Nunivak Island (
Central Alaskan Yup'ik: ;
Nunivak Cup'ig: ''Nuniwar''; ) is a
permafrost
Permafrost () is soil or underwater sediment which continuously remains below for two years or more; the oldest permafrost has been continuously frozen for around 700,000 years. Whilst the shallowest permafrost has a vertical extent of below ...
-covered
volcanic
A volcano is commonly defined as a vent or fissure in the crust of a planetary-mass object, such as Earth, that allows hot lava, volcanic ash, and gases to escape from a magma chamber below the surface.
On Earth, volcanoes are most often fo ...
island
An island or isle is a piece of land, distinct from a continent, completely surrounded by water. There are continental islands, which were formed by being split from a continent by plate tectonics, and oceanic islands, which have never been ...
lying about offshore from the delta of the
Yukon
Yukon () is a Provinces and territories of Canada, territory of Canada, bordering British Columbia to the south, the Northwest Territories to the east, the Beaufort Sea to the north, and the U.S. state of Alaska to the west. It is Canada’s we ...
and
Kuskokwim
The Kuskokwim River or Kusko River ( Yupʼik: ''Kusquqvak''; Deg Xinag: ''Digenegh''; Upper Kuskokwim: ''Dichinanekʼ''; (''Kuskokvim'')) is a river, long, in Southwest Alaska in the United States. It is the ninth largest river in the Unit ...
rivers in the US state of
Alaska
Alaska ( ) is a non-contiguous U.S. state on the northwest extremity of North America. Part of the Western United States region, it is one of the two non-contiguous U.S. states, alongside Hawaii. Alaska is also considered to be the north ...
, at a latitude of about
60°N
The 60th parallel north is a circle of latitude that is 60 degrees north of Earth's equator. It crosses Europe, Asia, the Pacific Ocean, North America, and the Atlantic Ocean.
Although it lies approximately twice as far away from the Equator as ...
. The island is in area, making it the second-largest island in the
Bering Sea
The Bering Sea ( , ; rus, Бе́рингово мо́ре, r=Béringovo móre, p=ˈbʲerʲɪnɡəvə ˈmorʲe) is a marginal sea of the Northern Pacific Ocean. It forms, along with the Bering Strait, the divide between the two largest landmasse ...
and
eighth-largest island in the United States. It is long and wide. It has a population of 191 persons as of the
2010 census, down from 210 in 2000. The island's entire population lives in the north coast city of
Mekoryuk.
[Block 1038 thru Block 1044, Block Group 1, Census Tract 1, Bethel Census Area](_blank)
United States Census Bureau
People

Nunivak has only one permanent settlement,
Mekoryuk, on the north shore, with about 200 residents. In the 1880
United States Census
The United States census (plural censuses or census) is a census that is legally mandated by the Constitution of the United States. It takes place every ten years. The first census after the American Revolution was taken in 1790 United States ce ...
,
Ivan Petrof
Ivan Petrof (1842? - 1896) (commonly spelled "Petroff" in sources) was a Russian-born soldier, writer, and translator who for many years was regarded as a major authority on Alaska. According to historian Terrence Cole, Petrof "holds the distin ...
recorded 702 residents in nine villages on the island. An epidemic in 1900 decimated the population of the island.
Emigration
Emigration is the act of leaving a resident country or place of residence with the intent to settle elsewhere (to permanently leave a country). Conversely, immigration describes the movement of people into one country from another (to permanentl ...
keeps the population small. Noted persons who have visited Nunivak include journalist
Jon Lee Anderson, photographer
Edward S. Curtis
Edward Sheriff Curtis (February 19, 1868 – October 19, 1952; sometimes given as Edward Sherriff Curtis) was an American photographer and ethnologist whose work focused on the American West and Native American people. Sometimes referred to a ...
, Anne Makepeace, anthropologist Margaret Lantis, and the artist Muriel Hannah. Noted conservationist and outdoorsman
Steven Rinella aired an episode of his television show ''Meat Eater'' in 2015 where he experienced a muskox hunt and explored the history and culture of the island and its people.
Nearly all the permanent residents of Nunivak are
Cup'it Eskimo, whose traditional language is a dialect of
Central Alaskan Yup'ik known as Cup'ig or
Nunivak Cup'ig. Cup'ig is the first language for many older islanders and is enjoying a dedicated revival among younger islanders as well, although nearly all ''Nuniwarmiut'' (Nunivak people) speak English. The people of Nunivak Island still depend to a large degree on subsistence hunting, and also commercial fishing and industrial work on the mainland.
Geology and natural history

Nunivak Island is volcanic in origin; most of the island is dominated by
volcanic plateau
A volcanic plateau is a plateau produced by volcanic activity. There are two main types: lava plateaus and pyroclastic plateaus.
