Michel Rolland (born December 24, 1947) is a
Bordeaux
Bordeaux ( ; ; Gascon language, Gascon ; ) is a city on the river Garonne in the Gironde Departments of France, department, southwestern France. A port city, it is the capital of the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, as well as the Prefectures in F ...
-based
oenologist, with hundreds of clients across 13 countries and influencing wine style around the world. "It is his consultancies outside France that have set him apart from all but a handful of his countrymen." It is frequently addressed that his signature style, which he helps wineries achieve, is fruit-heavy and oak-influenced, a preference shared by influential critic
Robert Parker.
Rolland owns several properties in Bordeaux, including
Château Bertineau Saint-Vincent in Lalande de Pomerol,
Château Rolland-Maillet in
Saint-Émilion
Saint-Émilion (; Gascon dialect, Gascon: ''Sent Milion'') is a Communes of France, commune in the Gironde department in Nouvelle-Aquitaine in Southwestern France.
In the heart of the country of Libournais (the area around Libourne), in a regio ...
,
Château Fontenil in
Fronsac, and
Château La Grande Clotte in
Lussac-Saint-Émilion as well as joint venture partnerships with
Bonne Nouvelle in
South Africa
South Africa, officially the Republic of South Africa (RSA), is the Southern Africa, southernmost country in Africa. Its Provinces of South Africa, nine provinces are bounded to the south by of coastline that stretches along the Atlantic O ...
,
Val de Flores in
Argentina
Argentina, officially the Argentine Republic, is a country in the southern half of South America. It covers an area of , making it the List of South American countries by area, second-largest country in South America after Brazil, the fourt ...
,
Rolland Galarreta in
Spain
Spain, or the Kingdom of Spain, is a country in Southern Europe, Southern and Western Europe with territories in North Africa. Featuring the Punta de Tarifa, southernmost point of continental Europe, it is the largest country in Southern Eur ...
and
Yacochuya (
Salta
Salta () is the capital and largest city in the Provinces of Argentina, Argentine province of Salta Province, the same name. With a population of 618,375 according to the 2010 census, it is also the List of cities in Argentina, 7th most-populous ...
) and
Clos de los Siete in
Argentina
Argentina, officially the Argentine Republic, is a country in the southern half of South America. It covers an area of , making it the List of South American countries by area, second-largest country in South America after Brazil, the fourt ...
.
Early life
Born into a wine making family in
Libourne
Libourne (; ) is a commune in the Gironde department in Nouvelle-Aquitaine in southwestern France. It is a sub-prefecture of the department.
It is the wine-making capital of northern Gironde and lies near Saint-Émilion and Pomerol.
Geog ...
, Rolland grew up on the family's estate Château Le Bon Pasteur in
Pomerol.
After high school, Rolland enrolled at Tour Blanche Viticultural and Oenology school in Bordeaux with his father's encouragement. Excelling in his studies, he was one of five student chosen by director Jean-Pierre Navarre to evaluate the program's quality against that of the prestigious
Bordeaux Oenology Institute. Rolland later enrolled in the institute, where he met his wife and fellow oenologist, Dany Rolland, and graduated as part of the class of 1972.
At the institute, Michel Rolland studied under the tutelage of renowned oenologists Pierre Sudraud, Pascal Ribéreau-Gayon, Jean Ribéreau-Gayon, and
Émile Peynaud. Rolland has said these men were a great influence upon him and considers them the "Fathers of Modern Oenology."
In 1973, Rolland and his wife bought into an oenology lab on the Right Bank of Bordeaux in the town of Libourne. They took over full control of the lab in 1976 and expanded it to include tasting rooms. By 2006 the Rolland's lab employed 8 full-time technicians, analyzing samples from nearly 800 wine estates in France each year.
[Suckling, James, ''Wine Spectator'' "Top Gun", June 30, 2006] Rolland's two daughters, Stéphanie & Marie, also work at the lab.
Michel Rolland's first clients included the Bordeaux Châteaux
Troplong Mondot,
Angélus, and
Beau-Séjour Bécot. An early setback was the loss of two
Saint-Émilion first growths,
Château Canon and
Château La Gaffelière, due to conflict in style with the owners and Rolland. According to Rolland, the loss "calmed him down" and brought him out of an awkward stage in his early career. Twenty years later, the two chateaux returned to be part of the more than 100 wineries who employ Michel Rolland as their consultant.
In his book ''Noble Rot: A Bordeaux Wine Revolution'',
William Echikson writes that before Michel Rolland became consultant to
Château Lascombes, it "produced about 500,000 bottles of mediocre wine, about half of which was sold not as Lascombes itself, but as the inferior Chevalier de Lascombes." Today, Echikson contends, that even the Chevalier (the
second wine
Second wine or second label (French: ''Second vin'') is a term commonly associated with Bordeaux wine to refer to a second label wine made from '' cuvee'' not selected for use in the ''Grand vin'' or first label. In some cases a third wine or e ...
of the estate) is better than the old full-fledged Lascombes.
Media exposure
Rolland features prominently in the critical 2004 documentary ''
Mondovino'' by
Jonathan Nossiter as an agent of
wine globalization. In ''Mondovino'', Rolland is seen on several occasions advising his clients to
microoxygenate their wines, including a scene at
Château Le Gay in Bordeaux. Since the film, Rolland has said that he is "not a fan of microoxygenation. The film suggests I am. Some of my clients inquire about it. It can help in special conditions — if the tannins are fierce or hard, micro-oxygenation can make them softer and rounder. In certain countries with certain terroir, like Chile or Argentina, I may use it."
