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fluid dynamics In physics, physical chemistry and engineering, fluid dynamics is a subdiscipline of fluid mechanics that describes the flow of fluids – liquids and gases. It has several subdisciplines, including (the study of air and other gases in motion ...
, the radiation stress is the depth-integrated – and thereafter
phase Phase or phases may refer to: Science *State of matter, or phase, one of the distinct forms in which matter can exist *Phase (matter), a region of space throughout which all physical properties are essentially uniform *Phase space, a mathematica ...
-
average In colloquial, ordinary language, an average is a single number or value that best represents a set of data. The type of average taken as most typically representative of a list of numbers is the arithmetic mean the sum of the numbers divided by ...
d – excess momentum flux caused by the presence of the surface gravity waves, which is exerted on the mean flow. The radiation stresses behave as a second-order
tensor In mathematics, a tensor is an algebraic object that describes a multilinear relationship between sets of algebraic objects associated with a vector space. Tensors may map between different objects such as vectors, scalars, and even other ...
. The radiation stress tensor describes the additional forcing due to the presence of the waves, which changes the mean depth-integrated horizontal
momentum In Newtonian mechanics, momentum (: momenta or momentums; more specifically linear momentum or translational momentum) is the product of the mass and velocity of an object. It is a vector quantity, possessing a magnitude and a direction. ...
in the fluid layer. As a result, varying radiation stresses induce changes in the mean surface elevation ( wave setup) and the mean flow (wave-induced currents). For the mean
energy density In physics, energy density is the quotient between the amount of energy stored in a given system or contained in a given region of space and the volume of the system or region considered. Often only the ''useful'' or extractable energy is measure ...
in the oscillatory part of the fluid motion, the radiation stress tensor is important for its dynamics, in case of an
inhomogeneous Homogeneity and heterogeneity are concepts relating to the uniformity of a substance, process or image. A homogeneous feature is uniform in composition or character (i.e., color, shape, size, weight, height, distribution, texture, language, i ...
mean-flow field. The radiation stress tensor, as well as several of its implications on the physics of surface gravity waves and mean flows, were formulated in a series of papers by Longuet-Higgins and Stewart in 1960–1964. Radiation stress derives its name from the analogous effect of
radiation pressure Radiation pressure (also known as light pressure) is mechanical pressure exerted upon a surface due to the exchange of momentum between the object and the electromagnetic field. This includes the momentum of light or electromagnetic radiation of ...
for
electromagnetic radiation In physics, electromagnetic radiation (EMR) is a self-propagating wave of the electromagnetic field that carries momentum and radiant energy through space. It encompasses a broad spectrum, classified by frequency or its inverse, wavelength ...
.


