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The Ozarks, also known as the Ozark Mountains, Ozark Highlands or Ozark Plateau, is a
physiographic region Physiographic regions are a means of defining Earth's landforms into independently distinct, mutually exclusive areas, independent of political boundaries. It is based upon the classic three-tiered approach by Nevin M. Fenneman in 1916, that separ ...
in the
U.S. state In the United States, a state is a constituent political entity, of which there are 50. Bound together in a political union, each state holds governmental jurisdiction over a separate and defined geographic territory where it shares its so ...
s of
Missouri Missouri (''see #Etymology and pronunciation, pronunciation'') is a U.S. state, state in the Midwestern United States, Midwestern region of the United States. Ranking List of U.S. states and territories by area, 21st in land area, it border ...
,
Arkansas Arkansas ( ) is a landlocked state in the West South Central region of the Southern United States. It borders Missouri to the north, Tennessee and Mississippi to the east, Louisiana to the south, Texas to the southwest, and Oklahoma ...
, and
Oklahoma Oklahoma ( ; Choctaw language, Choctaw: , ) is a landlocked U.S. state, state in the South Central United States, South Central region of the United States. It borders Texas to the south and west, Kansas to the north, Missouri to the northea ...
, as well as a small area in the southeastern corner of
Kansas Kansas ( ) is a landlocked U.S. state, state in the Midwestern United States, Midwestern region of the United States. It borders Nebraska to the north; Missouri to the east; Oklahoma to the south; and Colorado to the west. Kansas is named a ...
. The Ozarks cover a significant portion of northern Arkansas and most of the southern half of Missouri, extending from
Interstate 40 Interstate 40 (I-40) is a major east–west transcontinental Interstate Highway System, Interstate Highway in the Southeastern United States, southeastern and Southwestern United States, southwestern portions of the United States. At a leng ...
in central Arkansas to
Interstate 70 Interstate 70 (I-70) is a major east–west Interstate Highway in the United States that runs from Interstate 15, I-15 near Cove Fort, Utah, to Interstate 695 (Maryland), I-695 and Maryland Route 570 (MD 570) in Woodlawn, Baltimo ...
in central Missouri. There are two mountain ranges in the Ozarks: the
Boston Mountains The Boston Mountains is a Level III ecoregion designated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in the U.S. states of Arkansas and Oklahoma. Part of the Ozarks, the Boston Mountains are a deeply dissected plateau. The ecoregion is steepe ...
of Arkansas and Oklahoma, as well as the
St. Francois Mountains The St. Francois Mountains in southeast Missouri are a mountain range of Precambrian igneous rock, igneous mountains rising over the The Ozarks, Ozark Plateau. This range is one of the oldest exposures of igneous rock, igneous rock (geology), rock ...
of Missouri. Wahzhazhe Summit (formerly known as Buffalo Lookout), is the highest point in the Ozarks at , and is located in the Boston Mountains, in the westernmost part of
Newton County, Arkansas Newton County is a County (United States), county in the U.S. state of Arkansas. As of the 2020 United States census, 2020 census, the population was 7,225. The county seat is Jasper, Arkansas, Jasper. Newton County is Arkansas's 46th county, ...
, east of Boston, Madison County, Arkansas. Geologically, the area is a broad
dome A dome () is an architectural element similar to the hollow upper half of a sphere. There is significant overlap with the term cupola, which may also refer to a dome or a structure on top of a dome. The precise definition of a dome has been a m ...
with the exposed core in the ancient St. Francois Mountains. The Ozarks cover nearly , making it the most extensive
highland Highlands or uplands are areas of high elevation such as a mountainous region, elevated mountainous plateau or high hills. Generally, ''upland'' refers to a range of hills, typically from up to , while ''highland'' is usually reserved for range ...
region between the
Appalachians The Appalachian Mountains, often called the Appalachians, are a mountain range in eastern to northeastern North America. The term "Appalachian" refers to several different regions associated with the mountain range, and its surrounding terrain ...
and
Rockies The Rocky Mountains, also known as the Rockies, are a major mountain range and the largest mountain system in North America. The Rocky Mountains stretch in straight-line distance from the northernmost part of Western Canada, to New Mexico in ...
. Together with the
Ouachita Mountains The Ouachita Mountains (), simply referred to as the Ouachitas, are a mountain range in western Arkansas and southeastern Oklahoma. They are formed by a thick succession of highly deformed Paleozoic strata constituting the Ouachita Fold and Thru ...
, the area is known as the
U.S. Interior Highlands The U.S. Interior Highlands is a mountainous region in the Central United States spanning northern and western Arkansas, southern Missouri, eastern Oklahoma, and southern Illinois. The name is designated by the United States Geological Survey to ...
. The Salem Plateau, named after
Salem, Missouri Salem is the county seat of Dent County, Missouri, Dent County, Missouri, United States. The population was 4,608 at the 2020 United States census, 2020 census, which allows Salem to become a List of cities in Missouri, Class 3 city in Missouri; ...
, makes up the largest geologic area of the Ozarks. The second largest is the Springfield Plateau, named after
Springfield, Missouri Springfield is the List of cities in Missouri, third most populous city in the U.S. state of Missouri and the county seat of Greene County, Missouri, Greene County. The city's population was 169,176 at the 2020 United States census, 2020 censu ...
, nicknamed the "Queen City of the Ozarks". On the northern Ozark border are the cities of
St. Louis St. Louis ( , sometimes referred to as St. Louis City, Saint Louis or STL) is an independent city in the U.S. state of Missouri. It lies near the confluence of the Mississippi and the Missouri rivers. In 2020, the city proper had a populatio ...
and
Columbia, Missouri Columbia is a city in Missouri, United States. It was founded in 1821 as the county seat of Boone County, Missouri, Boone County and had a population of 126,254 as recorded in the 2020 United States census, making it the List of cities in Misso ...
. Significant Ozark cities in Arkansas include
Fayetteville Fayetteville may refer to: *Fayetteville, Alabama *Fayetteville, Arkansas ** The Fayetteville Formation *Fayetteville, Georgia *Fayetteville, Illinois *Fayetteville, Indiana *Fayetteville, Washington County, Indiana *Fayetteville, Missouri *Fayette ...
, Bentonville, Springdale, Eureka Springs, and Fort Smith. Branson, just north of the Arkansas–Missouri border, is a tourist destination where Ozark culture is popularized.


