Molly Parnis
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Mollie Parnis (born Sarah Rosen Parnis; March 18, 1899 – July 18, 1992), later Livingston, was an American fashion designer. She belongs to the first generation of American designers to be known to the public by name rather than by affiliation to a department store and is best known for designing clothing worn by many First Ladies, as well as the uniform of the
Cadet Nurse Corps The United States (U.S.) Cadet Nurse Corps (CNC) for women was authorized by the U.S. Congress on 15 June 1943 and signed into law by president Franklin D. Roosevelt on 1 July. The purpose of the law was to alleviate the nursing shortage that ...
in World War II. She grew up on the Upper West Side of Manhattan and attended the Wadleigh High School and Julia Richman. At the young age of 8, she tutored foreigners in English for under a dollar an hour. She lived on
Park Avenue Park Avenue is a boulevard in New York City that carries north and southbound traffic in the borough (New York City), boroughs of Manhattan and the Bronx. For most of the road's length in Manhattan, it runs parallel to Madison Avenue to the wes ...
, and had a weekend home in
Katonah, New York Katonah is a hamlet and census-designated place (CDP) within the town of Bedford, Westchester County, in the U.S. state of New York. The Katonah CDP had a population of 1,603 at the 2020 census. History Katonah is named for Chief Katonah, ...
.


Career

Parnis was born in New York City to Austrian Jewish parents Abraham Parnis and Sarah Rosenstock. At age 10, she and her younger sister Bessie were temporarily sent to live in an orphanage, likely after her father's death. Mollie Parnis had relatively informal training as a fashion designer, especially considering the level of commercial success she achieved. During a short stint studying law at
Hunter College Hunter College is a public university in New York City, United States. It is one of the constituent colleges of the City University of New York and offers studies in more than one hundred undergraduate and postgraduate fields across five schools ...
, Parnis worked in sales for a blouse manufacturer. Because of her keen eye for design and her intuition for amending designs to be more appealing to consumers, she was quickly promoted. In 1933, Parnis and her husband, Leon Livingston, started a company called Parnis Livingston Inc. on Seventh Avenue in the Garment District that sold women's suits and blouses. This business drew from Parnis' design expertise and her husband's experience with fabrics and textiles. In the 1940s she began designing under her name only. Parnis achieved popularity through her conservative, feminine, flattering designs, which were available in department stores across the United States. In 1966 her business grossed $3 million, demonstrating her commercial success. Her designs were regularly featured in fashion magazines like Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, and Vanity Fair, and several articles in LIFE described her success, proclaiming that "When Mollie Parnis Thinks a Design Will Sell, It Goes." Contributing to the increasing recognition of American fashion designers, Parnis often worked with noted publicist
Eleanor Lambert Eleanor Lambert (August 10, 1903 – October 7, 2003) was an American fashion publicist. She was instrumental in increasing the international prominence of the American fashion industry and in the emergence of New York City as a major fashion c ...
in the
Council of Fashion Designers of America The Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. (CFDA), founded in 1962 by publicist Eleanor Lambert, and headquartered in Manhattan, is a not-for-profit trade association comprising a membership of over 450 American fashion and accessor ...
and by being included in the International Best-Dressed List in 1967.


