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Pleated linen is a form of processing
linen Linen () is a textile made from the fibers of the flax plant. Linen is very strong, absorbent, and dries faster than cotton. Because of these properties, linen is comfortable to wear in hot weather and is valued for use in garments. It also ...
which results in a fabric which is heavily pleated and does not crease like normal linen fabric.


History

The earliest form of pleated linen dates from ancient Egypt and can be seen in a garment known as the
Tarkhan dress The Tarkhan Dress, named for the Tarkhan cemetery south of Cairo in Egypt where it was excavated in 1913, is an over 5000 year old linen garment that was confirmed as the world's oldest piece of women's clothing. The dress coded UC28614B is ...
, which is over 5000 years old and is believed to be one of the oldest dresses in existence. Other examples of pleated linen from ancient history include pleated linen from the tomb of queen
Neferu Neferu ("Beauty") was an ancient Egyptian name. Famous bearers: * Neferu I, a queen of Montuhotep I (11th dynasty) * Neferu or Neferukayet, probably the mother of Intef III (11th dynasty) * Neferu II, a queen of Montuhotep II (11th dynasty) ...
. The Museum of Fine Arts,
Boston Boston (), officially the City of Boston, is the capital city, state capital and List of municipalities in Massachusetts, most populous city of the Commonwealth (U.S. state), Commonwealth of Massachusetts, as well as the cultural and financ ...
has in its collection four excellently preserved pleated linen dresses, all found in 1902-1903 by George A. Reisner at the cemetery of Naga ed-Deir in Egypt. It is not known exactly how the Egyptians pleated linen, but the material may have been "folded, accordion style, then tied, and wetted."


Modern use

In the 1950s the Irish fashion designer, Sybil Connolly, developed a method of hand-pleating linen with the handkerchief linen manufacturer Spence Bryson. Handkerchief linen is a light form of linen, and this pleating process used 9 yards of the material to create 1 yard of pleated linen. The pleating of the fabric meant that unlike other linen garments, ones made with pleated linen were uncrushable, could be packed without becoming creased and maintained their shape. First Lady
Jacqueline Kennedy Jacqueline Lee Kennedy Onassis ( ; July 28, 1929 – May 19, 1994) was an American socialite, writer, photographer, and book editor who served as first lady of the United States from 1961 to 1963, as the wife of President John F. Kennedy. A po ...
selected a pleated linen creation by Sybil Connolly when she sat for an official Aaron Shikler
White House The White House is the official residence and workplace of the president of the United States. It is located at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue Northwest, Washington, D.C., NW in Washington, D.C., and has been the residence of every U.S. preside ...
portrait in 1970. Sybil was reportedly very protective of her pleating method, saying it was a secret she would “carry to the grave.”


Gallery

File:Green Pleated Linen Dress, 'Irish Moss' by Sybil Connolly - Full Length Back.jpg, A moss-green pleated linen evening dress with three-quarter length sleeves and a round high neckline. Designed by Sybil Connolly. File:Grey Linen Pleated Dress designed by Sybil Connolly - Full Length Back.jpg, Grey pleated dress designed by Sybil Connolly. File:Maquette for First Love.jpg, Maquette for a pleated linen cream evening gown named 'First Love' by Sybil Connolly File:Heiress dress 1957 by Sybil Connolly - Full Length Front.jpg, Pleated linen 'Heiress' dress 1957 by Sybil Connolly File:Heiress dress 1957 by Sybil Connolly - Ruffle detail.jpg, 'Heiress' dress 1957 by Sybil Connolly - Ruffle detail File:Lavender evening gown by Sybil Connolly.jpg, Lavender evening gown in pleated linen with 3/4 length sleeves and a frilled neckline by Sybil Connolly


See also

* Delphos gown


References

{{fabric Woven fabrics