The Pemigewasset Wilderness is a federally designated
Wilderness Area in the heart of
New Hampshire's
White Mountains. It is a part of the
White Mountain National Forest. It is New Hampshire's largest wilderness area.
The Wilderness Area consists of the upper watershed of the
East Branch of the Pemigewasset River, and includes the
Franconia,
Twin,
Zealand, and
Hancock mountain ranges, but excludes the summits of the ranges and the trail along them. As a result of the region's rugged character, the Pemigewasset Wilderness is a popular recreation area; its large trail network receives heavy use, in the form of
hiking,
cross-country skiing
Cross-country skiing is a form of skiing where skiers rely on their own locomotion to move across snow-covered terrain, rather than using ski lifts or other forms of assistance. Cross-country skiing is widely practiced as a sport and recreation ...
, and others, throughout the year.
The area is also noted for its ecological recovery from the
logging
Logging is the process of cutting, processing, and moving trees to a location for transport. It may include skidding, on-site processing, and loading of trees or logs onto trucks or skeleton cars.
Logging is the beginning of a supply chain ...
era of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries. After years of unchecked
clear-cutting, during which the zone had the largest logging railroad system in the White Mountains, the area's inclusion in the
White Mountain National Forest and later designation as a Wilderness Area has led to a substantial rebound in the forest ecosystem.
Geography
The Pemigewasset Wilderness consists of two horseshoe-shaped "lobes" characterized by relatively low, wet river valleys surrounded by high mountain ridges.
[Daniell, Gene, and Smith, Steven D. ''White Mountain Guide''. 27th ed. AMC Books, 2003. . 150]
Western lobe

The western lobe is enclosed by the Franconia, Twin, and Bond ranges, though the top of the ridge defining the ranges is outside the Wilderness boundary. Moving clockwise from the south near the Lincoln Woods trailhead, the ridge ascends
Potash Knob
Potash () includes various mined and manufactured salt (chemistry), salts that contain potassium in water-solute, soluble form.[Whaleback Mountain
Whaleback Mountain is a summit in British Columbia, Canada.
Description
Whaleback Mountain is located in Yoho National Park, in the Waputik Mountains of the Canadian Rockies. Precipitation runoff from Whaleback drains into tributaries of the Yo ...]
(2586 ft/1093 m) before reaching
Franconia Ridge itself at the ledgy summit of
Mount Flume (4328 ft/1319 m).
[USGS 7.5 Minute Topographic Map Series: Franconia, Lincoln, Crawford Notch, Mount Osceola, Mount Carrigain, South Twin Mountain Quadrangles] From Mount Flume, the ridge dips and rises between peaks in a parabolic manner, flirting with treeline in the cols and running open and exposed at the summits. Peaks crossed at this point of the ridge after Flume include
Mount Liberty (4459 ft/1359 m), and
Little Haystack Mountain
Little Haystack Mountain is a peak on the Franconia Range of the White Mountains located in Grafton County, New Hampshire, United States. It is flanked to the north by Mount Lincoln and to the southwest by Mount Liberty.
The Appalachian Trail ...
(4780 ft/1457 m), where the ridge rises out of the scrub for good.
As it heads north, the ridge assumes a "knife-edge" character, dropping off dramatically on both sides as it crosses
Mount Lincoln (5089 ft/1551 m) before reaching its high point at the summit of
Mount Lafayette
Mount Lafayette is a mountain at the northern end of the Franconia Range in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, United States. It lies in the town of Franconia in Grafton County, and appears on the New England Fifty Finest list of the most ...
(5249 ft/1600 m).

From the summit of Lafayette, the ridge, thence known as Garfield Ridge, makes its way toward the
Twin Range. It passes over a small subsidiary peak of Lafayette before descending abruptly into the scrub below timberline; after several small knobs, the summits of
Garfield (4500 ft/1372 m) and
Galehead
Galehead Mountain is a mountain located in Grafton County, New Hampshire. The mountain is part of the Twin Range of the White Mountains. Galehead is flanked to the east by South Twin Mountain, and to the west by Mount Garfield. The summit is ...
(4024 ft/1227 m) mountains are crossed, and the ridge breaks into the open and begins a steep climb to the summit of
South Twin Mountain
South Twin Mountain is a mountain located in Grafton County, New Hampshire. The mountain is part of the Twin Range of the White Mountains. South Twin forms the high point of a north-south ridge, with North Twin Mountain lying approximately one ...
(4902 ft/1494 m).
[Daniell and Smith 167] As a spur ridge extends north to
North Twin Mountain (4761 ft/1451 m), the main ridge makes a southward turn and runs in the open to the summit of
Mount Guyot (4580 ft/1396 m).
[Daniell and Smith 173] Enclosing the western lobe, the Bond Range extends south from Guyot, passing over
Mount Bond
Mount Bond is a mountain located in Grafton County, New Hampshire, United States. The mountain is named after Professor George P. Bond (1825–1865) of Harvard University, and is the southernmost extension of the Twin Range of the White Mount ...
(4698 ft/1432 m) and Bondcliff (4265 ft/1300 m) before descending sharply into the woods to the
East Branch of the Pemigewasset.
[Daniell and Smith 196-197]
In the center of the western lobe is the long, broad ridge of
Owl's Head (4025 ft/1227 m), which rises abruptly from the valley of
Lincoln Brook
Lincoln most commonly refers to:
* Abraham Lincoln (1809–1865), the sixteenth president of the United States
* Lincoln, England, cathedral city and county town of Lincolnshire, England
* Lincoln, Nebraska, the capital of Nebraska, U.S.