Physical significance

The radiation stress – mean excess momentum-flux due to the presence of the waves – plays an important role in the explanation and modeling of various coastal processes: * ''Wave setup'' and ''setdown'' – the radiation stress consists in part of a
radiation pressure Radiation pressure (also known as light pressure) is mechanical pressure exerted upon a surface due to the exchange of momentum between the object and the electromagnetic field. This includes the momentum of light or electromagnetic radiation of ...
, exerted at the
free surface In physics, a free surface is the surface of a fluid that is subject to zero parallel shear stress, such as the interface between two homogeneous fluids. An example of two such homogeneous fluids would be a body of water (liquid) and the air in ...
elevation of the mean flow. If the radiation stress varies spatially, as it does in the
surf zone The surf zone or breaker zone is the nearshore part of a body of open water between the line at which the waves break and the shore. As ocean surface waves approach a shore, they interact with the bottom, wave shoaling, get taller and steeper, an ...
where the
wave height In fluid dynamics, the wave height of a surface wave is the difference between the elevations of a crest and a neighboring trough. ''Wave height'' is a term used by mariners, as well as in coastal, ocean and naval engineering. At sea, the ...
reduces by wave breaking, this results in changes of the mean surface elevation called wave setup (in case of an increased level) and setdown (for a decreased water level); * ''Wave-driven current'', especially a ''longshore current'' in the surf zone – for oblique incidence of waves on a beach, the reduction in wave height inside the surf zone (by breaking) introduces a variation of the shear-stress component ''S''''xy'' of the radiation stress over the width of the surf zone. This provides the forcing of a wave-driven longshore current, which is of importance for
sediment transport Sediment transport is the movement of solid particles (sediment), typically due to a combination of gravity acting on the sediment, and the movement of the fluid in which the sediment is entrained. Sediment transport occurs in natural systems wh ...
(
longshore drift Longshore drift from longshore current is a geological process that consists of the transportation of sediments (clay, silt, pebbles, sand, shingle, shells) along a coast parallel to the shoreline, which is dependent on the angle of incoming w ...
) and the resulting coastal
morphology Morphology, from the Greek and meaning "study of shape", may refer to: Disciplines *Morphology (archaeology), study of the shapes or forms of artifacts *Morphology (astronomy), study of the shape of astronomical objects such as nebulae, galaxies, ...
; * ''Bound long waves'' or ''forced long waves'', part of the
infragravity wave Infragravity waves are surface gravity waves with frequencies lower than the wind waves – consisting of both wind sea and swell – thus corresponding with the part of the wave spectrum lower than the frequencies directly generated by forcing ...
s – for wave groups the radiation stress varies along the group. As a result, a non-linear long wave propagates together with the group, at the
group velocity The group velocity of a wave is the velocity with which the overall envelope shape of the wave's amplitudes—known as the ''modulation'' or ''envelope (waves), envelope'' of the wave—propagates through space. For example, if a stone is thro ...
of the modulated short waves within the group. While, according to the
dispersion relation In the physical sciences and electrical engineering, dispersion relations describe the effect of dispersion on the properties of waves in a medium. A dispersion relation relates the wavelength or wavenumber of a wave to its frequency. Given the ...
, a long wave of this length should propagate at its own – higher –
phase velocity The phase velocity of a wave is the rate at which the wave propagates in any medium. This is the velocity at which the phase of any one frequency component of the wave travels. For such a component, any given phase of the wave (for example, t ...
. The
amplitude The amplitude of a periodic variable is a measure of its change in a single period (such as time or spatial period). The amplitude of a non-periodic signal is its magnitude compared with a reference value. There are various definitions of am ...
of this bound long wave varies with the
square In geometry, a square is a regular polygon, regular quadrilateral. It has four straight sides of equal length and four equal angles. Squares are special cases of rectangles, which have four equal angles, and of rhombuses, which have four equal si ...
of the wave height, and is only significant in shallow water; * '' Wave–current interaction'' – in varying mean-flow
fields Fields may refer to: Music *Fields (band), an indie rock band formed in 2006 * Fields (progressive rock band), a progressive rock band formed in 1971 * ''Fields'' (album), an LP by Swedish-based indie rock band Junip (2010) * "Fields", a song by ...
, the energy exchanges between the waves and the mean flow, as well as the mean-flow forcing, can be modeled by means of the radiation stress.


