Cuthbert Collingwood "Ted" Tinling (23 June 1910 – 23 May 1990), sometimes known as Teddy Tinling, was an English fashion designer, spy, author, and tennis official. He was a firm fixture on the professional tennis tour for over 60 years and is considered the foremost designer of tennis dresses of the 20th century.
Early life
Tinling was born in Eastbourne, on the south coast of England, the son of James Alexander Tinling, a chartered accountant. In 1923, suffering from
bronchial asthma, his parents sent him to the French Riviera on doctor's orders. It was there he began playing tennis, particularly at the Nice Tennis Club where
Suzanne Lenglen
Suzanne Rachel Flore Lenglen (; 24 May 1899 – 4 July 1938) was a French tennis player. She was the inaugural world No. 1 from 1921 to 1926, winning eight Grand Slam titles in singles and twenty-one in total. She was also a four-time World ...
practised.
Despite Tinling's youth, Lenglen's father asked him if he would umpire one of Lenglen's upcoming matches. He became her personal umpire for two years in between a short career as a player himself. This friendship with Lenglen led him to his first
Wimbledon Championships
The Wimbledon Championships, commonly called Wimbledon, is a tennis tournament organised by the All England Lawn Tennis and Croquet Club in collaboration with the Lawn Tennis Association annually in Wimbledon, London. It is chronologically the ...
in 1927, where he became player liaison until 1949. During the Second World War, he was a
Lieutenant-Colonel in the
Intelligence Corps in Algiers and Germany.
Career as designer

Tinling designed a wedding dress for the British two-time Wimbledon singles champion,
Dorothy Round
Dorothy Edith Round (13 July 1909 – 12 November 1982) was a British tennis player who was active from the late 1920s until 1950. She achieved her major successes in the 1930s. She won the singles title at Wimbledon Championships, Wimbledon in ...
on the occasion of her marriage in 1937.
He also designed dresses for almost all of the great female players throughout the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s. His dresses were worn by the Wimbledon ladies' champion throughout the 1960s and 1970s. The last Wimbledon champion to wear a Tinling creation was
Martina Navratilova
Martina Navratilova (, ; ; born October18, 1956) is a Czech-American former professional tennis player. She was ranked as the world No. 1 in women's List of WTA number 1 ranked singles tennis players, singles for 332 weeks (List of WTA number ...
in 1979 when she wore his designs to triumph in both the singles and doubles events. In 1983,
Billie Jean King
Billie Jean King (née Moffitt; born November 22, 1943), also known as BJK, is an American former World number 1 ranked female tennis players, world No. 1 tennis player. King won 39 Grand Slam (tennis), Grand Slam titles: 12 in singles, 16 in w ...
wore a Tinling dress in a final for the last time, when she reached the Wimbledon Mixed Doubles final. The last Tinling dress worn at Wimbledon was by
Rosemary Casals
Rosemary Casals (born September 16, 1948) is an American former professional tennis player. During a tennis career that spanned more than two decades, she won more than 90 titles and was crucial to many of the changes in women's tennis during t ...
in 1984, when she lost in the first round. Although he only ever designed dresses for
Chris Evert
Christine Marie Evert (born December 21, 1954) is an American former professional tennis player. One of the most successful players of all time, she was ranked as the world No. 1 in women's singles by the Women's Tennis Association (WTA) for 2 ...
's
Federation
A federation (also called a federal state) is an entity characterized by a political union, union of partially federated state, self-governing provinces, states, or other regions under a #Federal governments, federal government (federalism) ...
&
Wightman Cup appearances, he designed her wedding dress when she married
John Lloyd in 1979.
A close friend of Billie Jean King – designing her dress for the famous "
Battle of the Sexes" tennis match in 1973 – he became player liaison on the
Virginia Slims
Virginia Slims is an American brand of cigarettes owned by Altria. It is manufactured by Philip Morris USA (in the United States) and Philip Morris International (outside the United States).
Virginia Slims are narrower ( circumference) than stan ...
