Ston () is a settlement and a municipality in the
Dubrovnik-Neretva County of
Croatia
Croatia, officially the Republic of Croatia, is a country in Central Europe, Central and Southeast Europe, on the coast of the Adriatic Sea. It borders Slovenia to the northwest, Hungary to the northeast, Serbia to the east, Bosnia and Herze ...
, located at the south of isthmus of the
Pelješac peninsula.
History
Because of its geopolitical and strategic position, Ston has had a rich history since
ancient times. Located at the gates of the peninsula, surrounded by three seas, protected by four hills, rich in fresh water and saltwater, fertile plains, it has been an important political, cultural and ecclesiastical centre.
Initially it was an
Illyrian settlement until the
Romans established their own
colony
A colony is a territory subject to a form of foreign rule, which rules the territory and its indigenous peoples separated from the foreign rulers, the colonizer, and their ''metropole'' (or "mother country"). This separated rule was often orga ...
there, in 167 BC.
In 533, at
Salona, a
diocese of Sarsenterum was established for the
Zachlumia (Hum) area, which belonged to the church in Ston (Pardui). Later Sarsenterum was destroyed, most likely at the time of the
Avars' campaign. Since Ston was not reached by the Avars, it was spared and became the seat of the local ''
župa
A župa, or zhupa, is a historical type of administrative division in Southeast Europe and Central Europe, that originated in medieval South Slavs, South Slavic culture, commonly translated as "county" or "parish". It was mentioned for the first t ...
''.
Upon the arrival of the
South Slavs
South Slavs are Slavic people who speak South Slavic languages and inhabit a contiguous region of Southeast Europe comprising the eastern Alps and the Balkan Peninsula. Geographically separated from the West Slavs and East Slavs by Austria, ...
in the 7th century, the area of the
Neretva
The Neretva (, sr-Cyrl, Неретва), also known as Narenta, is one of the largest rivers of the eastern part of the Adriatic basin. Four Hydroelectricity, hydroelectric power plants with Dam, large dams (higher than 15 metres) provide flood ...
(from the northern
Herzegovina
Herzegovina ( or ; sh-Latn-Cyrl, Hercegovina, separator=" / ", Херцеговина, ) is the southern and smaller of two main geographical Regions of Bosnia and Herzegovina, regions of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the other being Bosnia (reg ...
mountains to
Rijeka Dubrovačka) was organized as the principality of Zachlumia - same as
Neretva
The Neretva (, sr-Cyrl, Неретва), also known as Narenta, is one of the largest rivers of the eastern part of the Adriatic basin. Four Hydroelectricity, hydroelectric power plants with Dam, large dams (higher than 15 metres) provide flood ...
,
Primorje and Zahulje, which also belonged to Ston with Rat (Pelješac) and
Mljet. Local rulers acknowledged the supremacy of the
Byzantine Empire
The Byzantine Empire, also known as the Eastern Roman Empire, was the continuation of the Roman Empire centred on Constantinople during late antiquity and the Middle Ages. Having survived History of the Roman Empire, the events that caused the ...
.
As the secular and ecclesial powers grew, it is assumed that after the disappearance of Sarsenterum, Ston became a local ecclesiastical center. The
diocese of Ston is first mentioned in 877, as an institution from an earlier time, and the bishop is listed as a suffragan of the
metropolis of Split.
After
Mihailo Višević, who ruled Zachlumia in the 10th century and acknowledged the authority of the Bulgarian Emperor
Simeon
Simeon () is a given name, from the Hebrew (Biblical Hebrew, Biblical ''Šimʿon'', Tiberian vocalization, Tiberian ''Šimʿôn''), usually transliterated in English as Shimon. In Greek, it is written Συμεών, hence the Latinized spelling Sy ...
, the territory was ruled over by different dynasties. Around 950, it was briefly ruled by the Serbian Prince
Časlav. At the end of the 10th century, Samuilo was the Lord of Zachlumia, and the
dukedom belonged to the Doclean King
Jovan Vladimir
Jovan Vladimir or John Vladimir ( sr-cyr, Јован Владимир; – 22 May 1016) was the ruler of Duklja, the most powerful Serbs, Serbian principality of the time, from around 1000 to 1016. He ruled during the protracted war betwee ...
.
With the establishment of the
Archdiocese of Ragusa (
Dubrovnik
Dubrovnik, historically known as Ragusa, is a city in southern Dalmatia, Croatia, by the Adriatic Sea. It is one of the most prominent tourist destinations in the Mediterranean Sea, Mediterranean, a Port, seaport and the centre of the Dubrovni ...
) in 1120, Ston became a suffragan of the latter.
