Terry "Mugs" Stump (August 28, 1949 – May 21, 1992) was a noted American

rock climber Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in guidebooks, and ...

and

mountaineer Mountaineering, mountain climbing, or alpinism is a set of outdoor activities that involves ascending mountains. Mountaineering-related activities include traditional outdoor climbing, skiing, and traversing via ferratas that have become sports ...

, active in establishing difficult first ascents in the

Alaska Range The Alaska Range is a relatively narrow, mountain range in the Southcentral Alaska, southcentral region of the U.S. state of Alaska, from Lake Clark at its southwest endSources differ as to the exact delineation of the Alaska Range. ThBoard on G ...

and the

Canadian Rockies The Canadian Rockies () or Canadian Rocky Mountains, comprising both the Alberta Rockies and the British Columbian Rockies, is the Canadian segment of the North American Rocky Mountains. It is the easternmost part of the Canadian Cordillera, w ...

. He died from falling into a

crevasse A crevasse is a deep crack that forms in a glacier or ice sheet. Crevasses form as a result of the movement and resulting stress associated with the shear stress generated when two semi-rigid pieces above a plastic substrate have different rate ...

while descending the South Buttress of

Denali Denali (), federally designated as Mount McKinley, is the highest mountain peak in North America, with a summit elevation of above sea level. It is the tallest mountain in the world from base to peak on land, measuring . On p. 20 of Helm ...

on May 21, 1992, while guiding clients Bob Hoffman and Nelson Max. He is most noted for the first ascent of the ''Emperor Face'' on

Mount Robson Mount Robson is the most prominent mountain in North America's Rocky Mountain range; it is also the highest point in the Canadian Rockies. The mountain is located entirely within Mount Robson Provincial Park of British Columbia, and is part of ...

with Jamie Logan, and for three routes in the

, the ''East Face'' of

The Moose's Tooth The Moose's Tooth (or simply Moose's Tooth, Mooses Tooth) is a rock peak on the east side of the Ruth Gorge in the Central Alaska Range, 15 miles (24 km) southeast of Denali. Despite its relatively low elevation, it is a difficult climb. ...

, the ''Moonflower Buttress'' on Mount Hunter, and a one-day solo of Denali's ''Cassin Ridge''. Climber

Conrad Anker Conrad Anker (born November 27, 1962) is an American rock climber, mountaineer, and author. He was the team leader of The North Face climbing team for 26 years until 2018. In 1999, he located George Mallory's body on Everest as a member of a sea ...

credits Stump as an influential climbing mentor in the film ''

Meru Meru may refer to: Geography Kenya * Meru, Kenya, town in Meru County in the republic of Kenya * Meru County, one of Kenya's 47 counties that was created by the 2009 merger of 3 districts: ** Meru Central District ** Meru North District ** Meru S ...

''. Stump, along with his geologist brother, contributed to field safety for the

United States Antarctic Program The United States Antarctic Program (or USAP; formerly known as the United States Antarctic Research Program or USARP and the United States Antarctic Service or USAS) is an organization of the United States government which has a presence in the ...

scientists and other working on the continent for the

National Science Foundation The U.S. National Science Foundation (NSF) is an Independent agencies of the United States government#Examples of independent agencies, independent agency of the Federal government of the United States, United States federal government that su ...

. The Mugs Stump Alpine Climbing Award for aspiring alpine climbers is named in his honor.

Early life

Mugs was born in

Mifflintown, Pennsylvania Mifflintown is a borough in and the county seat of Juniata County, Pennsylvania, United States. The population was 840 at the 2020 census. Geography Mifflintown is located at (40.570728, -77.395488). According to the United States Census ...

, where he grew up fishing, hunting, and camping with his father Warren and three brothers.

First ascents and notable ascents

* 1978 ''Stump/Logan'', Emperor Face, Mount Robson (VI 5.9 A2 2500m) with Jamie Logan. * 1981 ''Dance of the Woo Li Masters'', East Face of

, Ruth Gorge, Alaska, US (VI 5.9 WI4+ A4, 1520m) with Jim Bridwell * 1981 ''Moonflower Buttress'', North Buttress of Mount Hunter, Alaska Range (Alaska Grade 6: 5.8 A3 AI6, 6100') with Paul Aubrey(NZ). FA to ridge crest. * 1987 ''South Face'' Broken Tooth, Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range (IV 5.10+ A3). FA with Steve Quinlan * 1990 ''Rodeo Queen'', Streaked Wall,

Zion National Park Zion National Park is a national park of the United States located in southwestern Utah near the town of Springdale. Located at the junction of the Colorado Plateau, Great Basin, and Mojave Desert regions, the park has a unique geography and a ...

, FA with

* 1991 ''Freezer Burn'' aka ''Free or Burn'' (IV 5.11+), East Temple,

, Utah; FFA with Lynn Wheeler *1992 First winter ascent of Hallucinogin Wall, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, with John Middendorf. First Time a major Black Canyon big wall ascended in winter.

References

External links

The Dream – A Journey of the Spirit with Mugs Stump

mugs
American mountain climbers American rock climbers Mountaineering deaths 1992 deaths 1949 births People from Juniata County, Pennsylvania {{climbingbio-stub Deaths on Denali