Etymology

The
toponym Toponymy, toponymics, or toponomastics is the study of ''wikt:toponym, toponyms'' (proper names of places, also known as place names and geographic names), including their origins, meanings, usage, and types. ''Toponym'' is the general term for ...
''Ozarks'' may derive from an
English-language English is a West Germanic language that developed in early medieval England and has since become a English as a lingua franca, global lingua franca. The namesake of the language is the Angles (tribe), Angles, one of the Germanic peoples th ...
adaptation of the
French French may refer to: * Something of, from, or related to France ** French language, which originated in France ** French people, a nation and ethnic group ** French cuisine, cooking traditions and practices Arts and media * The French (band), ...
abbreviation (short for , meaning "of/at/to the Arkansas (Quapaw) lural). In the decades prior to the
French and Indian War The French and Indian War, 1754 to 1763, was a colonial conflict in North America between Kingdom of Great Britain, Great Britain and Kingdom of France, France, along with their respective Native Americans in the United States, Native American ...
of 1754 to 1763, referred to
France France, officially the French Republic, is a country located primarily in Western Europe. Overseas France, Its overseas regions and territories include French Guiana in South America, Saint Pierre and Miquelon in the Atlantic Ocean#North Atlan ...
's
trading post A trading post, trading station, or trading house, also known as a factory in European and colonial contexts, is an establishment or settlement where goods and services could be traded. Typically a trading post allows people from one geogr ...
at
Arkansas Post The Arkansas Post (; ), officially the Arkansas Post National Memorial, was the first European colonization of the Americas, European settlement located along the Mississippi River, in the Mississippi Alluvial Plain, and in the present-day U. ...
, located in the wooded
Arkansas Delta The Arkansas Delta is one of the six natural regions of the state of Arkansas. Willard B. Gatewood Jr., author of ''The Arkansas Delta: Land of Paradox'', says that rich cotton lands of the Arkansas Delta make that area "The Deepest of the Deep ...
lowland area above the confluence of the
Arkansas River The Arkansas River is a major tributary of the Mississippi River. It generally flows to the east and southeast as it traverses the U.S. states of Colorado, Kansas, Oklahoma, and Arkansas. The river's source basin lies in Colorado, specifically ...
with the
Mississippi River The Mississippi River is the main stem, primary river of the largest drainage basin in the United States. It is the second-longest river in the United States, behind only the Missouri River, Missouri. From its traditional source of Lake Ita ...
. Another possible etymological origin might be the French phrase , meaning "
and And or AND may refer to: Logic, grammar and computing * Conjunction, connecting two words, phrases, or clauses * Logical conjunction in mathematical logic, notated as "∧", "⋅", "&", or simple juxtaposition * Bitwise AND, a Boolean oper ...
of the arches", in reference to the dozens of natural bridges formed by erosion and collapsed caves in the Ozark region. These include Clifty Hollow Natural Bridge (actually a series of arches) in Missouri,Watkins, Conor
"Ozarks geology: Clifty Creek Natural Area includes natural bridge"
, ''The Ozarks Chronicle'', Rolla, Mo.
and Alum Cove in the
Ozark–St. Francis National Forest The Ozark – St. Francis National Forest is a United States National Forest that is located in the state of Arkansas. It is composed of two separate forests, Ozark National Forest in the Ozark Mountains; and St. Francis National Forest on Crow ...
. By the early 20th century, the term "Ozarks" had entered common parlance.McMillen, Margot Ford. ''A to Z Missouri: The Dictionary of Missouri Place Names'', Columbia, Missouri: Pebble Publishing, 1996.


Physiographic subregions

The Ozarks consist of five physiographic subregions: the
Boston Mountains The Boston Mountains is a Level III ecoregion designated by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) in the U.S. states of Arkansas and Oklahoma. Part of the Ozarks, the Boston Mountains are a deeply dissected plateau. The ecoregion is steepe ...
of north Arkansas and
Cookson Hills The Cookson Hills are in eastern Oklahoma. They are an extension of the Boston Mountains of Arkansas to the east and the southwestern margin of the Ozark Plateau. They lie generally between Stilwell, Sallisaw and Tahlequah. The area became part ...
of east Oklahoma; the Springfield Plateau of southwest Missouri, northeast Oklahoma, and northwest Arkansas and including Springfield, Joplin and Monett/
Aurora An aurora ( aurorae or auroras), also commonly known as the northern lights (aurora borealis) or southern lights (aurora australis), is a natural light display in Earth's sky, predominantly observed in high-latitude regions (around the Arc ...
in Missouri,
Tahlequah Tahlequah ( ; , ) is a city in Cherokee County, Oklahoma located at the foothills of the Ozark Mountains. It is part of the Green Country region of Oklahoma and was established as a capital of the 19th-century Cherokee Nation in 1839, as par ...
in Oklahoma, and
Fayetteville Fayetteville may refer to: *Fayetteville, Alabama *Fayetteville, Arkansas ** The Fayetteville Formation *Fayetteville, Georgia *Fayetteville, Illinois *Fayetteville, Indiana *Fayetteville, Washington County, Indiana *Fayetteville, Missouri *Fayette ...
and
Harrison Harrison may refer to: People * Harrison (name) * Harrison family of Virginia, United States Places Australia * Harrison, Australian Capital Territory, suburb in the Canberra district of Gungahlin Canada * Inukjuak, Quebec, or "Port H ...
in Arkansas; the White River Hills along the White River, including Branson and Mountain Home to Batesville; the Salem Plateau or Central Plateau, which includes a broad band across south central Missouri and north central Arkansas including the
Lebanon Lebanon, officially the Republic of Lebanon, is a country in the Levant region of West Asia. Situated at the crossroads of the Mediterranean Basin and the Arabian Peninsula, it is bordered by Syria to the north and east, Israel to the south ...
,
Salem Salem may refer to: Places Canada * Salem, Ontario, various places Germany * Salem, Baden-Württemberg, a municipality in the Bodensee district ** Salem Abbey (Reichskloster Salem), a monastery * Salem, Schleswig-Holstein Israel * Salem (B ...
and West Plains areas; the Courtois Hills of southeastern Missouri; the Osage-Gasconade Hills around the
Lake of the Ozarks Lake of the Ozarks is a reservoir created by impounding the Osage River in the northern part of the Ozarks in central Missouri. Parts of three smaller tributaries to the Osage are included in the impoundment: the Niangua River, Grandglaize Creek ...
; the
Saint Francois Mountains The St. Francois Mountains in southeast Missouri are a mountain range of Precambrian igneous mountains rising over the Ozark Plateau. This range is one of the oldest exposures of igneous rock in North America. The name of the range is spelled out ...
; and the Missouri River and Mississippi River border areas along the eastern and northeastern flanks.
Karst Karst () is a topography formed from the dissolution of soluble carbonate rocks such as limestone and Dolomite (rock), dolomite. It is characterized by features like poljes above and drainage systems with sinkholes and caves underground. Ther ...
features such as
spring Spring(s) may refer to: Common uses * Spring (season), a season of the year * Spring (device), a mechanical device that stores energy * Spring (hydrology), a natural source of water * Spring (mathematics), a geometric surface in the shape of a he ...
s,
losing stream A losing stream, disappearing stream, influent stream or sinking river is a stream or river that loses water as it flows downstream. The water infiltrates into the ground recharging the local groundwater, because the water table is below the bo ...
s,
sinkhole A sinkhole is a depression or hole in the ground caused by some form of collapse of the surface layer. The term is sometimes used to refer to doline, enclosed depressions that are also known as shakeholes, and to openings where surface water ...
s and
cave Caves or caverns are natural voids under the Earth's Planetary surface, surface. Caves often form by the weathering of rock and often extend deep underground. Exogene caves are smaller openings that extend a relatively short distance undergrou ...
s are common in the
limestone Limestone is a type of carbonate rock, carbonate sedimentary rock which is the main source of the material Lime (material), lime. It is composed mostly of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different Polymorphism (materials science) ...
s of the Springfield Plateau and abundant in the dolomite bedrock of the Salem Plateau and Boston Mountains.''Karst, Springs and Caves in Missouri''
Missouri Department of Natural Resources
Missouri is known as "The Cave State" with over 7,300 recorded caves, second in number only to Tennessee. The majority of these caves are found in the Ozark counties. The Ozark Plateaus aquifer system affects groundwater movement in all areas except the igneous core of the St. Francois Mountains.Rafferty, Milton

''OzarksWatch'', Vol. I, No. 4, Spring 1988.

