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Ray Jardine (born in 1944) is an American rock climber who, along with Bill Price, in May 1979, was the first to free climb the ''West Face'' of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley. Jardine is also a mountaineer, sea kayaker, sailor, hang glider pilot, sailplane pilot, small aircraft pilot, skydiver, long-distance hiker, bicyclist, motorcyclist, and gear designer. Jardine is noted for inventing and developing the spring-loaded camming devices called Friends with the late
Mark Vallance Mark Vallance (1946 – 19 April 2018) was a British rock climber, mountaineer and founder of Wild Country, a climbing equipment company. He was instrumental in the design and development of a range of new equipment. American climber Ray Jardine ...
, which revolutionized rock climbing in the late 1970s. He is also noted for his major contributions to the ultralight backpacking community through his books and his "make-it-yourself" gear company, Ray-Way Products.


Early life

Born in Colorado Springs, Colorado, as a youth, Jardine climbed Colorado's Pikes Peak dozens of times, mostly solo, and with the Boy Scouts of America. In 1959, Jardine achieved Eagle Scout (Boy Scouts of America). During his Junior and Senior years (1959-1961) at General William J. Palmer High School in Colorado Springs, Jardine competed in Gymnastics on the Trampoline. He worked part-time after school at his family's plumbing business. In 1963, at the age of 19, Jardine took a summer job in Yellowstone National Park, and enrolled in his first rock climbing class with instructor Barry Corbet (member of the 1963 Mount Everest expedition), in Grand Teton National Park. In the fall of that year, Jardine enrolled at Northrop University in Los Angeles, California. During the three years of his formal education at Northrop, Jardine worked evenings as a draftsman at
North American Aviation North American Aviation (NAA) was a major American aerospace manufacturer that designed and built several notable aircraft and spacecraft. Its products included: the T-6 Texan trainer, the P-51 Mustang fighter, the B-25 Mitchell bomber, the F ...
in Los Angeles, California. In the spring of 1967 Jardine graduated from Northrop University with a degree in
Aerospace Engineering Aerospace engineering is the primary field of engineering concerned with the development of aircraft and spacecraft. It has two major and overlapping branches: aeronautical engineering and astronautical engineering. Avionics engineering is si ...
.


Professional life

Immediately following his graduation from Northrop University in 1967, Jardine was hired by
Martin Marietta The Martin Marietta Corporation was an American company founded in 1961 through the merger of Glenn L. Martin Company and American-Marietta Corporation. In 1995, it merged with Lockheed Corporation to form Lockheed Martin. History Martin Mari ...
as a specialist in computer-simulated space-flight mechanics, shaping trajectories for earth satellite and interplanetary missions.


Colorado rock climbing

He began his climbing career in 1963 in the Tetons and climbed in Eldorado Canyon State Park near
Boulder, Colorado Boulder is a home rule city that is the county seat and most populous municipality of Boulder County, Colorado, United States. The city population was 108,250 at the 2020 United States census, making it the 12th most populous city in Color ...
during the 1960s.


Yosemite rock climbing

Jardine became active in Yosemite around 1970. During the 1970s he pioneered a number of Yosemite routes harder than had been done before, up to the grade of 5.13, including the first ascent of The Phoenix (5.13a) in 1977. After chipping holds while attempting to free " The Nose" (now referred to as Jardine Traverse), Jardine was ostracized from the climbing community and is likely the most vilified climber in Yosemite climbing history.


Sailing and SCUBA

In 1982, Ray and his wife Jenny sailed around the world in three years aboard their 41-foot ketch ''Suka'' (an acronym for "Seeking UnKnown Adventures"). During the voyage, they spent six months scuba diving and snorkeling in the
Caribbean The Caribbean (, ) ( es, El Caribe; french: la Caraïbe; ht, Karayib; nl, De Caraïben) is a region of the Americas that consists of the Caribbean Sea, its islands (some surrounded by the Caribbean Sea and some bordering both the Caribbean Se ...
. Ray is a Professional Association of Diving Instructors (PADI) certified diver.


Light-weight hiking enthusiast

In 1991 he discussed ideas related to backpacking with the publication of his ''PCT Hikers Handbook'', which described hiking the entire Pacific Crest Trail in a much shorter time, using homemade lightweight gear and techniques including early start times with longer days and more mileage at a slower pace. The book was revised and retitled in 1999 as ''Beyond Backpacking'', and revised and retitled again in 2009 as ''Trail Life''. In 1998, according to former
GoLite GoLite is an outdoor hiking and backpacking gear company that relaunched as an apparel manufacturer under new ownership in 2018. Humanitarian and environmental initiatives are a key part of the new ownership. As of 2018, GoLite has donated 14,000 ...
owner Kim Coupounas, it was Ray Jardine designed the original 12 lightweight backpacking products offered by the startup company, who had a royalty arrangement with Jardine in its early years.


Antarctica: Skiing to the South Pole

Starting on November 11, 2006 at the
Patriot Hills Base Camp Patriot Hills Base Camp was a private seasonally occupied camp in Antarctica. It was located in the Heritage Range of the Ellsworth Mountains, next to the Patriot Hills that gave it its name. The camp was run by the private company Adventure Ne ...
on Antarctica, Ray and his wife Jenny skied to the South Pole. They pulled sleds containing their gear and supplies. They traveled for 57 days and covered 750 miles and reached the South Pole on January 8, 2007.


See also

*
History of rock climbing In the history of rock climbing, the three main sub-disciplines: bouldering, single-pitch climbing, and big wall (or multi-pitch) climbing can trace their origins to late 19th-century Europe. Bouldering started in Fontainebleau, and was advance ...
* List of first ascents (sport climbing)


References


External links


Ray Jardine homepage

Friends History
{{DEFAULTSORT:Jardine, Ray American rock climbers 1944 births Living people Hikers Northrop University alumni