Saunags (
Livonian: ''Sǟnag'') is a populated place in
Kolka Parish,
Talsi Municipality
Talsi Municipality ( lv, Talsu novads) is a municipality in Courland, Latvia. The municipality was formed in 2009 by merging Abava parish, Balgale parish, Ģibuļi parish, Īve parish, Ķūļciems parish, Laidze parish, Lauciene parish, L� ...
,
Latvia
Latvia ( or ; lv, Latvija ; ltg, Latveja; liv, Leţmō), officially the Republic of Latvia ( lv, Latvijas Republika, links=no, ltg, Latvejas Republika, links=no, liv, Leţmō Vabāmō, links=no), is a country in the Baltic region of ...
, located from the
Cape Kolka, within the borders of
Slītere National Park. The name derived from Livonian ''Sǟnag'' –
pike perch (
Sander), a local fish. First mentioned in documents in 1310, it is the oldest of the twelve Livonian villages on the
Livonian Coast. It consists of two parts - Saunags and Dižsaunags, the later being the oldest and more preserved one. Located along the coast of the
Baltic Sea
The Baltic Sea is an arm of the Atlantic Ocean that is enclosed by Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Germany, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Russia, Sweden and the North and Central European Plain.
The sea stretches from 53°N to 66°N latitude and fr ...
and formerly inhabited by
Livonian people
The Livonians, or Livs ( Livonian: ''līvlizt''; Estonian: ''liivlased''; Latvian: ''līvi'', ''lībieši''), are a Balto-Finnic people indigenous to northern and northwestern Latvia. Livonians historically spoke Livonian, a Uralic language ...
.
History and local landmarks
Saunags is at the same latitude as
Gothenburg (
Sweden) and the same longitude as
Turku
Turku ( ; ; sv, Åbo, ) is a city and former capital on the southwest coast of Finland at the mouth of the Aura River, in the region of Finland Proper (''Varsinais-Suomi'') and the former Turku and Pori Province (''Turun ja Porin lääni''; ...
(
Finland
Finland ( fi, Suomi ; sv, Finland ), officially the Republic of Finland (; ), is a Nordic country in Northern Europe. It shares land borders with Sweden to the northwest, Norway to the north, and Russia to the east, with the Gulf of Bo ...
), both important ancient regional trading and cultural centres. Although far from large towns and sparsely populated, this coastal area had strategic importance in many wars because of its proximity to
Irbe Strait, the main sea route to
Riga
Riga (; lv, Rīga , liv, Rīgõ) is the capital and largest city of Latvia and is home to 605,802 inhabitants which is a third of Latvia's population. The city lies on the Gulf of Riga at the mouth of the Daugava river where it meets the B ...
. As a result, the nearby seabed is dotted with medieval to modern shipwrecks. During the
Crimean war
The Crimean War, , was fought from October 1853 to February 1856 between Russia and an ultimately victorious alliance of the Ottoman Empire, France, the United Kingdom and Piedmont-Sardinia.
Geopolitical causes of the war included t ...
the
British navy
A navy, naval force, or maritime force is the branch of a nation's armed forces principally designated for naval and amphibious warfare; namely, lake-borne, riverine, littoral, or ocean-borne combat operations and related functions. It include ...
landed and burned down a military outpost of the
Russian Empire
The Russian Empire was an empire and the final period of the List of Russian monarchs, Russian monarchy from 1721 to 1917, ruling across large parts of Eurasia. It succeeded the Tsardom of Russia following the Treaty of Nystad, which ended th ...
. In the
First World War
World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, the United States, and the Ottoman Empire, with fig ...
the
Russian navy placed a large number of
naval mine
A naval mine is a self-contained explosive device placed in water to damage or destroy surface ships or submarines. Unlike depth charges, mines are deposited and left to wait until they are triggered by the approach of, or contact with, any ve ...
s off-shore - largest such emplacement at that point in Baltic Sea history. This led to many
German
German(s) may refer to:
* Germany (of or related to)
**Germania (historical use)
* Germans, citizens of Germany, people of German ancestry, or native speakers of the German language
** For citizens of Germany, see also German nationality law
**Ger ...
ships being destroyed here. During the
Second World War
World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the World War II by country, vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great power ...
