
Pomade is a greasy, waxy, or water-based substance that is used to style hair. It generally gives the user's hair a shiny, slick appearance. It lasts longer than most
hair-care products, and often requires repeated washes for complete removal. The pomades of the 18th and 19th centuries consisted mainly of
bear fat or
lard.
Lanolin,
beeswax
Bee hive wax complex
Beeswax (also known as cera alba) is a natural wax produced by honey bees of the genus ''Apis''. The wax is formed into scales by eight wax-producing glands in the abdominal segments of worker bees, which discard it in o ...
and
petroleum jelly
Petroleum jelly, petrolatum (), white petrolatum, soft paraffin, or multi-hydrocarbon, CAS number 8009-03-8, is a semi-solid mixture of hydrocarbons (with carbon numbers mainly higher than 25), originally promoted as a topical ointment for i ...
have been used extensively in modern pomades. The hold of pomades makes sculptured hairstyles such as the
pompadour waves (hairstyle) possible.
Fragrances
Pomade also refers to a wax extract of fragrant flowers. They preserve the fragrances. Instead of using hot wax as the extractant, fats, such as
tallow
Tallow is a rendered form of beef or mutton suet, primarily made up of triglycerides.
In industry, tallow is not strictly defined as beef or mutton suet. In this context, tallow is animal fat that conforms to certain technical criteria, inc ...
has been used. Related to pomades are other forms of extracting and preserving fragrances. These include concretes and resinoids.
Names
The
English word ' derives from
French , itself from
Italian , from ("
apple
An apple is a round, edible fruit produced by an apple tree (''Malus'' spp.). Fruit trees of the orchard or domestic apple (''Malus domestica''), the most widely grown in the genus, are agriculture, cultivated worldwide. The tree originated ...
") and , used to form related nouns. In the
Early Modern Period
The early modern period is a Periodization, historical period that is defined either as part of or as immediately preceding the modern period, with divisions based primarily on the history of Europe and the broader concept of modernity. There i ...
, pomades were
ointment
A topical medication is a medication that is applied to a particular place on or in the body. Most often topical medication means application to body surfaces such as the skin or mucous membranes to treat ailments via a large range of classes ...
s made from various kinds of fat and used to beautify both the skin and face. Mashed apples were added to help perfume the mixture. (The word was also infrequently used as a synonym for
apple cider
Apple cider (also called sweet cider, soft cider, or simply cider) is the name used in the United States and Canada for an unfiltered, unsweetened, non-alcoholic beverage made from apples. Though typically referred to simply as "cider" in North ...
.) Modern pomades may contain fragrances but are usually not particularly fruity. Other English names for the ointment, drink, and hair treatment are pomate and pomatum from , the
Medieval Latin
Medieval Latin was the form of Literary Latin used in Roman Catholic Church, Roman Catholic Western Europe during the Middle Ages. It was also the administrative language in the former Western Roman Empire, Roman Provinces of Mauretania, Numidi ...
form of the same name.
History
During the Roman era, soap was used as a pomade by some European tribes. In the 19th century,
bear fat was usually the main pomade ingredient. In 1873 UK company Morgan's Pomade was established selling Hair Darkening Pomade across the world. By the early 20th century, petroleum jelly, beeswax, and lard were more commonly used. Early 20th century examples of pomades include
Murray's Superior Pomade (originating in 1925), Sweet Georgia Brown Hair Dressing Pomade (originating in 1934) and Royal Crown Pomade (originating in 1936). Dixie Peach Hair Pomade was popular with teenage boys in the U.S. from
World War II
World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
through the 1960s.
The concept of pomade can be traced back to ancient times. The ancient Egyptians, for instance, used a substance similar to pomade made from animal fats and other ingredients to style their hair and wigs. This practice was not only about appearance but also about hygiene and protection from the harsh sun.
