Peak Talgar ( ''Talğar Şyñy''; ) is a northern peak in the
Tian Shan
The Tian Shan, also known as the Tengri Tagh or Tengir-Too, meaning the "Mountains of God/Heaven", is a large system of mountain ranges in Central Asia. The highest peak is Jengish Chokusu at high and located in Kyrgyzstan. Its lowest point is ...
mountain range in
Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan, officially the Republic of Kazakhstan, is a landlocked country primarily in Central Asia, with a European Kazakhstan, small portion in Eastern Europe. It borders Russia to the Kazakhstan–Russia border, north and west, China to th ...
, named after
Talgar river and city. It is the highest peak of the
Trans-Ili Alatau
Ile Alatau (, ''Іле Алатауы''), also spelt as Trans-Ili Alatau, is a part of the Northern Tian Shan mountain system (ancient Mount Imeon) in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. It is the northernmost mountain range of Tian Shan, stretching for ...
. Due to its close proximity to the former capital of Kazakhstan,
Almaty
Almaty, formerly Alma-Ata, is the List of most populous cities in Kazakhstan, largest city in Kazakhstan, with a population exceeding two million residents within its metropolitan area. Located in the foothills of the Trans-Ili Alatau mountains ...
, it is a popular mountaineering destination.
Sources differ on Peak Talgar's elevation, but the 4,979 m height is widely quoted. Peak Talgar is ranked 95th by
prominence
In topography, prominence or relative height (also referred to as autonomous height, and shoulder drop in US English, and drop in British English) measures the height of a mountain or hill's summit relative to the lowest contour line encircling ...
.
The summit has precipitous slopes, especially in the west, crevasses and buttresses packed with snow and ice.
On the southern slopes of the Talgar massif is the largest glacier in the Trans-Ili Alatau - the Korzhnevsky glacier. The length of the glacier is about 12 km. The snow boundary on the northern slopes passes at about 3,700-3,900 m.
History
In 1935 H. Rakhimov's group approached Talgar Peak, climbing from the north to the shoulder of the massif, the reached place was named Kopr.
The first ascent of the main summit of Talgar Peak was made in 1938 by a group from Stalinsk (now
Novokuznetsk
Novokuznetsk (, , ; )Чиспияков Э. Ф. (1992) ''Учебник шорского языка''. Кемеровское книжное издательство. p. 27. is a city in Kemerovo Oblast (Kuzbass) in southwestern Siberia, Russia ...
), consisting of L. Kutukhtin, G. Makarov, and I. Kropotov. A local veteran climber A.E. Kolokolnikov gave a detailed description of Talgar Peak.
In 1958 the group led by Snesarev used one of the most difficult routes to date to Talgar Peak on the west face to the south top. Later on this wall two more routes 5B of the touring group and the route of 1966 by M.Akimenkov and I.Meshkov's group, passed in 1978, will be done.
Since 1939, in the gorge of the Middle Talgar River, there was a climbing camp "Metallurg", later renamed "Talgar". The camp existed almost until 1990. During this time, 11 routes were laid to the top of Talgar, not counting the very beautiful and diverse paths to nearby peaks, such as Metallurg (4600m), Kopr (4631m), Chekist (4550m), Aktau (4686m), Sportivnaya (4117m) ), Karaulchatau (4504m).
See also
*
List of Ultras of Central Asia
*
Talgar
References
External links
"Pik Talghar, Kazakhstan" on Peakbagger
Talgar
Four-thousanders of the Tian Shan
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