Lava plateau
Lava plateaus are formed by highly fluid basaltic lava during numerous successive eruptions thro ...
500 ft (160 m) or more above sea level. The island is dotted with about 60
cinder cones and four
maar
A maar is a broad, low-relief volcanic crater caused by a phreatomagmatic eruption (an explosion which occurs when groundwater comes into contact with hot lava or magma). A maar characteristically fills with water to form a relatively shallow ...
s. Much of its surface consists of widespread, thin flows of
pahoehoe lava from small
shield volcano
A shield volcano is a type of volcano named for its low profile, resembling a shield lying on the ground. It is formed by the eruption of highly fluid (low viscosity) lava, which travels farther and forms thinner flows than the more viscous lava ...
es, which spread over
sedimentary rock
Sedimentary rocks are types of rock (geology), rock formed by the cementation (geology), cementation of sediments—i.e. particles made of minerals (geological detritus) or organic matter (biological detritus)—that have been accumulated or de ...
of the
Cretaceous
The Cretaceous ( ) is a geological period that lasted from about 143.1 to 66 mya (unit), million years ago (Mya). It is the third and final period of the Mesozoic Era (geology), Era, as well as the longest. At around 77.1 million years, it is the ...
period. Volcanic eruptions took place during 5 periods of activity beginning 6.1 million years ago. Most of the volcanic field was formed during the two most recent eruptive periods during the
Pleistocene
The Pleistocene ( ; referred to colloquially as the ''ice age, Ice Age'') is the geological epoch (geology), epoch that lasted from to 11,700 years ago, spanning the Earth's most recent period of repeated glaciations. Before a change was fin ...
ending about 300,000 years ago.
Because of the history of volcanic activity, it is considered part of the
Bering Sea Volcanic Province. The Ibkilwit Lava Bed is located on Nunivak Island.
Tundra
In physical geography, a tundra () is a type of biome where tree growth is hindered by frigid temperatures and short growing seasons. There are three regions and associated types of tundra: #Arctic, Arctic, Alpine tundra, Alpine, and #Antarctic ...
is the main landscape feature; the largest trees on Nunivak are dwarf
willow
Willows, also called sallows and osiers, of the genus ''Salix'', comprise around 350 species (plus numerous hybrids) of typically deciduous trees and shrubs, found primarily on moist soils in cold and temperate regions.
Most species are known ...
trees, most less than 4 ft (1.2 m) tall. More than 40 rivers drain the tundra upland.
Brackish
Brackish water, sometimes termed brack water, is water occurring in a natural environment that has more salinity than freshwater, but not as much as seawater. It may result from mixing seawater (salt water) and fresh water together, as in estuari ...
lagoons
A lagoon is a shallow body of water separated from a larger body of water by a narrow landform, such as reefs, barrier islands, barrier peninsulas, or isthmuses. Lagoons are commonly divided into '' coastal lagoons'' (or ''barrier lagoons'') a ...
ring the eastern and southern shores, and steep, volcanic cliffs dominate the northwest shores.
At least 89 migratory
seabird
Seabirds (also known as marine birds) are birds that are adaptation, adapted to life within the marine ecosystem, marine environment. While seabirds vary greatly in lifestyle, behaviour and physiology, they often exhibit striking convergent ...
and
waterfowl
Anseriformes is an order of birds also known as waterfowl that comprises about 180 living species of birds in three families: Anhimidae (three species of screamers), Anseranatidae (the magpie goose), and Anatidae, the largest family, which i ...
species have seasonal homes on Nunivak Island, including several endangered and threatened species. Dense summer-breeding
rookeries are found on all shores of the island, and in inland tundra lakes.
Prehistorically, Nunivak was home to a modest herd of
caribou
The reindeer or caribou (''Rangifer tarandus'') is a species of deer with circumpolar distribution, native to Arctic, subarctic, tundra, boreal, and mountainous regions of Northern Europe, Siberia, and North America. It is the only represe ...
, but these were exterminated after the introduction of firearms in the late 19th and early 20th century. The
United States Fish and Wildlife Service
The United States Fish and Wildlife Service (USFWS or FWS) is a List of federal agencies in the United States, U.S. federal government agency within the United States Department of the Interior which oversees the management of fish, wildlife, ...
introduced
reindeer
The reindeer or caribou (''Rangifer tarandus'') is a species of deer with circumpolar distribution, native to Arctic, subarctic, tundra, taiga, boreal, and mountainous regions of Northern Europe, Siberia, and North America. It is the only re ...
(the smaller Eurasian caribou) and
musk ox
Musk is a class of aromatic substances commonly used as base notes in perfumery. They include glandular secretions from animals such as the musk deer, numerous plants emitting similar fragrances, and artificial substances with similar odors. ' ...
en onto the island in the 1930s and 1940s. Large herds of these animals are maintained by the local Native Corporation of
Mekoryuk. The muskoxen are most valued for their wool, or
qiviut, which is collected after the animals shed in springtime for spinning into yarn, with one skein sometimes selling for $100.
