pha biang

'' Sbai '' ( ; ; Malay: ''Sebai''; Jawi: ''سباي''; , ) or ''phaa biang'' ( ; ) is a shawl-like garment worn by women in Cambodia, Laos, and Thailand to cover the breasts, while in Sumatra, Borneo and the Malay Peninsula, the same term is used to describe a cloth hanging from the shoulders. The ''sbai'' was derived from the Indian ''sari'', the end of which is worn over one shoulder.

Etymology

The term ''sbai'' is the contracted form of vowels which has its ultimately original roots from the Austronesian term ''*cahebay'',Wolff, John U et al. (2010). ''Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. II''. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. p. 838. which was diversified as the first exodus in Taiwan as the Formosan term ''*sapay''Wolff, John U et al. (2010). ''Proto-Austronesian Phonology with Glossary Vol. I''. Ithaca, NY: Cornell Southeast Asia Program Publications. pp. 215, 217, 522. from south China between 5,000–4,500 BCE, and the second exodus to the Philippines, Indonesia, and others occurred around 3,000–2,000 BCE.

Its vowel sequence was contracted from south China to the first exodus: ''*cahebay'*cahbay'*cahpay'*sapay'' (meaning: 'to hang'). According to the Proto-Austronesian Phonology of Cornell University Southeast Asia Program (SEAP), there is the diversity of the term ''*cahebay'' or ''*sapay'' into subgroups of other languages families as follows:

* Austroasiatic languages: ''*lɓak'' ( Dvaravati Old Mon and Nyah Kur), ''cambāy'' (Middle Mon), ''*jbaay'' (Mon), ''*sapay'sĕbai'', ''sbai'sbāy'', ''spai'spiey'' or ''*sapay'spai'spiey'' ( Old Khmer and Modern Khmer), ''phìai'' ( Kuy).
* Austronesian languages: ''*cahebay'łahpay'', ''cahfay'', ''cabfay''. (Proto-Austronesian).
* Formosan languages: ''*sapay'sapai'' ( Puyuma).
* Indo-European languages: ''*səmpay'' ( Sangsari).
* Kra–Dai languages: ''*sapay'sĕbai'', ''sbai'sabai'', ''saphaay'' ( Thai).
* Malayo-Polynesian languages: ''*sapay'sbai'', ''sĕbai'', ''sampai'' ( Malay), ''sampai'' ( Indonesian), ''sampay'', ''sampayán'' ( Tagalog), ''sampe'' ( Makassarese, Serayar), ''sambay'', ''sablay'' ( Maranao), ''sumpáy'' ( Ratahan), ''hafe-hafe'' ( Tondarno), ''cave-'' ( Filipinno), ''sappɛ'' ( Buginese), ''sappɛ-sappɛ'' ( Toba Batak), ''sampay-an'' ( Ngaju), ''sampe-lao'' ( Muna), ''sampi'', ''mi-sampy'', ''sampazana'' ( Malagasy), ''sambay'' ( Maranao).
* Indo-European languages: ''spāy'' (unverified Sanskrit religious vocabulary as assumed by French.) from the Sanskrit of Khmer inscription on the Tāmrakumbha Indian brass water jug (K.669C Line 18) aged 972 CE at Preah Vihear Temple.
* Dravidian languages: ''sālvai'' (Tamil)

History

Sbai is derived from the Indian sari, which may have been introduced to Southeast Asia through the Indianized Kingdoms along with other traditions and elements of Indian culture.

Cambodia

There are related mythologies in Khmer culture concerning the history of ''sbai'', which was likely introduced during the Funan era from India alongside '' chong kben'' in the first century AD. The ''sbai'' is mentioned in the legends of Preah Thong and Neang Neak. In one scene, Preah Thong clings to a piece of cloth worn on the Nagini in order to make the journey to the Nāga's kingdom; that piece of cloth is a ''sbai''. In that tale, the ''sbai'' is symbolic of the tail of Neang Neak, the Nāga princess.

