Qixiong Ruqun
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(), which can also be referred as (), also known as "chest-high ruqun", is a set of attire in , the traditional Chinese clothing worn by the
Han Chinese The Han Chinese, alternatively the Han people, are an East Asian people, East Asian ethnic group native to Greater China. With a global population of over 1.4 billion, the Han Chinese are the list of contemporary ethnic groups, world's la ...
. The is a unique style of (), which is characterized with a high waistline , Chinese skirt. The used in the is generally tied above the bust level. It was worn by women during the
Southern dynasties The Northern and Southern dynasties () was a period of political division in the history of China that lasted from 420 to 589, following the tumultuous era of the Sixteen Kingdoms and the Eastern Jin dynasty. It is sometimes considered as ...
,
Sui dynasty The Sui dynasty ( ) was a short-lived Dynasties of China, Chinese imperial dynasty that ruled from 581 to 618. The re-unification of China proper under the Sui brought the Northern and Southern dynasties era to a close, ending a prolonged peri ...
,
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
and Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period. The style was also revived in the early and middle
Ming dynasty The Ming dynasty, officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 1368 to 1644, following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming was the last imperial dynasty of ...
. Since the
Han dynasty The Han dynasty was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China (202 BC9 AD, 25–220 AD) established by Liu Bang and ruled by the House of Liu. The dynasty was preceded by the short-lived Qin dynasty (221–206 BC ...
and
Jin (Chinese state) Jin (, Old Chinese: ''*''), originally known as Tang (唐), was a major Ancient Chinese states, state during the middle part of the Zhou dynasty, based near the centre of what was then China, on the lands attributed to the legendary Xia dyn ...
, the waist of the skirt has typically been tied on the waist, while in the
Sui dynasty The Sui dynasty ( ) was a short-lived Dynasties of China, Chinese imperial dynasty that ruled from 581 to 618. The re-unification of China proper under the Sui brought the Northern and Southern dynasties era to a close, ending a prolonged peri ...
,
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
and Five Dynasties, the waistband of the dress was much higher, many of which were usually above the chest or under the armpit. Some records of clothing history refer to it as the ''high-waist ruqun''. Later, it was renamed to '','' according to the current inspection and certification by people. The was a typical form of women
hanfu ''Hanfu'' (, lit. "Han Chinese, Han clothing"), also known as ''Hanzhuang'' (), are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an ...
in the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
. The ' of the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
was also introduced in
Korea Korea is a peninsular region in East Asia consisting of the Korean Peninsula, Jeju Island, and smaller islands. Since the end of World War II in 1945, it has been politically Division of Korea, divided at or near the 38th parallel north, 3 ...
during the
Silla period Silla (; Old Korean: 徐羅伐, Yale: Syerapel, RR: ''Seorabeol''; IPA: ) was a Korean kingdom that existed between 57 BCE – 935 CE and was located on the southern and central parts of the Korean Peninsula. Silla, along with Paekje ...
, and was also introduced in
Balhae Balhae,, , ) also rendered as Bohai or Bohea, and called Jin (; ) early on, was a multiethnic kingdom established in 698 by Dae Joyeong (Da Zuorong). It was originally known as the Kingdom of Jin (震, Zhen) until 713 when its name was changed ...
. This form of high-waist skirt which ties to the
chest The thorax (: thoraces or thoraxes) or chest is a part of the anatomy of mammals and other tetrapod animals located between the neck and the abdomen. In insects, crustaceans, and the extinct trilobites, the thorax is one of the three main di ...
can still be seen in the '' chima'' worn in present days
Korean Korean may refer to: People and culture * Koreans, people from the Korean peninsula or of Korean descent * Korean culture * Korean language **Korean alphabet, known as Hangul or Korean **Korean dialects **See also: North–South differences in t ...
women's
hanbok The hanbok () is the traditional clothing of the Koreans, Korean people. The term ''hanbok'' is primarily used by South Koreans; North Koreans refer to the clothes as (). The clothes are also worn in the Korean diaspora. Koryo-saram—ethnic Ko ...
; it is also likely that the current women's hanbok has been derived from the Tang dynasty's high-waisted skirt with a short ''ru'' (襦) or from a later revival of the Tang dynasty fashion. ''Qixiong ruqun'' was also adopted by the Khitan women and continued to be worn in Liao dynasty even after the fall of the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
.