United States Geological Survey.

United States Geological Survey.
Geographic features include limestone and dolomite glades, which are rocky, desert-like areas on hilltops. Kept open by periodic fires that limit growth of
grasses Poaceae ( ), also called Gramineae ( ), is a large and nearly ubiquitous family of monocotyledonous flowering plants commonly known as grasses. It includes the cereal grasses, bamboos, the grasses of natural grassland and species cultivated in ...
and
forb A forb or phorb is a herbaceous flowering plant that is not a graminoid (grass, sedge, or rush). The term is used in botany and in vegetation ecology especially in relation to grasslands and understory. Typically, these are eudicots without woo ...
s in shallow soil, glades are home to collared lizards, tarantulas, scorpions, cacti and other species more typical of the
Desert Southwest The Southwestern United States, also known as the American Southwest or simply the Southwest, is a geographic and cultural list of regions of the United States, region of the United States that includes Arizona and New Mexico, along with adjacen ...
."Spatial Interaction Webs in Ozark Glades"
John Chase, Assistant Professor. Washington University in St. Louis.
The Boston Mountains contain the highest elevations of the Ozarks, with peaks over , and form some of the greatest relief of any formation between the Appalachians and Rocky Mountains. The
Ouachita Mountains The Ouachita Mountains (), simply referred to as the Ouachitas, are a mountain range in western Arkansas and southeastern Oklahoma. They are formed by a thick succession of highly deformed Paleozoic strata constituting the Ouachita Fold and Thru ...
to the south rise a few hundred feet higher, but are not geographically associated with the Ozarks. The Boston Mountains portion of the Ozarks extends north of the Arkansas River Valley , is approximately long, and is bordered by the Springfield and Salem Plateau to the north of the White River. Summits can reach elevations of just over , with valleys deep. Turner Ward Knob is the highest named peak. Found in western
Newton County, Arkansas Newton County is a County (United States), county in the U.S. state of Arkansas. As of the 2020 United States census, 2020 census, the population was 7,225. The county seat is Jasper, Arkansas, Jasper. Newton County is Arkansas's 46th county, ...
, its elevation is . Nearby, five unnamed peaks have elevations at or slightly above . Drainage is primarily to the White River, with the exception of the
Illinois River The Illinois River () is a principal tributary of the Mississippi River at approximately in length. Located in the U.S. state of Illinois, the river has a drainage basin of . The Illinois River begins with the confluence of the Des Plaines ...
, although there also is considerable drainage from the south slopes of the Boston Mountains to the Arkansas River. Major streams of this type include Lee Creek, Frog Bayou, Mulberry River, Spadra Creek, Big Piney Creek, Little Piney Creek, Illinois Bayou, Point Remove Creek, and Cadron Creek. Many Ozark waterways have their headwaters in the uplands of the Boston formation, including the
Buffalo Buffalo most commonly refers to: * True buffalo or Bubalina, a subtribe of wild cattle, including most "Old World" buffalo, such as water buffalo * Bison, a genus of wild cattle, including the American buffalo * Buffalo, New York, a city in the n ...
,
Kings Kings or King's may refer to: *Kings: The sovereign heads of states and/or nations. *One of several works known as the "Book of Kings": **The Books of Kings part of the Bible, divided into two parts **The ''Shahnameh'', an 11th-century epic Persia ...
,
Mulberry ''Morus'', a genus of flowering plants in the family Moraceae, consists of 19 species of deciduous trees commonly known as mulberries, growing wild and under cultivation in many temperate world regions. Generally, the genus has 64 subordinat ...
, Little Red and White rivers. Topography is mostly gently rolling in the Springfield and Salem plateaus, whereas the
Saint Francois Mountains The St. Francois Mountains in southeast Missouri are a mountain range of Precambrian igneous mountains rising over the Ozark Plateau. This range is one of the oldest exposures of igneous rock in North America. The name of the range is spelled out ...
are more rugged. Although the Springfield formation's surface is primarily
Mississippian Mississippian may refer to: * Mississippian (geology), a subperiod of the Carboniferous period in the geologic timescale, roughly 360 to 325 million years ago * Mississippian cultures, a network of precontact cultures across the midwest and Easte ...
limestone and
chert Chert () is a hard, fine-grained sedimentary rock composed of microcrystalline or cryptocrystalline quartz, the mineral form of silicon dioxide (SiO2). Chert is characteristically of biological origin, but may also occur inorganically as a prec ...
, the Salem Plateau is made of older
Ordovician The Ordovician ( ) is a geologic period and System (geology), system, the second of six periods of the Paleozoic Era (geology), Era, and the second of twelve periods of the Phanerozoic Eon (geology), Eon. The Ordovician spans 41.6 million years f ...
dolomites, limestones, and sandstones. Both are rife with karst topography and form long, flat plains. The formations are separated by steep escarpments that dramatically interrupt the rolling hills. Although much of the Springfield Plateau has been
denuded Denudation is the geological process in which moving water, ice, wind, and waves erode the Earth's surface, leading to a reduction in elevation and in relief of landforms and landscapes. Although the terms erosion and denudation are used interchang ...
of the surface layers of the Boston Mountains, large remnants of these younger layers are present throughout the southern end of the formation, possibly suggesting a
peneplain In geomorphology and geology, a peneplain is a low-relief plain formed by protracted erosion. This is the definition in the broadest of terms, albeit with frequency the usage of peneplain is meant to imply the representation of a near-final (or ...
process. The Springfield Plateau drains through wide, mature streams ultimately feeding the White River.


