, also known in English as is an island in the
Amami archipelago of the southern
Satsunan Islands
The is a geopolitical name for a group of islands that forms the northern part of the Ryukyu Islands. The whole island group belongs to Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan.
Major islands
* Satsunan Islands
** Ōsumi Islands with:
*** Tanegashima, Yakus ...
of
Kagoshima Prefecture
is a prefecture of Japan located on the island of Kyushu and the Ryukyu Islands. Kagoshima Prefecture has a population of 1,599,779 (1 January 2020) and has a geographic area of 9,187 km2 (3,547 sq mi). Kagoshima Prefecture borders Kumamoto P ...
,
Japan
Japan ( ja, 日本, or , and formally , ''Nihonkoku'') is an island country in East Asia. It is situated in the northwest Pacific Ocean, and is bordered on the west by the Sea of Japan, while extending from the Sea of Okhotsk in the north ...
.
The island, in area, has a population of approximately 27,000. The island is divided into three administrative
towns:
Tokunoshima,
Isen, and
Amagi. The largest population center on the island is the town of Kametsu, located along the eastern shore of the island within the administrative town of Tokunoshima. Much of the island is within the borders of
Amami Guntō National Park
is a national park in Kagoshima Prefecture, Japan. Established in 2017, the park comprises a land area of and
a sea area of . The national park includes areas of these islands: Tokunoshima, Kikai, Amami, Yoron, Okinoerabujima, Uke Island, K ...
.
The island is known for having the highest birth rates in Japan as well as a significant population of
supercentenarians (people living significantly beyond the age of 100).
Geography

Tokunoshima is the second largest island in the Amami islands, after
Amami Ōshima, and the 15th largest island in Japan. It is more generally included within the Satsunan and
Ryukyu archipelagos. Isolated from the other Amami islands, Tokunoshima is located halfway between Amami Ōshima and
Okinoerabujima.
The island is of volcanic origin with a length of approximately and width of . Most of the administrative towns of Tokunoshima and Amagi are covered in mountains and rolling hills, with Mount Inokawadake at above sea level as the island's highest peak. Mount Amagidake in the north has a height of . The administrative town of Isen along the southwestern slope of the island is more flat, with fertile soil suitable for agriculture. The coast of the island is largely rugged and rocky with small sandy beaches scattered throughout as well as a series of large cliffs on the southwest edge of the island. The island is surrounded by a
coral reef.
A series of large offshore rocks known as Tonbura Rocks are a prominent feature in the ocean off the northeastern coast of the island. The neighboring islands of Amami Ōshima,
Kakeromajima
or Kakeroma-tō is one of the Satsunan Islands, classed with the Amami archipelago between Kyūshū and Okinawa.
The island, in area, has a population of approximately 1,600 persons. Administratively it is part of the town of Setouchi in Ka ...
,
Yoroshima,
Ukejima to the northeast and Okinoerabujima to the southwest are all visible from the island. On exceptionally clear days, the twin volcanoes of
Iōtorishima, in
Okinawa Prefecture
is a prefecture of Japan. Okinawa Prefecture is the southernmost and westernmost prefecture of Japan, has a population of 1,457,162 (as of 2 February 2020) and a geographic area of 2,281 km2 (880 sq mi).
Naha is the capital and largest city o ...
, can be seen to the west.
The island falls within a
subtropical moist broadleaf forest ecoregion. Although Tokunoshima is subtropical, it receives sufficient rainfall that it has rainforests.
Much of the island remains covered in
laurel forest
Laurel forest, also called laurisilva or laurissilva, is a type of subtropical forest found in areas with high humidity and relatively stable, mild temperatures. The forest is characterized by broadleaf tree species with evergreen, glossy and elo ...
s, although many areas have been extensively cleared for agriculture. There are many caves on the island, the longest of which measures and is located in the area of Isen.
The climate of Tokunoshima is classified as a
humid subtropical climate
A humid subtropical climate is a zone of climate characterized by hot and humid summers, and cool to mild winters. These climates normally lie on the southeast side of all continents (except Antarctica), generally between latitudes 25° and 40° ...
(
Köppen climate classification ''Cfa'') with very warm summers and mild winters. The rainy season lasts from May through September. The island is subject to frequent
typhoons.
Fauna
Tokunoshima is home to several rare species
endemic to the island itself or more generally to the Amami islands. The
Amami rabbit is found only on Tokunoshima and Amami Ōshima and is listed as endangered. The Amami rabbit is sometimes called a
living fossil because it represents an ancient Asian lineage that has elsewhere disappeared. Also endangered is the
Tokunoshima spiny rat
The Tokunoshima spiny rat (''Tokudaia tokunoshimensis'') is a rodent found only on the island of Tokunoshima in the Ryukyu Islands of Japan. Due to its small habitat, it is considered endangered. It is commonly found in the secondary and primary ...
