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Parfums Caron is a French perfume house founded in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff. Over the course of the years, many Caron Perfumes were created. As of 2019, the brand is owned by Luxembourg-based Cattleya.


Foundation

Caron was founded in 1904 by Ernest Daltroff (1867-1941) who chose a short name, easy to remember in several languages while still being associated with France. The house was first located at 10
rue de la Paix The Rue de la Paix (English: Peace Street; ) is a fashionable shopping street in the centre of Paris. Located in the 2nd arrondissement, running north from the Place Vendôme and ending at the Opéra Garnier, it is best known for its jewellers ...
in Paris. In 1906, Daltroff met Félicie Wanpouille (1874-1967), a young milliner who also worked on rue de la Paix, she introduced him to her clients, and soon became his business partner and muse. He created the perfumes and she created the bottles. Perfumes and powders were distributed in France through a network of Parisian department stores, then as early as 1923 Caron entered the American market.


Perfumes

The house's first famous perfume, ''Narcisse Noir'' (1911), reached Hollywood. In the 1950s, on the set of ''
Sunset Boulevard Sunset Boulevard is a boulevard in the central and western part of Los Angeles, California, United States, that stretches from the Pacific Coast Highway (California), Pacific Coast Highway in Pacific Palisades, Los Angeles, Pacific Palisad ...
'',
Gloria Swanson Gloria Mae Josephine Swanson (March 27, 1899April 4, 1983) was an American actress. She first achieved fame acting in dozens of silent films in the 1920s and was nominated three times for the Academy Award for Best Actress, most famously for h ...
pronounces the name of the perfume. The title of the 1947 film
Black Narcissus ''Black Narcissus'' is a 1947 British psychological drama film jointly written, directed and produced by Michael Powell and Emeric Pressburger, based on the 1939 novel by Rumer Godden. It stars Deborah Kerr, Sabu, David Farrar, and Flora R ...
refers to this very perfume. First created in powder form, the perfume ''N'Aimez Que Moi'' was launched in 1917, designed for young women waiting for the return of their beloved who had gone to war. In 1919,
World War I World War I or the First World War (28 July 1914 – 11 November 1918), also known as the Great War, was a World war, global conflict between two coalitions: the Allies of World War I, Allies (or Entente) and the Central Powers. Fighting to ...
was over and women discovered the pleasure of smoking tobacco. Caron invented the perfume ''Tabac Blond''. In 1932, after the exploits of the first female pilots, Daltroff launched ''En Avion''. As women discover sport and speed, Daltroff created a light and dynamic fragrance that reflected the new lifestyle. In 1933, he launched Fleurs de Rocaille, which represents the modern femininity of the 1930s. In 1934, at a time when men mainly used colognes, Daltroff, who was always convinced that a man should wear perfume, boldly launched a masculine fragrance ''Pour un homme''. After World War II, in 1954, Félicie Wanpouille launched a new perfume called ''Poivre''. The production of Caron fragrance bottles was at times entrusted to workshops such as
Baccarat Baccarat or baccara (; ) is a card game. It is now mainly played at casinos, but formerly popular at house-parties and private gaming rooms. The game's origins are a mixture of precursors from China, Japan, and Korea, which then gained popularit ...
or Daum. The house is also known for its loose powders scented with Bulgarian Rose, the ''Pompon Poudre''.