Geology

The
St. Francois Mountains The St. Francois Mountains in southeast Missouri are a mountain range of Precambrian igneous rock, igneous mountains rising over the The Ozarks, Ozark Plateau. This range is one of the oldest exposures of igneous rock, igneous rock (geology), rock ...
in the northeastern Ozarks are the eroded remnants of an ancient range which form the geological core of the highland dome. The
igneous Igneous rock ( ), or magmatic rock, is one of the three main rock types, the others being sedimentary and metamorphic. Igneous rocks are formed through the cooling and solidification of magma or lava. The magma can be derived from partial ...
and
volcanic A volcano is commonly defined as a vent or fissure in the crust of a planetary-mass object, such as Earth, that allows hot lava, volcanic ash, and gases to escape from a magma chamber below the surface. On Earth, volcanoes are most often fo ...
rocks of the St. Francois Mountains are the exposed remains of a
Proterozoic The Proterozoic ( ) is the third of the four geologic eons of Earth's history, spanning the time interval from 2500 to 538.8 Mya, and is the longest eon of Earth's geologic time scale. It is preceded by the Archean and followed by the Phanerozo ...
mountain range hundreds of millions of years old. The remaining hills are the exposed portion of an extensive
terrane In geology, a terrane (; in full, a tectonostratigraphic terrane) is a crust fragment formed on a tectonic plate (or broken off from it) and accreted or " sutured" to crust lying on another plate. The crustal block or fragment preserves its d ...
(the Spavinaw terrane in part) of
granitic A granitoid is a broad term referring to a diverse group of coarse-grained igneous rocks that are widely distributed across the globe, covering a significant portion of the Earth's exposed surface and constituting a large part of the continental ...
and
rhyolitic Rhyolite ( ) is the most silica-rich of volcanic rocks. It is generally glassy or fine-grained (aphanitic) in texture, but may be porphyritic, containing larger mineral crystals ( phenocrysts) in an otherwise fine-grained groundmass. The miner ...
rocks dating from 1485 to 1350 mya that stretches from
Ohio Ohio ( ) is a U.S. state, state in the Midwestern United States, Midwestern region of the United States. It borders Lake Erie to the north, Pennsylvania to the east, West Virginia to the southeast, Kentucky to the southwest, Indiana to the ...
to western Oklahoma.Denison, Rodger E., et al., ''Geology and Geochemistry of the Precambrian Rocks in the Central Interior Region of the United States'', Geological Survey Professional Paper 1241-C, 1984 The core of the range existed as an island in the
Paleozoic The Paleozoic ( , , ; or Palaeozoic) Era is the first of three Era (geology), geological eras of the Phanerozoic Eon. Beginning 538.8 million years ago (Ma), it succeeds the Neoproterozoic (the last era of the Proterozoic Eon) and ends 251.9 Ma a ...
seas.
Reef A reef is a ridge or shoal of rock, coral, or similar relatively stable material lying beneath the surface of a natural body of water. Many reefs result from natural, abiotic component, abiotic (non-living) processes such as deposition (geol ...
complexes occur in the sedimentary layers surrounding this ancient island. These flanking reefs were points of concentration for later
ore Ore is natural rock or sediment that contains one or more valuable minerals, typically including metals, concentrated above background levels, and that is economically viable to mine and process. The grade of ore refers to the concentration ...
-bearing fluids which formed the rich
lead Lead () is a chemical element; it has Chemical symbol, symbol Pb (from Latin ) and atomic number 82. It is a Heavy metal (elements), heavy metal that is density, denser than most common materials. Lead is Mohs scale, soft and Ductility, malleabl ...
-
zinc Zinc is a chemical element; it has symbol Zn and atomic number 30. It is a slightly brittle metal at room temperature and has a shiny-greyish appearance when oxidation is removed. It is the first element in group 12 (IIB) of the periodic tabl ...
ores that have been and continue to be mined in the area. The igneous and volcanic rocks extend at depth under the relatively thin veneer of Paleozoic
sedimentary Sedimentary rocks are types of rock formed by the cementation of sediments—i.e. particles made of minerals (geological detritus) or organic matter (biological detritus)—that have been accumulated or deposited at Earth's surface. Sedime ...
rocks and form the basal crust of the entire region.A. G. Unklesbay, Jerry D. Vineyard. ''Missouri Geology — Three Billion Years of Volcanoes, Seas, Sediments, and Erosion'', University of Missouri Press, 1992. A major
unconformity An unconformity is a buried erosional or non-depositional surface separating two rock masses or strata of different ages, indicating that sediment deposition was not continuous. In general, the older layer was exposed to erosion for an interval ...
in the region attests that the Ozarks were above sea level for several hundred million years from the time of the volcanism in the Precambrian until the mid-
Cambrian The Cambrian ( ) is the first geological period of the Paleozoic Era, and the Phanerozoic Eon. The Cambrian lasted 51.95 million years from the end of the preceding Ediacaran period 538.8 Ma (million years ago) to the beginning of the Ordov ...
with an erosionally produced relief of up to . The seas encroached during the late Cambrian producing the Lamotte Sandstone, thick, followed by carbonate rock, carbonate sedimentation. Coral reefs formed around the granite and rhyolite islands in this Cambrian sea. This carbonate formation, the Bonneterre Formation, Bonneterre, now mostly dolomite, is exposed around the St. Francis Mountains, but extends in the subsurface throughout the Ozarks and reaches a thickness of . The Bonneterre is overlain by of dolomite, often sandy, silty or cherty, forming the Elvins Group and the Potosi Dolomite, Potosi and Eminence Formation, Eminence formations. Withdrawal of the seas resulted in another unconformity during the latest Cambrian and early
Ordovician The Ordovician ( ) is a geologic period and System (geology), system, the second of six periods of the Paleozoic Era (geology), Era, and the second of twelve periods of the Phanerozoic Eon (geology), Eon. The Ordovician spans 41.6 million years f ...
periods. Hydrothermal mineralizing fluids formed the rich lead ore deposits of the Lead Belt during this time. Sedimentation resumed in the Ordovician with the deposition of the Gunter sandstone, the Gasconade Formation, Gasconade dolomite and the prominent Roubidoux Formation, Roubidoux sandstone and dolomite. The sandstone of the Roubidoux forms prominent bluffs along the streams eroding into the southern part of the Salem Plateau. The Roubidoux and Gunter sandstones serve as significant aquifers when present in the subsurface. The source of the sands is considered to be the emerging Wisconsin Dome to the northeast. The Ozark region remained as a subsiding shallow carbonate shelf environment with a significant thickness of cherty dolomites such as the Jefferson City Formation, Jefferson City, Cotter Formation, Cotter and Powell Formation, Powell formations. Portions of the Ozark Plateau, the Springfield Plateau of southwest Missouri and northern Arkansas, are underlain by
Mississippian Mississippian may refer to: * Mississippian (geology), a subperiod of the Carboniferous period in the geologic timescale, roughly 360 to 325 million years ago * Mississippian cultures, a network of precontact cultures across the midwest and Easte ...
cherty limestones locally referred to as "Boone chert", consisting of limestone and chert layers. These are eroded and form steep hills, valleys and bluffs. The Boston Mountains are a high and deeply dissected plateau. The rocks of the region are essentially little disturbed, flat-lying sedimentary layers of Paleozoic age. The highest ridges and peaks are capped by Pennsylvanian sandstone such as the basal Atoka and the "Middle Bloyd". The deeply eroded valleys are cut into Mississippian limestone and below that layer Ordovician dolomite. During the Pennsylvanian (geology), Pennsylvanian period, the Ozark Plateau was uplifted as a result of the Ouachita orogeny. During the late Paleozoic, the deep ocean basin that existed in central and southern Arkansas was lifted when South America collided with North America, creating the folded Ouachita Mountains and uplifting the Ozark plateau to the north.


