Peter Rannald
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Peter Rannald (died 1609) was a Scottish tailor who worked for
Anne of Denmark Anne of Denmark (; 12 December 1574 – 2 March 1619) was the wife of King James VI and I. She was List of Scottish royal consorts, Queen of Scotland from their marriage on 20 August 1589 and List of English royal consorts, Queen of Engl ...
, the wife of
James VI of Scotland James VI and I (James Charles Stuart; 19 June 1566 – 27 March 1625) was King of Scotland as James VI from 24 July 1567 and King of England and Ireland as James I from the union of the Scottish and English crowns on 24 March 1603 until ...
. He made her gowns and the costumes she wore at masques.


Background

He was probably a relation of Patrick Rannald, who appears in contemporary records as a bonnet-maker in Edinburgh's
Canongate The Canongate is a street and associated district in central Edinburgh, the capital city of Scotland. The street forms the main eastern length of the Royal Mile while the district is the main eastern section of Edinburgh's Old Town. David ...
and as a Deacon of the Edinburgh craft of bonnetmakers. Peter Rannald began working for Anne of Denmark in Edinburgh in the summer of 1591, after her Danish tailor Paul Rey returned home. Paul Rey had made the queen a set of riding clothes in July 1590, including a cloak and
safeguard In international trade law, a safeguard is a restraint to protect home or national industries from foreign competition. In the World Trade Organization (WTO), a member may take a safeguard action, such as restricting imports of a product tempo ...
of Spanish incarnadine satin lined with taffeta.


Fabrics to costume a royal court

Peter Rannald, and two other Scottish tailors,
Peter Sanderson Peter Sanderson Jr. (born April 25, 1952) In print issue #1650 (February 2009), p. 107 is an American comic book critic and Comics historian, historian. He is best known for his work as a researcher at the two main American comics companies, DC ...
and William Simpson, made clothes for the queen as directed by the Danish master of her wardrobe Søren Jonson. The fabrics were mostly sourced by
Robert Jousie Robert Jousie (or Joussie or Jowsie or Jossie; died 1626) was a Scottish textile merchant, financier, and courtier. He was involved in the collection and administration of the English subsidy of James VI. Jousie supplied fabrics used at the bapt ...
, who with his business partner
Thomas Foulis Thomas Foulis (floruit, fl. 1580–1628) was a Scottish goldsmith, mine entrepreneur, and royal financier. Thomas Foulis was an Edinburgh goldsmith and financier, and was involved in the mint and coinage, gold and lead mining, and from May 1591 t ...
, was paid from sums of money given to James VI by
Elizabeth I Elizabeth I (7 September 153324 March 1603) was List of English monarchs, Queen of England and List of Irish monarchs, Ireland from 17 November 1558 until her death in 1603. She was the last and longest reigning monarch of the House of Tudo ...
. Surviving records held by the
National Archives of Scotland The National Archives of Scotland (NAS) is the previous name of the National Records of Scotland (NRS), and are the national archives of Scotland, based in Edinburgh. The NAS claims to have one of the most varied collection of archives in Europ ...
detail the fabrics delivered to Peter Rannald to make the queen's gowns and other garments. The Scottish record does not reveal where Foulis and Jousie bought the fabrics for royal costume, but other sources show that the English merchant
Baptist Hicks Baptist Hicks, 1st Viscount Campden (1551 – 18 October 1629) was an English cloth merchant and politician who sat in the House of Commons between 1621 and 1628. King James I knighted Hicks in 1603 and in 1620 he was created a baronet. He wa ...
was a major supplier to the Scottish court in the 1590s. Hicks wrote that he had supplied materials for the
masque at the baptism of Prince Henry A masque was held at the baptism of Henry Frederick, Prince of Wales, Prince Henry on 30 August 1594 at Stirling Castle. It was written by the Scottish poet William Fowler (makar), William Fowler and Patrick Leslie, 1st Lord Lindores. Prince He ...
in 1594.