German guns located here and opposite at
Saaremaa
Saaremaa is the largest island in Estonia, measuring . The main island of Saare County, it is located in the Baltic Sea, south of Hiiumaa island and west of Muhu island, and belongs to the West Estonian Archipelago. The capital of the islan ...
island controlled the
Irbe Strait.
After
World War II
World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the World War II by country, vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great power ...
, this area became the
Soviet
The Soviet Union,. officially the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics. (USSR),. was a transcontinental country that spanned much of Eurasia from 1922 to 1991. A flagship communist state, it was nominally a federal union of fifteen national ...
western border. There remains a
USSR border guards tower, projector light, and small security house (the only one still standing).
An old road, located behind the dunes parallel to the coast, connects
Dižsaunags with the former
lighthouse (as the light is dismantled, the tower now functions as the Saunagciema navigational sign) in the direction of
Vaide. Along the route is
Akacija estate and a few abandoned German and Soviet military bunkers. During
World War II
World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the World War II by country, vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great power ...
and after, it was used as a military supply route by Soviet border guards, as well as coast guards servicing the lighthouse. A coastal
narrow gauge railway was planned here linking
Pitrags and
Mazirbe
Mazirbe ( liv, Irē or '', german: Klein-Irben'') is a village place in Kolka Parish, Talsi Municipality, Latvia 18 km southwest of Kolka, Latvia, Kolka. It is one of twelve Livonian villages on ' - the Livonian Coast. Mazirbe is the cul ...
, but was left unfinished during
World War I
World War I (28 July 1914 11 November 1918), often abbreviated as WWI, was List of wars and anthropogenic disasters by death toll, one of the deadliest global conflicts in history. Belligerents included much of Europe, the Russian Empire, ...
. This historic forest road is still used occasionally by local residents.
According to a local legend, there is a
Medieval
In the history of Europe, the Middle Ages or medieval period lasted approximately from the late 5th to the late 15th centuries, similar to the post-classical period of global history. It began with the fall of the Western Roman Empire a ...
burial ground on the outskirts of the village in the direction of
Vaide, however archeological works conducted in 2012 did not find any burials there (except just some pets). Next to this site lay the ruins of the first
Soviet military
The Soviet Armed Forces, the Armed Forces of the Soviet Union and as the Red Army (, Вооружённые Силы Советского Союза), were the armed forces of the Russian SFSR (1917–1922), the Soviet Union (1922–1991), and th ...
base built by troops of
Baltic Military District
The Baltic Military District () was a military district of the Soviet armed forces in the Baltic states, formed briefly before the German invasion during the World War II. After end of the war the Kaliningrad Oblast was added to the District's cont ...
soon after
World War II
World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the World War II by country, vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great power ...
.
Although situated in a coastal environment, Saunags is home to a very large
lime tree on Niglini estate, and a group of very large black alder (''
Alnus glutinosa
''Alnus glutinosa'', the common alder, black alder, European alder, European black alder, or just alder, is a species of tree in the family Betulaceae, native to most of Europe, southwest Asia and northern Africa. It thrives in wet locations ...
'') trees on Kalnbunkas estate.
Dumbrāju dižkoki
''Vide un Laiks'' 1999/3 (9), 4. lpp.(in Latvian) According to a Latvian registry listing all great or largest trees, Saunags is the only locality with two species large trees in one place.
The village can be accessed from the main asphalted road or via the old forest road connecting Saunags with Vaide and Pitrags. There are signs on the forest road marking the borders of Saunags.
Former and present landowners
Most of the land in this area, as well as neighbouring areas, for many centuries, until 1918 belonged to the Baron Osten-Sacken
The House von der Osten-Sacken is an old and distinguished noble family of Baltic Germans. The family members held the titles of ''Baron'', ''Graf'', ''Knyaz'' and ''Fürst''.