Ecology and conservation

Formal conservation in the region began when the Ozark–St. Francis National Forest, Ozark National Forest was created by proclamation of President Theodore Roosevelt in 1908 to preserve across five Arkansas counties. Another were added the following year. The initial forest included area as far south as Mount Magazine and as far east as Sylamore, Arkansas, Sylamore. In 1939, Congress established Mark Twain National Forest at nine sites in Missouri. Wildlife management areas were founded in the 1920s and '30s to restore populations to viable numbers. In the 1930s and 1940s Aldo Leopold, Arthur Carhart and Bob Marshall (wilderness activist), Bob Marshall developed a "wilderness" policy for the Forest Service. Their efforts bore fruit with The Wilderness Act of 1964 which designated wilderness areas "where the earth and its community of life are untrammeled by men, where man himself is a visitor and does not remain", though this included secondary forest, second growth public forests like the Mark Twain National Forest. Land was also added to Ozark National Forest during this period, with over in total additions. Some land was reclaimed by the government through the Resettlement Administration during the Great Depression in the United States, Great Depression. In 1976, Congress established the Hercules Glades Wilderness, the first of 13 designated wilderness areas in the Ozarks. In 1986, Congress established the Ozark Plateau National Wildlife Refuge in northeast Oklahoma. Protected areas ensure the recovery of endangered and threatened species of animals and plants, including the red wolf, Ozark big-eared bat, Indiana bat, eastern small-footed bat, southeastern bat, southeastern big-eared bat; longnose darter, Ozark cavefish, Ozark cave crayfish, Bowman's cave amphipod, Ozark cave amphipod, bat cave isopod; and Ozark Castanea pumila, chinquapin. It is a habitat of migratory birds and contains geological, archeological, historical, and paleontological resources. Commercial farms and processing operations are known to raise levels of chemical and biological contaminants in Ozark streams, threatening water supplies, recreational use and endangered native species.


Lakes and streams

Many of the rivers and streams in the Ozarks have been dammed. Most of the dams in the region were initially built for the dual purpose of flood control and hydropower generation but have also become major economic drivers through recreational use in places such as Branson, Missouri, and Mountain Home, Arkansas. The United States Army Corps of Engineers, Army Corps of Engineers among others, operates multiple dams in the Ozarks region. Some of the largest lakes created by these dams are on the White River (Arkansas–Missouri), White River. Beginning in 1911 with the construction of Powersite Dam on the White River near Branson, Missouri and the impoundment of Lake Taneycomo the Ozarks rivers have been harnessed for electrical power, recreation, and flood control. After the President Franklin D, Roosevelt signed the Flood Control Act of 1938, six large flood control dams were constructed on the White River and its tributaries. * Beaver Dam on the White River – Beaver Lake * Table Rock Dam on the White River – Table Rock Lake * Bull Shoals Dam on the White River – Bull Shoals Lake * Norfork Dam on the North Fork River – Norfork Lake * Greers Ferry Lake on the Little Red River – Greers Ferry Lake * Clearwater Dam on the Black River – Clearwater Lake Multiple smaller lakes have been created by dams in the White River basin from 1911 through 1960. These smaller lakes include Lake Sequoyah,Boss, Stephen K., Heil-Chapdelaine, Vanessa M
"Mapping Landscape Change: An Historic and Bathymetric Study of Lake Sequoyah, Washington County, Arkansas"
a small recreational fishing lake east of Fayetteville, Arkansas, formed in 1961; Sequoyah is the uppermost impoundment on the White River. Below Sequoyah (northeast of Fayetteville) is Beaver Lake (Arkansas), Beaver Lake, formed in 1960. The White River continues northeasterly into Table Rock Lake (1958) in Missouri, which feeds directly into Lake Taneycomo, where the river zigzags southeasterly into Arkansas forming Bull Shoals Lake along the Arkansas-Missouri line. Completed in 1952, Bull Shoals is the furthest downstream lake on the White River proper. Norfork Dam, Norfork Lake was formed by damming the North Fork River (Missouri–Arkansas), North Fork River, a tributary of the White River, in 1941. Additional large lakes in the Ozarks region include
Lake of the Ozarks Lake of the Ozarks is a reservoir created by impounding the Osage River in the northern part of the Ozarks in central Missouri. Parts of three smaller tributaries to the Osage are included in the impoundment: the Niangua River, Grandglaize Creek ...
, Pomme de Terre Lake, and Truman Lake in the northern Ozarks. These three lakes were formed by impounding the Osage River and its tributary the Pomme de Terre River (Missouri), Pomme de Terre River in 1931, 1961 and 1979 respectively. Grand Lake o' the Cherokees, Grand Lake o' the Cherokee in northeast Oklahoma, on the western portion of the Ozark Plateau, was created in 1940 with the damming of the Grand River. Stockton Lake was formed in 1969 by damming the Sac River near the city of Stockton, Missouri, and supplements the water supply of Springfield in nearby Greene County, Missouri, Greene County. The creation of the lakes significantly altered the Ozark landscape and affected traditional Ozark culture through displacement.Watkins, Conor
"The Meramec Basin Project: A Look Back 25 Years Later"
''Ozark Mountain Experience''. Article 69 & 70 Combined. 2006.
"Mountain Home (Baxter County)": ''The Encyclopedia of Arkansas History & Culture''
Campbell, Rex R. Campbell, Mary. Hughes, Colleen
"A Revolution in the Heartland: Changes in Rural Culture, Family and Communities, 1900–2000"
. University of Missouri: Department of Rural Sociology. Columbia, Missouri. 2004.
The streams provided water and power to communities, farms and mills concentrated in the valleys prior to impoundment.E. Joan Wilson Miller
Abstract
"The Ozark Culture Region as Revealed by Traditional Materials". ''Annals of the Association of American Geographers'', Volume 58 Issue 1, Pages 51-77. January 3, 1967.
Many cemeteries, farm roads, river fords and railways were lost when the lakes came, disrupting rural culture, travel and commerce. Baxter County, Arkansas, alone saw nearly 400 people displaced to make way for the reservoir created by Norfork Dam. The town of Forsyth, Missouri, was relocated in its entirety to a spot from its previous location. Prior to damming, rivers and streams in the White and Osage River basins were of similar character to the current conditions of the
Buffalo Buffalo most commonly refers to: * True buffalo or Bubalina, a subtribe of wild cattle, including most "Old World" buffalo, such as water buffalo * Bison, a genus of wild cattle, including the American buffalo * Buffalo, New York, a city in the n ...
, Elk River (Oklahoma), Elk, Niangua River, Niangua, Gasconade River, Gasconade, Big Piney River, Big Piney, Current River (Ozarks), Current, Jacks Fork River, Jacks Fork, Eleven Point River, Eleven Point and Meramec River, Meramec rivers. Because of the success of the Army Corps efforts to dam the large rivers in the Ozarks, the Ozarks Society began protests to keep the other rivers in the Ozarks free flowing. The Buffalo National River was created by an Act of Congress in 1972 as the nation's first List of areas in the United States National Park System#National rivers and national wild and scenic rivers, National River, administered by the National Park Service. The designation came after over a decade of battling a proposed Army Corps dam in the media, legislature, and courts to keep the Buffalo River free flowing. The Ozark Society, the main force behind the dam protest, still leads the fight to keep the Buffalo River pristine and protected. Today, the Buffalo River sees approximately 800,000 visitors camping, canoeing, floating, hiking, and tubing annually. In Missouri, the Ozark National Scenic Riverways was established in 1964 along the Current River (Ozarks), Current and Jacks Fork rivers as the first US national park based on a river system. The Eleven Point River is included in the National Wild and Scenic Rivers System established in 1968. These parks and rivers are a major economic driver for some of the least populated counties in Arkansas and Missouri, attracting up to 1.5 million tourists annually. Many other waterways and streams have their headwaters in the Boston Mountains portion of the Ozarks such as the Mulberry River (Arkansas), Mulberry River, the White River, War Eagle Creek, Little Mulberry Creek, Lee Creek, Big Piney Creek, and the Little Red River. To the south, the Arkansas River valley separates the Boston Mountains from the Ouachita Mountains. Missouri Ozark rivers include the Gasconade River, Gasconade, Big Piney River, Big Piney, and Niangua River, Niangua rivers in the north central region. The Meramec River and its tributaries Huzzah Creek (Meramec River tributary), Huzzah Creek and Courtois Creek are found in the northeastern Ozarks. The Black River (Arkansas–Missouri), Black and St. Francis River, St. Francis rivers mark the eastern crescent of the Ozarks. The James River (Missouri), James, Spring River (Arkansas), Spring and North Fork River (Missouri–Arkansas), North Fork rivers are in south-central Missouri. Forming the west central border of the Ozarks from Missouri through Kansas and into Oklahoma are the Spring River (Missouri), Spring River and its tributary, Center Creek. Grand Falls, Missouri's largest natural waterfall, a
chert Chert () is a hard, fine-grained sedimentary rock composed of microcrystalline or cryptocrystalline quartz, the mineral form of silicon dioxide (SiO2). Chert is characteristically of biological origin, but may also occur inorganically as a prec ...
outcropping, includes bluffs and glades on Shoal Creek south of Joplin. All these river systems see heavy recreational use in season, including the Elk River (Oklahoma), Elk River in southwestern Missouri and its tributary Big Sugar Creek. Ozark rivers and streams are typically clear water, with baseflows sustained by many seep (hydrology), seeps and spring (hydrology), springs, and flow through forests along
limestone Limestone is a type of carbonate rock, carbonate sedimentary rock which is the main source of the material Lime (material), lime. It is composed mostly of the minerals calcite and aragonite, which are different Polymorphism (materials science) ...
and dolomite bluffs. Gravel bars are common along shallow banks, while deep holes are found along bluffs.MS Panfil, RB Jacobson
"Hydraulic Modeling of In-channel Habitats in the Ozark Highlands of Missouri: Assessment of Physical Habitat Sensitivity to Environmental Change"
USGS-Biological Resources Division.
Except during periods of heavy rain or snow melt — when water levels rise quite rapidly — their level of difficulty is suitable for most canoeing and tubing. Fish hatcheries are common due to the abundance of springs and waterways. The Neosho National Fish Hatchery was built in 1888; it was the first federal hatchery. The Arkansas Game and Fish Commission, Missouri Department of Conservation and United States Fish and Wildlife Service, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service operate numerous warm and cold water hatcheries and trout parks;
Missouri Fish Hatcheries and Trout Parks
private hatcheries such as at Rockbridge, Missouri, Rockbridge are found throughout the region.