Terminology

The ' was named after its location on its wearer's body. It is distinguished from the ''gaoyao ruqun'' (高腰襦裙; ''high-waisted ruqun)'', which is attached below the chest and above the waist. ''Qiyao ruqun'' (齐腰襦裙; ''waist ruqun'') is tied at the waist while ''qixiong ruqun'' is tied under the armpit. In ancient times, ''ruqun'' dresses for women were not very high waisted, but ruqun dresses with very high waists appeared from the
Northern and Southern dynasties The Northern and Southern dynasties () was a period of political division in the history of China that lasted from 420 to 589, following the tumultuous era of the Sixteen Kingdoms and the Eastern Jin dynasty. It is sometimes considered a ...
to the
Sui dynasty The Sui dynasty ( ) was a short-lived Dynasties of China, Chinese imperial dynasty that ruled from 581 to 618. The re-unification of China proper under the Sui brought the Northern and Southern dynasties era to a close, ending a prolonged peri ...
,
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
and Five Dynasties. Some clothing history records call it the ''high-waisted ruqun'', and it was later changed to ''qixiong ruqun'' according to the current people's examination and certification of it.


History

The first appeared in the
Northern and Southern dynasties The Northern and Southern dynasties () was a period of political division in the history of China that lasted from 420 to 589, following the tumultuous era of the Sixteen Kingdoms and the Eastern Jin dynasty. It is sometimes considered a ...
. The ''qixiong ruqun'' was worn during the
Sui dynasty The Sui dynasty ( ) was a short-lived Dynasties of China, Chinese imperial dynasty that ruled from 581 to 618. The re-unification of China proper under the Sui brought the Northern and Southern dynasties era to a close, ending a prolonged peri ...
,
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
, and Five dynasties, until the
Song dynasty The Song dynasty ( ) was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 960 to 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song, who usurped the throne of the Later Zhou dynasty and went on to conquer the rest of the Fiv ...
, when, upon
Neo-Confucianism Neo-Confucianism (, often shortened to ''lǐxué'' 理學, literally "School of Principle") is a moral, ethical, and metaphysical Chinese philosophy influenced by Confucianism, which originated with Han Yu (768–824) and Li Ao (772–841) i ...
's rise, the fashion of Tang dynasty faded.


Northern and Southern dynasties

Prior to the Putong period (520–527 AD) of the
Liang dynasty The Liang dynasty (), alternatively known as the Southern Liang () or Xiao Liang () in historiography, was an imperial dynasty of China and the third of the four Southern dynasties during the Northern and Southern dynasties period. It was pre ...
, the waistline of the women's
ruqun (;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment ...
were located at the waist. During the
Southern dynasties The Northern and Southern dynasties () was a period of political division in the history of China that lasted from 420 to 589, following the tumultuous era of the Sixteen Kingdoms and the Eastern Jin dynasty. It is sometimes considered as ...
, the women's ''ruqun'' evolved and was tied higher. Their ''ruqun'' belt line became higher and the skirt was attached at the chest level. Their ''ru'' (襦) had open necklines. The ''ru'' (襦) with open neckline started since the Datong period (527–529 AD); prior to that, the collars of the women's ru were designed to be tight-fitting from the Southern Qi dynasty (479–502 AD) to the
Liang dynasty The Liang dynasty (), alternatively known as the Southern Liang () or Xiao Liang () in historiography, was an imperial dynasty of China and the third of the four Southern dynasties during the Northern and Southern dynasties period. It was pre ...
.


Sui and Tang dynasties

During the
Sui dynasty The Sui dynasty ( ) was a short-lived Dynasties of China, Chinese imperial dynasty that ruled from 581 to 618. The re-unification of China proper under the Sui brought the Northern and Southern dynasties era to a close, ending a prolonged peri ...
and
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
, blouses were generally worn as short ''ru'' ( );
banbi (), also known as () and sometimes referred as () or half-beizi (i.e. short-sleeved beizi) before the term beizi eventually came to refer to a long-sleeved beizi in the Song dynasty, and referred as in the Yuan dynasty, is an upper garment it ...
( 半臂) (i.e. short-sleeved upper garment)and ''pibo'' (an accessory which looked like a long shawl) both constituted an integral part of
ruqun (;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment ...
at the time.


Sui dynasty

During the
Sui dynasty The Sui dynasty ( ) was a short-lived Dynasties of China, Chinese imperial dynasty that ruled from 581 to 618. The re-unification of China proper under the Sui brought the Northern and Southern dynasties era to a close, ending a prolonged peri ...
, the dress code of the Han dynasty was revised and a clothing system with the characteristic of the
Han Chinese The Han Chinese, alternatively the Han people, are an East Asian people, East Asian ethnic group native to Greater China. With a global population of over 1.4 billion, the Han Chinese are the list of contemporary ethnic groups, world's la ...
was established. In this period, the ru ( ) with short sleeves became a popular trend for the time. File:Sui Figurines of Musicians - b.jpg, Musicians wearing qixiong ruqun,
Sui dynasty The Sui dynasty ( ) was a short-lived Dynasties of China, Chinese imperial dynasty that ruled from 581 to 618. The re-unification of China proper under the Sui brought the Northern and Southern dynasties era to a close, ending a prolonged peri ...
figurines. File:Dinastia sui, donne da kuche, 581-618 dc ca.jpg, Sui dynasty female attendants wearing qixiong ruqun. File:Sui Painted Pottery Attendant 04.jpg, Sui Painted Pottery Attendant