Working for a queen

Rannald made clothes which the queen gave to her ladies and serving women as gifts and as a trousseau at their marriages. He made clothes for
Margaret Vinstarr Margaret or Margrethe Vinstarr (fl. 1590–1600), was a Danish courtier in Scotland to Anne of Denmark commemorated by the ballad " The Laird o Logie" for rescuing her imprisoned lover. A gentlewoman at the Scottish court of Anne of Denmark Mar ...
and a
wedding dress A wedding dress or bridal gown is the dress worn by the bride during a wedding ceremony. The color, style and ceremonial importance of the gown can depend on the religion and culture of the wedding participants. Wedding dresses hold a significan ...
of
cloth of gold Cloth of gold or gold cloth (Latin: ''Tela aurea'') is a textile, fabric woven with a gold-wrapped or spinning (textiles), spun weft—referred to as "a spirally spun gold strip". In most cases, the core yarn is silk, wrapped (''filé'') with a ...
and cloth of silver for
Marie Stewart, Countess of Mar Marie Stewart, Countess of Mar (1576–1644) was a Scottish courtier. She was the daughter of Esmé Stewart, 1st Duke of Lennox and Catherine de Balsac d’Entragues (''d''. ''c''.1631) and a favourite of James VI of Scotland. After her marriage, ...
. In September 1591 Peter Rannald made clothes for
masque The masque was a form of festive courtly entertainment that flourished in 16th- and early 17th-century Europe, though it was developed earlier in Italy, in forms including the intermedio (a public version of the masque was the pageant). A mas ...
dancing for Anne of Denmark and some of her courtiers. The costumes involved taffeta with metallic or
tinsel Tinsel is a type of decorative material that mimics the effect of ice, consisting of thin strips of sparkling material attached to a thread. When in long narrow strips not attached to thread, it is called "lametta", and emulates icicles. It was o ...
"tock" fabrics, and six plumes of red and white feathers. The occasion of this masque is not recorded, but other costumed dances and costumes can be associated with the weddings of courtiers. The record for the costume for "maskerye clayths" made by Peter Rannald in September 1591 includes: * 18 ells of red and 18 ells white grey taffeta, * 4 ells of green and 4 ells of blue and 4 ells of yellow taffeta, £126 Scots for all the taffeta. * 18 ells of tock of gold and 18 ells of tock of silver, £70 Scots. * 3 ounces of silk and a half ounce of white silk to work the clothes, £5-6s-8d. Scots * 48 ells of small buckram to line the clothes, £43-4s. Scots. * 6 six great "plumages" red and white, £27 Scots. In October 1591 Rannald sewed gold
passementerie Passementerie (, ) or passementarie is the art of making elaborate trimmings or edgings (in French, ) of applied braid, gold or silver cord, embroidery, colored silk, or beads for clothing or furnishings. Styles of passementerie include the tass ...
onto a gown made from grey velvet from Denmark. The fabric was probably sent to Anne by her mother,
Sophie of Mecklenburg-Güstrow Sophie of Mecklenburg-Güstrow (''Sophia''; 4 September 1557 – 4 October 1631) was List of Danish royal consorts, Queen of Denmark and List of Norwegian royal consorts, Norway by marriage to Frederick II of Denmark. She was the mother of King ...
. In May 1592, Rannald was given London black cloth to make a cloak for himself, and in August 1594 fine black velvet for a garment, perhaps to wear at the baptism of Prince Henry at
Stirling Castle Stirling Castle, located in Stirling, is one of the largest and most historically and architecturally important castles in Scotland. The castle sits atop an Intrusive rock, intrusive Crag and tail, crag, which forms part of the Stirling Sill ge ...
.


Rannald family connections

Another Edinburgh tailor, Nicoll Spence or Spens, had worked with Paul Rey and in 1591 made clothes for Anne of Denmark's Danish gentlewomen, Sophie Kaas and Katrina Skinkell. He had worked for
Mary, Queen of Scots Mary, Queen of Scots (8 December 1542 – 8 February 1587), also known as Mary Stuart or Mary I of Scotland, was List of Scottish monarchs, Queen of Scotland from 14 December 1542 until her forced abdication in 1567. The only surviving legit ...
, and
Margaret Stewart, Mistress of Ochiltree Margaret Stewart, Mistress of Ochiltree (died 1627) was a courtier in the household of Anne of Denmark in Scotland and looked after her children Prince Henry, Princess Elizabeth, and Charles I of England Career Margaret was the daughter of He ...
, who became an important figure in the Anne of Denmarks's household. When Nicoll Spens died in 1599, Thomas Rannald, a hatmaker, and Nicoll Rannald were witnesses to his will. Spens was owed money for making clothes for
Dorothea Stewart, Countess of Gowrie Dorothea Stewart, Countess of Gowrie (died ''after'' 1600) was a Scottish aristocrat. The dates of the birth and death of Dorothea Stewart are unknown. Early life She was the oldest daughter of Henry Stewart, 1st Lord Methven and Janet Stewart ...
, and
Marie Ruthven, Countess of Atholl Marie Ruthven, Countess of Atholl, was a Scottish aristocrat. She was a daughter of William Ruthven, 1st Earl of Gowrie, and Dorothea Stewart, the oldest daughter of Henry Stewart, 1st Lord Methven, and Janet Stewart, a daughter of John Stewart, ...
. On 3 April 1603, Thomas Rannald joined the royal household as master hat-maker and haberdasher as the successor of John Hepburn.


Death

Peter Rannald died in 1609. His widow Jonnett Birs petitioned for payment of £1,300 Scots, a sum recorded on a royal precept or order dating from 1595. King James asked for confirmation that such an old debt was still outstanding.
David Masson David Mather Masson (2 December 18226 October 1907), was a Scotland, Scottish academic, supporter of women's suffrage, literary critic and historian. Biography Masson was born in Aberdeen, the son of Sarah Mather and William Masson, a sto ...
, ''Register of the Privy Council of Scotland, 1607-1610'', vol. 8 (Edinburgh, 1887), pp. 606-7.


References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Rannald, Peter Household of Anne of Denmark 16th-century Scottish businesspeople 16th-century Scottish tailors 16th-century fashion 1609 deaths Material culture of royal courts