Tomas Kenneth Olsson (18 March 1976 – 16 May 2006) was a
Swedish adventurer
An adventure is an exciting experience or undertaking that is typically bold, sometimes risky. Adventures may be activities with danger such as traveling, exploring, skydiving, mountain climbing, scuba diving, river rafting, or other extreme ...
and
ski mountaineer. He was born in Kristinehamn but grew up in Borås. He took an engineering degree at Linköping University in 2001, after which he moved to
Chamonix
Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (; ; (no longer in use)), more commonly known simply as Chamonix (), is a communes of France, commune in the departments of France, department in the regions of France, region in Southeastern France. It was the site of the f ...
in France to focus on skiing. He specialized in skiing down some of the world's highest and steepest mountains. He had gone from the top of
Aconcagua
Aconcagua () is a mountain in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes mountain range, in Mendoza Province, Argentina. It is the highest mountain in the Americas, the highest outside Asia, and the highest in both the Western Hemisphere and the ...
in Argentina (6960 m),
Lenin Peak
Lenin Peak or Ibn Sina (Avicenna) Peak (, ; ; , renamed () in July 2006
(Tajik); for Russian tex
Muztagh Ata
Muztagh Ata (meaning 'Ice Mountain Father' in English), formerly known as Mount Tagharma and Wi-tagh, is the second highest of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau, with an elevation of . It is sometimes regarded a ...
(7546 m) and Kuksay Peak (7134 m) in China and
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
in Tibet (8201 m).
In May 2006, Olsson was found dead after attempting a first descent of the
North Face North face or Northface or The North Face may refer to:
* North face (Eiger), in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland
* North Face (Everest), in Himalaya, usually traversed ascending Everest from the north
* North face (Fairview Dome), a climbing route i ...
of
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
.
Biography
Tomas Olsson lived in Chamonix in France, where he worked as a professional
extreme skier.
Birth and early life
He was born in Kristinehamn and raised in
Borås
Borås ( , , ) is a city (officially, a locality) and the seat of Borås Municipality, Västra Götaland County, Sweden. It had 114,556 inhabitants in 2024. It is widely known for being a textile city, home to worldwide brands and companie ...
. In high school, he became aware of action sports. By the time of his MSc studies in Linköping, he was devoted to skiing and climbing. After graduating in 2001, he moved to Chamonix to pursue skiing.
Life in Chamonix
Based at Chamonix in the French Alps, Olsson dedicated himself to skiing and climbing. Multiple times a year, he would go to exotic locations to explore new environments and to test his own limits.
Tomas skied from the summit of Aconcagua (6960m) in Argentina, Peak Lenin (7134m) in Kyrgyzstan, Muztagh Ata (7546m) and Kuksay Peak (7134m) in China, Cho Oyu (8201m) in Tibet, and a volcano in Kamchatka in Siberia. Besides skiing, he had held lectures and worked in product development and promotions with Bergans of Norway and Silva Sweden.
Desire to ski down Everest
Olsson's ultimate goal, which was scheduled for spring 2006, was to once again stand on the summit of Everest. There, he planned that he and Norwegian
Tormod Granheim would become the first skiers in the world to ski down Everest's steep north side. At the end of March 2006, he set off to go to Everest.
As training for the Everest expedition in June 2005, he cycled alone from Stockholm to Chamonix, climbed Mont Blanc (4810m), and then rode back to Sweden.
Olsson, Granheim and photographer Fredrik Schenholm approached Everest from the Tibetan side in Spring 2006. Olsson climbed the mountain from Advanced Base Camp, 6400 meters above sea level, to the summit (8848 m) in a 2 days effort. The route he followed, known as the Mallory route, normally takes climbers five days to complete.