History
The origins of the family are traced to 14th century. In 16 ...
family, a fairly important local Baltic-German noble dynasty. Their main seat was Dundaga Castle (former name Dundagen).[Saunags short history ]
After 1905 upraising local fishermen were gradually allowed to acquire land plots and their houses from the baron.
In 1731 Dundaga manor book stated three estates in Saunags: Buncke Pritiz (present name Kalnbunkas), Melcke Ans and Walke Angeck. According to local elders, it is likely that Bunke Pritiz is the first and the oldest settlement on the whole Livonian coast. It is supported by the fact that this is the location of the oldest trees as well as that the house itself is located at the highest point in the area. Curiously, the nearby forest opening, plot of land between Jaunpakalni's sauna building and Akacijas (now part of Niglini estate), was a well-known area for all local Livonian celebrations for centuries (the opening gradually overgrown with trees over the last 20 years).
In the past, Saunags was mainly populated by fishermen and farmers; today, historic wooden properties are mainly used as summer houses (or ''dacha
A dacha ( rus, дача, p=ˈdatɕə, a=ru-dacha.ogg) is a seasonal or year-round second home, often located in the exurbs of post-Soviet countries, including Russia. A cottage (, ') or shack serving as a family's main or only home, or an out ...
s''). Akacijas estate (former Rupnieki) is the site of former local fish processing and salting plant owned by Kārlis Tilmanis, well known canned fish brand in Latvia between two World Wars. Tilmanis family fled by fishing boat to Sweden in 1945. Only ice storage inside the dune and skeleton wooden pier still remains. The other large estates are Jaunpakalni (include former Pakalni, Kalnbunkas and part of former Niglini), Krumini and Niglini. There is a small private Ethnographic Museum Ethnographic museums conserve, display and contextualize items relevant to the field of ethnography, the systematic study of people and cultures. Such museums include:
List by country/region Albania
* Ethnographic Museum of Kavajë,
* Gjirokast� ...
on Jaunpakalni estate, which includes restored old boat "Pakalni" used for fishing for over 50 years in local waters (viewings are by appointment only). Former fishermen barn, where all chandlery was kept, as well as winter repair wharf, were located symmetrically on the left and right side accordingly of Kalnbunkas' private approach road. Only foundations now remain, although there are plans in place to re-construct them together with the timber pier.
700th anniversary
In 2010 Saunags celebrated its 700th birthday (since first mentioned in documents in year 1310). To mark this anniversary some local summer residents followed old Livonian routes by sea on motor yacht "Kolka" from Riga
Riga (; lv, Rīga , liv, Rīgõ) is the capital and largest city of Latvia and is home to 605,802 inhabitants which is a third of Latvia's population. The city lies on the Gulf of Riga at the mouth of the Daugava river where it meets the B ...
via Ruhnu and Saaremaa
Saaremaa is the largest island in Estonia, measuring . The main island of Saare County, it is located in the Baltic Sea, south of Hiiumaa island and west of Muhu island, and belongs to the West Estonian Archipelago. The capital of the islan ...
islands and Kolka to Saunags, where they disembarked from anchored boat. Memorial sign "DIŽSAUNAGS" was placed on the top of a sand dune nearby, between the two access roads to the beach.
References
Travel notes and photos
See also
*Saaremaa
Saaremaa is the largest island in Estonia, measuring . The main island of Saare County, it is located in the Baltic Sea, south of Hiiumaa island and west of Muhu island, and belongs to the West Estonian Archipelago. The capital of the islan ...
*Livonian people
The Livonians, or Livs ( Livonian: ''līvlizt''; Estonian: ''liivlased''; Latvian: ''līvi'', ''lībieši''), are a Balto-Finnic people indigenous to northern and northwestern Latvia. Livonians historically spoke Livonian, a Uralic language ...
* Livonian coast
{{Livonian villages
Towns and villages in Latvia
Talsi Municipality
Courland
1310