Mount Kinabalu

Mount Kinabalu ( Dusun: ''Gayo Ngaran'' or ''Nulu Nabalu'', ) is the highest mountain in Malaysia and Borneo. With a height of , it is the third-highest peak of an island on Earth, the 28th highest peak in Southeast Asia, and 20th most prominent mountain in the world. The mountain is located in Ranau district, West Coast Division of Sabah, Malaysia. It is protected as Kinabalu Park, a World Heritage Site.

In 1997, a re-survey using satellite technology was conducted. It established Mount Kinabalu had a summit (known as Low's Peak) height of above sea level, some less than the hitherto published figure of . Phillipps, A. & F. Liew 2000. ''Globetrotter Visitor's Guide – Kinabalu Park''. New Holland Publishers (UK) Ltd.

The mountain and its surroundings have exceptional biodiversity, with 5,000 to 6,000 species of plants, 326 species of birds, and over 100 mammalian species identified. Among this rich collection of wildlife are famous species such as the ''Rafflesia'' plants and orangutans.

Low's Peak can be climbed by a person in good physical condition without mountaineering equipment on the main route. However, climbers must be accompanied by accredited guides at all times due to national park regulations and the risk of experiencing altitude sickness.

Geology

Mount Kinabalu is a massive pluton formed from granodiorite which is intrusive into sedimentary and ultrabasic rocks, and forms the central part, or core, of the Kinabalu massif. The granodiorite is intrusive into strongly folded strata, probably of Eocene to Miocene age, and associated ultrabasic and basic igneous rocks. It was pushed up from the Earth's crust as molten rock millions of years ago. In geological terms, it is a very young mountain as the granodiorite cooled and hardened only about 10 million years ago.

The present landform is considered to be a mid-Pliocene Epoch of about 100,000 years ago, the mountain was covered by sheets of ice and glaciers. As these glaciers flowed down its slopes, they scoured the surface of Mount Kinabalu in the process and creating the deep Low's Gully (named after Hugh Low) on its north side. Its granitic composition and the glacial formative processes are readily apparent when viewing its craggy rocky peaks.

IUGS geological heritage site

In respect of it being 'one of the youngest granitic intrusions exposed on Earth and the site of spectacular tropical glacial landscapes', the International Union of Geological Sciences (IUGS) included the 'Mount Kinabalu Neogene granite' in its assemblage of 100 'geological heritage sites' around the world in a listing published in October 2022. The organisation defines an IUGS Geological Heritage Site as 'a key place with geological elements and/or processes of international scientific relevance, used as a reference, and/or with a substantial contribution to the development of geological sciences through history.'

Climate

The climate of the mountain varies from humid tropical at its base to alpine at its summit.Beaman, J.H., Beaman, R.S. (1990). Diversity and distribution patterns in the flora of Mount Kinabalu. In: Baas, P., Kalkman, K., Geesink, R. (eds) The Plant Diversity of Malesia. Springer, Dordrecht. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-009-2107-8_14 The temperature at the summit of Mount Kinabalu ranges from from December to January, and from June to September. Depending on how cold the mountain remains from December to January, there are a few occasions where frost and ice appear at the summit of Mount Kinabalu. Snow has been recorded three times in this area; in 1975, 1993 and 2022.

Biology

Mount Kinabalu, along with other upland areas of the Crocker Mountains, is known worldwide for its biodiversity with plants of Himalayan, Australasian, and Indomalayan origin. A recent botanical survey of the mountain estimated a staggering 5,000 to 6,000 plant species (excluding mosses and liverwort but including ferns) thrive upon the mountain. It is therefore one of the world's most important biological sites. A reason for its rich diversity and endemisms is that its extreme height provides refuge to cold-adapted species during interglacials.Miguel Camacho-Sanchez, Irene Quintanilla, Melissa T. R. Hawkins, Fred Y. Y. Tuh, Konstans Wells, Jesus E. Maldonado and Jennifer A. Leonard. 2018. "Interglacial refugia on tropical mountains: novel insights from the summit rat (Rattus baluensis), a Borneo mountain endemic". Diversity and Distributions, 24: 1252–1266. https://doi.org/10.1111/ddi.12761

In 2015, a major Malaysian-Dutch study showed that the unique flora, fauna, and fungi on the mountain summit are younger than the mountain itself, and have evolved from both local and distant montane ancestors.

