Neal Moore (born November 22, 1971) is an American writer and
canoeist. He is the author of two non-fiction books—''Down the Mississippi''
and ''Homelands: A Memoir''
—as well as numerous news articles. The Mark Twain Museum,
''
CNN
Cable News Network (CNN) is a multinational news organization operating, most notably, a website and a TV channel headquartered in Atlanta. Founded in 1980 by American media proprietor Ted Turner and Reese Schonfeld as a 24-hour cable ne ...
''
and ''
The Times of London''
have dubbed him "the modern-day
Huckleberry Finn
Huckleberry "Huck" Finn is a fictional character created by Mark Twain who first appeared in the book ''The Adventures of Tom Sawyer'' (1876) and is the protagonist and narrator of its sequel, '' Adventures of Huckleberry Finn'' (1884). He is 12 ...
.”
Moore is the first person known to paddle a canoe solo and continuously across the United States from the West Coast to the East Coast.
His journey linked 22 rivers and waterways in 22 states over 22 months, from
Astoria, Oregon
Astoria is a Port, port city in and the county seat of Clatsop County, Oregon, United States. Founded in 1811, Astoria is the oldest city in the state and was the first permanent American settlement west of the Rocky Mountains. The county is the ...
, to
New York City
New York, often called New York City (NYC), is the most populous city in the United States, located at the southern tip of New York State on one of the world's largest natural harbors. The city comprises five boroughs, each coextensive w ...
, with a circuit of the
Statue of Liberty
The Statue of Liberty (''Liberty Enlightening the World''; ) is a colossal neoclassical sculpture on Liberty Island in New York Harbor, within New York City. The copper-clad statue, a gift to the United States from the people of French Thir ...
as the grand finale.
Early life and education
Moore was born and raised in
Los Angeles
Los Angeles, often referred to by its initials L.A., is the List of municipalities in California, most populous city in the U.S. state of California, and the commercial, Financial District, Los Angeles, financial, and Culture of Los Angeles, ...
,
California
California () is a U.S. state, state in the Western United States that lies on the West Coast of the United States, Pacific Coast. It borders Oregon to the north, Nevada and Arizona to the east, and shares Mexico–United States border, an ...
, where he attended
Highland Hall Waldorf School
Highland Hall Waldorf School is an independent alternative school located on a campus in Northridge, Los Angeles, California. It serves children from nursery through grade twelve with additional Parent and Child classes. Established in 1955, th ...
and was neighbors with the actor and comedian
Richard Pryor
Richard Franklin Lennox Thomas Pryor Sr. (December 1, 1940 – December 10, 2005) was an American stand-up comedian and actor. Known for reaching a broad audience with his trenchant observations and storytelling style, he is widely regarded ...
.
He lost his mother and his only sibling, an older brother, while still a teenager. By 19, he moved to
South Africa
South Africa, officially the Republic of South Africa (RSA), is the Southern Africa, southernmost country in Africa. Its Provinces of South Africa, nine provinces are bounded to the south by of coastline that stretches along the Atlantic O ...
to serve a mission for
the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints
The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, informally known as the LDS Church or Mormon Church, is a Nontrinitarianism, nontrinitarian Restorationism, restorationist Christianity, Christian Christian denomination, denomination and the ...
, an experience he later wrote about as a non-practicing
Mormon
Mormons are a religious and cultural group related to Mormonism, the principal branch of the Latter Day Saint movement started by Joseph Smith in upstate New York during the 1820s. After Smith's death in 1844, the movement split into several ...
, published by ''
Der Spiegel
(, , stylized in all caps) is a German weekly news magazine published in Hamburg. With a weekly circulation of about 724,000 copies in 2022, it is one of the largest such publications in Europe. It was founded in 1947 by John Seymour Chaloner ...
''
and expanded into a memoir, ''Homelands''.
Moore attended the
University of Utah
The University of Utah (the U, U of U, or simply Utah) is a public university, public research university in Salt Lake City, Utah, United States. It was established in 1850 as the University of Deseret (Book of Mormon), Deseret by the General A ...
in
Salt Lake City, Utah
Salt Lake City, often shortened to Salt Lake or SLC, is the List of capitals in the United States, capital and List of cities and towns in Utah, most populous city of the U.S. state of Utah. It is the county seat of Salt Lake County, Utah, Salt ...
, where he graduated in 1997 with a degree in English Literature. Moore has lived most of the last three decades between
Cape Town
Cape Town is the legislature, legislative capital city, capital of South Africa. It is the country's oldest city and the seat of the Parliament of South Africa. Cape Town is the country's List of municipalities in South Africa, second-largest ...
and
Taipei
, nickname = The City of Azaleas
, image_map =
, map_caption =
, pushpin_map = Taiwan#Asia#Pacific Ocean#Earth
, coordinates =
, subdivision_type = Country ...
