Riccardo Tisci
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Riccardo Tisci (; born 1974) is an Italian
fashion design Fashion design is the art of applying design, aesthetics, clothing construction and natural beauty to clothing and its accessories. It is influenced by culture and different trends, and has varied over time and place. "A fashion designer creates c ...
er. He studied in Italy at the Design Istituto d’Arte Applicata in Cantù until the age of 17, and then graduated from London's
Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design Central Saint Martins is a public tertiary art school in London, England. It is a constituent college of the University of the Arts London. It offers full-time courses at foundation, undergraduate and postgraduate levels, and a variety of sho ...
in 1999. In 2005, Tisci was given the title of creative director for
Givenchy Givenchy (, ) is a French luxury fashion and perfume house. It hosts the brand of haute couture and ready-to-wear clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics of Parfums Givenchy. The house of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de ...
Women's haute couture and
ready-to-wear Ready-to-wear (or ''prêt-à-porter''; abbreviated RTW; "off-the-rack" or "off-the-peg" in casual use) is the term for ready-made garments, sold in finished condition in standardized sizes, as distinct from made-to-measure or bespoke clothi ...
lines. In May 2008 he was additionally named as menswear and accessories designer of the Givenchy men's division. In March 2018, it was announced he had been appointed chief creative officer of
Burberry Burberry is a British luxury fashion house established in 1856 by Thomas Burberry headquartered in London, England. It currently designs and distributes ready to wear, including trench coats (for which it is most famous), leather accessor ...
, succeeding Christopher Bailey. Tisci's apparent fascination with Gothic touches (dark, languid dresses for fall couture) and space-age minimalism (one ready-to-wear show featured white-clad models drifting around a sterile-white sphere) has drawn new attention to the Givenchy brand. Reviews and output so far have been mixed and inconsistent, but many, including influential fashion critics (such as Cathy Horyn of ''
The New York Times ''The New York Times'' (''the Times'', ''NYT'', or the Gray Lady) is a daily newspaper based in New York City with a worldwide readership reported in 2020 to comprise a declining 840,000 paid print subscribers, and a growing 6 million paid ...
'' and
Suzy Menkes Suzy Peta Menkes (born 24 December 1943) is a British journalist and fashion critic. Formerly the fashion editor for the International Herald Tribune, Menkes also served as editor, Vogue International, for 25 international editions of '' Vogue ...
of the '' International Herald Tribune'') have honed in on Tisci's conceptual leanings, as well as his future potential for revitalizing the Givenchy brand and infusing it with his precision and imagination.


Early life and education

Tisci was born in
Taranto Taranto (, also ; ; nap, label=Tarantino dialect, Tarantino, Tarde; Latin: Tarentum; Old Italian: ''Tarento''; Ancient Greek: Τάρᾱς) is a coastal city in Apulia, Southern Italy. It is the capital of the Province of Taranto, serving as an ...
and raised in
Como Como (, ; lmo, Còmm, label=Comasco , or ; lat, Novum Comum; rm, Com; french: Côme) is a city and ''comune'' in Lombardy, Italy. It is the administrative capital of the Province of Como. Its proximity to Lake Como and to the Alps has m ...
. He graduated from
London London is the capital and List of urban areas in the United Kingdom, largest city of England and the United Kingdom, with a population of just under 9 million. It stands on the River Thames in south-east England at the head of a estuary dow ...
's
Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design Central Saint Martins is a public tertiary art school in London, England. It is a constituent college of the University of the Arts London. It offers full-time courses at foundation, undergraduate and postgraduate levels, and a variety of sho ...
in 1999.


