Pit Schubert (2 December 1935 – 28 February 2024) was a German non-fiction author, climber, and

mountaineer Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...

. He was the founder and former head of the safety commission of the

German Alpine Club The German Alpine Club (, DAV for short) is the world's largest climbing association and the eighth-largest sporting association in Germany. It is a member of the German Olympic Sports Confederation and the competent body for sport and competiti ...

(DAV).

Life and career

Schubert was born in Breslau. He started

climbing Climbing is the activity of using one's hands, feet, or other parts of the body to ascend a steep topographical object that can range from the world's tallest mountains (e.g. the eight thousanders) to small boulders. Climbing is done for locom ...

and

mountaineering Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become mounta ...

at the age of 17. He became known for both his first ascents and his adherence to alpine doctrines. Schubert was a qualified engineer, and worked for approximately 15 years in the aerospace industry. In 1968, he was a founding member of the DAV Safety Group, which he chaired until retiring in 2000. He was also president of the

UIAA The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation, commonly known by its French name Union internationale des associations d'alpinisme (UIAA; ), was founded in August 1932 in Chamonix, France when 20 mountaineering associations met for ...

Safety Commission. He worked to standardize climbing equipment, prevented innumerable accidents, and he stated that '' "At that time man was making the first flight to the moon a reality, but we were still using ice axes with wooden shafts – which could break on the first use on the ice – so a lot of things were waiting to be done.” '' Schubert died on 28 February 2024, at the age of 88.

First ascents

*1967: Piz Ciavazes, South Wall, Via Schubert (VI+, 220 m), Sellagruppe,

Dolomites The Dolomites ( ), also known as the Dolomite Mountains, Dolomite Alps or Dolomitic Alps, are a mountain range in northeastern Italy. They form part of the Southern Limestone Alps and extend from the River Adige in the west to the Piave Va ...

*1968: Guglia di Brenta, SW-edge, Schubert / Werner (VI, 380 m), Brenta group, Dolomites *1969: First ascent of the Roc Noir (Khangsar Kang, 7485 m),

Karakorum Karakorum (Khalkha Mongolian: Хархорум, ''Kharkhorum''; Mongolian script:, ''Qaraqorum'') was the capital city, capital of the Mongol Empire between 1235 and 1260 and of the Northern Yuan, Northern Yuan dynasty in the late 14th and 1 ...

*1975: Fleischbank, Neue Ostwand, Pohlke / Schubert (VIII, 360 m),

Kaisergebirge The Kaiser Mountains (, meaning ''Emperor Mountains'') are a mountain range in the Northern Limestone Alps and Eastern Alps. Its main ridges – are the Zahmer Kaiser and south of it the Wilder Kaiser. The mountains are situated in the Austri ...

*1976: First ascent of the south flank of

Annapurna IV Annapurna IV () is a mountain of the Annapurna mountain range in the Himalayas which is located in Nepal Nepal, officially the Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal, is a landlocked country in South Asia. It is mainly situated in the Himala ...

(7525 m),

Annapurna Massif Annapurna (; ) is a massif in the Himalayas in north-central Nepal that includes one peak over , thirteen peaks over , and sixteen more over . The massif is long, and is bounded by the Kali Gandaki Gorge on the west, the Marshyangdi River on t ...

Books

*Moderne Felstechnik, Bergverlag Rother, 1975 *The application of the rope in ice and rock, Bergverlag Rother, 1998, *Alpine rope technique for beginners and advanced, Bergverlag Rother, 2000, *(Alpine club leader extreme) Kaisergebirge, Bergverlag Rudolf Rother, 2000. *Via ferrata, Bergverlag Rother, 2003, *Safety and Risk in Rock and Ice, Bergverlag Rother, Volume 1, 7th Edition, 2004, ; Volume 2, 2002, ; Volume 3, 2006, *Alpine Curriculum, Vol. 5: Safety at the Mountain, BLV Verlagsgesellschaft, 2003, *Anecdotes from the mountain: Amusing stories of mountaineering, climbing and skiing, Bergverlag Rother, 2010,

References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Schubert, Pit 1935 births 2024 deaths German mountain climbers German engineers German non-fiction writers People from the Province of Silesia Writers from Wrocław