Murtle Lake is a
lava dammed lake
A lake is an area filled with water, localized in a basin, surrounded by land, and distinct from any river or other outlet that serves to feed or drain the lake. Lakes lie on land and are not part of the ocean, although, like the much lar ...
located in
Wells Gray Provincial Park
Wells Gray Provincial Park is a large wilderness park located in east-central British Columbia, Canada. The park protects most of the southern, and highest, regions of the Cariboo Mountains and covers 5,250 square kilometres (524,990 hectares or ...
, east-central
British Columbia
British Columbia (commonly abbreviated as BC) is the westernmost Provinces and territories of Canada, province of Canada, situated between the Pacific Ocean and the Rocky Mountains. It has a diverse geography, with rugged landscapes that include ...
, Canada.
It is fed primarily by the
Murtle River
The Murtle River is a river in east-central British Columbia, Canada. It rises from a large unnamed glacier in the Cariboo Mountains at an elevation of and flows southwest for to the head of gigantic Murtle Lake. The river also drains Murtle Lak ...
which rises from a large unnamed glacier in the
Cariboo Mountains
The Cariboo Mountains are the northernmost subrange of the Columbia Mountains, which run down into the Spokane area of the United States and include the Selkirks, Monashees and Purcells. The Cariboo Mountains are entirely within the provinc ...
at an elevation of and flows southwest for to the lake. The Murtle River also drains Murtle Lake then flows southwest for into the
Clearwater River.
[Neave, Roland (2015). ''Exploring Wells Gray Park'', 6th edition. Wells Gray Tours, Kamloops, BC. .]
Murtle Lake looks like a reversed letter 'L' with two arms. The North Arm extends fjord-like deep into the Cariboo Mountains. The West Arm, which attracts the most visitors, has extensive sandy beaches, many coves and three islands. The Wavy Range rises above the east shore of the north arm. Central Mountain occupies the bend between the two arms. The valley of Stevens Lakes extends to the south towards Battle Mountain.
In 1968, about 40% of Wells Gray Park or was set aside as the Murtle Lake Nature Conservancy and gave this area a high level of protection from development. Two years later, motorboats and aircraft were banned and today Murtle Lake is the largest lake in North America where only canoes and kayaks are allowed.
Access and trails
The only way to get to Murtle Lake is by a road off the
Yellowhead Highway
The Yellowhead Highway (french: Route Yellowhead) is a major interprovincial highway in Western Canada that runs from Winnipeg to Graham Island off the coast of British Columbia via Saskatoon and Edmonton. It stretches across the four western ...
at
Blue River. It ends at the boundary of Wells Gray Park near Phyllis Lake. From here, visitors must portage a canoe or kayak for to the Murtle Lagoon. The trail is wide with a gentle gradient, so many visitors use a canoe cart instead of actually carrying it. Visitors without a canoe can continue on the trail for along the north shore of Murtle Lagoon to an extensive sandbar and a view of Murtle Lake itself.
There are 19 designated campsites with 66 spaces along the lakeshore. Visitors are not allowed to camp anywhere else. Review BC Parks regulations prior to your visit.
Eight trails leave the lakeshore: McDougall Falls, File Creek Portage Trail, McDougall Lake route, Anderson Lake, Central Mountain, Henrietta Lake, Strait Lake and Wavy Range. Refer to ''Exploring Wells Gray Park'' for detailed descriptions and starting points.
History and naming
The first recorded sighting of the lake was made by
Joseph Hunter, a surveyor working for the future
Canadian Pacific Railway
The Canadian Pacific Railway (french: Chemin de fer Canadien Pacifique) , also known simply as CPR or Canadian Pacific and formerly as CP Rail (1968–1996), is a Canadian Class I railway incorporated in 1881. The railway is owned by Canad ...
, on May 27, 1874. Hunter's expedition rafted across the
Clearwater River near The Horseshoe, headed east for about 13 km, and reached the Murtle River upstream from
Majerus Falls
Majerus Falls is one of seven waterfalls on the Murtle River west of Murtle Lake in Wells Gray Provincial Park, east-central British Columbia, Canada.
Majerus Falls is high and wide, a similar width to Dawson Falls downstream.Neave, Roland (202 ...
. He named the Murtle River, then Murtle Lake a few days later, for his birthplace in Scotland, Milton of Murtle, near Aberdeen.
Following is the first written description of Murtle Lake, taken from Joseph Hunter's diary: "From the head of the canyon
t McDougall Fallsto Camp 10, 2 1/2 miles...the river is from 175 to 200 feet wide. At Camp 10, where it has become a lake, one-fourth of a mile wide, we crossed on a raft, and travelling down a fine wide valley, due east, for five miles, reached a lake at 3,700 feet, the same altitude as Camp 10. I soon discovered that we had crossed an arm of this (Murtle Lake) early in the morning...It is enclosed on the east by low green hills; on the north the mountains are bold, high and rugged. On the south, the most important in case a line of railway should come this way, the mountains are steep but not rough, and generally keep well away from the lake, leaving a margin of hard, firm, level ground along the shore."
Hunter's expedition explored around Murtle Lake for four days and left via the low pass to the east. They reached the
North Thompson River
The North Thompson River is the northern branch of the Thompson River, the largest tributary of the Fraser River, in the Canadian province of British Columbia. It originates at the toe of the Thompson Glacier in the Premier Range of the Cariboo Mo ...
near Blue River on June 2.
Between 1872 and 1881, about 20 survey parties fanned out across British Columbia trying to find the best route for the new railway between
Yellowhead Pass
The Yellowhead Pass is a mountain pass across the Continental Divide of the Americas in the Canadian Rockies. It is located on the provincial boundary between the Canadian provinces of Alberta and British Columbia, and lies within Jasper Na ...
in the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Coast. Three survey parties visited what is now Wells Gray Park. When the more southern Kicking Horse Pass was chosen instead in 1881, all of these meticulously examined routes across the Canadian Cordilleran, including Hunter's, were abandoned. Only three place names in the Park recognize those 10 wasted years of surveys: Murtle River & Lake,
Mahood River & Lake, and Marcus Falls. The latter two refer to James Adam Mahood and Marcus Smith, leaders of two other railway surveys during the 1870s.
References
External links
BC Government website for Murtle Lake area of Wells Gray Provincial Park
{{authority control
Lakes of British Columbia
Wells Gray-Clearwater
Kamloops Division Yale Land District
sv:Clearwatersjön