, which he has used as springboards for other adventures. He has sporadically returned to his native United States as a journalist and long-haul canoeist.
Career
Canoeing

Moore's interest in canoeing was sparked by
Eddy L. Harris’s memoir of his descent of the
Mississippi River
The Mississippi River is the main stem, primary river of the largest drainage basin in the United States. It is the second-longest river in the United States, behind only the Missouri River, Missouri. From its traditional source of Lake Ita ...
, titled ''Mississippi Solo''.
In 2009, Moore canoed the length of the Mississippi while reporting as a
citizen journalist
Citizen journalism, also known as collaborative media, participatory journalism, democratic journalism, guerrilla journalism, grassroots journalism, or street journalism, is based upon members of the community playing an active role in the pro ...
for ''CNN'' on the human face of the
Great Recession
The Great Recession was a period of market decline in economies around the world that occurred from late 2007 to mid-2009. . The expedition was featured by ''CNN.com Specials''.
It was on this journey that Moore met and befriended fellow canoeist
Dick Conant – the subject of ''The New Yorker'' writer
Ben McGrath’s book ''Riverman: An American Odyssey''
– who encouraged Moore to “string rivers together” to make a grand adventure.
Following the 2014 disappearance and presumed death of Dick Conant on a canoe expedition along the
Intracoastal Waterway
The Intracoastal Waterway (ICW) is a Navigability, inland waterway along the Atlantic and Gulf of Mexico coasts of the United States, running from Massachusetts southward along the Atlantic Seaboard and around the southern tip of Florida, the ...
of coastal
North Carolina
North Carolina ( ) is a U.S. state, state in the Southeastern United States, Southeastern region of the United States. It is bordered by Virginia to the north, the Atlantic Ocean to the east, South Carolina to the south, Georgia (U.S. stat ...
,
in 2018, Moore attempted to paddle a canoe from the West Coast to the East Coast but was hampered by flooding on the
Columbia River
The Columbia River (Upper Chinook language, Upper Chinook: ' or '; Sahaptin language, Sahaptin: ''Nch’i-Wàna'' or ''Nchi wana''; Sinixt dialect'' '') is the largest river in the Pacific Northwest region of North America. The river headwater ...
, the
Spokane River
The Spokane River is a tributary of the Columbia River, approximately long, in northern Idaho and eastern Washington in the United States. It drains a low mountainous area east of the Columbia, passing through the Spokane Valley and the city o ...
and the
Clark Fork River
The Clark Fork, or the Clark Fork of the Columbia River, is a river in the U.S. states of Montana and Idaho, approximately long. It is named after William Clark of the 1806 Lewis and Clark Expedition. The largest river by volume in Montana, it ...
, along with a near-fatal tip-in on the
St. Regis River
The St. Regis River (or rivière Saint-Régis in Quebec) is an river in northern New York (state), New York in the United States. It flows into the Saint Lawrence River at the hamlet of Saint Regis, New York, Saint Regis in the St. Regis Moha ...
in
Western Montana.
After paddling and portaging 1,800 miles from the Pacific Coast, Moore hung up his paddles in North Dakota. He would re-attempt his coast-to-coast odyssey a year and a half later, back from the start in Astoria, Oregon in February, 2020.
For 675 days, from February 9, 2020, until December 14, 2021, Moore successfully crossed the United States in his canoe from Astoria, Oregon to New York City. His trip took place in the midst of the
COVID-19 pandemic
The COVID-19 pandemic (also known as the coronavirus pandemic and COVID pandemic), caused by severe acute respiratory syndrome coronavirus 2 (SARS-CoV-2), began with an disease outbreak, outbreak of COVID-19 in Wuhan, China, in December ...
and the year leading into and following the contentious
2020 United States presidential election
United States presidential election, Presidential elections were held in the United States on November 3, 2020. The Democratic Party (United States), Democratic ticket of former vice president Joe Biden and California junior senator Kamala H ...
as he explored the threads that tie Americans together – even during a time of extreme polarization by race, class and political ideology.
His solo, continuous 7,500-mile journey, considered a first from west to east,
was covered by media around the world
and recognized with one of
Topps
The Topps Company, Inc. is an American company that manufactures trading cards and other collectibles. Formerly based in New York City, Topps is best known as a leading producer of Baseball card, baseball and other sports and Non-sports tradi ...
most distinctive badges—a Topps
Allen & Ginter baseball card.