James Suckling, formerly of ''
Wine Spectator'', notes in an article about Rolland that "He is not a proponent of micro-oxidation in wine-making as some suggest, and never has been".
[
Michel Rolland is also a wine making consultant for the Amphorae Winery in Israel (marketed as Makura in the United States) and has started signing his name to their premium Makura series. He visits Amphorae and their vineyards once a year and has his assistants throughout the year help implement his practices adopted by Amphorae's wine making team at the winery and in their vineyards.
Rolland is among the wine personalities satirised next to Robert Parker in the 2010 ''bande dessinée'' comic book, '' Robert Parker: Les Sept Pêchés capiteux''.][Kakaviatos, Panos, ''Decanter.com'' (October 12, 2010)]
Robert Parker 'honoured' by merciless cartoon satire
/ref>
Influence
From his consulting work and media presence, Michel Rolland has influenced many aspects of both the French and global wine industry. Among the prominent wine personalities that have been influenced by Rolland is the Rhone wine producer Jean-Luc Colombo.[E. Arnold ']
Winemaker Talk: Jean-Luc Colombo
'' ''Wine Spectator'' April 26, 2007
Napa Valley vineyards under Rolland influence
Rolland's first projects outside of Bordeaux were in California. He now consults for many highly regarded Napa Valley wineries. These include:
* St. Supery, Rutherford
* Dalla Valle Vineyards, Oakville
* Jericho Canyon Vineyard, Calistoga
* Harlan Estate, Oakville
* Staglin Family Vineyard, Rutherford
* Bryant Estate, Pritchard Hill
Bordeaux vineyards under Rolland influence
Rolland holds decisive roles (such as owner, cellar master, oenologist, consultant) in a number of chateaux in Bordeaux. These include:
* Angélus, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Armens, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Ausone, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Beauregard, Pomerol
* Bellefont-Belcier, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Bellevue Mondotte, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Bibian, Haut-Médoc
* Blason de l'Evangile, Pomerol
* le Bon Pasteur, Pomerol
* Bonalgue, Pomerol
* Branas Grand Poujeaux, Moulis
* Brillette, Moulis
* de Camensac, Haut-Médoc
* Cap de Faugères, Côtes de Castillon
* Cap Léon Veyrin, Listrac-Médoc
* Certan de May de Certan, Pomerol
* Chapelle d'Ausone, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Clarke, Listrac-Médoc
* la Clémence, Pomerol
* Clément-Pichon, Haut-Médoc
* Clinet, Pomerol
* Clos des Jacobins, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Clos du Clocher, Pomerol
* Clos l'Eglise, Pomerol
* Clos les Lunelles, Côtes de Castillon
* Clos Saint-Martin, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* la Commanderie de Mazeyres, Pomerol
* Corbin, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Côte de Baleau, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* la Couspaude, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* le Crock, St-Estèphe
* Croix de Labrie, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Destieux, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Destieux, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* la Dominique, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* l'Evangile, Pomerol
* Faugères, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Faugères Cuvée Péby, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* la Fleur de Boüard, Lalande de Pomerol
* la Fleur de Gay, Pomerol
* Fombrauge, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Fontenil, Fronsac
* Franc-Mayne, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* la Garde, Pessac-Léognan
* le Gay, Pomerol
* Giscours, Margaux
* Grand Mayne, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Grand Ormeau, Lalande de Pomerol
* Grand-Pontet, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* les Grandes Murailles, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* les Grands Chênes, Médoc
* la Gravière, Lalande de Pomerol
* Jean de Gué, Lalande de Pomerol
* Julien, Haut-Médoc
* Kirwan, Margaux
* Larmande, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Larrivet-Haut-Brion, Pessac-Léognan
* Lascombes, Margaux
* Latour-Martillac, Pessac-Léognan
* Léoville-Poyferré, St-Julien
* Loudenne, Médoc
* Magrez-Fombrauge, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Malartic-Lagravière, Pessac-Léognan
* Malescot-Saint-Exupéry, Margaux
* Monbousquet, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan
* Pavie, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Péby Faugères, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Petit Village, Pomerol
* Peyfaures, Bordeaux Superior
* Phélan-Ségur, St-Estèphe
* le Plus de la Fleur de Boüard, Lalande de Pomerol
* Pontet-Canet, Pauillac
* Ripeau, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Rochebelle, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* Rouget, Pomerol
* la Sérénité, Pessac-Léognan
* Smith Haut Lafitte, Pessac-Léognan
* la Tour-Carnet, Haut-Médoc
* Troplong-Mondot, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* la Tulipe de la Garde, Libourne
* de Valandraud, St-Emilion Grand Cru
* la Violette, Pomerol
* Virginie de Valandraud, St-Emilion Grand Cru
See also
* Parkerization of wine
Sources
*Echikson, William. ''Noble Rot: A Bordeaux Wine Revolution''. NY: W.W.Norton, 2004.
*Robinson, Jancis (Editor) ''The Oxford Companion to Wine''. Oxford, England: Oxford University Press, second edition, 1999
;Footnotes
{{DEFAULTSORT:Rolland, Michel
1947 births
Living people
People from Libourne
French winemakers
Oenologists