* Linc ...
and extends north for roughly 3 miles (4.8 km) to a low saddle connecting it to Garfield Ridge.
Almost completely encircling Owl's Head are two tributaries of the East Branch, Lincoln Brook and
Franconia Branch
Franconia (german: Franken, ; Franconian dialect: ''Franggn'' ; bar, Frankn) is a region of Germany, characterised by its culture and Franconian dialect (German: ''Fränkisch'').
The three administrative regions of Lower, Middle and Uppe ...
; Lincoln Brook drains the east face of
Franconia Ridge, while Franconia Branch drains the southern and western faces of the Twin and Bond Ranges through Twin, Redrock, and Hellgate Brooks.
Eastern lobe
The eastern lobe of the Pemigewasset Wilderness follows fewer well-defined topographic features than the western lobe. The "boundary wall" formed in the west by the
Franconia,
Twin, and Bond Range is present in the eastern lobe to a degree, but is less obvious.
From Mount Guyot, the eastern lobe's main ridge continues east rather than following the Bond Range to the south. Passing over
Zealand Mountain (4260 ft/1298 m) and a small knob known as Zeacliff Pond Peak (4060 ft/1237 m), the ridge reaches an abrupt end at
Zeacliff, a dramatic overlook into
Zealand Notch
Zealand Notch (el. 2457 ft./749 m.) is a mountain pass in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, United States. It is located in the towns of Bethlehem and Lincoln, near the northeastern corner of the Pemigewasset Wilderness. The center of th ...
.
[Smith, Steven D., and Mike Dickerman. The 4000 Footers of the White Mountains. Littleton, NH: Bondcliff Books, 2001. 134-135] From Zeacliff, the Wilderness Boundary plunges into the notch following the Twinway trail, and follows the Ethan Pond Trail into the flatter sections of the lobe.
After a few miles, the boundary picks up the ridge of Mount Lowell, and runs over
Mount Nancy (3926 ft/1197 m), Mount Anderson (3740 ft/1140 m), and near the summit of Lowell itself (3740 ft/1140 m) before crossing
Carrigain Notch
Mount Carrigain is a mountain located in Grafton County, New Hampshire. The mountain is named after Phillip Carrigain, NH Secretary of State (1805–10), and is on the south side of the Pemigewasset Wilderness, the source of the East Branch of ...
and rising to Vose Spur (3862 ft/1177 m) and the summit of
Mount Carrigain (4700 ft/1433 m).
[Daniell and Smith 206-207] Confined to a more obvious ridge at this point, the boundary passes over The Captain (3540 ft/1079 m) and the main summit of
Mount Hancock (4420 ft/1347 m) before descending to the East Branch across from Bondcliff via Mount Hitchcock (3620 ft/1103 m) and its several small knobs. Note that the boundary as implemented excludes the Appalachian Trail and the summits it passes over as well as Mount Carrigain.
The East Branch of the Pemigewasset drains the eastern lobe through a number of small streams. Mounts Hancock and Carrigain are drained by Crystal, Carrigain, and Notch Brooks, while the center drains to the
North Fork of the Pemigewasset and Shoal Pond Brook.
Geology
While most of the White Mountains consist of highly
metamorphicized schists and
gneisses formed during the
Acadian Orogeny, the Pemigewasset Wilderness is part of the White Mountain
Batholith
A batholith () is a large mass of intrusive igneous rock (also called plutonic rock), larger than in area, that forms from cooled magma deep in Earth's crust. Batholiths are almost always made mostly of felsic or intermediate rock types, such ...
and is therefore composed primarily of the
igneous White Mountain
plutonic-volcanic
rock series.
[Billings, Marland P. The Geology of New Hampshire: Part II-Bedrock Geology. Concord, New Hampshire: The New Hampshire State Planning and Development Commission, 1980. 69-88.]
The Franconia and Twin Ranges form a massive
ring dike in the western half of the White Mountain Batholith made up of a
granite porphyry backbone that emerged roughly 170 million years ago.
["Geographic Marvels of the Northeast." AMC Outdoors. Sept. 2006. AMC. 25 Mar. 2007 .] This rock appears pink, red, green or grey, with medium-sized
phenocrysts. Such phenocrysts, usually
quartz or
feldspar, make up 20%-40% of the rock, and are embedded in a
groundmass of similar composition. Enclosed by the ring dike and extending in to the flat floor of the wilderness is a large area of
biotite
Biotite is a common group of phyllosilicate minerals within the mica group, with the approximate chemical formula . It is primarily a solid-solution series between the iron-endmember annite, and the magnesium-endmember phlogopite; more alumino ...
and
amphibole
Amphibole () is a group of inosilicate minerals, forming prism or needlelike crystals, composed of double chain tetrahedra, linked at the vertices and generally containing ions of iron and/or magnesium in their structures. Its IMA symbol is A ...
granite.
[Creasy, John. "BEDROCK GEOLOGY OF THE EASTERN WHITE MOUNTAIN BATHOLITH, NORTH CONWAY AREA, NEW HAMPSHIRE." Bates College Geology. Bates College. 25 Mar. 2007 .]
See also
*
List of U.S. Wilderness Areas
*
Wilderness Act
References
External links
Pemigewasset Wilderness- Wilderness.net
Roadless Area Profiles- USDA Forest Service
{{Merrimack River
Wilderness areas of New Hampshire
White Mountain National Forest
White Mountains (New Hampshire)
Protected areas of Grafton County, New Hampshire