was a Japanese
mountaineer
Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...
. He is known for having made the first ascent of
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
's
north face North face or Northface or The North Face may refer to:
* North face (Eiger), in the Bernese Alps in Switzerland
* North Face (Everest), in Himalaya, usually traversed ascending Everest from the north
* North face (Fairview Dome), a climbing route i ...
and the first ascent of Myanmar's
Hkakabo Razi
Hkakabo Razi (, ; ) is believed to be Myanmar's highest mountain. The -tall mountain is the highest mountain in Southeast Asia as well. It is located in the northern Myanmar state of Kachin State, Kachin in an outlying subrange of the Greater Him ...
.
Biography
Ozaki was born in
Kameyama in Japan's
Mie Prefecture
is a Prefectures of Japan, prefecture of Japan located in the Kansai region of Honshu. Mie Prefecture has a population of 1,781,948 () and has a geographic area of . Mie Prefecture is bordered by Gifu Prefecture to the north, Shiga Prefecture an ...
.
On May 10, 1980, Ozaki, with Tsuneo Shigehiro, made the first full ascent of the north face of
Mount Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at it ...
.
Later, in 1983, he made a December ascent of Everest.
In 1996, Ozaki made the first ascent of Myanmar's remote
Hkakabo Razi
Hkakabo Razi (, ; ) is believed to be Myanmar's highest mountain. The -tall mountain is the highest mountain in Southeast Asia as well. It is located in the northern Myanmar state of Kachin State, Kachin in an outlying subrange of the Greater Him ...
with Myanmar climber Niyma Gyaltsen.
Ozaki died while descending Everest's south side at around 8,600 meters.
He had to abort his ascent when he developed medical problems, then died during his attempt to summit Mount Everest on May 12, 2011.
[
]
Personal life
Takashi Ozaki was married to Frederique Gely-Ozaki, who also climbed mountains with him.[ He had two children, daughter Sara and son Makato Ozaki.][
]
Notable ascents
Summits:[
*]Everest
Mount Everest (), known locally as Sagarmatha in Nepal and Qomolangma in Tibet, is Earth's highest mountain above sea level. It lies in the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas and marks part of the China–Nepal border at its ...
(twice: 1980 and 1983)
*Broad Peak
Broad Peak (; ) is one of the eight-thousanders, and is located in the Karakoram range spanning Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan and Xinjiang, China. It is the 12th highest mountain in the world with elevation above sea level. The first ascent of t ...
*Manaslu
Manaslu (; , also known as Kutang) is the List of highest mountains#List, eighth-highest mountain in the world at above sea level. It is in the Mansiri Himal, part of the Nepalese Himalayas, in west-central Nepal. Manaslu means "mountain of the ...
*Lhotse
Lhotse ( ; ; ) is the List of highest mountains#List, fourth-highest mountain on Earth, after Mount Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga. At an elevation of above sea level, the main summit is on the border between Tibet Autonomous Region of Chin ...
*Kangchenjunga
Kangchenjunga is the third-highest mountain in the world. Its summit lies at in a section of the Himalayas, the ''Kangchenjunga Himal'', which is bounded in the west by the Tamur River, in the north by the Lhonak River and Jongsang La, and ...
*Makalu
Makalu (; ) is the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, with a summit at an elevation of AMSL. It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas southeast of Mount Everest, on the China–Nepal border. One of the eight-thousanders, Makalu is an isolat ...
*Dhaulagiri
Dhaulagiri, located in Nepal, is the seventh highest mountain in the world at above sea level, and the highest mountain within the borders of a single country. It was first climbed on 13 May 1960 by a Swiss-Austrian-Nepali expedition.
Annapur ...
* Island Peak
*Hkakabo Razi
Hkakabo Razi (, ; ) is believed to be Myanmar's highest mountain. The -tall mountain is the highest mountain in Southeast Asia as well. It is located in the northern Myanmar state of Kachin State, Kachin in an outlying subrange of the Greater Him ...
[
]
See also
*List of people who died climbing Mount Everest
Over 340 people have died attempting to reach—or return from—the summit of Mount Everest which, at , is Earth's highest mountain and a particularly desirable peak for mountaineers. This makes it the mountain with the most deaths, although i ...
*
*List of 20th-century summiters of Mount Everest
Mount Everest is the world's list of highest mountains, highest mountain at and thus a particularly desirable peak for mountaineers. This is a list of people who reached the summit of Mount Everest in the 20th century. Overall about 1,383 peop ...
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Ozaki, Takashi
1952 births
2011 deaths
Japanese summiters of Mount Everest
Japanese mountain climbers
Mountaineering deaths on Mount Everest