Tang dynasty

The
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
was the heyday of economic, cultural, artistic and diplomatic history in Chinese history. It also created the characteristics of this dynasty's freedom, gracefulness, and colourful clothing. Tang dynasty people wore short sleeved ''ru'' ( ) and a floor-length
skirt A skirt is the lower part of a dress or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards. At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of fabric (such as pareos). However, most skirts are ...
, but after the heyday of the Tang dynasty, the aristocratic costumes turned to become large and complex. ''Qixiong ruqun'' is a representative costume of the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
and was very popular among Tang dynasty ladies. In the Tang dynasty, ''qixiong ruqun'' was typically worn long a wide-sleeved blouse, long-full skirt, and long silk scarves with painted motifs as part of the set of attire. It was typically worn by noble ladies or female attendants who served in high status households, such as in important families and even the royal family. During the High Tang period, women were less constrained by feudal ideas and wore clothing which would allowed the exposure of
cleavage Cleavage may refer to: Science * Cleavage (crystal), the way in which a crystal or mineral tends to split * Cleavage (embryo), the division of cells in an early embryo * Cleavage (geology), foliation of rock perpendicular to stress, a result of ...
. The traditional form of
ruqun (;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment ...
worn in the previous dynasties was maintained in the Tang dynasty, but the "V" collar of the ''ru'' was deepened to the point that the cleavage was exposed. The skirt waistband being tied at the chest or at the armpits allowed the neck and chest regions to be exposed. When the skirt (
qun (), referred as () prior to the Han dynasty, () and (), and sometimes referred as an apron, is a generic term which refers to the Chinese skirts used in , especially those worn as part of , and in Chinese opera costume. The and its predeces ...
, ), ru ( ), and pibo ( 披帛) are paired together, the woman's grace and temperament in the Tang dynasty were fully presented, showing a poetic beauty and rhythm. The styles of qixiong ruqun with shoulder straps are often found in pottery figurines or paintings unearthed before the Tang dynasty. The ''qixiong ruqun'' with shoulder straps appeared to have been rarely used in China during the Tang dynasty. Until the development of the Kaiyuan ( 开元) period of the Tang dynasty, when the style became fixed under the armpit. The ''ru'' ( ) neckline varied, and the most popular one was
daxiushan (), also referred as (), (), (), is a form of , a traditional Chinese upper garment, with broad sleeves in . It was most popular during the Tang dynasty, particularly among the members of royalty. The was mainly worn for special ceremonial o ...
( 大袖衫), which was full of the spirit of the people's ideological emancipation during the Tang dynasty. There were variety of skirts during the Tang dynasty. At the beginning of the Tang dynasty, the skirts were narrow but became looser in the High Tang period. The style of the skirt is stitched with four fabrics, the upper part is narrow, the lower part is loose, and the hem hangs down to the ground. Silk is used at the waist of the skirt, and laces are sewn at both ends. Skirt (qun; ) fabrics were mainly silk fabrics. The more expensive the materials, the better. The design of the waist of the skirt was much improved. The dresses of this period are brightly coloured, the most popular of which were dark red, purple, moon green, grass green, etc. For example: # Striped skirt (''jianqun''): High-waisted striped skirts became mainstream since the Northern dynasties and lasted until the Sui-Tang dynasties. #Pomegranate skirt (''Shiliuqun:'' 石榴裙): the colour pomegranate red was famous for the longest time. # ''Bainiao skirt:''
Emperor Zhongzong of Tang Emperor Zhongzong of Tang (26 November 656 – 3 July 710), personal name Li Xian, and at other times Li Zhe or Wu Xian, was the fourth and seventh emperor of the Tang dynasty of China, ruling briefly in 684 and again from 705 to 710. During ...
’s daughter,
Princess Anle Princess Anle (; 684? – 21 July 710), personal name Li Guo'er (), was a Chinese princess of the Tang dynasty. She was the youngest daughter of Emperor Zhongzong and his wife Empress Wei. Popular history holds that she was doted upon heavily ...
, had a skirt made up of the feathers of many types of birds, called ''bainiao skirt'' (qun ), which can be called a famous work in the history of Chinese weaving. The colour of the skirt changed accordingly to sunlight, #
Zhou dynasty The Zhou dynasty ( ) was a royal dynasty of China that existed for 789 years from until 256 BC, the longest span of any dynasty in Chinese history. During the Western Zhou period (771 BC), the royal house, surnamed Ji, had military ...
's bell skirt: A skirt which was decorated with twelve bells at the four corners of the dress. When people walked, they made a "jingle" noise, which was seen as very graceful and beautiful. Many unearthed cultural relics and antique paintings have record of the ''qixiong ruqun''. For example, the famous picture
Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk ''Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk'' is a silk painting attributed to Emperor Huizong of the Song dynasty. It is the only extant copy of a lost original ''Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk'' by Chinese artist Zhang Xuan. The painting ...
in the heyday of the Tang dynasty shows similar costumes. File:A Group of T'ang Dynasty Musicians from the Tomb of Li Shou (李壽).jpg, A Group of Tang Dynasty Musicians from the Tomb of Li Shou. File:新城公主墓壁畫1.JPG, Tang dynasty painting. File:執扇仕女.jpg, Tang dynasty painting. File:Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk (捣练图) by Emperor Huizong (1082–1135).jpg,
Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk ''Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk'' is a silk painting attributed to Emperor Huizong of the Song dynasty. It is the only extant copy of a lost original ''Court Ladies Preparing Newly Woven Silk'' by Chinese artist Zhang Xuan. The painting ...
(捣练图). File:Chou Fang 002.jpg, Tang dynasty women. File:A palace concert.jpg, One-piece and two-piece style qixiong ruqun depicted in Tang dynasty painting "A palace concert". File:揮扇仕女圖(局部).jpg, Tang dynasty painting. File:Chou Fang 003.jpg, Tang dynasty women. File:Noble Ladies Worshiping Buddha.jpg, Noble Ladies Worshipping Buddha, Tang dynasty painting.


