Sbai

''Sbai'' ( km, ស្បៃ ; lo, ສະໄບ; Malay: ''Sebai''; Jawi: ''سباي''; th, สไบ, ) or ''phaa biang'' ( lo, ຜ້າບ່ຽງ; th, ผ้าเบี่ยง ) is a shawl-like garment or breast cloth worn in mainland Southeast Asia. ''Sbai'' is worn by women as a silk breast wrapper in Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand, while in coastal Sumatra and Malay peninsula, the same term is used to describe a shoulder cloth. The ''sbai'' was derived from the Indian ''sari'', the end of which is worn over one shoulder.

Etymology

''Sbai'' is a Khmer word that refers to any kind of thin and soft garment. In clothing, it specifically refers to a shawl-like garment or breast cloth used mostly by women and to a lesser extent religious men.

History

Sbai is derived from the Indian sari which may have been introduced to Southeast Asia through the Indianized Kingdoms along with other traditions and elements of Indian culture.

Cambodia

The ''sbai'' of Cambodia was introduced from ancient India as it resembles Indian sari. There are related mythologies in the Khmer culture concerning the history of ''sbai'', which was likely introduced during the Kingdom of Funan alongside chang kben in the first century AD. The ''sbai'' is mentioned in the legends of Preah Thong and Neang Neak. In one scene, Preah Thong clings to a piece of cloth worn on the Nagini in order to make the journey to the Nāga's kingdom; that piece of cloth is a ''sbai''. In that tale, the ''sbai'' is symbolic of the tail of Neang Neak, the Naga princess.

In Angkorian period, although it was common for men and women to be topless, however clothes for the upper body were worn: the bas reliefs of Bayon, Preah Khan, and other Angkorian temples depict women wearing a shawl-like ''sbai'' while religious male figures are adorned with stylized ''sbai''. At Angkor Wat, there are depictions of topless Apsaras holding sbai connected to their ''sampot'', while the northern wall of Angkor Wat depicts a group of ladies wearing long ''sbai'' holding various offerings.

Nowadays, ''sbai'' along with chang kben and sampot are regarded as Cambodia national costume. Sbai most often used in traditional Khmer weddings with different type and decoration during the rite of () which represents the legend of the foundation of Funan and where the groom holds on to the bride's ''sbai'' as they go to their room. The groom also wears a ''sbai''.

For men, especially Brahmin and Buddhist monk, the ''sbai'' called '' sbong sbai trai chivor,'' and is considered the robe of Hindu and Buddhist monks. For women, ''sbai'' can be freely used and in different ways such as to wrapping it around the body, covering the shoulder, and commonly covering the breast and stomach over the left shoulder. Different styles of ''sbai'' are used by Cambodian women based on their preferences and traditions.

Laos

In Laos, this garment is known as ''phaa biang'' or sabai. It is common for Lao women to wear ''sabai'' as it is considered traditional clothing. A ''sabai'' can also be worn by men in weddings or when attending religious ceremonies. The type of ''sabai'' typically worn by Lao men often has checkered patterns. ''Sabai'' can also be a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, that is draped diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back.Bonnie Ghazarbekian, Jane Siegel, ''Sawaddi, 15 years'', p.130.

Malaysia

In Malaysia, Sebai is a cloth wrapped around the neck to cover the shoulders with both ends hanging on the chest similar to a scarf hung over the shoulders.

Myanmar

The ethnic Mon is also known to have similar tradition of wearing the shawl-like ''sabai'' called ''Yat Toot'' in Mon language, diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back like that worn by Lao women. This tradition distinguished them from other ethnic groups in Myanmar. The today Mon people of Myanmar and Thailand were the descendants of various Indianized polities notably Dvaravati. Artifacts from Mon Dvaravati sites in what is now Thailand depicted a group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''.

Thailand

Dvaravati sites depicting group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''.
''Sabai'' ( th, สไบ, , ) or pha biang ( th, ผ้าเบี่ยง ) is shawl-like garment, or breast cloth. Sabais can be used by women or men. The sabai is also known as a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, draped diagonally around the chest by covering one shoulder which its end drops behind the back. Sabais could be worn around the naked chest or on top of another cloth. The practice of wearing Sabai along with Victorian cloth was a common practice during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and lasted until the reign of King Vajiravudh when Westernized clothing became more fashionable.

Gallery

File:Sbai Khmer.png, Figures wearing ''sbai'' depicted on the Bayon temple, Angkor Wat
File:Khmer temple depictions of Sbai.png, Figures wearing stylised ''sbai'' depicted on Angkorian temples
File:Ang Mei, Queen of Cambodia.jpeg, Queen Ang Mey and her daughters wearing ''sbai'' in the 1800s
File:Femme-serail.jpg, Khmer Cambodian lady wearing ''sbai'' in late 1800s
File:Cambodian couple.jpg, Cambodian bride wearing a ''sbai'' in a wedding ceremony
File:Cambodian American Dance (22662834390).jpg, Dancer wearing ''sbai''
File:Style of Sbai.png, Different styles of wrapping ''sbai'' used in Cambodia

See also

*Sampot Chang Kben
*Khmer Traditional Dress
*Culture of Cambodia
*Chut thai
*Sampot
*Sampot Samloy
*Kemben
*Malaysian cultural outfits
*Sari
*Traditional Thai clothing

References

External links

{{Historical clothing

Shawls and wraps
Cambodian clothing
Folk costumes
Laotian clothing
Malay clothing
Thai clothing
History of Asian clothing