shanku

(), sometimes referred as (), (), or () when used as a military attire, (), () and () when made out of coarse cloth, and also known as samfu in English or samfoo (pronunciation: ') in British English following its Cantonese spelling, is a generic term which refers to a two-piece set of attire in , which is typically composed of a (), a Chinese upper garment which typically overlaps and closes on the right side which could be called (), (), (), and a pair of long trousers ' (). As a form of daily attire, the was mainly worn by people from lower social status in China, such as labourers, shopkeepers, or retainers from wealthy household. The was originally worn by both genders. Up until the mid-20th century, it was popular in China and outside of China where it was worn by overseas Chinese in countries, such as Singapore, Malaysia, Suriname, etc. It is still worn in present-day China and can be found in rural areas.

Terminology

The term (), () or () typically refers to the two-piece set of attire composed of an upper garment which is generally above and below the hips and knees and a pair of trousers, which are both made out of coarse cloth and was generally worn by people doing manual labour, such as farm work, and by martial artists.

The generic term (), also called referred as and uses the same Chinese characters (), is typically used to refer to military or riding style attire which is composed of a jacket or coat and trousers. According to the , the coat, (; sometimes referred as ), typically used as part of the , was a (). A () was a with a closure according to the (). The term () also existed, but they were only long enough to cover the knees, which suggest that the other forms of were shorter than knee-length. Although the attire were often times associated with , some of these garment items and styles were in fact Chinese innovations.

English definition

In English language, ' is commonly written as 'samfoo' in British English or 'samfu'.

According to the Collins English Dictionary, the samfoo or samfu (pronounced: ') originated from the combination of the Chinese (Cantonese) words "sam" (dress) and "foo" (trousers).

The Oxford Learner's Advanced Dictionaries and the Concise Oxford English Dictionary indicate that the term samfu originated in the 1950s from the Cantonese dialect shaam foò, 'shaam' which means ‘coat’ and 'foò' which means ‘trousers’. Among English dictionaries, there are variation in the definition of samfoo/ samfu.

The ''Collins English Dictionary'' defines samfoo/samfu as being:

The ''Oxford Learner's Advanced Dictionarie''s defines samfu as being:

The 12th edition of the ''Concise Oxford English Dictionary'' defines samfu as being:

Design and Construction

The ' is a two-piece set of attire, which is composed of a jacket as an upper garment and a pair of trousers as a lower garment. More precisely, the ' is composed of the ' and the trousers generally known as '.

The ' and the ' were typically made of similar fabrics. However, the two garments were sometimes made separately and did not belong to the same set of clothing.

Upper garment

The ' () or ' () or ' () or ' () all refer to Chinese upper garment, which typically has a side fastening to the right, known as '.

Prior to the Qing dynasty, the shape of the collar and closure of the upper garment were typically ', a collar which crosses or overlaps in the front and closed to the right side similar to the alphabet letter《y》in shape, as the ones worn in Ming dynasty and the previous dynasties, instead of the '-style, the curved or slanted overlap closure which looks more similar to the alphabet letter《S》, which was commonly worn in the late Qing dynasty. The ' could have a mandarin collar or a high standing collar.

The ' could be long-sleeved, short-sleeved, or sleeveless depending on the time period. The sleeves could be wide or narrow, and the shape of the cuff could vary depending on styles and time period.

The bodice of the ' varied in length depending on the time period, but it could also be thigh-length.

Lower garment

The ' (), as a general term, was a pair of long trousers which could be loose or narrow. There are many types of ' with some having closed rises while others have opened rise. Trousers with close rises were typically referred as ' to differentiate from the ' which typically referred to trousers without rises.

Fitting

The ' is traditionally loose in terms of fitting. However, due to the influence of Western fashion, it became more tight fitting in the 1950s and 1960s.

Colours

The ' was typically dyed in black, blue or grey. The waistband of the ' was typically made of lighter coloured fabric, such as blue or white. However, the colours of the ' could vary depending on ethnic groups.

History and development

Pre-history

In the Neolithic period, the trousers were known as () and were the original form of the without crotches. The form of the Neolithic was different from the trousers worn nowadays as it came in pairs of legs like shoes. They were knee-high trousers which were tied on the calves and only covered the knees and the ankles; thus allowing its wearer's thighs to be exposed; due to this reason, ancient Chinese wore , a set of attire consisting of the and , on top of their to cover their lower body. This form of continued to be worn until the early Han dynasty.

