Portgordon
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Portgordon, or sometimes Port Gordon, () is a village in
Moray Moray ( ; or ) is one of the 32 council areas of Scotland. It lies in the north-east of the country, with a coastline on the Moray Firth, and borders the council areas of Aberdeenshire and Highland. Its council is based in Elgin, the area' ...
, Scotland, south-west of
Buckie Buckie () is a burgh town (defined as such in List of burghs in Scotland, 1888) on the Moray Firth coast of Scotland. Counties of Scotland, Historically in Banffshire, Buckie was the largest town in the county until the administrative area was ...
. It was established in 1797 by
Alexander Gordon, 4th Duke of Gordon Alexander Gordon, 4th Duke of Gordon, (18 June 1743 – 17 June 1827), styled Marquess of Huntly until 1752, was a Scottish peer who was described by Lord Kames as the "greatest subject in Britain". He was also known as the "Cock o' the North", ...
as a fishing village. It had a population of 844 at the time of the 2011 census. The Portgordon Community Harbour Group was trying to regenerate the harbour and open a marina.


History

By 1793 Buckie was the principal fishing community in the area. At that time fishing was confined to line fishing for
cod Cod (: cod) is the common name for the demersal fish genus ''Gadus'', belonging to the family (biology), family Gadidae. Cod is also used as part of the common name for a number of other fish species, and one species that belongs to genus ''Gad ...
, ling and
haddock The haddock (''Melanogrammus aeglefinus'') is a saltwater ray-finned fish from the Family (biology), family Gadidae, the true cods. It is the only species in the Monotypy, monotypic genus ''Melanogrammus''. It is found in the North Atlantic Oce ...
, in boats no larger than 14 tons. Development of the industry was limited by the lack of a proper harbour, and disputes amongst the three owners of the various boats. One of these, Alexander, 4th Duke of Gordon, decided to establish a new village, just to the west of the tiny community of Gollachy which comprised but a few houses in the area that is now Gordon Street. Work was underway on the harbour in 1795 and stone was shipped from
Lossiemouth Lossiemouth () is a town in Moray, Scotland. Originally the port belonging to Elgin, Moray, Elgin, it became an important fishing town. Although there has been over 1,000 years of settlement in the area, the present day town was formed over the ...
in 1796. In 1797 houses were built for ten fishermen and their families from Nether Buckie (the western side of Buckie). This was the third new village the Duke had established, but unlike
Fochabers Fochabers (; ) is a village in the Parish of Bellie, in Moray, Scotland, east of the cathedral city of Elgin, Moray, Elgin and located on the east bank of the River Spey. 1,728 people live in the village, which enjoys a rich musical and cultu ...
and
Tomintoul Tomintoul (; from , meaning "Hillock of the Barn") is a village in the Moray council area of Scotland in the historic county of Banffshire. Within Cairngorms National Park, the village lies close to the banks of the River Avon and is said by s ...
before, this was a smaller venture and little planning was done with regards to street layout. The land immediately to the west of Portgordon was owned by Patrick Steuart of Tannachy and Auchlunkart, who built there the Seatown of Tannachy (now more commonly Porttannachy) during the 19th century. At this time trade was expanding, not just in fishing and boat building, but in the export of grain, and import of salt, coal and lumber, and the building of granaries. This placed Portgordon at a great advantage over Buckie which was still limited by its natural harbour to fishing alone. By the 1850s a post office had opened and there were many coopers, fish processors and net makers. By 1861 the population had grown to around 630. The opening of a fertiliser factory in Keith lead to traffic in bones through the harbour too. Rail service began in 1886 with the opening of Portgordon railway station on the Moray Firth coast line on the
