Tokoyama

A is a traditional Japanese hairdresser specializing in the theatrical arts (kabuki and ) and professional sumo. The trade is the result of a slow evolution from the traditional Japanese barbers of the Edo period, some of whom gradually started to specialize in hairstyles of actors, puppets, and . The word uses a Japanese character meaning 'floor', because in the Edo period barbers had shops on simple raised floors.

use a variety of traditional techniques and tools, mainly combs, spikes and strings, to style the hair after oiling it. Although maintain the use of techniques inherited from the Edo period, it is becoming increasingly difficult to maintain a traditional practice with the gradual disappearance of the craftsmen producing the oils and tools needed for traditional hairdressing.

maintain close relationships with those whose hair they arrange, often assigned to the particular service of a small group of people. In kabuki, this relationship leads the to choose a specialization that will lead them to follow only actors dedicated to a particular style of acting. In , the hairdressers carry out the decisions of stewards who choose the hairstyles. In sumo, are seen as essential elements of the sport, helping to maintain its traditional appearance.

Traditional theater

Kabuki

In kabuki, the hairstyle, and more specifically the wig, is an important element of the art, as no actor appears on stage without one. The craftsmen who comb the actors' hair are called . They are not responsible for creating the wigs (which is the responsibility of wig makers called the ), but for fitting and finishing them before the actors go on stage. Kabuki are the only ones to be divided into groups called and . These names were inspired by the floors of the Kabuki-za on which the work on their wigs. With each group of comes a specialization, and the 'second floor' specialize in styling the hair of actors playing female roles, while the 'third floor' specialize in styling male characters. Cases where a does not specialize are rare, but they do exist. Kabuki are assigned to specific actors on a full-time basis.

In , puppets are coiffed like real actors. puppet theater is organized into two guilds. One, the , groups together the artists ( players, puppeteers and narrators), while the other, the National Bunraku Theatre, groups together the support professions (costume and doll-head stewards). belong to the latter organization. Unlike in kabuki, the in are responsible for both creating the wig and styling it. In , the receives instructions from the , a theater steward selecting puppet heads from about 400 options, to show subtle differences in what the characters are expressing. Once the wig has been chosen, the is then responsible for styling it to match the puppet. There are about 120 different hairstyles, with about 80 for men and 40 for women.

Sumo

In professional sumo, the are employed by the Japan Sumo Association to cut and prepare wrestlers' hair, which is then styled in a style. Historically, wrestlers went to public barbershops to get their hair done. However, during the Meiji era, traditional barbers gradually disappeared as Western hairstyles became fashionable. To continue styling the hair of wrestlers who had maintained the tradition of wearing the topknot, were borrowed for a time from kabuki theaters to serve wrestlers during tournaments. Eventually, became an integral part of professional sumo and began training specifically to style the wrestlers' hair.

Today, the Sumo Association employs the and ranks them according to experience and ability. There are around 50 employed by the Sumo Association at all times, but new positions can be created if a stable with more than 12 wrestlers and no hairdresser requests so. Apprentices, all men aged 15 to 19, are attached to a sumo stable like other personnel such as (referee) or (handymen). Stables that do not have their own can rely on hairdressers from other stables belonging to the same (clan) to do their wrestlers' hair. Each learns his trade from a senior member of staff. If a 's stable doesn't have a more experienced hairdresser, a hairdresser from the same will take over the apprenticeship. must train for at least seven years before they are considered capable of working on their own. Only the most senior are entitled to prepare the more ornate , the ginkgo leaf shaped topknot which -ranked wrestlers wear in their bouts and on other formal occasions. This usually only happens after ten years' experience.

are divided into a hierarchical system that does not follow the names of sumo divisions, unlike the and . Beginners start at and are promoted according to their years of service and skills until they reach . are not considered qualified craftsmen () until they are promoted to the rank of . Promotion to third class takes around 10 years, while promotion to second and first class takes around 20 and 30 years respectively. When promoted to second class, receive a higher salary and a bonus during tournaments. When they have reached first class and have demonstrated exceptional skill, can ascend to , or 'special class' . Promotion to this rank has very strict prerequisites and the must have served for around 45 years and have demonstrated "excellent talents". There is normally a maximum of two at this rank, although three special class coexisted in 2019 (Tokohachi, Tokomatsu and Tokoyodo). Special class are the only ones allowed to style the topknot of a , a sumo wrestler of the highest rank. are subject to mandatory retirement at the age of 65.