Flora

The flora of the mountain varies with elevation and geology. Lowland forest extends up to about 1,500 metres (4,921 ft) elevation, and consists of two main types, based on the dominant tree species – mixed dipterocarp forest and mixed Casuarina forest. Lowland forests generally have a closed canopy 40 meters tall (131 ft), along with an understory stratum of lower trees, and an emergent stratum of taller trees which extend above the canopy.van der Ent, A., Erskine, P., Mulligan, D., Repin, R., & Karim, R. (2016). Vegetation on ultramafic edaphic “islands” in Kinabalu Park (Sabah, Malaysia) in relation to soil chemistry and elevation. ''Plant and Soil'', 403(1/2), 77–101. http://www.jstor.org/stable/43872634

Montane rain forest, also known as cloud forest, extends from approximately 1,400 metres elevation up to 2,900 metres (4,593 to 9,514 ft). Montane forest typically has a closed canopy with single stratum, and the canopy height generally decreases with elevation. Typical trees include species of the plant families Fagaceae and Lauraceae, with conifers increasingly abundant at higher elevations. The lower montane forests have a high diversity of orchid and fern species. Carnivorous plants, including species of ''Nepenthes'', ''Drosera'', and ''Utricularia'', are most diverse between 2,200 and 2,550 meters elevation, in areas with high rainfall and a stunted, open tree canopy. The montane forests are interspersed with areas of graminoid scrub, generally associated with hypermagnesic cambisol soils.

Sub-alpine scrub extends from . It includes short trees and shrubs such the conifer ''Dacrydium gibbsiae'', ''Leptospermum recurvum'', and species from the plant families Myrtaceae and Ericaceae, along with dwarf shrubs, mosses, lichens, liverworts, and ferns. Orchids are abundant and diverse in subalpine and alpine plant communities, except at the highest summits. Above 3,500 meters conditions are too extreme for trees, and above 3,700 meters persistent ground frost limits plants to the hardiest grasses, sedges and dwarf shrubs, including ''Leptospermum recurvatum'' and ''Rhododendron ericoides'', which grow in crevices and other sheltered areas on the rocky summits.Wikramanayake, Eric
Kinabalu Montane Alpine Meadows
''One Earth''. Accessed 5 March 2023.

The plants of Mount Kinabalu have high levels of biodiversity and endemism (i.e. species which are found only within Kinabalu Park and are not found anywhere else in the world). Orchids are the best-known example, with 866 species in 134 genera, including species of ''Bulbophyllum, Dendrobium, Coelogyne, Liparis'', and ''Calanthe'', and some of the highly valued ''Paphiopedilum'' slipper orchids. There are also over 600 species of ferns (more than the whole of Africa's 500 species) of which 50 are found nowhere else. Mount Kinabalu has the richest collection in the world of ''Nepenthes'' pitcher plants (five of the thirteen are found nowhere else on earth), some of which reach spectacular proportions (the largest-pitchered in the world being the endemic ''Nepenthes rajah'').Kurata, S. 1976. '' Nepenthes of Mount Kinabalu''. Sabah National Parks Publications No. 2, Sabah National Parks Trustees, Kota Kinabalu. The parasitic ''Rafflesia'' plant, which has the largest single flower in the world, is also found in Kinabalu (particularly '' Rafflesia keithii'' whose flower grows to in diameter), though blooms of the flower are rare and difficult to find. Meanwhile, another ''Rafflesia'' species, '' Rafflesia tengku-adlinii'', can be found on the neighbouring Mount Trus Madi and the nearby Maliau Basin.

Mount Kinabalu's above-average biodiversity in plant life is due to a combination of several unique factors: its setting in one of the richest plant regions of the world (the tropical biogeographical region known as western Malesia which comprises the island of Sumatra, the Malay Peninsula, and the island of Borneo), the fact that the mountain covers a wide climatic range from near sea level to freezing ground conditions near the summit, the jagged terrain and diversity of rocks and soils, the high levels of rainfall (averaging about a year at park HQ), and the climatic instability caused by periods of glaciation and catastrophic droughts which result in evolution and speciation. This diversity is greatest in the lowland regions (consisting of lowland dipterocarp forests, so called because the tree family Dipterocarpaceae are dominant). However, most of Kinabalu's endemic species are found in the mountain forests, particularly on ultramafic soils.

The ultramafic rocks which make up parts of the mountain create soils rich in certain metallic elements (nickel, cobalt, chromium, and manganese), high cation imbalances (high Mg:Ca molar quotients), and deficiencies of some nutrients including potassium and phosphorus. These soil conditions affect the plant life, and plant communities on ultramafic soils show lower stature and lower biomass, higher levels of endemism, and a distinct species composition compared to plant communities at similar elevations elsewhere on the mountain.