In 1168, the dukedom and Zachlumia were conquered by
Stefan Nemanja. Thirty years later, Zachlumia was invaded by Andrija, the Duke of Croatia and Dalmatia.
The old Ston was located on the slopes of the hills of Gorica and St. Michael, south of the Ston field. There were several early Christian churches, the largest of which was St. Stephen's Church. The bishopric church of Mary Magdalene stood until it was bombed by the
Allies in 1944. The only church that still remains is the church of St. Michael, built in the middle of the late antique castrum.
The original old town was demolished in the earthquake of 1252. With the arrival of the Republic, a new city was built on today's location. When renovations were made at the church of St. Michael at the top of the hill, fragments of Roman decorative plaster, Roman tombstones and antique ceramics were found, confirming this assumption. According to some sources, Ston experienced a destructive civil war in 1250, and in these conflicts the city suffered a great deal of destruction.
In 1254,
Béla IV of Hungary
Béla IV (1206 – 3 May 1270) was King of Hungary and King of Croatia, Croatia between 1235 and 1270, and Duke of Styria from 1254 to 1258. As the oldest son of Andrew II of Hungary, King Andrew II, he was crowned upon the initiative of a group ...
conquered
Bosnia and Zachlumia. The turbulent times at the beginning of the 14th century spread across the entire country of Zahumlje. From 1304, Zachlumia was ruled by
Mladen II Šubić, then again for a short period by a Serbian
župan
Župan is a noble and administrative title used in several states in Central Europe, Central and Southeast Europe, Southeastern Europe between the 7th century and the 21st century. It was (and in Croatia still is) the leader of the administrat ...
, and then became part of the
medieval Bosnian state, acquired by
Stjepan Kotromanić in 1325.
The usurpation by the
Branivojević brothers, forced the people of Dubrovnik to fight them in 1326 with the help of
Stjepan II Kotromanić. That year, Dubrovnik occupied Ston. The Dubrovnik people immediately began to build and establish a new Ston, to defend the Pelješac and protect the slaves from which they had earned big revenue. Since the conflict between the Bosnian Ban and the king of Zahumlje, Dubrovnik purchased Pelješac with Ston from both rulers in 1333, in return for paying the so-called
tribute of Ston.
The first cathedral was that of St. Mary Magdalene in Gorica. The church of Our Lady of Lužina was built in the 10th century. The cathedral of St. Blaise was built in 1342 by decision of the Senate after Ston joined the
Republic of Ragusa
The Republic of Ragusa, or the Republic of Dubrovnik, was an maritime republics, aristocratic maritime republic centered on the city of Dubrovnik (''Ragusa'' in Italian and Latin; ''Raguxa'' in Venetian) in South Dalmatia (today in southernmost ...
, on the site of the present damaged parish church. From then on, Ston was an integral part of the Republic until its fall, and was its second most important city.
In 1333, Dubrovnik began the planned construction of the fortresses of Ston () and Little Ston () on the present site. The cladding between the two towns along their entire length consisted of
large walls which were supposed to defend Pelješac. This whole complex of fortifications, unique in Europe, was built in a short period of time.
The first Franciscan monastery in Ston was built in 1349; a female monastery was added in 1400. A Dominican convent was built in the nearby
Broce in 1628.
The downfall of the Republic of Dubrovnik took place due to the sudden and often incomprehensible operations in the 19th century. The city walls of Little Ston were demolished to suppress
malaria
Malaria is a Mosquito-borne disease, mosquito-borne infectious disease that affects vertebrates and ''Anopheles'' mosquitoes. Human malaria causes Signs and symptoms, symptoms that typically include fever, Fatigue (medical), fatigue, vomitin ...
. The monumental stone fortification complex of Ston suddenly collapsed in preparation for the official visit by the Austrian Emperor,
Franz Joseph - the stones became a quarry for nearby new outcrops and foundations. The restoration of the stone monuments and the reconstruction of the fortifications and the tower resumed only after 1945, however they were again damaged in the
Croatian War of Independence
The Croatian War of Independence) and (rarely) "War in Krajina" ( sr-Cyrl-Latn, Рат у Крајини, Rat u Krajini) are used. was an armed conflict fought in Croatia from 1991 to 1995 between Croats, Croat forces loyal to the Governmen ...
(1991-1995), followed by
the devastating earthquake of 1996. Recently, thanks to the Society of Friends of the Dubrovnik Walls, the stone forts and towers are being reconstructed, so that the monumental stonewall complex now begins to live again in its old dignity.
Climate
Since records began in 1981, the highest temperature recorded at the local weather station was , on 4 August 1981. The coldest temperature was , on 19 January 2021.
Demographics
According to the 2021 census, its population was 2,491, with 500 living in the town proper.