Journalism

Much of Moore's popularity as a writer came from his work as a citizen journalist for ''
CNN
Cable News Network (CNN) is a multinational news organization operating, most notably, a website and a TV channel headquartered in Atlanta. Founded in 1980 by American media proprietor Ted Turner and Reese Schonfeld as a 24-hour cable ne ...
''. Between July and December 2009, he canoed the length of the Mississippi River, sourcing, capturing and uploading 50 roving stories on the
Great Recession
The Great Recession was a period of market decline in economies around the world that occurred from late 2007 to mid-2009. .
In addition to his work on
canoeing
Canoeing is an activity which involves paddling a canoe with a single-bladed paddle. In some parts of Europe, canoeing refers to both canoeing and kayaking, with a canoe being called an 'open canoe' or Canadian.
A few of the recreational ...
, the topics he covered as a freelance writer varied greatly; his work has also appeared in ''
The New Yorker
''The New Yorker'' is an American magazine featuring journalism, commentary, criticism, essays, fiction, satire, cartoons, and poetry. It was founded on February 21, 1925, by Harold Ross and his wife Jane Grant, a reporter for ''The New York T ...
'',
''
Der Spiegel
(, , stylized in all caps) is a German weekly news magazine published in Hamburg. With a weekly circulation of about 724,000 copies in 2022, it is one of the largest such publications in Europe. It was founded in 1947 by John Seymour Chaloner ...
'',
and on ''
CNN International
Cable News Network International or CNN International (CNNi, simply branded on-air as CNN) is an international television channel and website, owned by CNN Worldwide. CNN International carries news-related programming worldwide; it cooperates ...
.''
In
Taiwan
Taiwan, officially the Republic of China (ROC), is a country in East Asia. The main geography of Taiwan, island of Taiwan, also known as ''Formosa'', lies between the East China Sea, East and South China Seas in the northwestern Pacific Ocea ...
, Moore explored trilateral relations between the United States, the
People's Republic of China
China, officially the People's Republic of China (PRC), is a country in East Asia. With population of China, a population exceeding 1.4 billion, it is the list of countries by population (United Nations), second-most populous country after ...
, and the
Republic of China
Taiwan, officially the Republic of China (ROC), is a country in East Asia. The main geography of Taiwan, island of Taiwan, also known as ''Formosa'', lies between the East China Sea, East and South China Seas in the northwestern Pacific Ocea ...
by reporting on the 30th anniversary of the
Taiwan Relations Act
The Taiwan Relations Act (TRA; ) is an Act of Congress, act of the United States Congress. Since the Joint Communiqué on the Establishment of Diplomatic Relations, formal recognition of the China, People's Republic of China, the Act has defined ...
, interviewing American writer and
diplomat
A diplomat (from ; romanization, romanized ''diploma'') is a person appointed by a state (polity), state, International organization, intergovernmental, or Non-governmental organization, nongovernmental institution to conduct diplomacy with one ...
Syd Goldsmith, Taiwan Foreign Minister
Joseph Wu of the
Democratic Progressive Party
The Democratic Progressive Party (DPP) is a centre to centre-left Taiwanese nationalist political party in Taiwan. As the dominant party in the Pan-Green Coalition, one of the two main political camps in Taiwan, the DPP is currently the ...
and
Taichung
Taichung (, Wade–Giles: '), officially Taichung City, is a special municipality (Taiwan), special municipality in central Taiwan. Taichung is Taiwan's second-largest city, with more than 2.85 million residents, making it the largest city in Ce ...
mayor
Jason Hu
Hu Chih-chiang (; born 15 May 1948), also known by his English name Jason Hu, is a Taiwanese diplomat and politician. He served as the mayor of Taichung from 2001 to 2014, when the city was a Provincial city (Taiwan), provincial city (2001–2 ...
of the
Kuomintang
The Kuomintang (KMT) is a major political party in the Republic of China (Taiwan). It was the one party state, sole ruling party of the country Republic of China (1912-1949), during its rule from 1927 to 1949 in Mainland China until Retreat ...
. He covered the Mainland Chinese
dissident
A dissident is a person who actively challenges an established political or religious system, doctrine, belief, policy, or institution. In a religious context, the word has been used since the 18th century, and in the political sense since the 2 ...
beat, interviewing
Wu’er Kaixi in 2011 on the cusp of the
Jasmine Revolution, along with Chinese
cyber-dissident
A cyber-dissident is a professional journalist, an activist or citizen journalist who posts news, information, or commentary on the internet that implies criticism of a government or regime.