Fauna

The variety of plant life is also habitat for a great variety of birds and mammals. There are some 326 species of birds in Kinabalu Park, including the spectacular rhinoceros hornbill, mountain serpent-eagle, Dulit frogmouth, eyebrowed jungle flycatcher, and bare-headed laughingthrush. Twenty-four birds are mainly found on the mountain. The mountain is home to some 100 mammalian species mostly living high in the trees, including one of the great apes, the Bornean orangutan (though sightings of these are uncommon; estimates of its numbers in the park range from 25 to 120). Other mammals include three kinds of deer, the Malayan weasel (''Mustela nudipes''), Oriental small-clawed otter (''Aonyx cinerea''), and leopard cat (''Prionailurus bengalensis''). Endemic mammals include the black shrew (''Suncus ater''). However, others of its endemics, such as the Bornean ferret-badger (''Melogale everetti'') and '' Rattus baluensis'', have also recently been recorded in the nearby Mount Tambuyukon.

Endemic annelids number less than a dozen known species but include the Kinabalu giant red leech that preys on various earthworms, including the Kinabalu giant earthworm. In the summit zone, at least 26 endemic species of land snail exist. In 2012, a major scientific expedition, jointly organised by the Malaysian Sabah Parks and the Dutch Naturalis Biodiversity Center, performed DNA analysis of several dozen endemic flora, fauna, and fungi, to understand the evolutionary origin of the unique biodiversity of Kinabalu.

Threats and preservation

The steep mountainsides with poor soil are not suitable for farming or for the timber industry so the habitats and animal life of Kinabalu remain largely intact, with about a third of the original habitat now degraded. Kinabalu Park was established in 1964 and the nearby mountains were protected as the Crocker Range National Park in 1984. However even national park status does not guarantee full protection, as logging permits were granted on Trus Madi in 1984.

History

British colonial administrator Hugh Low made the first recorded ascent of Mount Kinabalu's summit plateau in March 1851 with local Dusun guide Lemaing of Kampung Kiau. Low did not scale the mountain's highest peak, however, considering it "inaccessible to any but winged animals". In April and July 1858, Low was accompanied on two further ascents by Spenser St. John, the British Consul in Brunei. The highest point of Mount Kinabalu was finally reached in 1888 by zoologist John Whitehead. British botanist Lilian Gibbs became the first woman and the first botanist to summit Mount Kinabalu in February 1910.

Botanist E. J. H. Corner led two important expeditions of the Royal Society of Great Britain to the mountain in 1961 and 1964. Kinabalu National Park was established in 1964. The park was designated a natural World Heritage Site in 2000.

2015 earthquake

On 5 June 2015 at 07:15 MST, the area around Mount Kinabalu was damaged by an earthquake. Eighteen people, including hikers and mountain guides, were killed by the earthquake and a massive landslide that followed it. Ranau and many parts of Sabah West Coast were affected and Donkey Ear's Peak was heavily damaged.

Six days before the earthquake, a group of ten western tourists (comprising six men and four women from Canada, Germany, Netherlands and the United Kingdom) had stripped naked and urinated while on the mountain's summit. Local people were deeply offended, and many who considered Kinabalu to be a sacred place believed that the act had angered the mountain spirits. Four of the group were convicted on charges of public indecency, and sentenced to three days in jail and a fine of 5,000 ringgit.

Following the incident, some of the tourists and their families expressed their apologies to all involved parties, and the government of the United Kingdom began to review its travel advice for Malaysia.

Climbing the mountain

Climbers must be accompanied by accredited guides at all times due to national park regulations. There are two main starting points for the climb: the Timpohon Gate (located from Kinabalu Park Headquarters, at an altitude of ), and the Mesilau Nature Resort. The latter starting point is slightly higher in elevation, but crosses a ridge, adding about two kilometres to the ascent and making the total elevation gain slightly higher. The Mesilau Trail is no longer accessible due to the earthquake in 2015. The two trails meet about before Laban Rata.

Sabah Parks grants a summit-climbing permit only to climbers who stay at mountain huts. Due to the limited number of beds at the mountain huts, only 130 people are allowed to climb Mount Kinabalu per day.