, found only on the island. Several bird species endemic to Tokunoshima and Amami Ōshima, such as
Lidth's jay, are also found. The island is also home to the venomous
habu snake
is a Ryukyuan and Japanese name referring to certain venomous snakes:
* The following species are found in the Ryukyu Islands of Japan:
** ''Protobothrops elegans'', a.k.a. the Sakishima habu, found in the southern Ryukyu Islands
** ''Protobothr ...
. The presence of habu has kept the forests on the island largely unvisited and more rugged areas relatively untouched.
History
It is uncertain when Tokunoshima was first settled. It is mentioned in the ancient Japanese chronicle ''
Nihon Shoki'' in the 720s.
Starting in the 11th century, Tokunoshima was the primary producer of a grey stoneware called
Kamui ware that has been found in hundreds of archaeological sites throughout the Ryukyu Islands and southern
Kyūshū
is the third-largest island of Japan's five main islands and the most southerly of the four largest islands ( i.e. excluding Okinawa). In the past, it has been known as , and . The historical regional name referred to Kyushu and its surround ...
. Several archaeological sites where Kamui ware was produced have been found on the island. These sites are now national historic sites.
Until 1624, Tokunoshima was part of the
Ryukyu Kingdom. The island was invaded by
samurai from
Satsuma Domain
The , briefly known as the , was a domain (''han'') of the Tokugawa shogunate of Japan during the Edo period from 1602 to 1871.
The Satsuma Domain was based at Kagoshima Castle in Satsuma Province, the core of the modern city of Kagoshima, ...
in 1609 and its incorporation into the official holdings of that domain was recognized by the
Tokugawa shogunate in 1624. Satsuma rule was harsh, with the inhabitants of the island reduced to serfdom and forced to raise
sugar cane to meet high taxation, which often resulted in famine. In a famine in 1755, some 3000 islanders perished.
Saigō Takamori was exiled to Tokunoshima in 1862 for less than two months, before he was resentenced to harsher conditions on
Okinoerabujima.
After the
Meiji Restoration it was incorporated into
Ōsumi Province and later became part of
Kagoshima Prefecture
is a prefecture of Japan located on the island of Kyushu and the Ryukyu Islands. Kagoshima Prefecture has a population of 1,599,779 (1 January 2020) and has a geographic area of 9,187 km2 (3,547 sq mi). Kagoshima Prefecture borders Kumamoto P ...
. Following
World War II, with the other Amami Islands, it was occupied by the
United States until 1953, at which time it reverted to the control of Japan.
In 2006,
Prime Minister Yukio Hatoyama offered the use of Tokunoshima to the United States as a relocation site for
Marine Corps Air Station Futenma, leading to widespread protests and opposition from local officials. A protest against this plan in 2010 drew 16,000 people, more than half of the island's population.
Culture
Tokunoshima has a culture that reflects a mix of Japanese and Ryukyuan influences, with much influence from the neighboring Amami islands and from Okinawa to the south. The local cuisine of the island combines standard Japanese fare with Okinawan dishes such as ''
goya chanpurū''. A popular musical instrument on the island is the ''
sanshin'', an Okinawan relative of the Japanese ''
shamisen
The , also known as the or
(all meaning "three strings"), is a three-stringed traditional Japanese musical instrument derived from the Chinese instrument . It is played with a plectrum called a bachi.
The Japanese pronunciation is usual ...
'', and the Okinawan folk dance ''
eisa'' is practiced.
The indigenous language of the island, the
Ryukyuan language called
Tokunoshima, is known on the island as ''sïmagucï'' or, in Japanese, ''shimaguchi'' ("island language"). However, the language has now largely been supplanted by standard Japanese. The Tokunoshima words for "thank you," ''oboradaren'' (Tokunoshima and Amagi towns) and ''oboradanii'' (Isen town) are widely known even among Japanese speakers.
Tokunoshima is known for ''
tōgyū
also known as ''ushi-zumo'' or Bull sumo, is a spectator sport native to the Ryukyu Islands of Japan (Okinawa Prefecture and the Amami Islands of Kagoshima Prefecture). It is also held in other regions of Japan, such as Iwate Prefecture, Niigata ...
'', a Japanese style of bullfighting in which human coaches encourage bulls with locked horns to push each other out of a ring. ''Tōgyū'' is a major event on the island and much of the island's culture revolves around the bullfights. Because of the importance of ''tōgyū'', Tokunoshima's mascot and main icon is a ''tōgyū'' bull.
Economy
The economy of the island revolves around agriculture, primarily the growth of
sugar cane.
Sweet potato
The sweet potato or sweetpotato (''Ipomoea batatas'') is a dicotyledonous plant that belongs to the Convolvulus, bindweed or morning glory family (biology), family, Convolvulaceae. Its large, starchy, sweet-tasting tuberous roots are used as a r ...
es,
rice,
ginger
Ginger (''Zingiber officinale'') is a flowering plant whose rhizome, ginger root or ginger, is widely used as a spice
A spice is a seed, fruit, root, bark, or other plant substance primarily used for flavoring or coloring food. Spices ...