Patronage of First Ladies

Parnis is most remembered for her close relationships and frequent patronage from American First Ladies.
Mamie Eisenhower Mary Geneva "Mamie" Eisenhower (; November 14, 1896 – November 1, 1979) was First Lady of the United States from 1953 to 1961 as the wife of President Dwight D. Eisenhower. Born in Boone, Iowa, she was raised in a wealthy household in Colo ...
frequently wore dresses and suits by Parnis, including a purple gabardine suit for
President Eisenhower Dwight David "Ike" Eisenhower (born David Dwight Eisenhower; October 14, 1890 – March 28, 1969) was the 34th president of the United States, serving from 1953 to 1961. During World War II, he was Supreme Commander of the Allied Expeditionary ...
's 1957 inauguration and a black and white silk dress when she met
Queen Elizabeth Queen Elizabeth, Queen Elisabeth or Elizabeth the Queen may refer to: Queens regnant * Elizabeth I (1533–1603; ), Queen of England and Ireland * Elizabeth II (1926–2022; ), Queen of the United Kingdom and other Commonwealth realms * Queen B ...
at the St. Lawrence Seaway in 1959. She also wore a 'silky purple Molly Parnis dress
ith The Ith () is a ridge in Germany's Central Uplands which is up to 439 m high. It lies about 40 km southwest of Hanover and, at 22 kilometers, is the longest line of crags in North Germany. Geography Location The Ith is i ...
a Peter Pan collar' to her sixtieth birthday party in 1956. The most publicized event in which Eisenhower wore a Parnis dress was in 1955, when a woman in a receiving line wore the same blue-green shirtwaist dress as the First Lady, an event that could have caused much embarrassment. Parnis is quoted saying, "I do not sell directly to any wearer, nor do I usually make one of a kind; that is what makes this country a great democracy. But I do feel that the First Lady should have something special." Eisenhower and Parnis's dress, Model 448, were featured in a multi-page spread in
LIFE Life, also known as biota, refers to matter that has biological processes, such as Cell signaling, signaling and self-sustaining processes. It is defined descriptively by the capacity for homeostasis, Structure#Biological, organisation, met ...
titled "Blue-Green on the National Scene." The feature included images of women across the country wearing the dress.
Lady Bird Johnson Claudia Alta "Lady Bird" Johnson (; December 22, 1912 – July 11, 2007) was First Lady of the United States from 1963 to 1969 as the wife of President Lyndon B. Johnson. She had previously been Second Lady of the United States from 1961 to 196 ...
also frequently wore Parnis' designs because she could wear them in her busy life and "still look like a lady." The two developed a close relationship, and Parnis was often invited to the White House for state dinners and the Johnson's ranch in Texas. Parnis' designs were also included in the 1968 White House Fashion Show, which Lady Bird and her staff organized and is the only fashion show to ever be held in the White House. Parnis had photographs of the First Ladies wearing her designs with their husbands. She even had a photograph signed by
Lyndon B. Johnson Lyndon Baines Johnson (; August 27, 1908January 22, 1973), also known as LBJ, was the 36th president of the United States, serving from 1963 to 1969. He became president after the assassination of John F. Kennedy, under whom he had served a ...
, wearing a shirt she had designed for him.


Museum Collections

Museum collections that include Mollie Parnis' garments are: * Texas Fashion Collection, Denton, TX * Chicago History Museum, Chicago, IL *
LBJ Presidential Library The Lyndon Baines Johnson Library and Museum, also known as the LBJ Presidential Library, is the Presidential library system, presidential library and museum of Lyndon B. Johnson, Lyndon Baines Johnson, the 36th president of the United States ...
, Austin, TX *
Eisenhower Presidential Library The Dwight D. Eisenhower Presidential Library, Museum and Boyhood Home is the presidential library and museum of Dwight David Eisenhower, the 34th president of the United States (1953–1961), located in his hometown of Abilene, Kansas. The ...
, Abilene, KS *
Metropolitan Museum of Art The Metropolitan Museum of Art, colloquially referred to as the Met, is an Encyclopedic museum, encyclopedic art museum in New York City. By floor area, it is the List of largest museums, third-largest museum in the world and the List of larg ...
,
Costume Institute The Anna Wintour Costume Center is a wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art The Met Fifth Avenue, main building in Manhattan that houses the collection of the Costume Institute, a curatorial department of the museum focused on fashion and costume ...
, New York City, NY *
Indianapolis Museum of Art The Indianapolis Museum of Art (IMA) is an encyclopedic art museum located at Newfields, a campus that also houses Lilly House, The Virginia B. Fairbanks Art & Nature Park, the Garden at Newfields and more. It is located at the corner of No ...
, Indianapolis, IN *
Museum of Texas Tech University The Museum of Texas Tech University is part of Texas Tech University in Lubbock, Texas. It is made up of the main museum building, the Moody Planetarium, the Natural Science Research Laboratory, the research and educational elements of the Lubbo ...
, Lubbock, TX


References


External links

* * * * * * {{DEFAULTSORT:Parnis, Mollie 1899 births 1992 deaths American people of Austrian-Jewish descent Jewish fashion designers American fashion designers American women fashion designers American people of Austrian descent Fashion designers from New York City 20th-century American women