Most of the island is part of the
Yukon Delta National Wildlife Refuge, administered by the
U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The southern half of the island (600,000 acres) is protected as the Nunivak Wilderness.
Culture
The art of Nunivak Island has its roots in the ancient past. The oldest known sculpture is thousands of years old.
In the ancient times masks were made to sell or trade for goods needed to survive. Later masks were intended for festivities,
dances
Dance is an The arts, art form, consisting of sequences of body movements with aesthetic and often Symbol, symbolic value, either improvised or purposefully selected. Dance can be categorized and described by its choreography, by its repertoir ...
, and traditional healing.

This type of mask (there are many types of masks carved today) represents the life surrounding Nunivak Island. The walrus is what the loon depends on for survival. And, in turn, man depends on the loon and the walrus for survival. These are two of the traditional animals that were hunted by the men of the village in order to provide for their families.
The walrus is what the Nunivak peoples depended on to survive. It held much of the necessities of living in the Bering Sea. The skin of the walrus was used for waterproofing kayaks, the soles of mukluks (
Cup'ig boots), and the intestine was used as waterproof rain gear that were of great necessity in earlier times. The bones were used as tools, the ivory for spear heads, and harpoon heads and carvings were made for trade. Also the loon pelts were transformed into beautiful winter coats that were also waterproof.
Demographics
Nunivak Island first reported on the 1880 U.S. Census as an unincorporated island, with 400 Yupik residents.
In 1890, the villages on the island reported separately. It next reported in 1910 for the entire island through to 1940. Since 1950, any settlements on the island have reported separately again, though all residents now reside in Mekoryuk as of 2000 and 2010.
Population
In 2004, 179 people lived on the island; According to the 2000 census, the population was 210. They all live in a single village on the island of
Mekoryuk, located on the north coast of Nunivak. During the 1880 US
Census
A census (from Latin ''censere'', 'to assess') is the procedure of systematically acquiring, recording, and calculating population information about the members of a given Statistical population, population, usually displayed in the form of stati ...
, 702 islanders in nine settlements were recorded. An epidemic in 1900 devastated the population of the island. The constant exodus of people prevents population growth. Although almost all local people in Nunivak speak
English; they speak the
Nunivak Chupik dialect of the central Yupik language. Preservation of the
Chupik language, which is taught in schools, is underway. Islanders still rely on hunting, as well as commercial fishing and seasonal work on the mainland.
See also
*
Nunathloogagamiutbingoi Dunes
Notes
Further reading
Nunivak EskimoMargaret Lantis in ''Handbook of North American Indians v5 Arctic'' pp 209–223. Government Printing Office, Washington. Copyright 1984 Smithsonian institution.
Nunivak Island Eskimo (Yuit) technology and material culture (1989)VanStone, James W; Field Museum of Natural History. Fieldiana: Anthropology, new series, no.12 Chicago, Ill.: Field Museum of Natural History. In copyright, digitized with the permission of the Chicago Field Museum. This is VanStone's write-up of Margaret Lantis's material culture collection and notes.
The social culture of the Nunivak Eskimo Margaret Lantis. Transactions, American Philosophical Society (vol. 35, Part 3, 1946)
Charles C. Hughes. Review of "Eskimo Childhood and Interpersonal Relationships: Nunivak Biographies and Genealogies" by Margaret LantisAmerican Anthropologist, New Series, Vol. 63, No. 5, Part 1 (Oct., 1961), pp. 1133–1135 (3-page review; good summary).
Fish and Wildlife Resources of Nunivak Island, Part 1, Fisheries– March 21, 1966 Jerry Hout, U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Subsistence fishing. Maps, photos.
External links
Summer Field Science Camp UAF Kuskokwim CampusNunivak Photos from the 50sHistoric Nunivak PhotosNuniwarmiut Piciryarata Tamaryalkuti 'Nunivak Cultural ProgramsNunivak island spirit masks and other art carvingsPaul Souders. Ellikarrmiut Economy. Animal Resource Use at Nash Harbor (49-NI-003), Nunivak Island, Alaska Archaeology at Nash Harbor; bibliography.
Burges Smith diary concerning Nunivak Island Musk Ox Expeditionat Dartmouth College Library
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Islands of Bethel Census Area, Alaska
Landforms of Bethel Census Area, Alaska
Islands of the Bering Sea
Islands of Alaska
Volcanoes of Alaska
Maars of Alaska
Volcanoes of the Pacific Ocean
Volcanoes of Unorganized Borough, Alaska
Cinder cones of the United States
Islands of Unorganized Borough, Alaska
Pleistocene shield volcanoes
Shield volcanoes of the United States