Piz Morteratsch
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Piz Morteratsch (3,751 m) is a
mountain A mountain is an elevated portion of the Earth's crust, generally with steep sides that show significant exposed bedrock. Although definitions vary, a mountain may differ from a plateau in having a limited summit area, and is usually higher t ...
in the Bernina Range in
Switzerland Switzerland, officially the Swiss Confederation, is a landlocked country located in west-central Europe. It is bordered by Italy to the south, France to the west, Germany to the north, and Austria and Liechtenstein to the east. Switzerland ...
. It is bordered on the east by the Morteratsch Glacier and on the south-west by the Tschierva Glacier. One of the easier of the higher mountains in the range to climb, the normal route follows that taken by the first ascentionists C. Brügger and P. Gensler with guides Karl Emmermann and Angelo Klaingutti on 11 September 1858. Three of its ridges present greater difficulties and are highly regarded: :*South-south-east ridge (D/D+), first ascent P. J. H. Unna with guides, 1903 :*East-north-east ridge (AD), first ascent of complete ridge, Paul Schucan and A. Pfister, 10 October 1908 (the upper section had been climbed by Max Schintz with guides Alois Pollinger and his son Josef Pollinger of St. Niklaus in the canton Valais in August 1892) :*South-west ridge, (AD), first ascent by T. H. Philpott and Mrs Philpott with guides Peter Jenny and Alexander Fleury in September 1868 The mountain is served by the Boval hut (2,495 m, open 15 March–15 May and 15 June–15 October) and the Tschierva Hut (2,573 m, open end of March–15 May and 15 June–15 October).


References

* Collomb, Robin, ''Bernina Alps'', Goring: West Col Productions, 1988


External links


Piz Morteratsch on SummitPost
Bernina Range Mountains of Graubünden Mountains of the Alps Alpine three-thousanders Engadin Mountains of Switzerland Samedan Pontresina {{Graubünden-mountain-stub