Shang dynasty

The can be traced back at least to the Shang dynasty. Prior to the introduction of foreigners' clothing, known as , during the Warring States period, a set of attire known as () was already worn by the ancient Chinese people. However, the lower garment called remained in use to cover the -style as the trousers in this period still lacked a rise. In the Shang dynasty, the slaveholders wore a with and/or . The , which was worn, was similar to a knee-length tunic.

Zhou dynasty, Spring and Autumn period, and Warring States period

In the ' ( – ), it is recorded that exorcists wore black trousers and red jackets.

Adoption of '

During the Warring States period, King Wuling of Zhao (r. 326–298 BC) instituted the () policies which involved the adoption of to facilitate horse riding.

The nomadic clothes adopted by King Wuling consisted of belts, short upper garment, and trousers. The introduced by King Wuling can be designated as (). However, the style of trousers, which was introduced in Central China by King Wuling of Zhao, had a loose, close rise and differed from the indigenous Chinese ; it is thus a style referred as () instead of .

The short garment was a coat was called (), which appears to have been the outermost coat of all garment, resembling a robe with short body and loose sleeves. King Wuling was also known for wearing -style long trousers and upper garments with narrow sleeves.

= Influence of '

=

Under the influence of the , the -style evolved until the thighs were lengthened to cover the thighs forming a newly improved -trousers; it also had a waist enclosure which was added; however, as the improved -trousers still had an open rise and rear, which would allowed for excretion purposes, the still continued to be worn on top of the . Compared to the nomadic which did not fit in the traditional norms of the Chinese people, the was well-accepted by the Chinese as it was more aligned with the Han Chinese tradition.

The trousers with loose rise, , which was adopted from the policy was mainly worn by the military troops and servants while the general population typically continued to wear the -style and the newly improved . Thus, the nomadic-style never fully replaced the and was only worn by military and by the lower class. The nomadic-style loose rise later influenced the formation of other forms of trousers, such as (i.e. trousers with extremely wide legs) which appeared in the Han dynasty and (i.e. trousers with tied strings under the knees). These forms of -trousers were Chinese innovations.

Qin dynasty

In Qin dynasty, short clothing became more common and trousers were generally worn from what can be observed from the unearthed Qin dynasty tomb figures.

As a general term for trousers, the was worn with jackets (), also known as shangru () along with (). The trousers were often wide at the top and narrower at the bottom and could be find with rise.

Terracotta warriors, for example, wears a type of long robe which is worn on top of skirt and trousers. The Qin artisans valued contrasting colours; for example, the upper garments which were green in colour were often decorated with red or purple border; this upper garment would often be worn together with blue, or purple, or red trousers.

Han dynasty

Starting since the Eastern Han dynasty, trousers with rise, , gradually started to be worn, the of the Han dynasty gradually replaced the . While the long robe known as was mainly worn for formal occasions in the Han dynasty, men wore a waist-length '' ru'' and trousers in their ordinary days while women wore ruqun. Manual labourers tended to be wear even shorter upper garment and lower garment as due to their convenient use for work.

In the Han dynasty, the trousers came in variety of styles, such as and , while a derivative of the -trousers known as was developed.

The was worn with a loose robe (either or ) in the Han dynasty by both military and civil officials. The were trousers which were tied with strings under the knees.

The is a type of which covered the hips and legs and its rise and hips regions were closed at the front and multiple strings were used to tie it at the back of its wearer; it was made for palace maids. The continued to be worn for a long period of time, and was even worn in the Ming dynasty.

Wei, Jin, Northern, and Southern dynasties

In the early medieval period of China (220–589 AD), male and female commoners commoners, including servants and field labourers, wore a full-sleeved, long jacket (which were either waist or knee length) which was tied with a belt. Common women could either wear skirts or trousers under their jackets. Full trousers with slightly tempered cuffs or trousers which were tied just below the knees were worn under the jacket. In tombs inventories dating to the early 600s, cases of (), (), and () can be found.

The or consisted of the ' and a , a tight-fitting upper garment, ' ', which reached the knee level. The was a popular form of clothing attire and was worn by both genders; it was worn by both military and civil officials in the Northern and Southern dynasties.