Accommodation is available inside the park or outside near the headquarters. Sabah Parks has privatised Mount Kinabalu activities to an organisation called Sutera Sanctuary Lodges. The mountain may be climbed on a single day trip, or hikers may (usually) stay one night at Laban Rata Resthouse at to complete the climb in 2 days, finishing the ascent and descending on the second day. The majority of climbers begin the ascent on day one of a two-day hike from Timpohon gate at , reaching this location either by minibus or by walking, and then walk to Laban Rata. Most people accomplish this part of the climb in 3 to 6 hours. Since there are no roads, the supplies for the Laban Rata Resthouse are carried by porters, who sometimes bring more than of supplies on their backs. Hot food and beverages are available at Laban Rata. Most rooms have no hot water in the bathrooms and whilst the dining area is heated, most rooms are not. The last , from the Laban Rata Resthouse at to Low's Peak (summit) at , takes between 2 and 4 hours. The last part of the climb is on bare granite rock.

Given the high altitude, some people may suffer from altitude sickness although staying overnight at the lodges before the climb and climbing at a lower rate of ascent may reduce the likelihood of this happening.

Low's Gully

Low's Gully (named after Hugh Low who first looked down into it in 1851) is a deep gorge carved out by glaciation on the north side of Mount Kinabalu, which is exceptionally inhospitable due to its depth and high rainfall. In March 1994 two British Army officers were severely criticised after leading a party of 7 British and 3 Hong Kong soldiers in an attempt to abseil and climb down into the gully that required extensive rescue efforts from both the RAF and the Malaysian army. The party were not equipped with radios and the 2 officers and 3 Hong Kong soldiers were trapped for 16 days and did not eat for five days before being rescued when stretchers were lowered by helicopter. The breakaway party of five completed the first descent of the gully in three days. A book about the 31-day fight for survival entitled ''Descent into Chaos'' was published in 1996 and a film drama '' The Place of the Dead'' was released in 1997. The first successful complete descent of Low's Gully was achieved by a 27 strong joint Malaysian-British team led by mountaineer and former British Army officer Pat Gunson in 1998.

Meaning of name

There are several explanations for the mountain's name.

The most plausible origin of the word "Kinabalu" is the Dusun phrase 'Aki Nabalu,' which means, "the revered place of the dead." An alternative explanation is that "Kinabalu" is a combination of two Dusun words, "ki" (have/has) and "nabalu" (mountain) which form "ki-nabalu" or "having mountain". It is a common practice among the Dusun people to name places based on their distinctive features or characteristics. One example is the place called "kiwaig", meaning "having water.

A popular story told to Western and Chinese tourists states that the name "Kinabalu" actually means "Cina Balu" (meaning "A Chinese Widow" in Malay). However, this folk story is debated. Due to linguistic influence among the Kadazan-Dusun of Sabah, some claim the pronunciation of "Cina" (chee-na) was changed to "Kina" (kee-na). An earlier book by Spenser St. John published in 1863 says that "Kina Balu" means "Chinese widow." However, this explanation is unlikely, as the Dusun people, who lived in the area for approximately 6,000 years, were not familiar with the Malay term of "Cina" at the time.

See also

* Borneo lowland rain forest – ''ecoregion''
* Borneo montane rain forests – ''ecoregion''
* Kinabalu Park
* Mount Kinabalu International Climbathon

References

Further reading

* Thomas Fuller (9 April 1999)
Into the Mists of Borneo's Kinabalu
. ''The New York Times''.
* Hugh; Midori Paxton (7 March 2001)
Climb rain forests to the clouds
. '' The Japan Times''.
* Jim Solicki (23 June 2001)
They came, they climbed: Mount Kinabalu conquered
. ''The Globe and Mail''.
* Jocasta Webb (1 September 2001)
The truth about Mount Kinabalu
. ''The Guardian''
* Flip Byrnes (18 August 2010)
Least-known, most exhilarating hikes
. '' Stuff.co.nz''
* Niall McIlroy (9 July 2011)
Man versus mountain
. ''The West Australian''.
* Gabby Salazar (2 June 2014)
Sunrise Hiking on Mount Kinabalu
. ''National Geographic''
* Sasha Gonzales (14 April 2015)
'If hell were a mountain, it would look like Mount Kinabalu': a Hong Kong hiker's Borneo blues
. ''South China Morning Post''
* Amy Willis (11 June 2015)
What are the rules on climbing Mount Kinabalu and why is it so sacred?
. '' Metro''.

External links

*

Sabah Parks website

List of climbers who have hiked Mount Kinabalu

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Mount Kinabalu
Mount Kinabalu
Ecoregions of Malesia
Four-thousanders of Asia
Highest points of countries
Mount Kinabalu
Mount Kinabalu
Mount Kinabalu
Important Bird Areas of Sabah
Sacred mountains
First 100 IUGS Geological Heritage Sites