Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional
rock climber, who specializes in
competition climbing
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock climbing, rock-climbing competition held indoor climbing, indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition ...
,
sport climbing
Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the Lead climbing, lead climber clips their climbing rope, rope — via a quickdraw — into pre-drilled in-situ bolt (climbing), bolts for their ...
, and
bouldering
Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...
. In competition climbing, he completes in
competition lead climbing
Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing competition held indoors on purpose-built artificial climbing walls (earlier versions were held on external natural rock surfaces). The three competition climbing disciplines are lead ...
,
competition bouldering, and
competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has
redpointed sport climbing routes of grade ,
ed routes of ,
and solved boulder problems at grade .
In December 2018, after climbing ''Perfecto Mundo'', he became the
fourth climber in history to redpoint a route.
Climbing career
Competition climbing
In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.
Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships.
In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldering, and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking.
On October 13, 2012, he first got on the podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in
Xining
Xining is the Capital (political), capital and most populous city of Qinghai province in western China and the largest city on the Tibetan Plateau. As of the 2020 census, it had 2,467,965 inhabitants (2,208,708 as of 2010), of whom 1,954,795 l ...
,
China
China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. With population of China, a population exceeding 1.4 billion, it is the list of countries by population (United Nations), second-most populous country after ...
. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014,
Xiamen
Xiamen,), also known as Amoy ( ; from the Zhangzhou Hokkien pronunciation, zh, c=, s=, t=, p=, poj=Ē͘-mûi, historically romanized as Amoy, is a sub-provincial city in southeastern Fujian, People's Republic of China, beside the Taiwan Stra ...
(China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.
Rock climbing
On November 2, 2015, he made the
first free ascent
In mountaineering and climbing, a first ascent (abbreviated to FA in guide books), is the first successful documented climb to the top of a mountain or the top of a particular climbing route. Early 20th-century mountaineers and climbers focused ...
(FFA) of ''Lapsus'', in Andonno (
Italy
Italy, officially the Italian Republic, is a country in Southern Europe, Southern and Western Europe, Western Europe. It consists of Italian Peninsula, a peninsula that extends into the Mediterranean Sea, with the Alps on its northern land b ...
), a 70-hold
sport climbing
Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the Lead climbing, lead climber clips their climbing rope, rope — via a quickdraw — into pre-drilled in-situ bolt (climbing), bolts for their ...
route for which he proposed a grade of .
On December 7, 2018, after climbing the sport route ''Perfecto Mundo'' (
Margalef
Margalef () is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers. The rock type is conglomerate and it has more than 1500 climbing routes of differe ...
,
ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that
grade, after
Adam Ondra,
Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
, and
Alex Megos.
On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of ' , in
Flatanger Municipality
Flatanger is a List of municipalities of Norway, municipality in Trøndelag Counties of Norway, county, Norway. It is part of the Namdalen Districts of Norway, region. The administrative centre of the municipality is Lauvsnes. Other villages incl ...
, Norway; the
first-ever 9b+ route in history, established by Adam Ondra in 2012.
On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of ''
Bibliographie'' , in
Céüse
Céüse () is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département in France, département'' of France near Gap, Hautes-Alpes, Gap and Sigoyer, Hautes-Alpes, Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is include ...
, France. Originally graded with a proposed 9c (5.15d) rating, the route was first established by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi then downgraded it to 9b+.
On February 2, 2023, made the FA of ''Excalibur'', in Arco, in Italy, for which he proposed a grade of .
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
Climbing World Championships
Youth
Adult
Climbing European Championships
Youth
Adult
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup
Lead
Speed
Rock climbing
Redpointed routes
:
:*''Perfecto Mundo'' -
Margalef
Margalef () is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers. The rock type is conglomerate and it has more than 1500 climbing routes of differe ...
(
ESP) - December 7, 2018
- First repeat, first ascent was by
Alex Megos, 2018
:* ' -
Flatanger (
NOR) - September 29, 2020 - First repeat, first ascent was by
Adam Ondra, 2012
:*''
Bibliographie'' -
Céüse
Céüse () is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département in France, département'' of France near Gap, Hautes-Alpes, Gap and Sigoyer, Hautes-Alpes, Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is include ...
(
FRA) - August 24, 2021
- First repeat, first ascent was by
Alex Megos, 2020. Originally 9c, Ghisolfi proposed 9b+ instead.
:*''Excalibur'' - Arco (
ITA) - February 5, 2023 - First ascent.
:
:* ''Move Hard'' -
Flatanger (
NOR) - September 16, 2022 - First ascent by
Adam Ondra, 2017
:* ''L'Arenauta'' - Sperlonga (ITA) - February 10, 2022 - First ascent.
:* ''The Lonely Mountain'' -
Arco
Arco may refer to:
Places
* Arco, Trentino, a town in Trentino, Italy
* Arco, Idaho, in the United States
* Arco, Minnesota, a city in the United States
* ARCO Arena in Sacramento, California, home of the Sacramento Kings
Companies
* ARCO (b ...
(
ITA) - December 17, 2021 - First Ascent.
:* ''Erebor'' -
Arco
Arco may refer to:
Places
* Arco, Trentino, a town in Trentino, Italy
* Arco, Idaho, in the United States
* Arco, Minnesota, a city in the United States
* ARCO Arena in Sacramento, California, home of the Sacramento Kings
Companies
* ARCO (b ...
(
ITA) - January 11, 2021
- First Ascent. Originally graded 9b/+, downgraded by Adam Ondra.
:*''La Capella'' -
Siurana (
ESP) - January 12, 2018 - First ascent by
Adam Ondra, 2011
:* ''One Slap'' -
Arco
Arco may refer to:
Places
* Arco, Trentino, a town in Trentino, Italy
* Arco, Idaho, in the United States
* Arco, Minnesota, a city in the United States
* ARCO Arena in Sacramento, California, home of the Sacramento Kings
Companies
* ARCO (b ...