In professional sumo, work under a pseudonym that always starts with the kanji for 'floor' or 'bed' (, pronounced ) in their names. The rest of the 's name is usually derived from a kanji in his personal name, or from a kanji borrowed from the stable to which he belongs. Unlike , names cannot be passed on and are therefore unique.

Special class have also appeared on the since January 2008 and in January 2012, first-class were also added.

Wrestlers' hairstyles are so important in the culture of sumo that the profession is highly valued, with some former wrestlers employing their own hairdressers on their own money, like Taihō. Some wrestlers create close ties with their hairdresser, such as former Hakuhō, whose hair was combed throughout his career by the same , former special class Tokohachi. The importance of also extends to the founding of new stables, as their opening may be called into question if they are unable to obtain a hairdresser.

Styling the haircut

Depending on the environment in which they work, may use strictly traditional tools, while others have more freedom and also use modern tools. Regardless of their professional environment, all the use a special ointment called (also spelled ), renowned for its sturdiness, making it ideal for elaborate hairstyles. In sumo, the only use produced by a company in Edogawa, Tokyo. In , can make the most use of modern tools in hairstyling, such as hairsprays and hair dryers. However, they can not use oil in puppet headgear, as the puppet heads, made of cypress, would lose adhesion when color pigments are applied during restoration.

In both sumo and kabuki, the use two kinds of oil (called and ) produced specifically for the manufacture of wigs. Sumo use a ointment made traditionally from rapeseed, Japan wax and vanilla fragrance. This ointment has a distinctive scent that is associated with professional sumo.

Professional sumo and kabuki use combs and picks of various sizes. The special handmade combs are called . Generally, these tools were made in the Kyoto Prefecture, although it seems that the last company to manufacture them is now based in Nagoya. Each type of comb is made from a different type of wood. An comb is first used on the hair, followed by a to spread out the ointment and shine the hair. A is used to tidy up the hair when everything is done. A is used only to make the style of topknot, where the hair is then spread out using a metal pick called a . In sumo, it is also common for to grow a thumbnail to facilitate styling.

As of the 2020s, however, it is becoming increasingly difficult to obtain the traditional tools and balms used to style the haircuts, as the craftsmen who produce them are all gradually retiring without replacement. This is notably the case of paper strings (called ) used to tie up the hair of sumo wrestlers and kabuki actors' wigs, which were made by just one craftsman in Iida, Nagano until he was forced to close down his business for good in 2020, when all activities requiring his strings (sumo, kabuki, period drama) ceased due to COVID-19. In recent years, however, a few craftsmen have taken over the traditional manufacturing activities and two craftsmen now continue to produce . Ointment for wrestlers' heads is also in short supply, with fewer and fewer companies able to manufacture it due particularly to recruitment difficulties and the lack of a market with sufficient demand, and existing family businesses are unable to continue their activities after the current managers retire.

See also

*Glossary of sumo terms
*Theatre of Japan
*Theatrical technician
*Hairstyle

References

Notes

Bibliography

Traditional theatre

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Sumo

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External links

List of current at the Japan Sumo Association site
(in Japanese)
*{{YouTube, id=JemFsoiwSeM&t - Sumo Prime Time traditional sumo headdress episode

Japanese theatre people
Sumo people
Sumo terminology
Hairdressing
Japanese words and phrases
Stage crew