Great North of Scotland Railway The Great North of Scotland Railway (GNSR) was one of the two smallest of the five major Scottish railway companies prior to the 1923 Grouping, operating in the north-east of the country. Formed in 1845, it carried its first passengers the fro ...
. The line became part of the
London and North Eastern Railway The London and North Eastern Railway (LNER) was the second largest (after London, Midland and Scottish Railway, LMS) of the "Big Four (British railway companies), Big Four" railway companies created by the Railways Act 1921 in Britain. It ope ...
in 1923 and part of
British Railways British Railways (BR), which from 1965 traded as British Rail, was a state-owned company that operated most rail transport in Great Britain from 1948 to 1997. Originally a trading brand of the Railway Executive of the British Transport Commis ...
in 1948. The
Beeching Report Beeching is an English surname. It is either a derivative of the old English ''bece'', ''bæce'' "stream", hence "dweller by the stream" or of the old English ''bece'' "beech-tree" hence "dweller by the beech tree".''Oxford Dictionary of English Sur ...
recommended closure, and it was closed on 6 May 1968. In 1981 a
bowling green A bowling green is a finely laid, close-mown and rolled stretch of turf for playing the game of bowls. Before 1830, when Edwin Beard Budding of Thrupp, near Stroud, UK, invented the lawnmower, lawns were often kept cropped by grazing sheep ...
and play park were opened on the site of the old station. The
Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889 The Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889 ( 52 & 53 Vict. c. 50) is an act of the Parliament of the United Kingdom which was passed on 26 August 1889. The main effect of the act was to establish elected county councils in Scotland. In this it fol ...
established
Banffshire Banffshire (; ; ) is a historic county in Scotland. The county town is Banff, although the largest settlement is Buckie to the west. The historic county ceased to be used for local government purposes in 1975. Since 1996 the area has been spli ...
County Council and this led to the establishment of street names throughout the village, and the demise of Seatown of Tannachy and Gollachy as distinct communities. A boat-building industry began, with local yards first constructing
Zulus Zulu people (; ) are a native people of Southern Africa of the Nguni. The Zulu people are the largest ethnic group and nation in South Africa, living mainly in the province of KwaZulu-Natal. They originated from Nguni communities who took p ...
and from 1903 steam drifters. In 1907 one yard employed fifty men and launched a drifter every month or so but this business in drifters had dried up by 1915, though the yard continued to produce salmon
coble The coble is a type of open traditional fishing boat which developed on the North East coast of England. The southernmost examples occur around Hull (although Cooke drew examples at Yarmouth, see his ''Shipping and Craft'' series of drawin ...
s. Street lighting was introduced in the 1920s, and
paraffin Paraffin may refer to: Substances * Paraffin wax, a white or colorless soft solid (also in liquid form) that is used as a lubricant and for other applications * Liquid paraffin (drug), a very highly refined mineral oil used in cosmetics and for med ...
was used as there was no mains gas or electricity. Portgordon was one of the last communities to get electricity in 1937, and the village was nicknamed "Paraffin City". During
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
in 1940, two German spies, Karl Drüeke and Vera Erikson were captured at the railway station and held at the police station.


