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A satin weave is a type of
fabric Textile is an umbrella term that includes various fiber-based materials, including fibers, yarns, filaments, threads, and different types of fabric. At first, the word "textiles" only referred to woven fabrics. However, weaving is no ...
weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustrous material, typically with a glossy top surface and a dull back; it is not durable, as it tends to snag. It is one of three fundamental types of textile
weaves Artificial hair integrations, more commonly known as hair extensions, hair weaves, or fake hair, are cosmetic treatments which add length to human hair. Hair extensions are usually clipped, glued, or sewn on natural hair by incorporating addition ...
alongside
plain weave Plain weave (also called tabby weave, linen weave or taffeta weave) is the most basic of three fundamental types of textile weaving, weaves (along with satin weave and twill). It is strong and hard-wearing, and is used for fashion and furnishi ...
and
twill weave Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of parallel, diagonal ribs. It is one of three fundamental types of weave, along with plain weave and satin. It is made by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads then under ...
. The satin weave is characterised by four or more fill or
weft In the manufacture of cloth, warp and weft are the two basic components in weaving to transform thread (yarn), thread and yarn into textile fabrics. The vertical ''warp'' yarns are held stationary in tension on a loom (frame) while the horizo ...
yarns floating over a
warp Warp, warped or warping may refer to: Arts and entertainment Books and comics * WaRP Graphics, an alternative comics publisher * ''Warp'' (First Comics), comic book series published by First Comics based on the play ''Warp!'' * Warp (comics), a D ...
yarn, and four warp yarns floating over a single weft yarn. Floats are missed interfacings, for example where the warp yarn lies on top of the weft in a warp-faced satin. These floats explain the high lustre and even sheen, as unlike in other weaves, light is not scattered as much when hitting the fibres, resulting in a stronger reflection. Satin is usually a warp-faced weaving technique in which warp yarns are "floated" over weft yarns, although there are also weft-faced satins. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using
filament The word filament, which is descended from Latin ''filum'' meaning " thread", is used in English for a variety of thread-like structures, including: Astronomy * Galaxy filament, the largest known cosmic structures in the universe * Solar filament ...
fibres such as
silk Silk is a natural fiber, natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving, woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is most commonly produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoon (silk), c ...
,
polyester Polyester is a category of polymers that contain one or two ester linkages in every repeat unit of their main chain. As a specific material, it most commonly refers to a type called polyethylene terephthalate (PET). Polyesters include some natura ...
or
nylon Nylon is a family of synthetic polymers characterised by amide linkages, typically connecting aliphatic or Polyamide#Classification, semi-aromatic groups. Nylons are generally brownish in color and can possess a soft texture, with some varieti ...
, the corresponding fabric is termed a 'satin', although some definitions insist that a satin fabric is only made from silk. If the yarns used are short-staple yarns such as
cotton Cotton (), first recorded in ancient India, is a soft, fluffy staple fiber that grows in a boll, or protective case, around the seeds of the cotton plants of the genus '' Gossypium'' in the mallow family Malvaceae. The fiber is almost pure ...
, the fabric formed is considered a
sateen Sateen is a fabric made using a satin weave structure but with spun yarn instead of filament yarn. It is a cotton or other non-silk fabric that has the characteristics of silk satin but is less expensive. The dense weave, sheen, and softer f ...
. Many variations can be made of the basic satin weave, including a granite weave and a check weave. Satin is commonly used in clothing, for items such as
lingerie Lingerie (, , ) is a category of primarily women's clothing including undergarments (mainly brassieres), sleepwear, and lightweight robes. The choice of the word is often motivated by an intention to imply that the garments are alluring, fashio ...
,
nightgown A nightgown, nightie or nightdress is a loosely hanging item of nightwear, and is commonly worn by women and girls. A nightgown is made from cotton, silk, satin, or nylon and may be decorated with lace appliqués or embroidery at the breast, bus ...
s,
blouse A blouse () is a loose-fitting upper garment that may be worn by workmen, peasants, artists, women, and children.The Concise Oxford English Dictionary It is typically gathered at the waist or hips (by tight hem, pleats, parter, or belt) so th ...
s, and
evening gown An evening gown, evening dress or gown is a long dress usually worn at formal occasions. The drop ranges from Ballerina skirt, ballerina (mid-calf to just above the ankles), Tea length, tea (above the ankles), to Skirt length, full-length. S ...
s, but is also used for
boxer shorts Boxer shorts (also commonly known as simply boxers) are a type of undergarment typically worn by men. The term has been used in English since 1944 for all-around-elastic shorts, so named after the shorts worn by Boxing, boxers, for whom unhindered ...
,
shirt A shirt is a cloth garment for the upper body (from the neck to the waist). Originally an undergarment worn exclusively by men, it has become, in American English, a catch-all term for a broad variety of upper-body garments and undergarments. ...
s and
necktie A necktie, long tie, or simply a tie, is a cloth article of formal neckwear or office attire worn for decorative or symbolic purposes, resting under a folded shirt collar or knotted at the throat, and usually draped down the chest. On rare o ...
s. It is also used in the production of
pointe shoe A pointe shoe (, ), also referred to as a ''ballet shoe'', is a type of shoe worn by ballet dancers when performing pointe technique, pointe work. Pointe shoes were conceived in response to the desire for dancers to appear weightless and sylph-li ...
s for
ballet Ballet () is a type of performance dance that originated during the Italian Renaissance in the fifteenth century and later developed into a concert dance form in France and Russia. It has since become a widespread and highly technical form of ...
. Other uses include interior furnishing fabrics, upholstery, and
bed sheet A bed sheet is a rectangular piece of cloth used either singly or in a pair as bedding, which is larger in length and width than a mattress, and which is placed immediately above a mattress or bed, but below blankets and other bedding (such as ...
s.