Olsson and Graneheim reached Everest's peak on 16 May 2006. The pair then skied into the
North Face North face or Northface or The North Face may refer to:
* North face (Eiger), in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland
* North Face (Everest), in Himalaya, usually traversed ascending Everest from the north
* North face (Fairview Dome), a climbing route i ...
by the
Norton Couloir, a 55 degree steep and nearly 3000 meter high mountain face. The North Col (North Face) Route is one of the most difficult of all the difficult routes to the top of the mountain. On May 16, 2006, after a full day of climbing, the two met up on the mountain and reached the summit. Exhausted, they wondered if they had the strength to ski down. Undeterred by their fatigue, they set off on skis down the North Face via the Norton Couloir at angles as steep as 60 degrees and a sheer 3,000 meter drop. Unfortunately, just as they set off, and after only skiing down the North Face approximately , one of Olsson's skis broke, adding extra tension to the already complex task. They tried to repair the ski with tape. A cliff intersecting the
couloir
A couloir (, "passage" or "corridor") is a narrow gully with a steep gradient in a mountainous terrain.Whittow, John (1984). ''Dictionary of Physical Geography''. London: Penguin, p. 121. .
Geology
A couloir may be a seam, scar, or fissure, o ...
forced the two to make an
abseil
Abseiling ( ; ), also known as rappelling ( ; ), is the controlled descent of a steep slope, such as a rock face, by moving down a rope. When abseiling, the person descending controls their own movement down a static or fixed rope, in cont ...
. A snow anchor failed and Olsson fell an estimated 2500 meters to his death. Granheim skied alone to the North Col.
Tomas Olsson was not the only one to attempt skiing down
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
this year he was part of "The Vikings are back: Climb + Sky-ski Everest expedition 2006" with the ambition to ski down the North Col route of
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
. As part of an ongoing project to ski the Seven summits, the Swedish expedition were involved in a project of climbing and sky-skiing down the Seven Summits.
The expedition consisted of Tomas Olsson, Tormod Granheim from Norway and Fredrik Schenholm. The guys successfully skied down Cho Oyu in fall, 2004. However, logistical problems prevented the pair from attempting a similar feat on Shisha Pangma. Olsson and Granheim had been training hard all winter in Chamonix, French Alps, for the upcoming Everest challenge. Fredrik Schenholm would join the expedition as a photographer.
Another expedition, Swedish Everest Ski expedition (Martin Letzter and Olof Sundstrom), also skied down Everest the same day as Tomas Olsson using an easier route.
They had already skied Elbrus, Denali, Aconcagua, Kosciuszko, and Kilimanjaro during the last three years. To reach
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
the team reached Tibet after driving 12,000 kilometers from Stockholm to Kathmandu, through such countries as Russia, Poland, Romania, Turkey, Iran, Pakistan and India, in a 13-year-old Land Rover Defender.
The team would have skied the Antarctica the coming winter if they would have been successful in completing their series by skiing
Mount Vinson
Vinson Massif () is a large mountain massif in Antarctica that is long and wide and lies within the Sentinel Range of the Ellsworth Mountains. It overlooks the Ronne Ice Shelf near the base of the Antarctic Peninsula. The massif is located a ...
during the Antarctic summer 2006/2007.
Mountain skiing
* 2002 –
Aconcagua
Aconcagua () is a mountain in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes mountain range, in Mendoza Province, Argentina. It is the highest mountain in the Americas, the highest outside Asia, and the highest in both the Western Hemisphere and the ...
– 6962 m
* 2002 –
Pik Lenin – 7134 m
* 2003 – Kuksay Peak – 7186 m
* 2003 –
Muztagh Ata
Muztagh Ata (meaning 'Ice Mountain Father' in English), formerly known as Mount Tagharma and Wi-tagh, is the second highest of the mountains which form the northern edge of the Tibetan Plateau, with an elevation of . It is sometimes regarded a ...
– 7546 m
* 2004 –
Cho Oyu
Cho Oyu ( Nepali: चोयु; ; ) is the sixth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. Cho Oyu means " Turquoise Goddess" in Tibetan. The mountain is the westernmost major peak of the '' Khumbu'' sub-section of the Mahalangur Him ...
– 8201 m
* 2006 –
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
– 8848 m
See also
*
List of people who died climbing Mount Everest
*
Tormod Granheim
*
David Sharp, who died the day before Olsson.
References
External links
SverigesRadio - Boråsare på Mount Everest - tänker åka skidor ner från toppen
{{DEFAULTSORT:Olsson, Tomas Kenneth
1976 births
2006 deaths
Mountaineering deaths on Mount Everest
Swedish summiters of Mount Everest
Swedish mountain climbers
People from Kristinehamn