Definitions and values derived from linear wave theory


One-dimensional wave propagation

For uni-directional wave propagation – say in the ''x''-coordinate direction – the component of the radiation stress tensor of dynamical importance is ''S''xx. It is defined as:Mei (2003), p. 457. :S_ = \overline - \frac12 \rho g \left( h + \overline \right)^2, where ''p''(''x'',''z'',''t'') is the fluid
pressure Pressure (symbol: ''p'' or ''P'') is the force applied perpendicular to the surface of an object per unit area over which that force is distributed. Gauge pressure (also spelled ''gage'' pressure)The preferred spelling varies by country and eve ...
, \tilde(x,z,t) is the horizontal ''x''-component of the oscillatory part of the
flow velocity In continuum mechanics the flow velocity in fluid dynamics, also macroscopic velocity in statistical mechanics, or drift velocity in electromagnetism, is a vector field used to mathematically describe the motion of a continuum. The length of the f ...
vector Vector most often refers to: * Euclidean vector, a quantity with a magnitude and a direction * Disease vector, an agent that carries and transmits an infectious pathogen into another living organism Vector may also refer to: Mathematics a ...
, ''z'' is the vertical coordinate, ''t'' is time, ''z'' = −''h''(''x'') is the bed elevation of the fluid layer, and ''z'' = ''η''(''x'',''t'') is the surface elevation. Further ''ρ'' is the fluid
density Density (volumetric mass density or specific mass) is the ratio of a substance's mass to its volume. The symbol most often used for density is ''ρ'' (the lower case Greek letter rho), although the Latin letter ''D'' (or ''d'') can also be u ...
and ''g'' is the acceleration by gravity, while an overbar denotes
phase Phase or phases may refer to: Science *State of matter, or phase, one of the distinct forms in which matter can exist *Phase (matter), a region of space throughout which all physical properties are essentially uniform *Phase space, a mathematica ...
averaging In ordinary language, an average is a single number or value that best represents a set of data. The type of average taken as most typically representative of a list of numbers is the arithmetic mean the sum of the numbers divided by how many nu ...
. The last term on the right-hand side, ''ρg''(''h''+')2, is the
integral In mathematics, an integral is the continuous analog of a Summation, sum, which is used to calculate area, areas, volume, volumes, and their generalizations. Integration, the process of computing an integral, is one of the two fundamental oper ...
of the
hydrostatic pressure Hydrostatics is the branch of fluid mechanics that studies fluids at hydrostatic equilibrium and "the pressure in a fluid or exerted by a fluid on an immersed body". The word "hydrostatics" is sometimes used to refer specifically to water and o ...
over the still-water depth. To lowest (second) order, the radiation stress ''S''xx for traveling periodic waves can be determined from the properties of surface gravity waves according to
Airy wave theory In fluid dynamics, Airy wave theory (often referred to as linear wave theory) gives a linear system, linearised description of the wave propagation, propagation of gravity waves on the surface of a homogeneous fluid layer. The theory assumes that t ...
:Mei (2003), p. 97. :S_ = \left( 2 \frac - \frac12 \right) E, where ''c''p is the
phase speed The phase velocity of a wave is the rate at which the wave propagates in any medium. This is the velocity at which the phase of any one frequency component of the wave travels. For such a component, any given phase of the wave (for example, ...
and ''c''g is the group speed of the waves. Further ''E'' is the mean depth-integrated wave energy density (the sum of the kinetic and
potential energy In physics, potential energy is the energy of an object or system due to the body's position relative to other objects, or the configuration of its particles. The energy is equal to the work done against any restoring forces, such as gravity ...
) per unit of horizontal area. From the results of Airy wave theory, to second order, the mean energy density ''E'' equals: :E = \frac12 \rho g a^2 = \frac18 \rho g H^2, with ''a'' the wave
amplitude The amplitude of a periodic variable is a measure of its change in a single period (such as time or spatial period). The amplitude of a non-periodic signal is its magnitude compared with a reference value. There are various definitions of am ...
and ''H'' = 2''a'' the
wave height In fluid dynamics, the wave height of a surface wave is the difference between the elevations of a crest and a neighboring trough. ''Wave height'' is a term used by mariners, as well as in coastal, ocean and naval engineering. At sea, the ...
. Note this equation is for periodic waves: in random waves the
root-mean-square In mathematics, the root mean square (abbrev. RMS, or rms) of a set of values is the square root of the set's mean square. Given a set x_i, its RMS is denoted as either x_\mathrm or \mathrm_x. The RMS is also known as the quadratic mean (denoted ...
wave height ''H''rms should be used with ''H''rms = ''H''m0 / , where ''H''m0 is the
significant wave height In physical oceanography, the significant wave height (SWH, HTSGW or ''H''s) is defined traditionally as the mean ''wave height'' (trough (physics), trough to crest (physics), crest) of the highest third of the ocean surface wave, waves (''H''1/ ...
. Then ''E'' = ''ρgH''m02.


Two-dimensional wave propagation

For wave propagation in two horizontal dimensions the radiation stress \mathbf is a second-order
tensor In mathematics, a tensor is an algebraic object that describes a multilinear relationship between sets of algebraic objects associated with a vector space. Tensors may map between different objects such as vectors, scalars, and even other ...
with components: :\mathbf= \begin S_ & S_ \\ S_ & S_ \end. With, in a
Cartesian coordinate system In geometry, a Cartesian coordinate system (, ) in a plane (geometry), plane is a coordinate system that specifies each point (geometry), point uniquely by a pair of real numbers called ''coordinates'', which are the positive and negative number ...
(''x'',''y'',''z''): : \begin S_ &= \overline - \frac12 \rho g \left( h + \overline \right)^2, \\ S_ &= \overline = S_, \\ S_ &= \overline - \frac12 \rho g \left( h + \overline \right)^2, \end where \tilde and \tilde are the horizontal ''x''- and ''y''-components of the oscillatory part \tilde(x,y,z,t) of the flow velocity vector. To second order – in wave amplitude ''a'' – the components of the radiation stress tensor for progressive periodic waves are: : \begin S_ &= \left \frac \frac + \left( \frac - \frac12 \right) \rightE, \\ S_ &= \left( \frac \frac \right) E = S_, \quad \text \\ S_ &= \left \frac \frac + \left( \frac - \frac12 \right) \rightE, \end where ''k''x and ''k''y are the ''x''- and ''y''-components of the
wavenumber In the physical sciences, the wavenumber (or wave number), also known as repetency, is the spatial frequency of a wave. Ordinary wavenumber is defined as the number of wave cycles divided by length; it is a physical quantity with dimension of ...
vector ''k'', with length ''k'' = , ''k'',  =  and the vector ''k'' perpendicular to the wave crests. The phase and group speeds, ''c''p and ''c''g respectively, are the lengths of the phase and group velocity vectors: ''c''p = , ''c''p, and ''c''g = , ''c''g, .