In the Angkorian period, although it was common for men and women to be topless; however, clothes for the upper body were worn: the bas-reliefs of Bayon, Preah Khan, and other Angkorian temples depict women wearing a shawl-like ''sbai'' while religious male figures are adorned with stylized ''sbai''. At Angkor Wat, there are depictions of topless Apsaras holding sbai connected to their '' sampot'', while the northern wall of Angkor Wat depicts a group of ladies wearing long ''sbai'' holding various offerings.

Nowadays, ''sbai'', along with '' chang kben'' and ''sampot'', are regarded as Cambodia's national costumes. Sbai most often used in traditional Khmer weddings with different type and decoration during the rite of () which represents the legend of the foundation of Funan and where the groom holds on to the bride's ''sbai'' as they go to their room. The groom also wears a ''sbai''.

For men, especially Brahmin and Buddhist monk, the ''sbai'' called '' sbong sbai trai chivor,'' and is considered the robe of Hindu and Buddhist monks. For women, ''sbai'' can be freely used and in different ways such as to wrapping it around the body, covering the shoulder, and commonly covering the breast and stomach over the left shoulder. Different styles of ''sbai'' are used by Cambodian women based on their preferences and traditions.

Laos

In Laos, this garment is known as ''phaa biang'' or sabai. It is common for Lao women to wear ''sabai'' as it is considered traditional clothing. A ''sabai'' can also be worn by men in weddings or when attending religious ceremonies. The type of ''sabai'' typically worn by Lao men often has checkered patterns. ''Sabai'' can also be a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, that is draped diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back.Bonnie Ghazarbekian, Jane Siegel, ''Sawaddi, 15 years'', p.130.

Malaysia

In Malaysia, Sebai is a cloth wrapped around the neck to cover the shoulders with both ends hanging on the chest similar to a scarf hung over the shoulders.

Myanmar

The ethnic Mon is also known to have similar tradition of wearing the shawl-like ''sabai'' called ''yat toot'' in Mon language, diagonally over the chest covering one shoulder with one end dropping behind the back like that worn by Lao women. This tradition distinguished them from other ethnic groups in Myanmar. The Mon people of Myanmar and Thailand today were the descendants of various Indianized polities, notably Dvaravati. Artifacts from Dvaravati sites in what is now Thailand depicted a group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''.

Thailand

Artifacts found in ethnic Mon Dvaravati sites depict group of ladies wearing what is similar to ''sabai''.
''Sabai'' (, , ) or pha biang ( ) is shawl-like garment, or breast cloth. Sabais can be used by women or men. The sabai is also known as a long piece of silk, about a foot wide, draped diagonally around the chest by covering one shoulder which its end drops behind the back. Sabais could be worn around the naked chest or on top of another cloth. The practice of wearing Sabai along with Victorian cloth was a common practice during the reign of King Chulalongkorn and lasted until the reign of King Vajiravudh when Westernized clothing became more fashionable.

Gallery

File:Ang Mei, Queen of Cambodia.jpeg, Queen Ang Mey and her daughters wearing ''sbai'' in the 1800s
File:Siamese lady of title, wife of Prime Minister, Bangkok, Siam Wellcome L0055546.jpg, Lady Pun Bunnag, Somdet Chaophraya Borom Maha Sri Suriwongse's wife wearing ''pha biang'', 1866
File:Siamese girl (NYPL Hades-2359944-4044709).jpg, Siamese girl wearing ''pha biang'', 1921
File:Rama III's daughter.jpg, Daughters of King Rama II and King Rama III wearing ''pha biang'' in the 1800s
File:Queen Debsirindra.jpg, Queen Debsirindra wearing ''pha biang'', 1855
File:Ban Khung Taphao05.jpg, Thai children wearing pha nung and ''pha biang''
File:Cambodian couple.jpg, Cambodian bride wearing a ''sbai'' in a wedding ceremony
File:Cambodian American Dance (22662834390).jpg, Dancer wearing ''sbai''

See also

* Sampot Chang Kben
* Khmer Traditional Dress
* Culture of Cambodia
* Chut thai
* Sampot
* Sampot Samloy
*Kemben
* Malaysian cultural outfits
*Sari
* Traditional Thai clothing

References

External links

{{Historical clothing

Shawls and wraps
Cambodian clothing
Folk costumes
Laotian clothing
Malay clothing
Thai clothing
History of Asian clothing