Regional economy


Traditional economic activity

The Ozarks contain ore deposits of
lead Lead () is a chemical element; it has Chemical symbol, symbol Pb (from Latin ) and atomic number 82. It is a Heavy metal (elements), heavy metal that is density, denser than most common materials. Lead is Mohs scale, soft and Ductility, malleabl ...
,
zinc Zinc is a chemical element; it has symbol Zn and atomic number 30. It is a slightly brittle metal at room temperature and has a shiny-greyish appearance when oxidation is removed. It is the first element in group 12 (IIB) of the periodic tabl ...
, iron and barite. Many of these deposits have been depleted by historic mining activities, but much remains and is currently being mined in the Southeastern Missouri Lead District, Lead Belt of southeastern Missouri. Historically, the lead belt around the Saint Francois Mountains and the Tri-State district lead-zinc mining area around Joplin, Missouri, have been important sources of metals. Mining practices common in the early 20th century left significant abandoned underground mine problems and heavy metals, heavy metal contamination in topsoil and groundwater in the Tri-State district.Lasmanis, Raymond
Tri-State and Viburnum Trend Districts
''Rocks & Minerals'', November 1, 1997.

, Kansas Geological Survey. Updated May 5, 2005.
Much of the area supports beef cattle ranching, and dairy farming is common across the area. Dairy farms are usually cooperative affairs, with small farms selling to a corporate wholesaler, who packages product under a common brand for retail sales. Petroleum exploration and extraction also takes place in the Oklahoma portion of the Ozarks, as well as in the east half of the Boston Mountains in Arkansas. Logging of both softwood and hardwood timber species on both private land and in the United States National Forest, National Forests has long been an important economic activity. The majority of the Ozarks is forested. Oak–hickory forest, Oak-hickory is the predominant type; Juniperus virginiana, eastern junipers are common, with stands of List of Pinus species, pine often seen in the southern range. Less than a quarter of the region has been cleared for pasture and cropland.''Primary Distinguishing Characteristics of Level III Ecoregions of the Continental United States''
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Revised April 2000.
Forests that were heavily logged during the early-to-mid-20th century have recovered; much of the remaining timber in the Ozarks is secondary forest, second-growth forest. However, deforestation of Old-growth forest, frontier forest contributed through erosion to increased gravel bars along Ozark waterways in logged areas; stream channels have become wider and shallower, and deepwater fish habitat has been lost. The numerous rivers and streams of the region saw hundreds of water-powered timber and grist mills."Index to the old mills of Missouri"
Hosted by rootsweb, this incomplete list includes almost 250 old mills in Missouri alone.

(Rootsweb)
Mills were important centers of culture and commerce; dispersed widely throughout the region, mills served local needs, often thriving within a few miles of another facility. Few Ozark mills relied on inefficient water wheels for power; most utilized a dam, Sluice, millrace and water turbine.Suggs, George E., Jr. ''Water Mills of the Missouri Ozarks''. University of Oklahoma Press: Norman, Oklahoma. 1990 During the New Deal, the Civilian Conservation Corps employed hundreds in the construction of nearly 400 fire lookouts throughout the Ozarks at 121 known sites in Arkansas and 257 in Missouri. Of those lookouts, about half remain, and many of them are in use by the United States Forest Service, U.S. Forest Service. A 2007 report by the National Trust for Historic Preservation deemed these fire lookouts and related structures as one of America's 11 Most Endangered Historic Places. In the 1960s, federal activity promoted modernization, especially through better transportation and tourism. The Ozarks Regional Commission sponsored numerous projects.