Dynamical significance

The radiation stress tensor is an important quantity in the description of the phase-averaged dynamical interaction between waves and mean flows. Here, the depth-integrated dynamical conservation equations are given, but – in order to model three-dimensional mean flows forced by or interacting with surface waves – a three-dimensional description of the radiation stress over the fluid layer is needed.


Mass transport velocity

Propagating waves induce a – relatively small – mean mass transport in the wave propagation direction, also called the wave (pseudo)
momentum In Newtonian mechanics, momentum (: momenta or momentums; more specifically linear momentum or translational momentum) is the product of the mass and velocity of an object. It is a vector quantity, possessing a magnitude and a direction. ...
. To lowest order, the wave momentum Mw is, per unit of horizontal area: :\boldsymbol_w = \frac \frac, which is exact for progressive waves of permanent form in
irrotational flow In fluid dynamics, potential flow or irrotational flow refers to a description of a fluid flow with no vorticity in it. Such a description typically arises in the limit of vanishing viscosity, i.e., for an inviscid fluid and with no vorticity pr ...
. Above, ''c''p is the phase speed relative to the mean flow: :c_p = \frac \qquad \text \qquad \sigma=\omega - \boldsymbol\cdot\overline, with ''σ'' the ''intrinsic angular frequency'', as seen by an observer moving with the mean horizontal flow-velocity while ''ω'' is the ''apparent angular frequency'' of an observer at rest (with respect to 'Earth'). The difference ''k''⋅ is the
Doppler shift The Doppler effect (also Doppler shift) is the change in the frequency of a wave in relation to an observer who is moving relative to the source of the wave. The ''Doppler effect'' is named after the physicist Christian Doppler, who described t ...
. The mean horizontal momentum ''M'', also per unit of horizontal area, is the mean value of the integral of momentum over depth: :\boldsymbol = \overline = \rho\, \left( h + \overline \right) \overline + \boldsymbol_w, with v(''x'',''y'',''z'',''t'') the total flow velocity at any point below the free surface ''z'' = ''η''(''x'',''y'',''t''). The mean horizontal momentum ''M'' is also the mean of the depth-integrated horizontal mass flux, and consists of two contributions: one by the mean current and the other (''M''w) is due to the waves. Now the mass transport velocity is defined as: :\overline = \frac = \overline + \frac. Observe that first the depth-integrated horizontal momentum is averaged, before the division by the mean water depth (''h''+') is made.


Mass and momentum conservation


Vector notation

The equation of mean mass conservation is, in
vector notation In mathematics and physics, vector notation is a commonly used notation for representing vectors, which may be Euclidean vectors, or more generally, members of a vector space. For denoting a vector, the common typographic convention is lower ...
:Phillips (1977), pp. 61–63. :\frac\left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \right+ \nabla \cdot \left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline \right= 0, with including the contribution of the wave momentum ''M''w. The equation for the conservation of horizontal mean momentum is: :\frac\left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline \right+ \nabla \cdot \left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline \otimes \overline + \mathbf + \frac12 \rho g (h+\overline)^2\, \mathbf \right= \rho g \left( h + \overline \right) \nabla h + \boldsymbol_w - \boldsymbol_b, where  ⊗  denotes the
tensor product In mathematics, the tensor product V \otimes W of two vector spaces V and W (over the same field) is a vector space to which is associated a bilinear map V\times W \rightarrow V\otimes W that maps a pair (v,w),\ v\in V, w\in W to an element of ...
of with itself, and τw is the mean wind
shear stress Shear stress (often denoted by , Greek alphabet, Greek: tau) is the component of stress (physics), stress coplanar with a material cross section. It arises from the shear force, the component of force vector parallel to the material cross secti ...
at the free surface, while τb is the bed shear stress. Further I is the identity tensor, with components given by the
Kronecker delta In mathematics, the Kronecker delta (named after Leopold Kronecker) is a function of two variables, usually just non-negative integers. The function is 1 if the variables are equal, and 0 otherwise: \delta_ = \begin 0 &\text i \neq j, \\ 1 &\ ...
δij. Note that the right hand side of the momentum equation provides the non-conservative contributions of the bed slope ∇''h'', as well the forcing by the wind and the bed friction. In terms of the horizontal momentum ''M'' the above equations become: : \begin &\frac\left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \right + \nabla \cdot \boldsymbol = 0, \\ &\frac + \nabla \cdot \left \overline \otimes \boldsymbol + \mathbf + \frac12 \rho g (h+\overline)^2\, \mathbf \right = \rho g \left( h + \overline \right) \nabla h + \boldsymbol_w - \boldsymbol_b. \end


