The Satsop Hills are foothills of the Olympic Mountains in
Mason County, Washington north of
Matlock, Washington, between
Wynoochee Lake
The Wynoochee Dam is north of Montesano, Washington. It is owned by the city of Aberdeen, Washington, and was built by the United States Army Corps of Engineers in 1972. The dam regulates the flow of the Wynoochee River, creating Wynoochee Rese ...
to the west and
Lake Cushman to the east.
Geography

The
Satsop River, with a watershed, rises in the hills and flows south to the
Chehalis River. Where the river rises, of annual precipitation qualifies as a
temperate rainforest
Temperate rainforests are coniferous or broadleaf forests that occur in the temperate zone and receive heavy rain.
Temperate rain forests occur in oceanic moist regions around the world: the Pacific temperate rain forests of North American Paci ...
, a term used applied to the Satsop watershed by some publications. The Wynoochee Oxbow meteorological station on the west end of the hills () has both the highest average annual rainfall and the second highest ever recorded in the continental United States. The hills lie partly in the
Olympic National Forest but not quite in the
Olympic National Park. In a 1916 geological survey, hills in the vicinity of Matlock were included with the
Black Hills
The Black Hills ( lkt, Ȟe Sápa; chy, Moʼȯhta-voʼhonáaeva; hid, awaxaawi shiibisha) is an isolated mountain range rising from the Great Plains of North America in western South Dakota and extending into Wyoming, United States. Black Elk P ...
of Thurston County, but may have been describing formations on the East Fork of the Satsop, to the south of the area described above.
Peaks
Peaks in the Satsop Hills include:
History
Forest fire
A wildfire, forest fire, bushfire, wildland fire or rural fire is an unplanned, uncontrolled and unpredictable fire in an area of Combustibility and flammability, combustible vegetation. Depending on the type of vegetation present, a wildfire ...
s have struck the hills repeatedly. The term "Satsop hills" has been used at least since 1885 when the ''Morning Oregonian'' used it to describe the location of forest fires.
In September, 1902, "catastrophic" fires burned across Southwest Washington, including a burn from
Elma to Shelton on Puget Sound that destroyed one million board feet of lumber at a mill in the hills above
Elma, and uncounted volumes of live trees. On September 12, the county seat,
Montesano
Montesano is a city in Grays Harbor County, Washington, Grays Harbor County, Washington (state), Washington, United States. The population was 4,138 at the 2020 United States census, 2020 census. It is the county seat of Grays Harbor County.
Hi ...
experienced darkness at noon. A one- to two-mile wide swath of timber was completely burned from Elma to Summit Lake, 13 miles west.
Several
fire lookouts were built on peaks in the 20th century as listed above as part of a national effort to control fires.
Fugitive John Tornow
The hills were the hideout of John Tornow, a fugitive who lived in the hills for 19 months in the 1910s. He was accused of murdering several people including two nephews, and was eventually found and killed there by the then
Chehalis County sheriff's deputy in 1913.
Transportation
The hills are crossed by extensive
logging roads and an abandoned logging railroad formerly operated by
Simpson Timber Company. The
Vance Creek Bridge
The Vance Creek Bridge is an arch bridge in the Satsop Hills of Mason County, Washington that was built for a logging railroad owned by the Simpson Logging Company in 1929. At in height, it is the second-highest railroad arch in the United Stat ...
,
above Vance Creek (), was the highest railroad bridge in the United States and remains among the twenty
highest bridges in the country.
Wildlife
Deer and
Roosevelt Elk herds are in the hills, as well as
black bear,
cougar
The cougar (''Puma concolor'') is a large Felidae, cat native to the Americas. Its Species distribution, range spans from the Canadian Yukon to the southern Andes in South America and is the most widespread of any large wild terrestrial mamm ...
s and game birds including grouse and "the largest population of mountain quail in the state". Elk are probably migratory and move in and out of the Olympic National Park.
Sasquatch are reported to live in the hills, with 22 reported sightings as of 2014, including a case discovered by a sheriff's deputy in 1982 and investigated by an
Idaho State University
, mottoeng = "The truth will set you free"
, established =
, former_names = Academy of Idaho(1901–1915)Idaho Technical Institute(1915–1927)University of Idaho—Southern Branch(1927–1947)Idaho State ...
biologist in 2004.
Recreation
Recreation in the hills includes canoeing and kayaking, camping, fishing, hunting and hiking.
Schafer State Park, part of the
Washington State Parks system, is on the Satsop River in the low hills at an altitude of ; Truman Glick County Park () is along the abandoned railroad on the southern side of the hills. Hiking destinations noted in printed and online guides include Satsop Lakes (), Spoon Creek Falls, South Mountain, a "moderately well known winter hiking destination" in Mason County,
and Vance Creek Bridge, "made famous from millions of Instagram, Facebook, Tumblr and Twitter images" and though on closed private land, was "one of the more popular destinations on the Olympic Peninsula".
The Grays Harbor County high point is a peak near a slightly higher peak in Mason County unofficially named , sought by
highpointing enthusiasts; it is on the Grays Harbor–Mason County line in the Satsop Hills or nearby in the adjacent Wynoochee watershed ().
Footnotes
References
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* – 1941 original hand-penned map, 1965 third revision
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External links
Walks with Moss: South Mountainhike report
{{Washington State hills and ridges
Landforms of Mason County, Washington
Hills of Washington (state)