Current economic activities

Tourism is the growth industry of the Ozarks as evidenced by the growth of the Branson, Missouri, entertainment center celebrating traditional Ozark culture.''Area and Economic Overview: Southwest Missouri Overall Economic Development Program''
Southwest Missouri Council of Governments White Paper.
Snyder, Robert E. "Shepherd of the Hills Country: Tourism Transforms the Ozarks, 1880s-1930s". ''The Journal of American Culture'', Volume 27 Issue 1, Pages 117-119. The rapidly growing Northwest Arkansas, Northwest Arkansas metropolitan area has also become a tourist hub, drawing nationwide attention for the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Bentonville, Arkansas. Poultry farming and food processing are significant industries throughout the region. The Tyson Foods corporation and ConAgra Foods each operates several hundred poultry farms and processing plants throughout the Ozarks. Schreiber Foods has operations throughout southern Missouri. The Trucking industry in the United States, trucking industry is important to the regional economy, with national carriers based there including J. B. Hunt, ABF Freight System, ABF, and Prime, Inc. Springfield remains an operational hub for the BNSF Railway. Logging and timber industries are also significant in the Ozark economy, with operations ranging from small family-run sawmills to large commercial concerns. Fortune 500 companies such as Wal-Mart, Leggett & Platt, Bass Pro Shops, and O'Reilly Auto Parts are based in the Ozarks. The area is home to several Missouri wine and spirit regions, including the Ozark Highlands AVA, Ozark Highlands and Ozark Mountain AVA, Ozark Mountain American Viticultural Areas, and the Ozark Highlands Spirits, Ozark Highland Spirits Region. There are a number of Craft brewery and microbrewery, microbreweries throughout the region.


Culture

"Ozark" also refers to the distinctive culture, architecture,Andy Ostmeyer
"Original Ozarks: Evidence of settlement before 1830 hard to find"
''Joplin Globe''. June 21, 2009. According to the National Register of Historic Places, the Rice-Upshaw House, ca.1826, "is one of the two oldest remaining standing buildings in Arkansas, and a rare surviving example of a building from Arkansas' territorial period"; Wolf House, ca. 1825, overlooks the junction of the Norfork and White rivers; the Craighead-Henry House, ca. 1816, is "one of the oldest known structures in the interior [Missouri] Ozarks."
and Ozark English, dialect shared by the people who live on the plateau. Early settlers in Missouri were American pioneer, pioneers who came west from the Appalachia, Southern Appalachians at the beginning of the 19th century,Randolph, Vance. ''Ozark Magic and Folklore''. 367 pages. Courier Dover Publications, 1964. followed in the 1840s and 1850s by Irish Americans, Irish and German Americans, German immigrants. Much of the Ozark population is of English Americans, English, Scots-Irish Americans, Scots-Irish, and German descent, and the Ozark families from which the regional culture derived tend to have lived in the area since the 19th century.Rafferty, Milton D. ''The Ozarks: Land and Life'', University of Arkansas Press, 2nd ed., 2001. Early settlers relied on hunting, fishing, trapping, and foraging to supplement their diets and incomes. Today hunting and fishing for recreation are common activities and an important part of the tourist industry. Foraging for Edible mushroom, mushrooms (especially morels) and for American ginseng, ginseng is common and financially supported by established buyers in the area. Other forages include Phytolacca americana, poke, watercress, Diospyros virginiana, persimmons and Asimina triloba, pawpaw; wild berries such as blackberry, black raspberry, raspberry, Morus rubra, red mulberry, Prunus serotina, black cherry, Virginia strawberry, wild strawberry and dewberry; and wild nut (fruit), nuts such as Juglans nigra, black walnut and even acorns.Phillips, Jan. ''Wild Edibles of Missouri''. Missouri Department of Conservation, 2nd edition (1998)
Cover, Introduction, Acknowledgments and Preface

Chapters

Color Plates
.
Edible native plant, native legumes, grass, wild grasses and wildflowers are plentiful, and beekeeping is common.''The Naturalist''
High Plains Films. Doug Hawes-Davis, Director. 32 minutes, Color/B&W, 2001.
Print and broadcast media have explored Ozark culture broadly. Books set in the Ozarks include ''Where the Red Fern Grows'', ''The Shepherd of the Hills (novel), The Shepherd of the Hills'', and ''As a Friend''.Forrest Gander, Gander, Forrest.
As a Friend
''. New York City: New Directions Publishers, New Directions Publishing Corporation. 2008.
The 1999 film ''Ride with the Devil (film), Ride with the Devil'', based on the book ''Woe to Live On'', depicts conflict in southwest Missouri during the American Civil War, Civil War.Ward L. Schrantz. ''Jasper County, Missouri in the Civil War''. 1923. ''Winter's Bone'', a novel by Daniel Woodrell (author of ''Woe to Live On''), reflects on contemporary methamphetamine culture and its impact on families on the plateau. Released as a feature film in 2010, ''Winter's Bone'' received the Grand Jury Prize at the Sundance Film Festival, as well as other awards. Several early and influential country music, country-music television and radio programs originated from Springfield in the 1950s and '60s, including ABC-TV's ''Ozark Jubilee'' and ''The Slim Wilson Show'' on KYTV (TV), KYTV. The Clampett clan of ''The Beverly Hillbillies'' TV show provide a stereotypical depiction of Ozark people. Ozark musicians include Porter Wagoner and Old-time music, old-time fiddler Bob Holt (fiddler), Bob Holt.Henigan, Julie
Play Me Something Quick and Devilish: Bob Holt – Old-Time Square Dance Fiddler
''Musical Traditions'', Article MT021, June 1998.
Netflix drama series ''Ozark (TV series), Ozark'' takes place in Osage Beach, Missouri and revolves around the well-to-do Byrde family as their lives are uprooted and they are forced to move from Chicago to the Ozarks after a money laundering scheme goes wrong. The series focuses on the Byrdes' dealings in the Ozarks, as well as their interactions with local Ozark crime families. The series premiered on July 21, 2017. Examples of commercial interpretations of traditional Ozark culture include the two major family theme parks in the region, Silver Dollar City and the now defunct Dogpatch USA, and the resort entertainment complex in Branson. Ozark Folkways in Winslow, Arkansas, and Ozark Folk Center State Park in Mountain View, Arkansas, interpret regional culture through musical performance and exhibitions of pioneer skills and crafts. Traditional Ozark culture includes stories and tunes passed orally between generations through community music parties and other informal gatherings.Aunt Shelle Stormoe
"How to Spot a Genuine Ozark Hillbilly"
October 23, 2008.
Many of these tunes and tales can be traced to United Kingdom, British originsSmith, Vic
Review of Ozark Folksongs
''Musical Traditions'', January 2001.
and to German folklore. Moreover, historian Vance Randolph attributes the formation of much Ozark lore to individual families when "backwoods parents begin by telling outrageous whoppers to their children and end by half believing the wildest of these tales themselves." Randolph collected Ozark folklore and lyrics in volumes such as the national bestseller ''Pissing in the Snow and Other Ozark Folktales'' (University of Illinois Press, 1976), ''Ozark Folksongs'' (University of Missouri Press, 1980), a four-volume anthology of regional songs and ballads collected in the 1920s and 1930s, and ''Ozark Magic and Folklore'' (Courier Dover Publications, 1964). Evidenced by Randolph's extensive field work, many Ozark anecdotes from the oral tradition are often Ribaldry, bawdy, full of wild embellishments on everyday themes.Florer, Faith L
"Book Review. Pissing in the snow and other Ozark folktales".
''Whole Earth Review''. Summer, 1987. "Because of their—ahem—subject matter, the tales contained in this volume could not be published with Randolph's four great collections of Ozark material published in the 1950s, and have until recently been circulating only in manuscript and on elusive microfilm."
In 1941–42, commissioned by Alan Lomax of the Archive of Folk Culture, Randolph returned to the Ozarks with a portable recording machine from the Library of Congress and captured over 800 songs, ballads and instrumentals. Selected from among these several hundred recordings, 35 tracks were released on ''Various Artists: Ozark Folksongs'' (Rounder Records) in 2001. Traditional square dance, Square dances were an important social avenue throughout the Ozarks into the 20th century.Karen Mulrenin, Rita Saeger and Terry Brandt
"Old-Time Ozark Square Dancing"
''Bittersweet'', Volume II, No. 1, Fall 1974.
Foreman, Diana