The which appeared in the late Northern dynasty, was created by assimilating non-Han cultures in order to create a new design which reflected the Han Chinese culture. The , the style of -trousers were bounded at knees and dates back to the Han dynasty, allowed for greater ease of movement; they were also worn in the Western Jin to increase ease of movements when horseback riding or when on military duty. In the Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties, the ', especially the ones with a wide bottom, became popular among aristocrats and commoners alike. While this style of was associated with the worn by foreigners and non-Chinese minority ethnicities due to the use of felt chords, a textile associated with foreigners; it was actually not a stylistic invention from the Northern people and were not a form of nomad clothing. During this period, the nomadic tribes, which also wore their own -styles of , also ended up being influenced by the Han Chinese style due to the multiculturalism aspect of this period. The which was in the form of the with tight sleeves originated from the Northern minorities was also adopted by the Chinese before being localized and developed Chinese characteristics; the was slightly longer than the worn by the Chinese and had a , round collar.
File:Three Kingdoms tomb brick3.JPG, Shanku (left) and ruqun (middle and right), Three Kingdoms period
File:魏晉墓磚畫 耕犁圖.jpg, Male commoner wearing a long knee-length jacket and trousers, Western Jin Dynasty (265–316 CE)
File:CMOC Treasures of Ancient China exhibit - figure of a female warrior.jpg, Xianbei female warrior wearing trousers and upper garment
File:Consort Ban and Emperor Cheng, Northern Wei painted screen.jpg, Servants wearing top and trousers while aristocrats wear paofu and guiyi, Northern Wei painting
File:Western Wei Pottery Civil Official (9832712915).jpg, alt=, Civil official in shanku, Western Wei
File:Tomb Brick of Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties (10369785576).jpg, Tomb Brick of Wei, Jin, or Southern-Northern Dynasties
File:Yanju's tomb, dancer left, table between Yanju and entertainers.jpg, Men wearing shanku. Painting from Yanju's tomb, also known as Jiuquan Dingjia Gate No. 5 Tomb, 5th century AD.

Sui to Tang dynasties

In Tang dynasty, the trousers which were worn by men were mainly worn with a form of known as . However, the which had been worn in the previous dynasties remained popular until the Sui and Tang dynasties period.

Song to Yuan dynasty

In the Song to the Yuan dynasty, the , trousers with narrow legs, was worn by the general population during this period.

Song dynasty

In Song dynasty, labourers who performed heavy tasks preferred to wear short jackets and trousers due to its convenience. In this period, the worn by poor people were short length clothing and were made out of coarse fabric.
File:蠶織圖局部5.jpg, A woman (in the middle) wearing a with an apron; a Song dynasty painting
File:Qingming Festival Detail 14.jpg, Peasant men wearing , Song dynasty painting
File:Qingming Festival Detail 3.jpg, Seller wearing
File:Qingming Festival Detail 13.jpg, A man wearing vs men wearing

Yuan dynasty

In Yuan dynasty, some scholars and commoners wore the terlig, a Mongol-style , which was braided at the waists and had pleats and narrow-fitting sleeves.

Ming dynasty

In Ming dynasty, the trousers with open-rise and close-rise were worn by men and women. Women in Ming continued to wear trousers under their skirts.
File:人物肖像2.jpg, Ming dynasty portrait of a person wearing white trousers and blue top
File:Fisherman Zang Lu.jpg, Fisherman, Ming dynasty painting

Appearance of standing collars

In the late Ming dynasty, jackets with high collars started to appear. The standup collar were closed with interlocking buttons made of gold and silver, called (). The appearance of interlocking buckle promoted the emergence and the popularity of the standup collar and the Chinese jacket with buttons at the front, and laid the foundation of the use of Chinese knot buckles. In women garments of the Ming dynasty, the standup collar with gold and silver interlocking buckles became one of the most distinctive and popular form of clothing structure; it became commonly used in women's clothing reflecting the conservative concept of Ming women's chastity by keeping their bodies covered and due to the climate changes during the Ming dynasty (i.e. the average temperature was low in China).

Qing dynasty - 19th Century

The high collar jacket continued to be worn in Qing dynasty, but it was not a common feature until the 20th century. In the late Qing, the high collar become more popular and was integrated to the jacket and robe of the Chinese and the Manchu becoming a regular garment feature instead of an occasional feature. For the Han Chinese women, the stand-up collar became a defining feature of their long jacket; this long jacket with high collar could be worn over their trousers but also over their skirts (i.e. aoqun). The high collar remained a defining feature of their jacket even in the first few years of the republic.

In Qing dynasty, Han Chinese women who wore without wearing a skirt on top of their trousers were typically people born from the lower social class. Otherwise, they would wear trousers under their skirts which is in accordance with the traditions since the Han dynasty. In Mesny's Chinese Miscellany written in 1897 by William Mesny, it was however observed that skirts were worn by Chinese women over their trousers in some regions of China, but that in most areas, skirts were only used when women would go out for paying visits. He also observed that the wearing of trousers was a national custom for Chinese women and that trousers were worn in their homes when they would do house chores; he observed that women were dressed almost like men when working at home, except that their trousers had trims at the bottom of different coloured materials.

