St Bees Priory is the
parish church
A parish church (or parochial church) in Christianity is the Church (building), church which acts as the religious centre of a parish. In many parts of the world, especially in rural areas, the parish church may play a significant role in com ...
of
St Bees
St Bees is a coastal village, civil parish and electoral ward in the Cumberland district of Cumbria, England, on the Irish Sea.
Within the parish is St Bees Head which is the only Heritage Coast between Wales and Scotland and a Site of Spec ...
,
Cumbria
Cumbria ( ) is a ceremonial county in North West England. It borders the Scottish council areas of Dumfries and Galloway and Scottish Borders to the north, Northumberland and County Durham to the east, North Yorkshire to the south-east, Lancash ...
, in
England
England is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. It is located on the island of Great Britain, of which it covers about 62%, and List of islands of England, more than 100 smaller adjacent islands. It ...
. There is evidence of a pre-
Norman religious site, on which a Benedictine
priory
A priory is a monastery of men or women under religious vows that is headed by a prior or prioress. They were created by the Catholic Church. Priories may be monastic houses of monks or nuns (such as the Benedictines, the Cistercians, or t ...
was founded by the first Norman Lord of Egremont
William Meschin. It was dedicated by
Archbishop Thurstan of York,
[Wilson, Rev J, The Registers of St Bees Priory, The Surtees Society 1915.] sometime between 1120 and 1135.
Sculptural and charter evidence suggests the site was a principal centre of religious influence in the west of the county, and an extensive parish developed, with detached portions covering much of the Western Lakes.
[See John M. Tod]
The pre-Conquest Church in St Bees, Cumbria
/ref>
The priory was dissolved in 1539. Since then, the buildings have served as the Anglican church of St Bees parish, and are now Grade I listed buildings
In the United Kingdom, a listed building is a structure of particular architectural or historic interest deserving of special protection. Such buildings are placed on one of the four statutory lists maintained by Historic England in England, H ...
.
Pre-Norman church
There is sculptural and place-name evidence for the existence of a pre-Norman religious site, although no buildings still remain from that time. The St Bees place-name is derived from 'Kirkeby Becok' (the 'Church town of Bega'), which was used in the 12th Century. St Bega, a mysterious figure from pre-Norman Britain, is said to have been an Irish princess who fled across the sea to St Bees to avoid an enforced marriage.[John M Todd. ''St Bega - Cult, Fact and Legend'', Transactions of Cumberland and Westmorland Antiquarian and Archaeological Society Volume LXXX
1980] According to the legend, she then lived a life of piety at St Bees. The most likely period for her journey would have been sometime in the thirty years after 850, when the Vikings were settling Ireland.
The continuance of the cult of St Bega following the arrival of the Normans is recorded in the Register of the Priory by the swearing of oaths on the "Bracelet of St Bega". This relic was touched as the means of taking a binding oath; oaths are recorded up to 1279, and offerings to the bracelet were made as late as 1516.
A cross shaft dating from the 10th century is in the graveyard, showing Viking influence. There is also a cross shaft of the Cumbrian spiral-scroll school from the same period, now in the church. Both show evidence of this being a pre-Norman religious site.
Pre-Norman parish boundaries suggest that St Bees had considerable influence in the west, and it has been suggested that St Bees was a "minster church" serving the west coast, but there is no firm evidence.[John M Todd, ''The pre-Conquest Church in St Bees, Cumbria: a possible minster?'', Transactions of the Cumberland and Westmorland Antiquarian and archaeological Society, Vol III, 2003.
]
The priory
Founding
The Normans did not reach this part of Cumbria until 1092. William Meschin, supported by Archbishop Thurstan, used the existing religious site to found a Benedictine priory between 1120 and 1135. The priory was subordinate to the Benedictine monastery of St Mary's Abbey, York, and had a prior
The term prior may refer to:
* Prior (ecclesiastical), the head of a priory (monastery)
* Prior convictions, the life history and previous convictions of a suspect or defendant in a criminal case
* Prior probability, in Bayesian statistics
* Prio ...
and six monks. To endow the priory, there were many original grants of property and churches from local lords including the parish of Kirkeby Becok itself, which stretched from the coast at present-day Whitehaven to the River Keekle, and down to where the river "Egre" (Ehen) falls into the sea. Also granted were the chapel of Egremont, churches at Whicham and Bootle, land in Rottington, and the manor of Stainburn at Workington. St Bees was therefore the principal religious centre in the west of Cumbria, and the large number of existing medieval grave slabs of the local nobility indicates its importance.