History


China

Satin was originally made solely of
silk Silk is a natural fiber, natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be weaving, woven into textiles. The protein fiber of silk is composed mainly of fibroin and is most commonly produced by certain insect larvae to form cocoon (silk), c ...
, which, for much of history, was produced and found mainly in
China China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. With population of China, a population exceeding 1.4 billion, it is the list of countries by population (United Nations), second-most populous country after ...
. In China, various forms of satin fabrics existed, which came under several names, such as (), (), (), (), () and (). Chinese satin, in its original form, was supposed to be a five- or six-end warp satin. The six-end warp satin weave was mostly likely a derivative of the six-end warp twill weave during the Tang and
Northern Song dynasty The Song dynasty ( ) was an imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 960 to 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song, who usurped the throne of the Later Zhou dynasty and went on to conquer the rest of the Ten Kingdoms, endin ...
periods.


Europe

Silk satin was introduced to Europe during the 12th century. As an imported fabric, it was considerably expensive, and was worn only by the upper classes.


Etymology

The word "satin" derives its origin from the Chinese port city of
Quanzhou Quanzhou is a prefecture-level city, prefecture-level port city on the north bank of the Jin River, beside the Taiwan Strait in southern Fujian, China, People's Republic of China. It is Fujian's largest most populous metropolitan region, wi ...
(), which was known as ''Zayton'' in Europe and Arab countries during the
Yuan dynasty The Yuan dynasty ( ; zh, c=元朝, p=Yuáncháo), officially the Great Yuan (; Mongolian language, Mongolian: , , literally 'Great Yuan State'), was a Mongol-led imperial dynasty of China and a successor state to the Mongol Empire after Div ...
(13th–14th century). During that period, Quanzhou was visited by Arab merchants and by
Europeans Europeans are the focus of European ethnology, the field of anthropology related to the various ethnic groups that reside in the states of Europe. Groups may be defined by common ancestry, language, faith, historical continuity, etc. There are ...
. The Arabs referred to silk satin imported from Quanzhou as . During the latter part of the Middle Ages, Quanzhou was a major shipping port of silk, using the
Maritime Silk Road The Maritime Silk Road or Maritime Silk Route is the maritime section of the historic Silk Road that connected Southeast Asia, East Asia, the Indian subcontinent, the Arabian Peninsula, eastern Africa, and Europe. It began by the 2nd century BCE ...
to reach Europe. It was mostly used in the
Arab world The Arab world ( '), formally the Arab homeland ( '), also known as the Arab nation ( '), the Arabsphere, or the Arab states, comprises a large group of countries, mainly located in West Asia and North Africa. While the majority of people in ...
.


Types of satin weave

Satin-weave fabrics are more flexible, with better draping characteristics than plain weaves. In a satin weave, the fill yarn passes over multiple warp yarns before interlacing under one warp yarn. Common satin weaves are: * 4-harness satin weave (4HS), also called
crowfoot satin Crowfoot (c. 1830 – 25 April 1890) or Isapo-Muxika (; Blackfoot language#Writing system, syllabics: ) was a chief of the Siksika Nation, Siksika. His father, (Packs a Knife), and mother, (Attacked Towards Home), were Kainai. He was five yea ...
, in which the fill yarn passes over three warp yarns and under one warp yarn. It is more pliable than a plain weave. * 5-harness satin weave (5HS); the fill yarn passes over four warp yarns and then under one warp yarn. * 8-harness satin weave (8HS), in which the fill yarn passes over seven warp yarns and then under one warp yarn, is the most pliable satin weave.