Career


Early beginnings

Upon graduation, Tisci worked for companies such as
Puma Puma or PUMA may refer to: Animals * ''Puma'' (genus), a genus in the family Felidae ** Puma (species) or cougar, a large cat Businesses and organisations * Puma (brand), a multinational shoe and sportswear company * Puma Energy, a mid- and d ...
, Antonio Berardi and Coccapani before signing a three-year contract with Ruffo Research, a company that has helped launch the careers of several fashion designers, such as
Sophia Kokosalaki Sophia Kokosalaki ( el, Σοφία Κοκοσαλάκη; 3 November 1972 – 13 October 2019) was a Greek fashion designer based in London.Tamsin Blanchard, 'Sophia Kokosalaki hooks up with Asos', ''The Daily Telegraph'', January 21, 201/ref> ...
. Tisci has mentioned in an interview that he would like to work with an Iranian brand, although it is not known how realistic his wish is. Upon the expiration of his contract in July 2004, Tisci spent time living in India, where he began to work on his own collection. In September 2004, during the
Milan Milan ( , , Lombard language, Lombard: ; it, Milano ) is a city in northern Italy, capital of Lombardy, and the List of cities in Italy, second-most populous city proper in Italy after Rome. The city proper has a population of about 1.4  ...
Fashion Week, Tisci debuted his first Riccardo Tisci Collection for Fall 2005/2006 in an off-calendar show.


Givenchy, 2005–2017

In February 2005, Tisci was appointed as the creative director of the haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories lines for
Givenchy Givenchy (, ) is a French luxury fashion and perfume house. It hosts the brand of haute couture and ready-to-wear clothing, accessories, perfumes and cosmetics of Parfums Givenchy. The house of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de ...
. Brought to Givenchy by LVMH COO Antonio Belloni and Givenchy CEO Marco Gobbetti, Gobbetti called Tisci a "perfect fit for us... He iscihas an elegance that is very modern, very contemporary and romantic at the same time". Tisci presented his first Givenchy haute couture collection in July 2005 during the Fashion Week in Paris. Tisci, under Givenchy, designed the costumes for Madonna's '' Sticky & Sweet Tour'' in 2008, following
Jean Paul Gaultier Jean Paul Gaultier (; born 24 April 1952) is a French haute couture and prêt-à-porter fashion designer. He is described as an " enfant terrible" of the fashion industry and is known for his unconventional designs with motifs including cors ...
and
Dolce & Gabbana Dolce & Gabbana (), also known by initials D&G, is an Italian luxury fashion house founded in 1985 in Legnano by Italian designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. The house specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, accessories, and cos ...
. In 2009, for the encore of the tour he designed another costume for the tour's opening song ''Candy Shop''. In February 2017 Tisci stepped down as creative director of Givenchy, "I now wish to focus on my personal interests and passions."


Burberry, 2018–present

In 2018, Tisci was named by
Burberry Burberry is a British luxury fashion house established in 1856 by Thomas Burberry headquartered in London, England. It currently designs and distributes ready to wear, including trench coats (for which it is most famous), leather accessor ...
to replace Christopher Bailey as the brand's chief creative officer. His tenure lasted through to September 2022 when it was announced that Tisci would be replaced at the helm of Burberry's creative efforts by English designer Daniel Lee.


Style

Unlike the designers before him who succeeded Mr. Givenchy himself, Tisci has had particular success in haute couture, where he asserts "When I arrived we had five customers. Now we have 29". Riccardo Tisci's runway presentations are highly stylized in terms of architecture and space. Tisci says of this: "My way of showing is very melancholic... I love romanticism and sensuality". For the Givenchy Fall-Winter 2010 collection, he included a new model,
Lea T Leandra Medeiros Cerezo, known professionally as Lea T (born 19 February 1981), is a Brazilian-born, Italian-raised transgender fashion model. She has been called the "muse" of Riccardo Tisci, chief creative officer of British luxury brand Burb ...
, a transgender woman from Brazil, his longtime personal assistant.