Growth and decline
Later grants endowed the priory with the churches of Workington
Workington is a coastal town and civil parish in the Cumberland district of Cumbria, England. The town is at the mouth of the River Derwent on the west coast, south-west of Carlisle and north-east of Whitehaven. At the 2021 census the ...
, Gosforth
Gosforth is an area of Newcastle upon Tyne, England, situated north of the Newcastle City Centre, City Centre. It constituted a separate Urban district (Great Britain and Ireland), urban district of Northumberland from 1895 until 1974 before of ...
, Corney and Whitbeck, and the chapels of Harrington, Clifton, Loweswater and Weddicar. These and a number of other gifts made St Bees the third-richest monastic house in the county. Around 1190, the priory was enlarged by constructing a new chancel
In church architecture, the chancel is the space around the altar, including the Choir (architecture), choir and the sanctuary (sometimes called the presbytery), at the liturgical east end of a traditional Christian church building. It may termi ...
at the east end, and further enlarged by the addition of an aisle along the south of this chancel.
In its most prosperous and active period, the 14th–15th centuries, the priory had not only a large church, but a range of monastic domestic buildings.
None of the priors rose to great prominence in the wider church, though two became Abbots of York. Possibly the relative isolation of St Bees meant that it was out of the mainstream of monastic politics. However, its proximity to the Scottish border had disadvantages. It is known the priory suffered in 1315 from Scots raiders, when after the Battle of Bannockburn
The Battle of Bannockburn ( or ) was fought on 23–24 June 1314, between the army of Robert the Bruce, King of Scots, and the army of King Edward II of England, during the First War of Scottish Independence. It was a decisive victory for Ro ...
James Douglas came south and raided the priory and destroyed two of its mansions.[Collison C, ''Ye Boke of ye Busie Bee"'' Dickinson, Millom, 1940] There is also an undated raid, possibly occurring in 1216, 1174, or further back in the reign of King Stephen.
The monks were active in early coal mining, and the earliest reference to mining in the Whitehaven area is in the time of Prior Langton (1256–82), concerning the coal mines at Arrowthwaite. In addition to husbandry, there is evidence the monks ran a mill in the village. Charter 423 of the priory refers to a grant of all the water in Rottington for the use of the priory sometime between 1240 and 1265.
Despite this prosperity it is likely, as with many monastic houses, that the priory was running down by the time of the Dissolution of the Monasteries, as the large chapel in the chancel south aisle at the east end appears to have become ruined about 1500, but not rebuilt. This can be seen in Bucks' view of the priory dating from 1739, and some of the ruins are still visible.
Dissolution
The monastic priory was dissolved on 16 October 1539. The nave, tower, and transepts continued in use as the parish church, and some of the cloister range was retained as a residence for the parish priest. This was demolished in 1816, when a new vicarage was built and the theological college was founded. The monastic chancel at the east end was rendered roofless and the east arch of the tower was infilled with a dividing wall. The chapter house
A chapter house or chapterhouse is a building or room that is part of a cathedral, monastery or collegiate church in which meetings are held. When attached to a cathedral, the cathedral chapter meets there. In monasteries, the whole communi ...
and east range of buildings were demolished.
Burials in the priory
* William de Lancaster I
* Anthony de Lucy, 3rd Baron Lucy (d. 1368)
*Prior Thomas de Cotyngham
The parish church
Following the Dissolution, the priory nave continued in use as the parish church. By 1611 it was necessary to undertake considerable repairs, including the large bell tower which was structurally repaired to prevent further collapse; it had deteriorated to not far above the present arches. There was continuing attention by a series of small repairs going through the 17th and 18th centuries. In the 18th century the west door was not used, probably because the land abutting the door had passed into secular ownership, and the congregation entered via a north porch. By the early 1800s the building was in a poor state of repair.