Types of satin

*
Antique satin An antique () is an item perceived as having value because of its aesthetic or historical significance, and often defined as at least 100 years old (or some other limit), although the term is often used loosely to describe any object that i ...
– is a type of satin-back
shantung Shandong is a coastal province in East China. Shandong has played a major role in Chinese history since the beginning of Chinese civilization along the lower reaches of the Yellow River. It has served as a pivotal cultural and religious center ...
, woven with slubbed or unevenly spun weft yarns. * Baronet or baronette – has a cotton back and a rayon or silk front, similar to
georgette Georgette is a feminine given name, the French form of (''Geōrgia''), the feminine form of George. Georgette may refer to: People * Georgette Barry (1919–2003), stage name Andrea King, American actress * Georgette Bauerdorf (1924–1944), Am ...
. *
Charmeuse Charmeuse (; ; ) is a lightweight fabric woven with a satin weave. These float threads give the front of the fabric a smooth, shiny finish, whereas the back has a dull finish. Charmeuse differs from plain satin in that charmeuse has a different r ...
– is a lightweight, draping satin-weave fabric with a dull reverse. *
Cuttanee Cuttanee (also called cotonis, cuttance, or cutance) was a fine heavy and stout silk and cotton satin of East India, formerly produced for export, with bright coloured woven stripes and sometimes floral designs, used for quilts and upholstery. It ...
– fine heavy and stout silk and cotton satin * Double face(d) – satin is woven with a glossy surface on both sides. It is possible for both sides to have a different pattern, albeit using the same colours. *
Duchesse Duchesse (Duchesse satin) was a soft, heavy, and glossy satin cloth made in France. Weave Duchesse was produced with a satin A satin weave is a type of Textile, fabric weave that produces a characteristically glossy, smooth or lustro ...
satin – is a particularly luxurious, heavy, stiff satin. * Faconne – is
jacquard woven The Jacquard machine () is a device fitted to a loom that simplifies the process of manufacturing textiles with such complex patterns as brocade, damask and matelassé. The resulting ensemble of the loom and Jacquard machine is then called a Jac ...
satin. * Farmer's satin or Venetian cloth – is made from
mercerised cotton Mercerisation is a textile finishing treatment for cellulose fabric and yarn, mainly cotton and flax, which improves dye uptake and tear strength, reduces fabric shrinkage, and imparts a silk-like luster. Development The process was ...
. * Gattar – is satin made with a silk warp and a cotton weft. * Messaline – is lightweight and loosely woven. * Polysatin or poly-satin – is an abbreviated term for polyester satin. * Slipper satin – is stiff and medium- to heavy-weight fabric. * Sultan – is a
worsted Worsted ( or ) is a high-quality type of wool yarn, the fabric made from this yarn, and a yarn weight category. The name derives from Worstead (from Old English ''Wurðestede'', "enclosure place"), a village in the English county of Norfolk. T ...
fabric with a satin face. * Surf satin – was a 1910s American trademark for a
taffeta Taffeta (archaically spelled taffety or taffata) is a crisp, smooth, plain woven fabric made from silk, nylon, cuprammonium rayons, acetate, or polyester. The word came into Middle English via Old French and Old Italian, which borrowed the Pers ...
fabric used for
swimsuit A swimsuit is an item of clothing designed to be worn by people engaging in a water-based activity or water sports, such as swimming, diving and surfing, or sun-orientated activities, such as sun bathing. Different types and styles may be worn ...
s.


Uses for satin

Because of the different ways the weave is employed, satin has a range of functions from interior décor to fashion. * Dresses: Satin's drape and shiny texture make it a favorite for evening gowns and bridal gowns. Nowadays, many vendors are using it to make Satin Shirts. * Upholstery: Satin was first used for ornamental furniture in Europe at the Palace of Versailles, and it is still used for pillow covers, chairs, and other forms of cushioned furniture today. * Bed sheets: Satin is frequently used for bed linens because of its flexible and silky texture. * Footwear: Satin is a popular fabric for shoe makers, from ballerina slippers to high heels. * Fashion accessories: Satin is commonly used for evening bags and clutches in the fashion industry. * Crafting: Satin in the form of ribbons is very common for crafting various products such as rosette leis, corsage, and even decorative flowers.


References


Bibliography

* *


External links

* * {{Authority control Woven fabrics Weaves