''Bittersweet'', Volume V, No. 2, Winter 1977.
Edited and photography by Allen Gage

''Bittersweet'', Volume IX, No. 3, Spring 1982.
Square dances sprang up wherever people concentrated around mills and timber camps, springs, fords, and in towns small and large. Geographically isolated communities saw their own local dance tunes and variations develop. Of all the traditional musicians in the Ozarks, the fiddler holds a distinct place in both the community and folklore. Community fiddlers were revered for carrying local tunes; regionally, traveling fiddlers brought new tunes and entertainment, even while many viewed their arrival as a threat to morality. In 2007, Gordon McCann, a chronicler of Ozarks folklife and fiddle music for over four decades, donated a collection of audio recordings, fieldnotes and photographs to Missouri State University in Springfield.Gordon McCann pledges collection to Missouri State University: Four decades of material will be housed in Meyer Library
Missouri State University Press Release. September 26, 2007.
The collection includes more than 3,000 hours of fiddle music and interviews recorded at jam sessions, music parties, concerts and dances in the Ozarks. Selected audio recordings along with biographical sketches, photographs and tune histories were published in Drew Beisswenger and Gordon McCann's 2008 book/37-track CD set ''Mel Bay Presents Ozarks Fiddle Music: 308 Tunes Featuring 30 Legendary Fiddlers With Selections from 50 Other Great Ozarks Fiddlers''. From 1973 to 1983, the Bittersweet project, which began as an English class at Lebanon High School (Missouri), Lebanon High School in Missouri, collected 476 taped and transcribed interviews, published 482 stories, and took over 50,000 photographs documenting traditional Ozark culture. Population influx since the 1950s, coupled with geographically lying in both the Midwest and Upper South, proximity to the Mississippi embayment, the Osage Plains, Osage and Northern Plains, contributes to changing cultural values in the Ozarks. Theme parks and theatres seen to reflect regional values have little in common with traditional Ozark culture. Community tradition bearers remain active, in decreasing numbers, far afield of commercial offers.


Religion

Ozark religion, like that of Appalachia, was predominantly Baptist and Methodist during periods of early settlement; it tends to the social conservatism, conservative or individualistic, with Episcopal Church (United States), Episcopalians, Assemblies of God, Baptists including Southern Baptist Convention, Southern Baptists, Churches of Christ, Church of Christ, pentecostalism, Pentecostals, and other Protestant denominations present, as well as Roman Catholic Church, Catholics. Religious organizations headquartered in the Ozarks include the Assemblies of God and Baptist Bible Fellowship International in Springfield and the General Association of General Baptists in Poplar Bluff, Missouri, Poplar Bluff.


See also

;National Forests of the Ozarks * * ;Ozark National Rivers and Wild Scenic Riverways * * * ;Hiking Trail Systems of the Ozarks * * * * * * * * * ;Ships named Ozark * * *


References


Further reading

* Beisswenger, Drew & Gordon McCann,
Mel Bay Presents Ozarks Fiddle Music: 308 Tunes Featuring 30 Legendary Fiddlers With Selections from 50 Other Great Ozarks Fiddlers
'' 2008. * Blevins, Brooks, ''A History of the Ozarks: Volume 1: The Old Ozarks.'' Urbana, IL: University of Illinois Press, 2018. * Rafferty, Milton D. ''The Ozarks: Land and Life.'' Fayetteville, AR: University of Arkansas Press, 2001. * Rafferty, Milton D. "Agricultural Change in the Western Ozarks" ''Missouri Historical Review'' 69 (April 1975): 299-322
online
* Randolph, Vance. ''The Ozarks: An American Survival of Primitive Society.'' 1931. * Rossiter, Phyllis. ''A Living History of the Ozarks'' Gretna, LA: Pelican, 1992. * Phillips, Jared. ''Hipbillies: Deep Revolution in the Arkansas Ozarks'' Fayetteville, AR: University of Arkansas Press, 2019.


Folklore

* Gilmore, Robert Karl. ''Ozark Baptizings, Hangings, and Other Diversions: Theatrical Folkways of Rural Missouri, 1885-1910'' Norman, OK: University of Oklahoma Press, 1984. * Morrow, Lynn, and James Keefe, eds. ''White River Chronicles.'' Fayetteville, AR: University of Arkansas Press, 1994. * McNeil, W. K.''Ozark Country.'' Jackson, MS: University Press of Mississippi, 1995. * Randolph, Vance. ''Ozark Folksongs.'' In four volumes. Columbia, MO: University of Missouri Press, 1980)


History

* ''A reminiscent history of the Ozark region: comprising a condensed general history, a brief descriptive history of each county, and numerous biographical sketches of prominent citizens of such counties'' (1894
full text


Tourism

* Morrow, Lynn, and Linda Myers-Phinney. ''Shepherd of the Hills Country: Tourism Transforms the Ozarks, 1880s–1930s.'' Fayetteville, AR: University of Arkansas Press, 1999.


External links

*

*
Ozark Plateau National Wildlife Refuge

Ozark Mountains, Encyclopedia of Arkansas History & Culture, The Central Arkansas Library System.

The Intimate Wild: Ozark Highlands Trail, National Geographic, 10/2008.

"Closest to Everlastin'": Ozark Agricultural Biodiversity and Subsistence Traditions, 9/2010.
* {{Authority control Ozarks, Civilian Conservation Corps in Arkansas Civilian Conservation Corps in Missouri Mountain ranges of Arkansas Mountain ranges of Kansas Mountain ranges of Missouri Mountain ranges of Oklahoma Physiographic regions of the United States Plateaus of the United States Regions of Arkansas U.S. Interior Highlands