In the 19th century, the ''shan'' was long in length and the trousers ''ku'' was wide. In the late 19th century, men stopped wearing the ''shan'' which closes to the right and started wearing a jacket with a central-opening which looks similar to the Tangzhuang.
File:男人理髮稱作“剃頭”是從清朝開始的，剃頭顱前的頭髮，腦後留辮子以示歸順清朝。最常見的是剃頭挑子，把全部的剃頭用具都挑在扁擔的兩頭，走街串巷，上門服務 - Sohu.jpg, Qing dynasty men wearing , before 1912 AD
File:大夫正為女病人把脈診病。舊時，男大夫為女性診病，接觸其身體時，手部為最極限之部位。- Sohu.jpg, A woman wearing a white ''shan/ao'' and dark coloured ''ku''
File:Playing a pipa.jpg, Woman wearing a blue ao/shan and pink trousers
File:THE LADY'S MAID.jpg, A lady's maid
File:Child hanfu qing6.jpg, Child's
File:Trousers (China), late 19th century (CH 18562157).jpg, outfit, late 19th century

20th Century

In the 20th century, the 19th century long ''shan'' gradually became shorter and become more fitted. The neckband of the shan was also narrow. Sleeveless and short-sleeved ''shanku'' also existed in the 20th century.

In the 1950s, women of the lower status and those worked on farms would sometimes wear ''shanku'' which was decorated with floral patterns and checks. People living in urban areas started to wear western clothing while people in rural areas continued to wear ''shanku''. In Hong Kong, ''shanku'' continued to be worn when people were away from their workplace.
File:Woman in traditional Hakka hairstyle in Toen.jpg, Hakka woman wearing shanku, between 1935 and 1945
File:Old Hakka women sitting rural Miaoli.jpg, Hakka woman in , 1950
During the Great Leap Forward, the Mao suit became popular. but it was not expected for children to wear the Mao suit. While in cities, children started to wear Western style clothing, the children in the rural areas continued to wear the traditional ''shanku'' which were made of cotton checked fabrics, stripe fabrics, or other patterned fabrics.

Ethnic clothing

Han Chinese

Both Han Chinese women and men of the labouring classes wore ''shanku''. The trousers, which could be found either narrow or wide, were a form of standard clothing for the Han Chinese.

Hakka

The Hakka people wears ''shanku'' as their traditional clothing; both Hakka men and women wear it. The preferred colours of the Hakka ''shanku'' is typically blue and black.

Hoklo

The Hoklo people wears ''shanku'' which is composed of fitted-style of ''shan'' which has a deeply curved hem and black-coloured trousers ''ku''. Their ''shan'' was characterized by the bands decoration at the sleeves edges and at the garment opening as well as the collar of the ''shan'' which was very narrow and also consisted of piping rows. They typically wore bright colours such as light blue as every day wear while colours such as purple, deep blue, deep turquoise were reserved for special occasions.

Tanka

The Tanka people also wear ''shanku'' which is distinctive in style wherein the ''shan'' and the ''ku'' matched in colour; they prefer wearing colours which are lighter and brighter, such as pale green, pale blue, turquoise, yellow and pink. These lighter colours tended to be preferred by younger women or by newly married women; they were also worn on special occasions. On the other hand, darker colours were favoured by older women.

Influences and derivatives

Vietnam

In the 15th century (from 1407 to 1478), the Vietnamese women adopted Chinese trousers under the occupation of the Ming dynasty. During the 17th and 18th century, Vietnam was divided in two regions with the Nguyen lords ruling the South. The Nguyen lords ordered that southern men and women had to wear Chinese-stye trousers and long front-buttoning tunics to differentiate themselves from the people living in the North. This form of outfit developed with time over the next century becoming the precursor of the áo dài, the outfit generally consisted of trousers, loose-fitting shirt with a stand-up collar and a diagonal right side closure which run from the neck to the armpit; these features were inspired by the Chinese and the Manchu clothing.

In the pre-20th century, Vietnamese people of both sexes continue to maintain old Ming-style of Chinese clothing consisting of a long and loose knee-length tunics and ankle-length, loose trousers. In the 1920s, the form ensemble outfit was refitted to become the Vietnamese dress female national dress, the ladies' ''áo dài''.

Related content

* ''Áo dài'' - a Vietnamese equivalent
* Ru - a type of Chinese upper garment
* Hufu - non-Han Chinese clothing
* Tangzhuang

See also

* Hanfu
* Ruqun
* Hakka people

Notes

References

{{Reflist

Chinese traditional clothing