Five dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period to Song dynasty

''Qixiong ruqun'' continued to be worn in the Five dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period. During the
Song dynasty The Song dynasty ( ) was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 960 to 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song, who usurped the throne of the Later Zhou dynasty and went on to conquer the rest of the Fiv ...
, the fashion of Song was different from the fashion of the Tang dynasty. With the rise of Neo-Confucianism, Song dynasty women were encouraged to reject the extravagant fashion of the Tang dynasty. The clothing of the Tang dynasty which emphasized on body curves and the low-cut garments which exposed cleaved and was once favoured by the Tang dynasty women was perceived as sensual and obscene by the Song dynasty women. The ''qixiong ruqun'' however continued to be depicted in the paintings of the Song dynasty. File:Shanghai Museum 2006 10-21.jpg, A lady, Five Dynasties Period (907-979). File:Buddhist donatress Chang, Mo-kao Caves.jpg, Buddhist donatress Chang (張氏供養人), painting from Mo-kao Caves, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms. File:Buddhist donatress, Yü-lin Caves.jpg, Buddhist donatress, Yü-lin Caves 19, Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms, d.926 AD. File:王處直墓壁畫1.jpg, Mural Painting of a woman from Tomb of Wang Ch'u-chih (王處直), Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms. File:Detail of a Mural Painting from Tomb of Wang Ch'u-chih (王處直).jpg, Detail of a Mural Painting from Tomb of Wang Ch'u-chih (王處直), Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms. File:王處直墓壁畫6.jpg, Mural Painting of a woman from Tomb of Wang Ch'u-chih (王處直), Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms. File:Buddhist donors from Cave 98 at Mo-kao.jpg, Buddhist donors from Cave 98 at Mo-kao, Five Dynasties or early
Northern Song dynasty The Song dynasty ( ) was an imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 960 to 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song, who usurped the throne of the Later Zhou dynasty and went on to conquer the rest of the Ten Kingdoms, endin ...
. File:Buddhist donors, Guiyi era.jpg, Buddhist donors in ''qixiong ruqun'', early
Northern Song dynasty The Song dynasty ( ) was an imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 960 to 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song, who usurped the throne of the Later Zhou dynasty and went on to conquer the rest of the Ten Kingdoms, endin ...
, 983 A.D. File:Looking in a Mirror by an Ornamental Box by Wang Shên (王詵《繡櫳曉鏡圖》) (cropped).jpg, Qixiong ruqun,
Southern Song The Song dynasty ( ) was an imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 960 to 1279. The dynasty was founded by Emperor Taizu of Song, who usurped the throne of the Later Zhou dynasty and went on to conquer the rest of the Ten Kingdoms, ending ...
painting by Wang Shên.


Ming dynasty

The Tang dynasty-style high-waisted skirt which tied to the chest area (just below the bust-line) and was worn with a short and very tight sleeved jacket was revived in the early and middle Ming dynasty when it was especially worn by young women. This strongly influenced the development of the Korean hanbok. File:Qiu Ying - Spring Morning in the Han Palace - Walters 3548 - View I.jpg, Spring Morning in the Han Palace, by the
Ming dynasty The Ming dynasty, officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 1368 to 1644, following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming was the last imperial dynasty of ...
painter
Qiu Ying Qiu Ying (; 1494–1552) was a Chinese painter of the Ming dynasty who specialised in the '' gongbi'' brush technique. Early life Qiu Ying's courtesy name was Shifu (), and his art name was Shizhou (). He was born to a peasant family in Tai ...
. File:Qiu Ying - Spring Morning in the Han Palace - Walters 3548 - View E.jpg, Spring Morning in the Han Palace, by the
Ming dynasty The Ming dynasty, officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 1368 to 1644, following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming was the last imperial dynasty of ...
painter
Qiu Ying Qiu Ying (; 1494–1552) was a Chinese painter of the Ming dynasty who specialised in the '' gongbi'' brush technique. Early life Qiu Ying's courtesy name was Shifu (), and his art name was Shizhou (). He was born to a peasant family in Tai ...
. File:Mingrenwu58a.jpg