In the 2011 census, the total population of the municipality of Ston was 2,407, in the following settlements:
*
Boljenovići, population 87
*
Brijesta, population 58
*
Broce, population 87
*
Česvinica, population 55
*
Dančanje, population 27
*
Duba Stonska, population 36
*
Dubrava, population 133
*
Hodilje, population 190
*
Luka, population 153
*
Mali Ston, population 139
*
Metohija, population 157
*
Putniković, population 82
*
Sparagovići, population 114
* Ston, population 549
*
Tomislavovac, population 104
*
Zabrđe, population 61
*
Zamaslina, population 79
*
Zaton Doli, population 61
*
Žuljana, population 235
The small villages of Metohija, Sparagovići and Boljenovići form a larger village that is called Ponikve.
Cultural monuments
Walls of Ston
After the Republic of Dubrovnik acquired the Pelješac in 1334, it required the protection of Ston. First, in thirty years, one of the longest defense walls in Europe was erected on one side of the peninsula, and according to a unique project, two new towns were planned: southern Ston and northern Little Ston with the aim of encompassing people to preserve the boundaries and work in solanas the state had acquired. Between 1461 and 1464, the Florentine architect Michelozzo commissioned the building of the wall by the order of the Dubrovnik Republic. The Great Wall is 1200 m long, and was built to ensure protection from neighbours. The chronicles state that the construction of the wall lasted for 18 months and cost 12,000 ducats.
The fortress of Ston was one of the largest construction projects of the time, with an original length of 7000 m, consisting of the walls of Ston and Little Ston. The Great Wall consists of three fortresses, and the walls and fortresses are flanked by 10 rounds of 31 squares and 6 semi-circular bastions. The complex defense corps has been shaped over the course of four centuries, due to the development of weapons.
The walls were of great importance because they were defending the saltworks that gave 15,900 ducats every year to the Dubrovnik Republic, the shellfish farm and the city itself.
In 1667, about 0.5 km of walls were destroyed in a catastrophic earthquake, and the walls were significantly damaged in the earthquakes in 1979 and 1996.
In 2004, work on the restoration of obsolete walls was started, with the aim of facilitating visits to the area between Ston and Little Ston. It was assumed that the works would be completed by May 2008, but only the original part of the Ston Bridge was rebuilt. The reconstruction of the Great Wall in Ston, worth about five million kuna (€673,000), was completed, and it was announced that the stone walls with public entrance fee will be opened in May 2009. Part of the wall is open to the public since October 2009 for a fee. Until 2013, the original part of the city, the road have been restored. It takes 15 minutes to get to the first part, and 30 minutes to get from the Great to the Small Wall. Today the greater part of the walls have been restored.
See also
*
Orebić
Gallery
File:Ston Street.jpg, Street in Ston
File:Ston, Croatia.jpg, Fountain in the centre
File:Ston in Croatia.jpg, Ston Municipal Building
File:Entrance to Ston City Walls.jpg, Entrance to Ston City Walls
File:St. Blaise Church, Ston 01.jpg, Church of St. Blaise
File:Pogled s Velikog Kaštia.jpg, View from the Fort of Kaštio
References
Sources
*Ćosić, Stjepan. �
The Nobility of the Episcopal Town of Ston (Nobilitas civitatis episcopalis Stagnensis)''
Dubrovnik Annals'', Vol. No. 5, 2001.
*Gudelj, Krešimira. “Coastal toponymy of the Ston region,” Folia onomastica Croatica, Vol. No. 20, 2011Melita Peharda, Mirjana Hrs-Brenko, Danijela Bogner, “Diversity of bivalve species in Mali Ston Bay, Adriatic Sea," ''Acta Adriatica'', Vol. 45 No. 2, 2004.
*Lupis, Vinicije B. , “Mediaeval crucifixes from Ston and its surrounding area,” ''Starohrvatska prosvjeta'', Vol. III No. 38, 2011.
*Miović, Vesna.
Emin (Customs Officer) as Representative of the Ottoman Empire in the Republic of Dubrovnik" ''
Dubrovnik Annals'' 7 (2003): pp. 81–88.
*Tomšić, Sanja, and Josip Lovrić. “Historical overview of oyster culture in Mali Ston Bay,” ''Naše more, Znanstveno-stručni časopis za more i pomorstvo'', Vol. 51 No. 1-2, 2004.
*Andrej Žmegač. “The Ston Fortification Complex - Several Issues,” ''Prilozi povijesti umjetnosti u Dalmaciji'', Vol. 39 No. 1, 2005
*
External links
Ston - Geographical info
{{authority control
Populated places in Dubrovnik-Neretva County
Municipalities of Croatia
Populated coastal places in Croatia