The Theological College
In 1816 George Henry Law
George Henry Law (12 September 1761 – 22 September 1845) was the Bishop of Chester (1812) and then, from 1824, Bishop of Bath and Wells.
Born at the lodge of Peterhouse, Cambridge, of which his father Edmund Law (who later became Bishop of ...
, Bishop of Chester
The Bishop of Chester is the Ordinary of the Church of England Diocese of Chester in the Province of York.
The diocese extends across most of the historic county boundaries of Cheshire, including the Wirral Peninsula and has its see in the ...
, in whose diocese the priory then was, founded the St Bees Theological College.[Park, Rev Dr T ''St Bees College - Pioneering Higher Education in 19th Century Cumbria'' 2008, . It was the first Church of England college for the training of clergy outside Oxford and Cambridge and was an immediate success due to its more vocational approach.] The monastic chancel, which had been roofless since the Dissolution, was re-roofed to become the main college lecture room and library. The students lodged in the village and the college principal was also the Vicar of St Bees. The college was very successful, training over 2,600 clergy. It closed in 1895, both at the prospect of falling numbers as it could not award degrees, and its vulnerability as a private institution as students now favoured the larger colleges that had been created using the St Bees model.
Restoration
The 19th century was the era of restoration, helped significantly by the presence of the Theological College and the increasing prosperity of the village. The west door came into use again, a new vicarage was built to the west, and the last of the monastic cloister was demolished. The nave and transepts were re-roofed, and to accommodate a new organ in 1867 the west gallery was taken down. The altar was moved from under the tower east into a new chancel, which occupied one bay of the monastic choir. The tower was re-built in the Romanesque style to the design of William Butterfield when the eight bells were installed in 1858. The north and south aisles were partly rebuilt and completely furnished with new stained glass. In 1899 the present magnificent "Father" Henry Willis organ was installed.
Present use
The church continues in use as the parish church of St Bees. In 1953 the Butterfield Romanesque spire was removed, and the bells were re-hung. In the 1960s the central pew arrangement was removed to give a centre aisle, and in the 1980s a doorway was built between the church and the monastic choir, which now acts as one of the parish rooms. In the south aisle lapidarium
A lapidarium is a place where stone (Latin: ) monuments and fragments of archaeological interest are exhibited.
They can include stone epigraphy, epigraphs; statues; architectural elements such as columns, cornices, and acroterions; bas relief ...
are collections of effigies and carved stones, including a very fine incised stone of Prior Cotyngham. There is also a comprehensive history display created in 2010.
Architecture
All the church buildings that were in use at the time of the Dissolution are still standing and in use by the parish. However, nothing remains of the domestic buildings of the monks.
The Norman west doorway of the priory dates from 1150 to 1160,[Pevsner N, ''The buildings of England, Cumberland and Westmorland''. 1967] and is the most richly decorated in the county, with three orders of columns, zig-zag (chevron) ornamentations, and beak-head decorations. Opposite in the west courtyard is a fine Romanesque lintel, which may have served an earlier church, dating from circa 1120. The six nave arcades are Early English arches sitting on the original Norman pillars. The base of the tower is Norman but the arches are Early English. The east wall of the north transept has plain Norman windows above the chapel altar, and there is a fine Norman window on the north side of the present chancel, though with Victorian plate tracery. The St Bega chapel in the north transept has two fine Norman windows above the altar. Flanking the altar are the two sculptures of St Bega and the Virgin Mary by Josefina de Vasconcellos which make up the "Vision of St Bega" (1950). In the 19th century two large cinquefoil
''Potentilla'' is a genus containing over 500 species of annual, biennial and perennial herbaceous flowering plants in the rose family, Rosaceae.
Potentillas may also be called cinquefoils in English, but they have also been called five fin ...
openings were inserted by Butterfield into the medieval east walls of the transepts. The side aisles are a Victorian restoration down to the string course.