Modern time

In modern times with the increasing popularity of
hanfu ''Hanfu'' (, lit. "Han Chinese, Han clothing"), also known as ''Hanzhuang'' (), are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an ...
and driven by the hanfu movement, the ''qixiong ruqun'' gained high popularity among young women. The modern ''qixiong ruqun'' is controversial due to the rarity of unearthed historical clothing. The modern ''qixiong ruqun'' which is found on the current market comes into two forms: # one-piece style, and # two-piece style with a slit under the waist. The former is well accepted as being an authentic shape as such form of skirt was unearthed in archeological findings; thus proving the correctness of the one-piece style ''qixiong ruqun'' whereas the latter is controversial as it is a style which (so far) can only be found in ancient paintings, such as the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
"A palace concert" painting.


How to wear the modern qixiong ruqun

The qixiong ruqun can be found into a one-piece and two-pieces skirts. The one-piece style qixiong ruqun is a traditional Chinese one-piece skirt which is tied like a wrap-skirt. The two-piece style qixiong ruqun consists of two pieces of fabrics. It is presented as two pieces of fabric incompletely sewn together on the side to form a rear and a front section and with two sets of ties. The method to tie the two-piece qixiong ruqun is different from the traditional one-piece skirt: first, the rear section is tied, and then the front section is tied.


Influences and derivatives


Khitan Liao dynasty

From at least the
Han dynasty The Han dynasty was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China (202 BC9 AD, 25–220 AD) established by Liu Bang and ruled by the House of Liu. The dynasty was preceded by the short-lived Qin dynasty (221–206 BC ...
until the Mongol period, Non-Han Chinese women (regardless of social status or cultural identity) who lived in Han dynasty territories wore
Han Chinese clothing ''Hanfu'' (, lit. "Han Chinese, Han clothing"), also known as ''Hanzhuang'' (), are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an ...
. During the Tang dynasty, Central Asian women also were depicted wearing Han Chinese style clothing. After the fall of the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
, the Tang-style Han Chinese clothing continued to be worn in the Liao. The Khitans inherited the
Hanfu ''Hanfu'' (, lit. "Han Chinese, Han clothing"), also known as ''Hanzhuang'' (), are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an ...
from the Later Jin dynasty; the clothing of the Later Jin were actually clothing from the Tang dynasty. File:Pao-Shan Tomb Wall-Painting of Liao Dynasty (寳山遼墓壁畫:頌經圗).jpg, Qixiong ruqun, Liao dynasty. File:Pao-Shan Tomb Wall-Painting of Liao Dynasty (寳山遼墓壁畫:降眞圗).jpg, Qixiong ruqun, Liao dynasty. File:Preparing drinks 1, mural from Tomb in Aohan, Liao Dynasty.jpg, A female attendant wearing qixiong ruqun, mural tomb in Aohan, Liao dynasty.


Khotan Hotan (also known by #Etymology, other names) is a major oasis town in southwestern Xinjiang, an Autonomous regions of China, autonomous region in Northwestern China. The city proper of Hotan broke off from the larger Hotan County to become an ...

In
Dunhuang Dunhuang () is a county-level city in northwestern Gansu Province, Western China. According to the 2010 Chinese census, the city has a population of 186,027, though 2019 estimates put the city's population at about 191,800. Sachu (Dunhuang) was ...
, the clothing fashion of the 8th and 9th century AD closely followed the Tang dynasty's fashion. This trend later changed in the 10th century AD when the Uyghur clothing and Sino-Uygur headdress became more prominent. File:Khotanese donor ladies. Dunhuang cave 61.jpg, Khotanese donor ladies, Dunhuang cave 61. File:Dunhuang Mogao cave Cao donor figures.jpg, Wife of a Khotanese ruler (right) and a Uyghur lady in Uygur clothing (left), Mogao cave 61.