, and tropical fruit such as
mango
A mango is an edible stone fruit produced by the tropical tree ''Mangifera indica''. It is believed to have originated in the region between northwestern Myanmar, Bangladesh, and northeastern India. ''M. indica'' has been cultivated in South a ...
es,
papaya
The papaya (, ), papaw, () or pawpaw () is the plant species ''Carica papaya'', one of the 21 accepted species in the genus ''Carica'' of the family Caricaceae. It was first domesticated in Mesoamerica, within modern-day southern Mexico and ...
, and
banana
A banana is an elongated, edible fruit – botanically a berry – produced by several kinds of large herbaceous flowering plants in the genus ''Musa''. In some countries, bananas used for cooking may be called "plantains", distinguis ...
s are also grown. Sugar cane is processed at several factories into
brown sugar and at several distilleries into brown sugar
shōchū
is a Japanese distilled beverage. It is typically distilled from rice, barley, sweet potatoes, buckwheat, or brown sugar, though it is sometimes produced from other ingredients such as chestnut, sesame seeds, potatoes, or even carrots.
Ty ...
.
Commercial fishing is also important, as is tourism and some light manufacturing.
Transportation
The port of Kametoku, located adjacent to Kametsu in the administrative town of Tokunoshima, has regular ferry service to the towns of
Naze on Amami and
Wadomari on Okinoerabu. From Amami, the ferry continues to Kagoshima. From Okinoerabu, the ferry continues to
Yoron and Okinawa. Ferries exist to
Kobe
Kobe ( , ; officially , ) is the capital city of Hyōgo Prefecture Japan. With a population around 1.5 million, Kobe is Japan's seventh-largest city and the third-largest port city after Tokyo and Yokohama. It is located in Kansai region, whic ...
as well. The smaller port of Hetono, in the town of Amagi, has ferries to Kagoshima and to
Setouchi on Amami. When waves are too strong on the Pacific side of the island, where Kametoku is located, the Kametoku ferries will instead land at Hetono port. Small ports primarily used by fishing or sightseeing boats exist elsewhere along the shoreline.
Tokunoshima Airport, located in Amagi, is connected to Kagoshima, Amami, and Okinoerabu (with the flight continuing to Okinawa) by
Japan Airlines and
Japan Air Commuter.
The main highway on the island is Kagoshima Prefecture Highway 80, which traverses the island from Tokunoshima Airport and Amagi to Kametsu and then follows the southeastern coast of the island to Isen. From Isen, Highway 83 crosses the southeast area of the island to Amagi. Highway 629 follows the northern coast of the island from Tokunoshima Airport to the village of Kedoku. Highway 617 is an inland route between Kametsu and the village of Itokina, while Highway 618 connects Kedoku to the village of Matsubara through the village of Todoroki.
Local attractions
Tokunoshima is a popular tourist destination. Hiking is discouraged because of the habu snake, but the mountain trails are exotic and beautiful. The beaches are also quite stunning, and the island's coastline includes several notable natural landmarks.
On the island's north coast, Mushiroze, a striking area of chiseled stone slabs set against the ocean, is a rare example of granite rock on a predominantly volcanic and coral island. The area is named for the way the flat stone slabs resemble ''mushiro'', a Japanese term for woven straw mats.
Cape Inutabu, the westernmost point of the island, features a stunning ocean view and a memorial, built in April 1968, to the Japanese battleship and her escorts, which were sunk near Tokunoshima during the final stages of World War II.
Another notable seaside attraction is Innojofuta, an area of jagged, eroded coral rock with dramatic ocean vistas. At Innojofuta, a distinctive pair of eroded windows in the rock known as Megane-Iwa (Spectacles Rock) overlooks the ocean.
Much of the island is included within Amami Guntō National Park, established in 2017 (replacing Amami Guntō Quasi-National Park, established in 1974).
References
*Eldridge, Mark. ''The Return of the Amami Islands: The Reversion Movement and U.S.-Japan Relati''ons. Levington Books (2004)
*Hellyer. Robert. Defining Engagement: Japan and Global Contexts, 1640–1868. Harvard University Press (2009)
*Turnbull, Stephen. ''The Most Daring Raid of the Samurai''. Rosen Publishing Group (2011)
*Ravina, Mark. ''The Last Samurai: The Life and Battles of Saigo Takamori''. Whiley (2011)
*Yeo, Andrew. ''Activists, Alliances, and Anti-U.S. Base Protests''. Cambridge University Press. (2011)
External links
Tokunoshima Visitors Guide
{{Authority control
Amami Islands
Islands of Kagoshima Prefecture