Portgordon harbour

The original harbour of 1797 was constructed with wooden piers. Both fishing and an import/export trade thrived, and Portgordon became the principal port in the area. The Gordon estates transferred first to
George Gordon, 5th Duke of Gordon General George Duncan Gordon, 5th Duke of Gordon, (2 February 1770 – 28 May 1836), styled Marquess of Huntly until 1827, was a Scottish nobleman, soldier and politician and the last of his line. Early life George was born at Edinburgh on 2 ...
and thence to his nephew
Charles Gordon-Lennox, 5th Duke of Richmond Charles Gordon-Lennox, 5th Duke of Richmond, (''né'' Lennox; 3 August 179121 October 1860), styled the Earl of March from 1806–19, was a Scottish peer, soldier and prominent Conservative Party (UK), Conservative politician. Upon the death of ...
. In 1859 the Duchess of Gordon presented a barometer for the use of the fishermen and it was installed at the harbour. The Harbour Committee turned in the late 1860s to
Charles Gordon-Lennox, 6th Duke of Richmond Charles Henry Gordon-Lennox, 6th Duke of Richmond, 6th Duke of Lennox, 1st Duke of Gordon, (27 February 1818 – 27 September 1903), styled the Earl of March until 1860, was a British Conservative Party (UK), Conservative politician. Backgroun ...
when the condition of the harbour was deteriorating and generally becoming inadequate for the increasing traffic. He agreed to pay for reconstruction if the fishermen would assist with transport of materials from
Lossiemouth Lossiemouth () is a town in Moray, Scotland. Originally the port belonging to Elgin, Moray, Elgin, it became an important fishing town. Although there has been over 1,000 years of settlement in the area, the present day town was formed over the ...
and
Hopeman Hopeman (, ) is a seaside village in Moray, Scotland, it is situated on the coast of the Moray Firth, founded in 1805 to house and re-employ people displaced during the Highland clearances. According to the 2011 census, Hopeman has a populati ...
. The new harbour would enclose 3 acres, and cranes were to be installed for the first time at Portgordon. Construction took place between 1870 and 1874 and subsequently over a hundred boats were registered in the harbour. Success was short-lived though, and the number of boats was in decline by 1881 due to competition from new harbours in Buckie and Buckpool. By 1904 the harbour was beginning to silt up and boats were having to wait for the tide to be able to enter harbour.
Charles Gordon-Lennox, 7th Duke of Richmond Charles Henry Gordon-Lennox, 7th Duke of Richmond, 2nd Duke of Gordon (27 December 1845 – 18 January 1928), styled Lord Settrington until 1860 and Earl of March between 1860 and 1903, was a British politician and peer. Early life Styled Lord ...
was asked to build an extension to the eastern pier to stop the beach from washing into the harbour, but only dredging was carried out, in 1906 and 1907. In 1908 the Duke offered to give the harbour to the community along with £2,000 to pay for the extension, but this offer was turned down in 1909, with many villagers concerned about maintenance costs. In 1935 ownership of the harbour transferred from the Gordon-Lennox family to the Crown Estate Commissioners when
Frederick Gordon-Lennox, 9th Duke of Richmond Frederick Charles Gordon-Lennox, 9th Duke of Richmond, 9th Duke of Lennox, 9th Duke of Aubigny, 4th Duke of Gordon (5 February 1904 – 2 November 1989), also known as Freddie March and Freddie Richmond, was a British peer, engineer, racing d ...
sold his Scottish estates to pay crippling death duties. By 1945 there were only fourteen boats in the harbour, and little commercial activity. Crown Estates Commissioners closed the harbour in 1947, and it was thereafter used only by a few pleasure craft. The structures were further damaged in the
North Sea flood of 1953 The 1953 North Sea flood () was a major flood caused by a heavy storm surge that struck the Netherlands, north-west Belgium, England and Scotland. Most sea defences facing the surge were overwhelmed, resulting in extensive flooding. The ...
. By the late 1970s the north-west corner was breached and the mouth of the harbour was seriously silted up. Funded by various grants, the 69th Gurkha Independent Field Squadron rebuilt the harbour between 1985 and 1989.


Churches

In the early part of the village's history the populace was served by churches in other communities nearby. Roman Catholics in the area had first been using the
clandestine church A clandestine church (), defined by historian Benjamin J. Kaplan as a "semi-clandestine church", is a house of worship used by religious minorities whose communal worship is tolerated by those of the majority faith on condition that it is discr ...
of
St Ninian's Church, Tynet St Ninian's Church, Tynet is a historic Roman Catholic clandestine church located at Tynet about 4 miles to the west of Buckie, Scotland in the Enzie region. Erected in 1755, it is the oldest surviving Roman Catholic church built in Scotland a ...
, which was supplanted in 1788 by
St Gregory's Church, Preshome St. Gregory's Church is a Roman Catholic church at Preshome near Buckie in north-east Scotland. It is protected as a category A listed building. Built in 1788, St. Gregory's was the first church building to be openly built by Catholics in Sco ...
. St. Gregory's was the first church building to be openly built by Catholics in Scotland since the Reformation of 1560. There was a quoad sacra parish of the Church of Scotland at Enzie following a mission chapel which dated from 1728. The
United Free Church The United Free Church of Scotland (UF Church; , ) is a Scottish Presbyterian denomination formed in 1900 by the union of the United Presbyterian Church of Scotland (or UP) and the majority of the 19th-century Free Church of Scotland. The maj ...
had a church at Enzie crossroads a mile to the south of the village. In 1860 a
Methodist Methodism, also called the Methodist movement, is a Protestant Christianity, Christian Christian tradition, tradition whose origins, doctrine and practice derive from the life and teachings of John Wesley. George Whitefield and John's brother ...
minister, James Turner, preached a series of sermons which resulted in an interest in Methodism and the closure of six of the ten pubs in the village. A Methodist congregation was formed and the present church was built in 1874. In 1902 the United Free Church opened a new church hall in Portgordon.