Korea

In
Silla Silla (; Old Korean: wikt:徐羅伐#Old Korean, 徐羅伐, Yale romanization of Korean, Yale: Syerapel, Revised Romanization of Korean, RR: ''Seorabeol''; International Phonetic Alphabet, IPA: ) was a Korean kingdom that existed between ...
, the clothing of Korean women were influenced by the fashion of the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
due to the cultural interactions. Chinese-style clothing and Chinese fashion was introduced in the Unified Silla period. Some clay figures found in that period shows the high-waist line skirt worn over the jacket and appears to have shoulder straps attached to it. The skirts worn over the jackets was a distinctive clothing style of the Tang dynasty's women. Under the Tang dynasty influence, the skirts in Silla were similarly worn at chest-level and was tied with long ribbons. The ''qixiong ruqun'' with shoulder straps was also worn in China, but they appeared to have been rarely used in China during the Tang dynasty. When Balhae established peaceful diplomatic relations with the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
,
Chinese culture Chinese culture () is one of the Cradle of civilization#Ancient China, world's earliest cultures, said to originate five thousand years ago. The culture prevails across a large geographical region in East Asia called the Sinosphere as a whole ...
was vigorously introduced by the Balhae court.
Balhae Balhae,, , ) also rendered as Bohai or Bohea, and called Jin (; ) early on, was a multiethnic kingdom established in 698 by Dae Joyeong (Da Zuorong). It was originally known as the Kingdom of Jin (震, Zhen) until 713 when its name was changed ...
also adopted the women clothing of the Tang dynasty and assimilated the clothing of the Tang dynasty. Some excavated Balhae relics show that women in Balhae wore a narrow sleeved blouse with low cut neckline under a long skirt which was tied above the bust, which is a typical form of clothing style of Tang dynasty. Other relics also show the ornamental differences between the Balhae and Tang dynasty women in the use of different types of
shawl A shawl (from ''shāl'') is a simple item of clothing, loosely worn over the shoulders, upper body and arms, and sometimes also over the head. It is usually a rectangular piece of Textile, cloth, but can also be Square (geometry), square or tr ...
. This form of high-waisted skirt which ties to the
chest The thorax (: thoraces or thoraxes) or chest is a part of the anatomy of mammals and other tetrapod animals located between the neck and the abdomen. In insects, crustaceans, and the extinct trilobites, the thorax is one of the three main di ...
can still be seen in the '' chima'' worn in the modern days
Korean Korean may refer to: People and culture * Koreans, people from the Korean peninsula or of Korean descent * Korean culture * Korean language **Korean alphabet, known as Hangul or Korean **Korean dialects **See also: North–South differences in t ...
women's
hanbok The hanbok () is the traditional clothing of the Koreans, Korean people. The term ''hanbok'' is primarily used by South Koreans; North Koreans refer to the clothes as (). The clothes are also worn in the Korean diaspora. Koryo-saram—ethnic Ko ...
. It is also likely that the current women's hanbok has been derived from the
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
's high-waisted skirt with a short '' ru'' (襦) or from a later revival of the Tang dynasty fashion. Although there were influences from the previous dynasties, the clothing worn in
Silla period Silla (; Old Korean: 徐羅伐, Yale: Syerapel, RR: ''Seorabeol''; IPA: ) was a Korean kingdom that existed between 57 BCE – 935 CE and was located on the southern and central parts of the Korean Peninsula. Silla, along with Paekje ...
was gradually altered during the
Joseon dynasty Joseon ( ; ; also romanized as ''Chosun''), officially Great Joseon (), was a dynastic kingdom of Korea that existed for 505 years. It was founded by Taejo of Joseon in July 1392 and replaced by the Korean Empire in October 1897. The kingdom w ...
until its forms became what is now known as hanbok. Nowadays women hanbok is modelled after the Joseon aristocratic women hanbok.


Design and construction

Tang dynasty was a dynasty with a prosperous economy and relatively open social fashion. Its costumes tended to be bright, colourful, and diverse. Qixiong ruqun is divided into two kinds: # Duijin qixiong ruqun (parallel collar type) - Duijin qixiong ruqun was and is generally more widely used. # Jiaoling Qixiong ruqun (crossed collar type).


Composition of Qixiong ruqun

Qixiong Ruqun is a style of
ruqun (;) is a set of attire in which consists of a short jacket typically called () worn under a long Chinese skirt called (). However, when use as a general term, can broadly describe a set of attire which consists of a separated upper garment ...
. Ruqun consists of a ru ( ) and a skirt (qun, ; also known as Chang, ), it is a typical upper and lower garment system. Because it must match the Qixiong skirt that was worn, the ru were usually very short. The patterns on clothes also had different requirements according to the characteristics of different dynasties, for example, flowers and plants were often used as patterns in Tang dynasty.


Qixiong ruqun accessories


Hezi (

诃子 ''Terminalia chebula'', commonly known as black- or chebulic myrobalan, is a species of ''Terminalia'', native to South Asia from Pakistan, India and Nepal east to southwest China (Yunnan), and south to Sri Lanka, Malaysia, and Vietnam.Flora of ...
)