At least two nonprofit organizations are currently w ...
s
Cai Lujun
Cai Lujun (; born July 16, 1968) is a Chinese dissident writer.
Biography
Cai Lujun was born in Feixiang County, Hebei Province. He was an owner of a foreign trading company and a freelance writer. He graduated from secondary school.
Cai was o ...
and Li JiaBao.
For the 25th anniversary of the
Tiananmen Square
Tiananmen Square or Tian'anmen Square () is a city square in the city center of Beijing, China, named after the Tiananmen ("''Gate of Heavenly Peace''") located to its north, which separates it from the Forbidden City. The square contains th ...
crackdown in
Beijing
Beijing, Chinese postal romanization, previously romanized as Peking, is the capital city of China. With more than 22 million residents, it is the world's List of national capitals by population, most populous national capital city as well as ...
, Moore spoke with
Wang Dan (dissident)
Wang Dan ( zh, c=王丹; born 26 February 1969) is a leader of the Chinese democracy movement and was one of the most visible student leaders in the Tiananmen Square protests of 1989. He holds a PhD in history from Harvard University, and from ...
, the protest's most visible student leader. On China's future, Wang told Moore, “There will be only two choices: Democracy, or die.”
Books
''Down the Mississippi''
''Down the Mississippi'' (2012) is a
non-fiction
Non-fiction (or nonfiction) is any document or content (media), media content that attempts, in good faith, to convey information only about the real life, real world, rather than being grounded in imagination. Non-fiction typically aims to pre ...
account of a solo canoe voyage from the Mississippi's headwaters at Lake Itasca in Minnesota to New Orleans in 2009. This work combined aspects of journalism, travel writing, autobiography and memoir, and personal reflection, and, as with Moore's subsequent work, focused specifically on questions of identity in relation to race, class and political stripe. It was co-authored by
Mark Twain
Samuel Langhorne Clemens (November 30, 1835 – April 21, 1910), known by the pen name Mark Twain, was an American writer, humorist, and essayist. He was praised as the "greatest humorist the United States has produced," with William Fau ...
scholar
Cindy Lovell.
''Homelands: A Memoir''
In 2017, Moore expanded his August 2013 ''
Der Spiegel
(, , stylized in all caps) is a German weekly news magazine published in Hamburg. With a weekly circulation of about 724,000 copies in 2022, it is one of the largest such publications in Europe. It was founded in 1947 by John Seymour Chaloner ...
'' article
into ''Homelands: A Memoir''. The book describes his time as a naïve, 19-year-old drug-addled sixth-generation Mormon missionary in
South Africa
South Africa, officially the Republic of South Africa (RSA), is the Southern Africa, southernmost country in Africa. Its Provinces of South Africa, nine provinces are bounded to the south by of coastline that stretches along the Atlantic O ...
as the
Group Areas Act
Group Areas Act was the title of three acts of the Parliament of South Africa enacted under the apartheid government of South Africa. The acts assigned racial groups to different residential and business sections in urban areas in a syste ...
of
Apartheid
Apartheid ( , especially South African English: , ; , ) was a system of institutionalised racial segregation that existed in South Africa and South West Africa (now Namibia) from 1948 to the early 1990s. It was characterised by an ...
was beginning to unravel. The coming-of-age story is set against the backdrop of the
Bantustans
A Bantustan (also known as a Bantu homeland, a black homeland, a black state or simply known as a homeland; ) was a territory that the National Party administration of the Union of South Africa (1910–1961) and later the Republic of Sout ...
of the tribal
Ciskei
Ciskei ( , meaning ''on this side of Great Kei River, he riverKei''), officially the Republic of Ciskei (), was a Bantustan for the Xhosa people, located in the southeast of South Africa. It covered an area of , almost entirely surrounded b ...
and
Transkei
Transkei ( , meaning ''the area beyond Great Kei River, he riverKei''), officially the Republic of Transkei (), was an list of historical unrecognized states and dependencies, unrecognised state in the southeastern region of South Africa f ...
between the volatile years of
Nelson Mandela
Nelson Rolihlahla Mandela ( , ; born Rolihlahla Mandela; 18 July 1918 – 5 December 2013) was a South African Internal resistance to apartheid, anti-apartheid activist and politician who served as the first president of South Africa f ...
’s release from prison and ascension to power.
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Moore, Neal
1971 births
Living people
21st-century American male writers
21st-century American non-fiction writers
American canoeists
American journalists
American male canoeists
American male journalists
American non-fiction outdoors writers
Journalists from California
Mormon studies scholars
Writers from Los Angeles
University of Utah alumni
Highland Hall Waldorf School alumni
20th-century American sportsmen