Women's Tennis Association
The Women's Tennis Association (WTA) is the principal organizing body of women's professional tennis. The association governs the WTA Tour, which is the worldwide professional tennis tour for women, and was founded to create a better future fo ...
tour that King helped to create. He continued to design daring and unusual dresses for stars such as
Martina Navratilova
Martina Navratilova (, ; ; born October18, 1956) is a Czech-American former professional tennis player. She was ranked as the world No. 1 in women's List of WTA number 1 ranked singles tennis players, singles for 332 weeks (List of WTA number ...
,
Chris Evert
Christine Marie Evert (born December 21, 1954) is an American former professional tennis player. One of the most successful players of all time, she was ranked as the world No. 1 in women's singles by the Women's Tennis Association (WTA) for 2 ...
,
Evonne Goolagong and
Virginia Wade
Sarah Virginia Wade (born 10 July 1945) is a British former professional tennis player. She won three major tennis singles championships and four major doubles championships, and is the only British woman in history to have won titles at all fo ...
throughout this time but his role in the infrastructure of tennis became more important and he became an official media spokesperson for the game.
1949 Wimbledon controversy
It was a design in 1949 that led to him being asked to take leave from his position at Wimbledon. That year he designed not only the dress for
Gussie Moran, but also a pair of white underwear that were adorned with lace, creating a sensation, with photographers fighting for positions where they could get low-angle shots of Moran. This led to Wimbledon chairman
Sir Louis Greig to become furious with Tinling for "having drawn attention to the sexual area". He was banned from the tournament for 33 years, only being invited back on the grounds of the
All England Lawn Tennis Club in 1982, when he retook his position as player liaison.
The incident created a media frenzy, drawing public attention to both Tinling and Moran. While the Wimbledon officials accused Moran of "putting sin and vulgarity into tennis", the media dubbed her "Gorgeous Gussie". According to Tinling himself, "the situation snowballed out of all proportion. Gussie was inundated with requests for personal appearances – hospitals, garden fetes and beauty contests.
The Marx Brothers, in London at the time, invited her to join their act. A racehorse, an aircraft and a restaurant's special sauce were named after her. She was voted the best dressed sports woman by the US Fashion Academy. The whole thing was staggering."
Later life

In 1975, Tinling moved to Philadelphia. He remained a consultant to the women's tour even after he gave up design in his old age. He was inducted into the
International Tennis Hall of Fame
The International Tennis Hall of Fame is located in Newport, Rhode Island, United States. It honors both players and other contributors to the sport of tennis. The complex, the former Newport Casino, includes a museum, 13 grass tennis courts, an ...
in 1986.
He wrote several books on tennis in the 1980s, but respiratory problems continued to affect him and he died in 1990. After his death it was revealed he had been a
British Intelligence spy during the Second World War.
Personal life
Tinling was
openly gay.
His brother,
RAF officer
James Collingwood Tinling, was a member of the team that built the first jet engine.
Portrayals
Tinling has been portrayed in two movies concerning the
Battle of the Sexes tennis match played in 1973 between
Bobby Riggs & Billie Jean King. In the 2001 TV Movie ''
When Billie Beat Bobby'', he was portrayed by American actor
Gerry Becker
Gerry Becker (April 11, 1951 – April 13, 2019)
''lovehardbikeride.org''. Retrieved 20 September 2021. was an ...
and in the 2017 cinema release ''
Battle of the Sexes'', Tinling was played by British star
Alan Cumming
Alan Cumming (born 27 January 1965) is a Scottish actor, writer and presenter. Known for his roles on stage and screen, he has received numerous accolades including a BAFTA Award, two Emmy Awards, two Tony Awards, and an Olivier Award. He re ...
.
Cumming played the role with a full head of hair, whereas Becker had played the part bald; accurately reflecting Tinling's appearance.
Works
*
*Tinling, Ted (1983), ''Tinling: Sixty Years in Tennis''.
*
References
External links
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Tinling, Ted
1910 births
1990 deaths
English fashion designers
LGBTQ fashion designers
English gay sportsmen
English gay writers
English gay artists
English LGBTQ businesspeople
People from Eastbourne
International Tennis Hall of Fame inductees
LGBTQ tennis players
Gay businessmen
World War II spies for the United Kingdom
Intelligence Corps officers
English male tennis players
British male tennis players
20th-century English businesspeople
20th-century English LGBTQ people
Tennis writers
20th-century English sportsmen