The hezi is a corset-like garment that is attributed to
Yang Guifei Yang Yuhuan (; 719 – 15 July 756Volume 218 of ''Zizhi Tongjian'' recorded that Yang was killed on the ''bing'shen'' day of the 6th month of the 1st year of the ''Zhi'de'' era of Tang Suzong's reign. This date corresponds to 15 Jul 756 on the ...
. The hezi is tied from the back to the front, and the lower part has a rope so that the waist part of the skirt can be tied at the same time. This accessory bears resemblance to the Qing dynasty
Dudou A ''dudou'' (; also known by other names) is a traditional Chinese article of clothing that covers the front of the torso, originally worn as an undershirt with medicinal properties. With the opening of China, it is sometimes encountered in ...
( 肚兜). Hezi is worn in the Tang dynasty, Song dynasty and
Ming dynasty The Ming dynasty, officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 1368 to 1644, following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming was the last imperial dynasty of ...
. Hezi can be seen in ancient Chinese frescoes and cultural relics, for example, the famous
Dunhuang Dunhuang () is a county-level city in northwestern Gansu Province, Western China. According to the 2010 Chinese census, the city has a population of 186,027, though 2019 estimates put the city's population at about 191,800. Sachu (Dunhuang) was ...
( 敦煌) Mural.


Pibo ( 披帛)

Pibo is often used as decoration for ''qixiong ruqun''. Pibo evolved from a long shawl, and later gradually became a ribbon between the arms, this is the typical costume of ancient Chinese ladies. Pibo often appears in the murals of
Sui dynasty The Sui dynasty ( ) was a short-lived Dynasties of China, Chinese imperial dynasty that ruled from 581 to 618. The re-unification of China proper under the Sui brought the Northern and Southern dynasties era to a close, ending a prolonged peri ...
and
Tang dynasty The Tang dynasty (, ; zh, c=唐朝), or the Tang Empire, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 618 to 907, with an Wu Zhou, interregnum between 690 and 705. It was preceded by the Sui dynasty and followed ...
, and Tang dynasty is the most popular period. It is made of silver or gold chiffon, one end of which is fixed on the belt of the half arm then draped over the shoulder and wound around the arms. There are two kinds of pibo: one type of banner is broader and shorter, which is mostly used by married women. Another can reach more than two meters in length, primarily used by unmarried women. Women's clothing styles in the middle and late Tang dynasty tend to be more and more loose and elegant, so most of them are decorated with pibo. It is a type of decoration that influenced the
dupatta The dupattā, also called chunni, chunari, chundari, lugda, rao/rawo, gandhi, pothi, orna, and odhni is a long shawl-like scarf traditionally worn by women in the Indian subcontinent. Traditionally, in India, the dupatta is part of the women's le ...
in
India India, officially the Republic of India, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by area, seventh-largest country by area; the List of countries by population (United Nations), most populous country since ...
.


Daxiushan ( 大袖衫)

Daxiushan (), also referred as (), (), (), is a form of , a traditional Chinese upper garment, with broad sleeves in . It was most popular during the Tang dynasty, particularly among the members of royalty. The was mainly worn for special ceremonial o ...
is also used to match the dress with the skirt. In ancient times, qixiong ruqun with a
daxiushan (), also referred as (), (), (), is a form of , a traditional Chinese upper garment, with broad sleeves in . It was most popular during the Tang dynasty, particularly among the members of royalty. The was mainly worn for special ceremonial o ...
can be worn as a formal dress. The material of daxiushan upper garment is compared commonly flimsy. Its lace-up position is located in the lower part of clothing. This kind of dress can be seen in the Tang dynasty cultural relics silk painting "court ladies adorning their hair with flowers", this work is from Zhou Fang, who was a very influential painter in the middle Tang dynasty. The cuff of
daxiushan (), also referred as (), (), (), is a form of , a traditional Chinese upper garment, with broad sleeves in . It was most popular during the Tang dynasty, particularly among the members of royalty. The was mainly worn for special ceremonial o ...
upper garment has 4.37 feet above commonly. Many costumes can be used with daxiushan, which is commonly seen with narrow sleeves, straight sleeves and wide sleeves blouse ( ru).