Landmarks

A memorial to those who had lost their lives during
World War I World War I or the First World War (28 July 1914 – 11 November 1918), also known as the Great War, was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War I, Allies (or Entente) and the Central Powers. Fighting to ...
was unveiled on 9 June 1921. It is a
Celtic cross upright 0.75 , A Celtic cross symbol The Celtic cross is a form of ringed cross, a Christian cross featuring a nimbus or ring, that emerged in the British Isles and Western Europe in the Early Middle Ages. It became widespread through its u ...
of
granite Granite ( ) is a coarse-grained (phanerite, phaneritic) intrusive rock, intrusive igneous rock composed mostly of quartz, alkali feldspar, and plagioclase. It forms from magma with a high content of silica and alkali metal oxides that slowly coo ...
, situated in East High Street. It records the names of 28 killed during World War I and a further 28 added from
World War II World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
. Gollachy ice house is somewhat unusual, being sited on the shore, and excavated rather than being built into side of a hill. It is of
rubble Rubble is broken stone, of irregular size, shape and texture; undressed especially as a filling-in. Rubble naturally found in the soil is known also as 'brash' (compare cornbrash)."Rubble" def. 2., "Brash n. 2. def. 1. ''Oxford English Dictionar ...
construction, built in the early 19th century, with a
hip roof A hip roof, hip-roof or hipped roof, is a type of roof where all sides slope downward to the walls, usually with a fairly gentle slope, with variants including Tented roof, tented roofs and others. Thus, a hipped roof has no gables or other ve ...
of
turf Sod is the upper layer of turf that is harvested for transplanting. Turf consists of a variable thickness of a soil medium that supports a community of turfgrasses. In British and Australian English, sod is more commonly known as ''turf'', ...
. It was restored in the 1970s and is a category B
listed building In the United Kingdom, a listed building is a structure of particular architectural or historic interest deserving of special protection. Such buildings are placed on one of the four statutory lists maintained by Historic England in England, Hi ...
.


Transport

Portgordon is on the A990 road. The
Speyside Way The Speyside Way ( Doric: '; ) is a long-distance path in the Scottish Highlands. The route begins in Buckie and ends at Newtonmore, away. There is an optional spur leading off the main route to Tomintoul, adding and of ascent. The route p ...
, Moray Coast trail and
National Cycle Route 1 The cycle-path is located in the United Kingdom. Route Dover to Canterbury Dover , Deal, Kent, Deal , Sandwich, Kent, Sandwich , Canterbury Links with National Cycle Route 2, RCR 16, Kent, Regional route 16, and RCR 17, Kent, Regional r ...
pass through the village. The nearest railway stations are at
Elgin Elgin may refer to: Places Canada * Elgin County, Ontario * Elgin Settlement, a 19th-century community for freed slaves located in present-day North Buxton and South Buxton, Ontario * Elgin, a village in Rideau Lakes, Ontario * Elgin, Manit ...
and Keith.


Education

Portgordon Primary School had a pupil enrollment of 60 as at 23 September 2014. In 2014, Moray Council's Sustainable Education Review recommended merging the school into Cluny Primary School in Buckie, but following petitions the council voted to give it a five-year reprieve; the school was active .


See also

* Portgordon railway station *
Scottish east coast fishery The Scottish east coast fishery has been in existence for more than a thousand years, spanning the Viking Age right up to the present day. A brief history The fishery has always been for both whitefish and herring. The Norsemen came to Scotland ...
* Vera von Schalburg


References


External links / Further reading

* Portgordon Community Harbour Group Lt

* Port Gordon, The Life and Times of a Village, Peter H. Rei

* The Moray Coast: From Cullen to Culbin Through Time, Jenny Main, Amberley Publishing Limited, Oct 16, 201

*
Ordnance Survey The Ordnance Survey (OS) is the national mapping agency for Great Britain. The agency's name indicates its original military purpose (see Artillery, ordnance and surveying), which was to map Scotland in the wake of the Jacobite rising of ...
maps 25 inch, Banff Sheet I.12 (Rathven), Survey date: 1870, Published: 187

http://maps.nls.uk/view/75067263] * Ordnance Survey maps 25 inch, Banffshire 001.16 & 15 (includes: Bellie; Rathven), Published: 1905 Revised: 190

http://maps.nls.uk/view/82869900] {{Authority control Villages in Moray Populated places established in 1797