Pomades were much more popular in the 1920s to 1950s than they are today, although they have made a comeback in the 2010s with recent alternations to the marketplace, which feature not only traditionally manufactured petroleum and oil-based pomades but also modern water-soluble pomades. Compared to oil-based pomades, water-based pomades wash out more easily.
Hairstyles from the 20th and 21st centuries involving the use of pomade include the
ducktail
The ducktail is a men's haircut style popular during the 1950s. It is also called the duck's tail, duck's ass, duck's arse, or simply D.A. and is also described as slicked back hair. The hair is pomaded (greased), combed back around the sides, an ...
,
pompadour, and
quiff
The quiff is a hairstyle that combines the 1950s pompadour hairstyle, the 1950s flattop, and sometimes a mohawk. It was born as a post-war reaction to the short and strict haircuts for men. The hairstyle was a staple in the British Teddy Boy ...
. The Pompadour was a cultural phenomenon from the mid-1950s to 1964 and was worn by young actors and those in the new musical genre,
Rock and Roll
Rock and roll (often written as rock & roll, rock-n-roll, and rock 'n' roll) is a Genre (music), genre of popular music that evolved in the United States during the late 1940s and early 1950s. It Origins of rock and roll, originated from African ...
, until it fell out of favour with the advent of the
Beatles
The Beatles were an English Rock music, rock band formed in Liverpool in 1960. The core lineup of the band comprised John Lennon, Paul McCartney, George Harrison and Ringo Starr. They are widely regarded as the Cultural impact of the Beatle ...
. Examples can be seen on
Elvis Presley
Elvis Aaron Presley (January 8, 1935 – August 16, 1977) was an American singer and actor. Referred to as the "King of Rock and Roll", he is regarded as Cultural impact of Elvis Presley, one of the most significant cultural figures of the ...
,
Chuck Berry
Charles Edward Anderson Berry (October 18, 1926 – March 18, 2017) was an American singer, guitarist and songwriter who pioneered rock and roll. Nicknamed the "Honorific nicknames in popular music, Father of Rock and Roll", he refined and de ...
and
James Dean
James Byron Dean (February 8, 1931September 30, 1955) was an American actor. He became one of the most influential figures in Hollywood in the 1950s, despite a career that lasted only five years. His impact on cinema and popular culture was p ...
. In the 1980s,
Rockabilly
Rockabilly is one of the earliest styles of rock and roll music. It dates back to the early 1950s in the United States, especially the Southern United States, South. As a genre, it blends the sound of Western music (North America), Western musi ...
style Rock and Roll and the pompadour had a resurgence and was worn by musicians such as
Brian Setzer
Brian Robert Setzer (born April 10, 1959) is an American guitarist, singer, and songwriter. He found widespread success in the early 1980s with the 1950s-style rockabilly group Stray Cats, and returned to the music scene in the early 1990s with ...
and
Chris Isaak
Christopher Joseph Isaak (born June 26, 1956) is an American singer, songwriter, guitarist and occasional actor. Noted for his reverb-laden rockabilly revivalist style and wide vocal range, he is popularly known for his breakthrough hit and sig ...
.
Modern resurgence
The reemergence of popular pomade use coincides with the rise in popularity of the disconnected
undercut hairstyle. The hairstyle is characterized by buzzed or faded sides, and a much longer top which is disconnected from the side hairs. The undercut hairstyle was first popularized in the early 20th century as affordable barbershops used the newly invented
hair clipper
A hair clipper, often individually called the apparent '' plurale tantum'' hair clippers (in a similar way to ''scissors''), is a specialised tool used to cut human hair. Hair clippers work on the same principle as scissors, but are distinct f ...
to quickly and cheaply shave the sides of men's heads; leaving long top hairs that would be styled with pomade. During the 2010s, the style was featured in many popular period movies, especially
World War II
World War II or the Second World War (1 September 1939 – 2 September 1945) was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War II, Allies and the Axis powers. World War II by country, Nearly all of the wo ...
films, and in shows such as ''
Peaky Blinders
The Peaky Blinders were a street gang based in Birmingham, England, which operated from the 1880s until the 1920s. The group consisted largely of young criminals from lower- to working-class backgrounds. They engaged in robbery, violence, racke ...