Other depictions


Chinese paintings of later centuries

The ''qixiong ruqun'' and/or ''qixiong ruqun-style clothing'' continued to be depicted in the paintings and/or illustrations of the
Ming dynasty The Ming dynasty, officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 1368 to 1644, following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming was the last imperial dynasty of ...
and
Qing dynasty The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing, was a Manchu-led Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China and an early modern empire in East Asia. The last imperial dynasty in Chinese history, the Qing dynasty was preceded by the ...
. File:Northern Western Wing 1 7.png, llustration by
Chen Hongshou Chen Hongshou (1598 Zhuji, Zhejiang province –1652), formerly romanized as Ch'en Hung-shou, was a Chinese painter of the late Ming dynasty. Life Chen was born in Zhuji, Zhejiang province in 1598, during the Ming dynasty. His courtesy name ...
, late
Ming dynasty The Ming dynasty, officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 1368 to 1644, following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming was the last imperial dynasty of ...
. File:Zhang Shengzhi Xiansheng Zhengbei Xixiang Miben.jpg, Illustration by
Chen Hongshou Chen Hongshou (1598 Zhuji, Zhejiang province –1652), formerly romanized as Ch'en Hung-shou, was a Chinese painter of the late Ming dynasty. Life Chen was born in Zhuji, Zhejiang province in 1598, during the Ming dynasty. His courtesy name ...
, late
Ming dynasty The Ming dynasty, officially the Great Ming, was an Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China that ruled from 1368 to 1644, following the collapse of the Mongol Empire, Mongol-led Yuan dynasty. The Ming was the last imperial dynasty of ...
. File:Qing Dynasty Magu.jpg, Magu (the goddess of flowers),
Qing dynasty The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing, was a Manchu-led Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China and an early modern empire in East Asia. The last imperial dynasty in Chinese history, the Qing dynasty was preceded by the ...
painting. File:Ren xiong 1.jpg, Painting by late
Qing dynasty The Qing dynasty ( ), officially the Great Qing, was a Manchu-led Dynasties of China, imperial dynasty of China and an early modern empire in East Asia. The last imperial dynasty in Chinese history, the Qing dynasty was preceded by the ...
painting,
Ren Xiong Ren Xiong (; courtesy name: Weichang 渭長, also known as Xiangpu 湘浦; art name: Bushe 不捨; July 19, 1823 – November 23, 1857) was a Chinese painter from Xiaoshan, Zhejiang, active during the late Qing dynasty The Qing dyn ...
.


Entertainment

''Qixiong ruqun'' and/or ''qixiong ruqun-style'' clothing is occasionally depicted in the costumes worn by actors in
Chinese television drama Chinese television dramas (), sometimes colloquially known as C-dramas, are Chinese-language television drama series originating from mainland China, sometimes including co-productions with the Greater China region. Popular drama series genres in ...
s, in movies, and other forms of entertainment. They are also sometimes depicted in
Korean drama Korean drama (), also known as K-drama or Koreanovela, refers to Korean language, Korean-language television shows made in South Korea. These shows began to be produced around the early 1960s, but were mostly consumed domestically until the rise ...
s.


Media depictions

Qixiong ruqun has been depicted in films and television series, including ''
Curse of the Golden Flower ''Curse of the Golden Flower'' () is a 2006 Chinese epic wuxia drama film written and directed by Zhang Yimou. The Mandarin Chinese title of the movie is taken from the last line of a poem written by the rebel leader Huang Chao, who had revolte ...
'' (2006), ''
Jumong Dongmyeong of Goguryeo (), personal name Ko Chumong (), was the founding monarch of the kingdom of Goguryeo, and was worshipped as a god-king by the people of Goguryeo and Goryeo. King Dongmyeong was also an important figure for the kingdom of ...
'' (2006), ''
Queen Seondeok Queen Seondeok ( ; ? – ; day of the lunar month of the year of Inpyeong []) reigned as Queen Regnant of Silla, one of the Three Kingdoms of Korea, from 632 to 647. She was Silla's List of monarchs of Korea, twenty-seventh ruler, and its ...
'' (2009), ''The Empress of China'' (2014), '' Wu Xin: The Monster Killer'' (2015), ''
The Story of Minglan ''The Story of Minglan'' () is a 2018 Chinese television series adapted from a novel of the same name written under the pseudonym ''Guanxin Zeluan''. It stars Zhao Liying, Feng Shaofeng and Zhu Yilong. The series premiered on December 25, 2018 ...
'' (2018), ''
The Longest Day in Chang'an ''The Longest Day in Chang'an'' () is a 2019 Chinese historical suspense drama directed by Cao Dun and written by Paw Studio. The series stars Lei Jiayin and Jackson Yee. It is based on the novel of the same name by Ma Boyong. ''The Longest Day ...
'' (2019), '' The Untamed'' (2019), ''
Court Lady A lady-in-waiting (alternatively written lady in waiting) or court lady is a female personal assistant at a court, attending on a royal woman or a high-ranking noblewoman. Historically, in Europe, a lady-in-waiting was often a noblewoman but o ...
'' (2021) and ''
The Long Ballad ''The Long Ballad'' () is a 2021 Chinese television drama, Chinese television series based on the manhua of the same name by Xia Da. It is directed by Zhu Ruibin, and stars Dilraba Dilmurat, Leo Wu, Wu Lei, Zhao Lusi and Liu Yuning. Set against th ...
'' (2021).


See also

* Fashion in Liao dynasty * Hanfu movement *
Hanfu ''Hanfu'' (, lit. "Han Chinese, Han clothing"), also known as ''Hanzhuang'' (), are the traditional styles of clothing worn by the Han Chinese since the 2nd millennium BCE. There are several representative styles of ''hanfu'', such as the (an ...
*
Daxiushan (), also referred as (), (), (), is a form of , a traditional Chinese upper garment, with broad sleeves in . It was most popular during the Tang dynasty, particularly among the members of royalty. The was mainly worn for special ceremonial o ...


References

{{reflist Chinese traditional clothing