, he finished in tenth place in the semifinals of the
combined event Combined track and field events are competitions in which athletes participate in a number of track and field events, earning points for their performance in each event, which adds to a total points score. Outdoors, the most common combined events ...
and did not move on to finals.


Bouldering

On December 1, 2019, Narasaki became the sixth climber to
flash Flash, flashes, or FLASH may refer to: Arts, entertainment, and media Fictional aliases * The Flash, several DC Comics superheroes with super speed: ** Flash (Jay Garrick) ** Barry Allen ** Wally West, the first Kid Flash and third adult Flash ...
a grade boulder after sending ''Decided'' in Mizugaki, Japan, on his first attempt. In 2021, Narasaki sent ''Asagimadara'' on his third attempt. In December 2023, he flashed Gakidō, originally graded , although Narasaki gave the boulder a grade of V14 after his send. Narasaki subsequently made the first ascent of the sit start to the climb, which he named Ashuradō and graded V15.


Personal life

On December 25, 2021, Narasaki and fellow Japanese climber Akiyo Noguchi announced their marriage on their respective social media pages. Narasaki's younger brother,
Meichi Narasaki Meichi Narasaki (楢﨑 明智 ''Narasaki Meichi'', born May 13, 1999) is a Japanese professional competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. His older brother Tomoa Narasaki is also a professional competition climber. Rank ...
, is also a professional climber.


Rankings


IFSC Climbing World Cup


IFSC Climbing World Championships


World Cup podiums


Lead


Bouldering


Bouldering & Lead


Olympic results


See also

*
List of grade milestones in rock climbing In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint (climbing), redpoint, onsight or flash (climbing), flash of a pitch (ascent/descent), single-pitch, multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch or bouldering, bouldering climbing route that ...
*
History of rock climbing In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines – bouldering, Pitch (climbing), single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing, big wall (and multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch) climbing – can trace their origins to late 19th-ce ...
* Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals


References


External links


Tomoa Narasaki's profile
on Adidas-rockstars.com
Tomoa Narasaki's profile
on Fiveten.com {{DEFAULTSORT:Narasaki, Tomoa Japanese rock climbers Living people 1996 births Sportspeople from Utsunomiya, Tochigi Asian Games medalists in sport climbing Sport climbers at the 2018 Asian Games Asian Games bronze medalists for Japan Medalists at the 2018 Asian Games Competitors at the 2017 World Games Sport climbers at the 2020 Summer Olympics Sport climbers at the 2024 Summer Olympics Olympic sport climbers for Japan IFSC Climbing World Championships medalists IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists Boulder climbers Japanese competition climbers