Merle Nethercutt Norman (January 15, 1887 – January 1, 1972) was an American
cosmetics
Cosmetics are constituted mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either natural sources, or synthetically created ones. Cosmetics have various purposes. Those designed for personal care and skin care can be used to cleanse or protect ...
magnate, chemist, and philanthropist. She was the founder of
Merle Norman Cosmetics
Merle Norman Cosmetics Inc. or simply known as Merle Norman, is an American multinational cosmetics company that manufactures skin care and makeup products founded in 1931 by Merle Norman. The company is known for pioneering the "try before you ...
and was one of the early business pioneers of
franchising
Franchising is based on a marketing concept which can be adopted by an organization as a strategy for business expansion. Where implemented, a franchisor licenses some or all of its know-how, procedures, intellectual property, use of its busine ...
.
Early life and education
Merle Mozelle Nethercutt was born in
Logansport, Indiana
Logansport is a city in and the county seat of Cass County, Indiana, United States. The population was 18,366 at the 2020 census. Logansport is located in northern Indiana at the junction of the Wabash and Eel rivers, northwest of Kokomo.
Hi ...
, the first born to Melvin and Emma Nethercutt. Her family later moved to
South Bend, Indiana
South Bend is a city in and the county seat of St. Joseph County, Indiana, St. Joseph County, Indiana, on the St. Joseph River (Lake Michigan), St. Joseph River near its southernmost bend, from which it derives its name. As of the 2020 United S ...
where she graduated high school. In high school she was a public speaker and musician.
She attended a
teachers' college
A normal school or normal college is an institution created to train teachers by educating them in the norms of pedagogy and curriculum. In the 19th century in the United States, instruction in normal schools was at the high school level, turni ...
and taught in the South Bend school system for several years. Nethercutt later enrolled in the
University of Chicago
The University of Chicago (UChicago, Chicago, U of C, or UChi) is a private research university in Chicago, Illinois. Its main campus is located in Chicago's Hyde Park neighborhood. The University of Chicago is consistently ranked among the b ...
to study chemistry.
In 1912 she met Andrew Norman Gullickstead who was an advertiser and would change her name to Merle Norman. They both would move to
Santa Monica, California
Santa Monica (; Spanish language, Spanish: ''Santa Mónica'') is a city in Los Angeles County, California, Los Angeles County, situated along Santa Monica Bay on California's South Coast (California), South Coast. Santa Monica's 2020 United Sta ...
in 1920. Her nephew,
J.B. Nethercutt
Jack Boison Nethercutt (October 11, 1913 – December 6, 2004) was an American entrepreneur and car collector. He co-founded Merle Norman Cosmetics in 1931 with his aunt Merle Norman and started as a delivery peddler for her early products, later ...
would also leave Indiana and move in with her, eventually also studying chemistry at
Caltech
The California Institute of Technology (branded as Caltech or CIT)The university itself only spells its short form as "Caltech"; the institution considers other spellings such a"Cal Tech" and "CalTech" incorrect. The institute is also occasional ...
.
Cosmetic career
During the late 1920s, Merle Norman with her knowledge of chemistry from college, would start creating homemade
cosmetics
Cosmetics are constituted mixtures of chemical compounds derived from either natural sources, or synthetically created ones. Cosmetics have various purposes. Those designed for personal care and skin care can be used to cleanse or protect ...
in a makeshift laboratory in her
Santa Monica
Santa Monica (; Spanish: ''Santa Mónica'') is a city in Los Angeles County, situated along Santa Monica Bay on California's South Coast. Santa Monica's 2020 U.S. Census population was 93,076. Santa Monica is a popular resort town, owing to ...
estate's kitchen.
Norman would give out free samples to her neighbors. She would then sell her products to local customers, with her nephew J.B. working as a
peddler
A peddler, in British English pedlar, also known as a chapman, packman, cheapjack, hawker, higler, huckster, (coster)monger, colporteur or solicitor, is a door-to-door and/or travelling vendor of goods.
In England, the term was mostly used fo ...
to deliver the products using grocery bags.
She would create her "3 Steps to Beauty" line, which featured PowderBase, Cleansing Cream, and Miracol.
In 1931 during the depth of the
Great Depression
The Great Depression (19291939) was an economic shock that impacted most countries across the world. It was a period of economic depression that became evident after a major fall in stock prices in the United States. The economic contagio ...
, Merle Norrman spent $150 to open a small local cosmetics studio named Merle Norman Cosmetics in downtown
Santa Monica
Santa Monica (; Spanish: ''Santa Mónica'') is a city in Los Angeles County, situated along Santa Monica Bay on California's South Coast. Santa Monica's 2020 U.S. Census population was 93,076. Santa Monica is a popular resort town, owing to ...
to sell their products more abroad. Norman would begin the ''"try before you buy"'' philosophy, letting her customers try on products for free.