At the east end, beyond the present chancel wall built by Butterfield, is the monastic chancel of about 1190, still almost complete, with a fine range of lancet windows on the north side and an arcade of arches (now infilled and with modern windows) on the south side, which would have led to the 14th-century chapel in the chancel aisle. The monastic chancel is currently separated from the body of the church by the altar wall, though there is a modern connecting doorway. It is currently used as a parish room. Beneath the elevated wooden floor of the present building is the original stone floor of the medieval church.
Outside to the south of the chancel are the remains of the chapel built 1270–1300, which may have fallen due to structural problems before the Dissolution. In the ruined fragment of the south wall can be seen the top steps of the monks' night stairs and a squint window, while to the east all that remains of a window is its north jamb
In architecture
Architecture is the art and technique of designing and building, as distinguished from the skills associated with construction. It is both the process and the product of sketching, conceiving, planning, designing, and cons ...
.
St Bees Man
During an archaeological dig in 1981 in the area of the 14th-century ruined chapel at the east end, a number of medieval burials were uncovered, and the remains of an earlier building on a different alignment to the priory was found. The most significant find was of a man aged 35–45 in a lead coffin in a stone vault, given the name St Bees Man, whose body was well-preserved. It has now been determined with a high degree of probability that he was Anthony de Lucy, a knight
A knight is a person granted an honorary title of a knighthood by a head of state (including the pope) or representative for service to the monarch, the church, or the country, especially in a military capacity.
The concept of a knighthood ...
, who died in 1368 in the Teutonic Crusades in Prussia
Prussia (; ; Old Prussian: ''Prūsija'') was a Germans, German state centred on the North European Plain that originated from the 1525 secularization of the Prussia (region), Prussian part of the State of the Teutonic Order. For centuries, ...
. Although the body was about six hundred years old, his nails, skin and stomach contents were found to be in near-perfect condition.[Text of lecture given by John M Todd at the Post Graduate Seminar on Medieval history, Lancaster University, Sept, 1987, and later at Oxford, Copenhagen and St Andrews universities.] After his death the vault was enlarged to take the body of his sister, Maud de Lucy, who died in 1398. The probable effigies of both Maud and Anthony can be seen in the extensive history display in the priory, which includes the shroud in which he was wrapped.
Gallery
File:St_bees_priory_east_end.jpg, The late 12th-century monastic chancel
File:St Bees dragon stone.jpg, Romanesque lintel circa 1120, showing St Michael fighting a dragon
File:St Bees Priory - 12th century chancel.jpg, Interior – the restored monastic chancel, now a parish room
File:St Bees priory effigies.JPG, Medieval effigies. Top: thought to be Anthony de Lucy. Middle: Maud de Lucy. Bottom: possibly Robert de Harington.
File:St Bees priory Willis organ.jpg, The famous pipe organ by Henry Willis
File:St Bees bells in up position.jpg, The priory's 8 bells shown in the "up" position
File:St bees priory history display.jpg, Historical information and study area
File:St bees graveyard war memorial.jpg, St Bees graveyard war memorial, designed by W. G. Collingwood
File:Vision of st bega st bees.jpg, Vision of St Bega by Josefina de Vasconcellos
See also
* List of monastic houses in Cumbria
* Grade I listed churches in Cumbria
* Grade I listed buildings in Cumbria
* Listed buildings in St Bees
* List of English abbeys, priories and friaries serving as parish churches
* Josefina de Vasconcellos
* Richard Parkinson (priest)
References
Notes
Further reading
* Further details on St Bees Man see: ''Proceedings of the Paleopathology Association, 4th European meeting,'' (Middelburg Antwerpen 1982) pp. 171–187.
* Further details on the cult of St Bega see: Clare Downham 'St Bega - myth, maiden or bracelet?' ''Journal of Medieval History'' 33 (2007) 33-42 https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/abs/10.1016/j.jmedhist.2007.01.003?journalCode=rmed20
External links
St Bees village web site
{{DEFAULTSORT:Saint Bees Priory
Monasteries in Cumbria
English churches with Norman architecture
Christian monasteries established in the 1130s
Grade I listed buildings in Cumbria
1539 disestablishments in England
12th-century establishments in England
Church of England church buildings in Cumbria
Monasteries dissolved under the English Reformation
St Bees