Collaborations

Throughout his career, Tisci's numerous connections and relationships have enabled him to collaborate with well-known artists on various projects: * 2008—Was invited to curate the issue 8 of A-Anna Magazine curated by. * 2010—Celebrated the end of the exhibit ''The artist is present'' at a dinner for
Marina Abramović Marina Abramović ( sr-Cyrl, Марина Абрамовић, ; born November 30, 1946) is a Serbian conceptual and performance artist. Her work explores body art, endurance art, feminist art, the relationship between the performer and aud ...
; afterwards, she was chosen to appear in a campaign for Spring-Summer 2013 of Givenchy. * 2011—Guest-edited Visionaire's RELIGION issue. * 2011—Collaborated with the perfumer Francois Demachy to make the perfume Le Dahlia Noir. * 2011—Curated issue #8 of A Magazine, in which he featured artwork by
Ray Caesar Ray Caesar (born October 26, 1958) is an English digital surreal artist who lives and works in Arcadia, Canada. Early life Ray spent 17 years working in the Art & Photography Department of the Hospital For Sick Children in Toronto, in their ar ...
as a source of his creative inspiration. * 2013—Dressed the singer
Rihanna Robyn Rihanna Fenty ( ; born February 20, 1988) is a Barbadian singer, actress, and businesswoman. Born in Saint Michael and raised in Bridgetown, Barbados, Rihanna auditioned for American record producer Evan Rogers who invited her to t ...
for her Diamond World Tour. * 2014—Collaborated with Beyoncé and Jay-Z for the On the Run Tour. * 2014—Collaborated with Nike to create a series of Air Force 1 shoes. * 2016—Launched a 30 piece sportswear collaboration with Nike called NikeLab x RT: Training Redefined, aimed at Olympic athletes for the 2016 Summer Olympics as everyday gym users. * 2018—Collaborated with NikeLab again, creating a fictional basketball team's apparel and footwear. In addition to his position at Givenchy, Tisci has collaborated with the choreographers
Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui (born 1976) is a Belgian dancer and choreographer and director. He has made over 50 choreographic pieces and received two Laurence Olivier Award for Best New Dance Production, three Ballet Tanz awards for best choreographe ...
and Damien Jalet on the costume design of the orchestral ballet Boléro by
Maurice Ravel Joseph Maurice Ravel (7 March 1875 – 28 December 1937) was a French composer, pianist and conductor. He is often associated with Impressionism along with his elder contemporary Claude Debussy, although both composers rejected the term. In ...
at the Opéra Garnier. Italian model Mariacarla Boscono often appears in his runway shows and ad campaigns, owing possibly to the fact that Tisci has had a friendship with her since before his days at Givenchy. Tisci also collaborated with American rappers Jay-Z and
Kanye West Ye ( ; born Kanye Omari West ; June 8, 1977) is an American rapper, singer, songwriter, record producer, and fashion designer. Born in Atlanta and raised in Chicago, West gained recognition as a producer for Roc-A-Fella Records in the ea ...
to create the cover for ''
Watch the Throne ''Watch the Throne'' is a collaborative studio album by American rappers Jay-Z and Kanye West, collectively known as The Throne. It was released on August 8, 2011, through Roc-A-Fella Records, Roc Nation, and Def Jam Recordings. Prior to th ...
'', as well as the covers for singles
H•A•M "H•A•M" is a song by American rappers Jay-Z and Kanye West. It was released as the first single from their collaborative studio album ''Watch the Throne'' on January 11, 2011. It was produced by Lexus "Lex Luger" Lewis and Kanye West. The so ...
and Otis. He has now recently collaborated again with
Kanye West Ye ( ; born Kanye Omari West ; June 8, 1977) is an American rapper, singer, songwriter, record producer, and fashion designer. Born in Atlanta and raised in Chicago, West gained recognition as a producer for Roc-A-Fella Records in the ea ...
for his label
GOOD Music GOOD Music (also known simply as GOOD, stylized as G.O.O.D. Music; a backronym for Getting Out Our Dreams) is an American record label founded by rapper Kanye West in 2004. The label signed an exclusive long-term worldwide label agreement with t ...
on their album '' Cruel Summer''.


References


External links


GIVENCHY Official Site
*
A MAGAZINE curated by Riccardo Tisci

A BLOG curated by Riccardo Tisci
{{DEFAULTSORT:Tisci, Riccardo Living people 1974 births Italian fashion designers Alumni of Central Saint Martins People from Taranto Burberry people