''. Celebrities such as athlete
David Beckham
Sir David Robert Joseph Beckham ( ; born 2 May 1975) is an English former professional footballer, the president and co-owner of Inter Miami CF and co-owner of Salford City. Primarily a right winger and known for his range of passing, cross ...
and actor
Brad Pitt
William Bradley Pitt (born December 18, 1963) is an American actor and film producer. In a Brad Pitt filmography, film career spanning more than thirty years, Pitt has received list of awards and nominations received by Brad Pitt, numerous a ...
were seen donning this style of hair.
The heavy hold and slick look of pomade is very well suited to control the long hair of most undercut styles.
Today's pomades fall under two main categories with some subcategories, the traditional oil-based pomade and the newer water-based and gel pomades.
Traditional oil-based pomades are generally subdivided into three more groups: heavy hold, medium hold, and light hold. Heavier pomades generally have a higher wax content and better hold their shape throughout the day. The higher wax content usually results in a lower shine pomade. Light holds, sometimes called a brilliantine, have a higher oil content and therefore are usually more shiny. This type of pomade has a wet look and a lower hold. Some prominent modern oil-based pomades are ''Reuzel, Lockhart's,'' and ''Murray's.''
The water-based pomades are split between gel-based pomades (Orthodox) and water-based (Unorthodox) pomades. Gel pomades come in different degrees of hold. Firm hold pomades dry much more stiff and are better at holding a particular style. However, they are generally less malleable and can only be restyled during the day by wetting the hair. These pomades generally contain hardening agents such as polyvinyl pyrolidone or vinyl pyrolidone. Some popular gel pomades include ''Suavecito'',
''Layrite'' and ''Imperial''.
Unorthodox water-based pomades mimic the malleable qualities of oil-based pomades while still being able to be easily washed out like a gel pomade. Popular unorthodox water-based pomades include ''O'Douds'', ''Shear Revival'', ''Lockharts'', and ''Flagship'' pomades.
Natural versus traditional pomades
The modern preference for natural hair care solutions has given rise to a reevaluation of traditional pomade formulations. While the word "pomade" has historically been associated with a variety of hair styling products, there has been a notable shift away from products containing petroleum. This movement has been driven by an increasing awareness of the problems associated with petroleum-based hair products and a growing demand for natural hair care alternatives that are both safe and effective for users.
Traditional pomades, often petroleum-based, have been found to possess certain qualities that can be detrimental to the hair and scalp health of consumers. A primary issue lies in their tendency to cause buildup, leading to clogged hair follicles, which can impede hair growth and result in scalp ailments. Furthermore, the presence of certain petroleum derivatives has raised concerns over their potential health risks, including the risk of irritation and more serious consequences from prolonged use.
In contrast, natural pomades are typically made from a blend of ingredients like shea butter, beeswax, and a variety of nourishing oils. These ingredients offer a stark difference in both intention and effect, aiming to provide nutrients and support for the hair and scalp, instead of merely offering styling hold. The benefits of natural ingredients over petroleum extend beyond avoiding negative side effects—they often contribute positively to the overall condition of the hair, promoting moisture retention and a healthy scalp environment.
The resurgence of natural hair grease reflects a broader consumer shift towards products that not only perform well but also align with a health-conscious lifestyle and ethical
consumerism
Consumerism is a socio-cultural and economic phenomenon that is typical of industrialized societies. It is characterized by the continuous acquisition of goods and services in ever-increasing quantities. In contemporary consumer society, the ...
. As awareness and education about the benefits of natural hair care ingredients grow, so does the popularity of these safer, more beneficial alternatives in hair styling routines.
See also
*
Beard oil
*
Brilliantine
*
Brylcreem
*
Hair Texture Powder
*
Macassar oil
References
Sources
*
{{Human hair
Hairdressing
Hair care products