Business

Caron is one of the oldest French perfume houses still exclusively dedicated to perfume. After World War I, in 1918, Ernest Daltroff was invited to the Bronx International Exposition of Science, Arts and Industries in New York with his competitor
François Coty François Coty (; born Joseph Marie François Spoturno ; 3 May 1874 – 25 July 1934) was a French perfumer, businessman, newspaper publisher, politician and patron of the arts. He was the founder of the Coty, Coty perfume company, today a multin ...
, where he won the prize for the most go-ahead company, opening up the American market for him for the
Interwar period In the history of the 20th century, the interwar period, also known as the interbellum (), lasted from 11 November 1918 to 1 September 1939 (20 years, 9 months, 21 days) – from the end of World War I (WWI) to the beginning of World War II ( ...
.. In 1923 a New York affiliate, "The Caron Corporation", opened a store on
Fifth Avenue Fifth Avenue is a major thoroughfare in the borough (New York City), borough of Manhattan in New York City. The avenue runs south from 143rd Street (Manhattan), West 143rd Street in Harlem to Washington Square Park in Greenwich Village. The se ...
, and a factory outside the city. In 1925, three quarters of Caron's total business was in the United States. In 1939, Ernest Daltroff moved to New York and left the management in France to Félicité Wanpouille. During the
German military administration in occupied France during World War II The Military Administration in France (; ) was an Military Administration (Nazi Germany), interim occupation authority established by Nazi Germany during World War II to administer the occupied zone in areas of northern and western French Third ...
, the company was heavily taxed and in 1941, Caron risked
spoliation Spoliation may refer to: *Looting * Spoliation of evidence in a criminal investigation * The deconstruction of buildings for Places and organizations * Front Multiculturel Anti Spoliation * Sanctuary of the Spoliation * Spoliation Advisory Pane ...
. As soon as the war ended, Félicité Wanpouille, who ran the company with her husband Jean Bergaud and perfumer Michel Morsetti trained by Daltroff, moved Caron to sumptuous quarters decorated by
Maison Jansen Maison Jansen (; ) was a Paris-based interior decoration office founded in 1880 by Dutch-born Jean-Henri Jansen. Jansen is considered the first truly global design firm, serving clients in Europe, Latin America, North America and the Middle East. ...
at 10
Place Vendôme The Place Vendôme (), earlier known as the Place Louis-le-Grand, and also as the Place Internationale, is a square in the 1st arrondissement of Paris, France, located to the north of the Tuileries Gardens and east of the Église de la Madelein ...
. When she retired in 1962, the company was bought by Revillon Frères. President Jean-Paul Elkann sold the salons on Place Vendôme and trivialised the brand, which nevertheless remained in French hands in spite of an offer to purchase 80,000 shares by Robins of Richmond, Virginia. In 1979, manager Henri Bertrand, who came from
Jean Patou Jean Patou (; 27 September 1887 – 8 March 1936) was a French fashion designer, and founder of the Jean Patou brand. Early life Patou was born in Paris, France in 1880. Patou's family's business was tanning and furs. Patou worked with his u ...
, wished for a return to the brand's original values and opened a boutique on
Avenue Montaigne The Avenue Montaigne () is a street in the 8th arrondissement of Paris, 8th arrondissement of Paris, France. Origin of the name The Avenue Montaigne was originally called the Allée des Veuves ("Widows' Alley") because women in mourning gathered ...
. In 1986, during the Révillon-Cora merger-acquisition, the group did not wish to support its manager in the prestigious direction he had taken.. In 1997 Caron was sold to L.T. Piver and the following year was acquired by
Ales Groupe Ales Groupe is a cosmetics and fragrances company based in Paris Paris () is the Capital city, capital and List of communes in France with over 20,000 inhabitants, largest city of France. With an estimated population of 2,048,472 resident ...
, which modernised some fragrances and insisted on quality and natural ingredients, opened a boutique near the
Élysée Palace The Élysée Palace (, ) is the official residence of the President of France, President of the French Republic in Paris. Completed in 1722, it was built for Louis Henri de La Tour d'Auvergne, a nobleman and army officer who had been appointed g ...
and another on
Madison Avenue Madison Avenue is a north-south avenue in the borough of Manhattan in New York City, New York, that carries northbound one-way traffic. It runs from Madison Square (at 23rd Street) to meet the southbound Harlem River Drive at 142nd Stree ...
in New York, also aiming at opening the Middle East market, and targeting the Russian one. Ales sold the brand at the end of 2018 to Cattleya Finance. Caron received the "Living Heritage Company" label from France and is a member of the
Comité Colbert Comité Colbert is a French association "to promote the concept of luxury." It was founded in 1954 by Jean-Jacques Guerlain, son of French perfumer Jacques Guerlain. The association has more than 100 members, most of which are French companies in ...
. Today, Caron remains true to its heritage, combining classics with contemporary trends. Collections such as La Collection Merveilleuse and La Collection Privée include both reissues of iconic fragrances and new compositions.


Bibliography

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References


External links

* {{Authority control Perfume houses History of cosmetics French companies established in 1904 Comité Colbert members