(
ITA) - November 22, 2017 - First ascent by
Adam Ondra, 2017
:* ''First Round, First Minute'' -
Margalef
Margalef () is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers. The rock type is conglomerate and it has more than 1500 climbing routes of differe ...
(
ESP) - January 30, 2017
:* ''Lapsus'' - Andonno (
ITA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
:
:* ''
La Rambla'' -
Siurana (
ESP) - March 20, 2017
:* ''First Ley'' -
Margalef
Margalef () is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers. The rock type is conglomerate and it has more than 1500 climbing routes of differe ...
(
ESP) - January 2017
:* ''Ultimatum'' - Massone (
Arco
Arco may refer to:
Places
* Arco, Trentino, a town in Trentino, Italy
* Arco, Idaho, in the United States
* Arco, Minnesota, a city in the United States
* ARCO Arena in Sacramento, California, home of the Sacramento Kings
Companies
* ARCO (b ...
, (
ITA)) - December 19, 2016
:* ''Jungle Boogie'' -
Céüse
Céüse () is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département in France, département'' of France near Gap, Hautes-Alpes, Gap and Sigoyer, Hautes-Alpes, Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is include ...
(
FRA) - October 2, 2016
:* ''
Realization'' -
Céüse
Céüse () is a limestone mountain in the Hautes-Alpes ''département in France, département'' of France near Gap, Hautes-Alpes, Gap and Sigoyer, Hautes-Alpes, Sigoyer. The "Pic de Céüse" is at an elevation of , and the whole massif is include ...
(
FRA) - June 21, 2015 - First ascent by
Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
, 2001
:* ''Demencia senil'' -
Margalef
Margalef () is a village in Catalonia, Spain. It is situated on the edge of Montsant and is a popular ecotourism destination, especially among rock climbers. The rock type is conglomerate and it has more than 1500 climbing routes of differe ...
(
ESP) - March 14, 2015 - First ascent by
Chris Sharma
Chris Omprakash Sharma (born 23 April 1981) is an American rock climber who is considered one of the greatest and most influential climbers in the history of the sport. He dominated sport climbing for the decade after his 2001 ascent of '' Real ...
, 2009
:* ''La moustache qui fàche'' -
Entraygues (
FRA) - August 23, 2014
:
:* ''Thunder Ribes'' - Massone (
Arco
Arco may refer to:
Places
* Arco, Trentino, a town in Trentino, Italy
* Arco, Idaho, in the United States
* Arco, Minnesota, a city in the United States
* ARCO Arena in Sacramento, California, home of the Sacramento Kings
Companies
* ARCO (b ...
, (
ITA)) - December 16, 2016 - Combination of the routes ''Reini's Vibes'', ''Ultima Pietra'', and ''Stonehenge. ''
:* ''L'Attimo'' - Covolo (ITA) - October 11, 2015 - First ascent by Silvio Reffo, 2012
:* ''Underground'' - Massone (
Arco
Arco may refer to:
Places
* Arco, Trentino, a town in Trentino, Italy
* Arco, Idaho, in the United States
* Arco, Minnesota, a city in the United States
* ARCO Arena in Sacramento, California, home of the Sacramento Kings
Companies
* ARCO (b ...
, (
ITA)) - July 5, 2014 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998
:* ''Biologico'' - Narango (
Arco
Arco may refer to:
Places
* Arco, Trentino, a town in Trentino, Italy
* Arco, Idaho, in the United States
* Arco, Minnesota, a city in the United States
* ARCO Arena in Sacramento, California, home of the Sacramento Kings
Companies
* ARCO (b ...
, (
ITA)) - June 8, 2014 - First ascent by
Adam Ondra, 2012
:* ''TCT'' - Gravere (
ITA) - May 31, 2014 - First ascent
:* ''Grandi Gesti'' - Grotta dell'Arenauta (
Sperlonga
Sperlonga (locally ) is a coastal town in the province of Latina, Italy, about halfway between Rome and Naples. It is best known for the ancient Roman sea grotto discovered in the grounds of the Villa of Tiberius containing the important and spect ...
,
ITA) - December 30, 2013 - First ascent by Gianluca Daniele, 2009
:* ''Ground Zero'' - Tetto di
Sarre (
ITA) - June 9, 2013 - First ascent by Alberto Gnerro, 2002
Onsighted routes
:
:* ''Fish Eye'' -
Oliana
Oliana () is a municipality in the ''comarca'' of the Alt Urgell in
Catalonia, Spain. It is situated in the Segre valley immediately below the Oliana reservoir.
There is a factory of domestic electrical appliances in the town, and the presence ...
(
ESP) - January 8, 2017
:
:* ''Falconeti'' - Montsant (
ESP) - January 2013
:* ''L-mens'' - Montsant (
ESP) - January 2013
[
]
Boulder problems
Ghisolfi climbed five and two boulder problems.
See also
*List of grade milestones in rock climbing
In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint (climbing), redpoint, onsight or flash (climbing), flash of a pitch (ascent/descent), single-pitch, multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch or bouldering, bouldering climbing route that ...
*History of rock climbing
In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines – bouldering, Pitch (climbing), single-pitch climbing, and big wall climbing, big wall (and multi-pitch climbing, multi-pitch) climbing – can trace their origins to late 19th-ce ...
* Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
External links
*
{{DEFAULTSORT:Ghisolfi, Stefano
Italian rock climbers
Living people
1993 births
Climbers of Fiamme Oro
Competitors at the 2013 World Games
IFSC Climbing World Cup overall medalists
Italian competition climbers