Component form in Cartesian coordinates

In a
Cartesian coordinate system In geometry, a Cartesian coordinate system (, ) in a plane (geometry), plane is a coordinate system that specifies each point (geometry), point uniquely by a pair of real numbers called ''coordinates'', which are the positive and negative number ...
, the mass conservation equation becomes: :\frac \left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \right+ \frac \left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline_x \right+ \frac \left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline_y \right= 0, with x and y respectively the ''x'' and ''y'' components of the mass transport velocity . The horizontal momentum equations are: : \begin \frac\left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline_x \right &+ \frac \left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline_x \overline_x + S_ + \frac12 \rho g (h+\overline)^2 \right + \frac \left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline_x \overline_y + S_ \right \\ &= \rho g \left( h + \overline \right) \frac h + \tau_ - \tau_, \\ \frac\left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline_y \right &+ \frac \left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline_y \overline_x + S_ \right + \frac \left \rho \left( h + \overline \right) \overline_y \overline_y + S_ + \frac12 \rho g (h+\overline)^2 \right \\ &= \rho g \left( h + \overline \right) \frac h + \tau_ - \tau_. \end


Energy conservation

For an
inviscid flow In fluid dynamics, inviscid flow is the flow of an ''inviscid fluid'' which is a fluid with zero viscosity. The Reynolds number of inviscid flow approaches infinity as the viscosity approaches zero. When viscous forces are neglected, such as the ...
the mean
mechanical energy In physical sciences, mechanical energy is the sum of macroscopic potential and kinetic energies. The principle of conservation of mechanical energy states that if an isolated system is subject only to conservative forces, then the mechanical ...
of the total flow – that is the sum of the energy of the mean flow and the fluctuating motion – is conserved. However, the mean energy of the fluctuating motion itself is not conserved, nor is the energy of the mean flow. The mean energy ''E'' of the fluctuating motion (the sum of the kinetic and potential energies satisfies:Phillips (1977), pp. 65–66. :\frac + \nabla \cdot \left \left( \overline + \boldsymbol_g \right) E \right+ \mathbf:\left( \nabla \otimes \overline \right) = \boldsymbol_w \cdot \overline - \boldsymbol_b \cdot \overline - \varepsilon, where ":" denotes the double-dot product, and ''ε'' denotes the dissipation of mean mechanical energy (for instance by wave breaking). The term \mathbf:\left( \nabla \otimes \overline \right) is the exchange of energy with the mean motion, due to wave–current interaction. The mean horizontal wave-energy transport ( + cg) ''E'' consists of two contributions: *  ''E'' : the transport of wave energy by the mean flow, and * ''c''g ''E'' : the mean energy transport by the waves themselves, with the
group velocity The group velocity of a wave is the velocity with which the overall envelope shape of the wave's amplitudes—known as the ''modulation'' or ''envelope (waves), envelope'' of the wave—propagates through space. For example, if a stone is thro ...
''c''g as the wave-energy transport velocity. In a Cartesian coordinate system, the above equation for the mean energy ''E'' of the flow fluctuations becomes: : \begin \frac &+ \frac \left \left( \overline_x + c_ \right) E \right + \frac \left \left( \overline_y + c_ \right) E \right \\ &+ S_ \frac + S_ \left( \frac + \frac \right) + S_ \frac \\ &= \left( \tau_ - \tau_ \right) \overline_x + \left( \tau_ - \tau_ \right) \overline_y - \varepsilon. \end So the radiation stress changes the wave energy ''E'' only in case of a spatial-
inhomogeneous Homogeneity and heterogeneity are concepts relating to the uniformity of a substance, process or image. A homogeneous feature is uniform in composition or character (i.e., color, shape, size, weight, height, distribution, texture, language, i ...
current field (x,y).


Notes


References

;Primary sources * * * * ;Further reading * * {{Physical oceanography Physical oceanography Water waves