''Tengkolok'' ( Jawi: ), also known as ''Tanjak'', ''Destar'' ( Minangkabau: ''Deta''; Kelantan-Pattani: Semutar;

Brunei Brunei, officially Brunei Darussalam, is a country in Southeast Asia, situated on the northern coast of the island of Borneo. Apart from its coastline on the South China Sea, it is completely surrounded by the Malaysian state of Sarawak, with ...

: Dastar) is a traditional Malay or

Indonesia Indonesia, officially the Republic of Indonesia, is a country in Southeast Asia and Oceania, between the Indian Ocean, Indian and Pacific Ocean, Pacific oceans. Comprising over List of islands of Indonesia, 17,000 islands, including Sumatra, ...

n (Indonesia) and male headgear. It is made from long

songket ''Songket'' or sungkit is a '' tenun'' fabric that belongs to the brocade family of textiles of Brunei, Indonesia, and Malaysia. It is hand-woven in silk or cotton, and intricately patterned with gold or silver threads. The metallic threads ...

cloth folded and tied in a particular style (''solek''). Nowadays, it is usually worn in ceremonial functions, such as royal ceremonies by royalties, and

wedding A wedding is a ceremony in which two people are united in marriage. Wedding traditions and customs vary greatly between cultures, ethnicity, ethnicities, Race (human categorization), races, religions, Religious denomination, denominations, Cou ...

ceremonies by grooms.

Name

The terms ''tengkolok'', ''Tanjak'', and ''setanjak'' are synonyms; the word "tengkolok" also refers to "headgear or headcover worn by women", but the definition of women's headgear is rarely used today. (Indonesian) However, some people say that ''tengkolok'', ''tanjak'', and ''destar'' are different in terms of cloth type or tying even though the purpose is the same, which the tengkolok is a headgear made from cloth of good quality and its tying has many layers and tapers to tip; ''destar'' has low tying and its tying layers are fewer than ''tengkolok''; ''tanjak'' has tying much like ''tengkolok'', the only difference is that its cloth is simple and thin.

Solek

''Tengkolok'' is made in various forms, with different types and designs of cloth, depending on the social status of its dress. The general term for different forms of ''tengkolok'' is ''solek''. Each ''solek'' also has its different special name, for instance: the ''tengkolok'' worn by ''

Yang di-Pertuan Agong The King of Malaysia, officially ''Yang di-Pertuan Agong'' ( Jawi alphabet, Jawi: ), is the constitutional monarch and Figurehead, ceremonial head of state of Malaysia. The office was established in 1957, when the Federation of Malaya gained ...

'' during the coronation ceremony is known as ''Solek Dendam Tak Sudah'' (Persistent Vengeance Style). Every Malay king has their particular ''solek''. For example, the Sultan of

Selangor Selangor ( ; ), also known by the Arabic language, Arabic honorific Darul Ehsan, or "Abode of Sincerity", is one of the 13 states of Malaysia. It is on the west coast of Peninsular Malaysia and is bordered by Perak to the north, Pahang to the e ...

wears a richly golden yellow ''Solek Balung Raja'' (Royal Crest Style) when attending a coronation ceremony or his birthday ceremony.

Brunei

The traditional attire of the

Brunei Malay The Brunei Malay, also called Bruneian Malay (; Jawi: ), is the most widely spoken language in Brunei Darussalam and a lingua franca in some parts of Sarawak and Sabah, such as Labuan, Limbang, Lawas, Sipitang, and Papar.Clynes, A. (2014). ...

population, locally known as destar, represents the significance of Malay rulers and

nobility Nobility is a social class found in many societies that have an aristocracy. It is normally appointed by and ranked immediately below royalty. Nobility has often been an estate of the realm with many exclusive functions and characteristics. T ...

throughout history. In addition, it served as a representation of the

social structure In the social sciences, social structure is the aggregate of patterned social arrangements in society that are both emergent from and determinant of the actions of individuals. Likewise, society is believed to be grouped into structurally rel ...

of the time, separating

commoners A commoner, also known as the ''common man'', ''commoners'', the ''common people'' or the ''masses'', was in earlier use an ordinary person in a community or nation who did not have any significant social status, especially a member of neither ...

from dignitaries until the head covering became the Malay custom of dressing. Over two

millennia A millennium () is a period of one thousand years, one hundred decades, or ten centuries, sometimes called a kiloannum (ka), or kiloyear (ky). Normally, the word is used specifically for periods of a thousand years that begin at the starting p ...

have passed since the discovery of

's destar types, which include Destar Taruna, Helang Benari, Singa Menerpa, Layar Bahtera, Nakhoda Sailar, and Hulubalang Diraja. The destar's production process, it was previously known that a high-quality dastar requires a week to complete, which has a more adaptable notion, is what makes it distinctive.

Gallery

File:National Museum KL 2008 (119).JPG, "Dendam Tak Sudah" tengkolok wore by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during coronation ceremony File:Tengkolok collection at Muzium Negara .jpg, Collection of Tengkolok worn by Sultan for all Malay states except Johor which Sultan of Johor wore a crown due to influence from the British Empire. Each tengkolok has different styles as there has to contain symbols and meanings. File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM De prinsen van Deli Langkat en Serdang TMnr 10001178.jpg, A Sumatran variant type of tengkolok worn by royal princes from Deli, Langkat and Serdang Kingdom of

North Sumatra North Sumatra () is a Provinces of Indonesia, province of Indonesia located in the northern part of the island of Sumatra. Its capital and largest city is Medan on the east coast of the island. It borders Aceh to the northwest, Riau to the sou ...

File:His Majesty Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu’izzaddin Waddaulah Sultan and Yang Di-Pertuan of Brunei Darussalam, and Her Majesty Duli Raja Isteri Pengiran Anak Hajah Saleha 2017.jpg, link=, Tengkolok being worn by

Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah Hassanal Bolkiah Muiz'zaddin Wad'daulah (born 15 July 1946) is the Sultan of Brunei since 1967, and prime minister of Brunei since its independence from the United Kingdom in 1984. He is one of the few remaining absolute monarchs in the worl ...

File:Local Product Expo 2023 (Brunei) 14.jpg, link=, Different types of Brunei tengolok on display

Note

{{Authority control Headgear Indonesian clothing Malay clothing Culture of Indonesia Islamic male clothing

Name

Solek

Brunei

Gallery

See also

Note