In the next couple of years women who were interested in the Merle Norman Cosmetics brand wanted to open their own studios throughout California, starting an early chain of franchises dubbed "studios." By 1934, the company had rapidly expanded to 94 independently owned franchises across the contiguous United States, with them predominantly being owned by women.
During
World War II
World War II or the Second World War, often abbreviated as WWII or WW2, was a world war that lasted from 1939 to 1945. It involved the vast majority of the world's countries—including all of the great powers—forming two opposin ...
she temporarily stopped cosmetic production and the company produced gun oil and camouflage sticks for the
U.S. Military
The United States Armed Forces are the military forces of the United States. The armed forces consists of six service branches: the Army, Marine Corps, Navy, Air Force, Space Force, and Coast Guard. The president of the United States is the ...
.
Over the next 30 years, Merle Norman Cosmetics expanded as a multi-million dollar cosmetic enterprise encompassing thousands of franchise studios throughout North America. In 1963, Norman would step down as chairman and hand down the company to her nephew,
J.B. Nethercutt
Jack Boison Nethercutt (October 11, 1913 – December 6, 2004) was an American entrepreneur and car collector. He co-founded Merle Norman Cosmetics in 1931 with his aunt Merle Norman and started as a delivery peddler for her early products, later ...
.
Legacy
Norman has been credited of being ahead of her time, laying out the foundations for
franchising
Franchising is based on a marketing concept which can be adopted by an organization as a strategy for business expansion. Where implemented, a franchisor licenses some or all of its know-how, procedures, intellectual property, use of its busine ...
before they were properly defined in modern business.
Norman would be described as a pioneer entrepreneur and an inspiration for women of the time, with the large majority of Merle Norman Cosmetics franchise studios being owned independently by women nationwide by 1934.
Her company was one of the few to gain an increasing success throughout the
Great Depression
The Great Depression (19291939) was an economic shock that impacted most countries across the world. It was a period of economic depression that became evident after a major fall in stock prices in the United States. The economic contagio ...
.
Merle Norman Stadium
Merle Norman Stadium is a beach volleyball facility located in Los Angeles, California, United States. The on-campus USC facility, built in 2013, serves as the home of the USC Trojans women's beach volleyball team. The facility has three sand co ...
at the
University of Southern California and the $36 million six-story Merle Norman Pavilion at the
UCLA Medical Center, Santa Monica were both named after her.
Connie O'Kelley's book ''Merle Nethercutt Norman: An American Story'' is a biography of Norman's life.
Personal life
Norman and her husband Andrew Gullickstead had one child who died in miscarriage.
Her nephew,
J.B. would continue the
family company
A family business is a commercial organization in which decision-making is influenced by multiple generations of a family, related by blood or marriage or adoption, who has both the ability to influence the vision of the business and the willin ...
line through his family's descendants, which included his son and Norman's grand-nephew,
Jack Nethercutt II
Jack Boison Nethercutt II (born December 22, 1936) is an American businessman and former professional racing driver. He notably used #102 and competed in the World Sportscar Championship and USAC Road Racing Championship.
He is the second owner ...
.
Merle Norman was friends with legendary
MLB player
Babe Ruth and sponsored his
little League through her company over 15 years.
Estates

In 1936 Norman commissioned a custom
Mediterranean-style mansion to be built in
Santa Monica
Santa Monica (; Spanish: ''Santa Mónica'') is a city in Los Angeles County, situated along Santa Monica Bay on California's South Coast. Santa Monica's 2020 U.S. Census population was 93,076. Santa Monica is a popular resort town, owing to ...
by architect Ellis Martin. It would later be known as the
Merle Norman House The Merle Norman House is an historic ocean view estate built for cosmetics magnate Merle Norman located at 2523 Third Street in Santa Monica, California. It was constructed during the Great Depression in 1935 with a mix of Mediterranean Revival ...
and in 1996 was dedicated as a historic landmark in the City of Santa Monica.
In the 1950s Norman purchased several acres of land in
Tucson, Arizona and commissioned a large ranch house compound named ''El Rancho Merlita,'' which became a vacation retreat for her friends and colleagues. The ranch house became a
bed and breakfast in 2004.
Charities
Merle Norman through herself and her company donated several million to dozens of charities, churches, and veteran programs in the United States and Canada.
Death
Merle Norman died on January 1, 1972, at the age of 85 in
Sydney
Sydney ( ) is the capital city of the state of New South Wales, and the most populous city in both Australia and Oceania. Located on Australia's east coast, the metropolis surrounds Sydney Harbour and extends about towards the Blue Mountain ...
, Australia.
References
{{DEFAULTSORT:Norman, Merle
1887 births
1972 deaths
American company founders
American women company founders
American cosmetics businesspeople
American women chief executives
University of Chicago alumni
People from Santa Monica, California
Nethercutt-Richards family