Martand Singh (textile Conservator)
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Martand "Mapu" Singh (10 February 194725 April 2017) was an Indian
textile conservator A textile conservator is a conservator-restorer charged with the care, treatment, research, and preservation of textiles. Issues addressed by a textile conservator are generally related to the field of textile preservation, and include damage caus ...
, curator, and
cultural historian Culture ( ) is a concept that encompasses the social behavior, institutions, and norms found in human societies, as well as the knowledge, beliefs, arts, laws, customs, capabilities, attitudes, and habits of the individuals in these gr ...
who championed the revival of traditional Indian textiles,
weaving Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal ...
and
dyeing Dyeing is the application of dyes or pigments on textile materials such as fibers, yarns, and fabrics with the goal of achieving color with desired color fastness. Dyeing is normally done in a special solution containing dyes and particular ...
traditions. He served as the director of
Calico Museum of Textiles The Calico Museum of Textiles is located in the city of Ahmedabad in the state of Gujarat in western India. The museum is managed by the Sarabhai Foundation. History The museum was founded in 1949 by the enterprising siblings Gautam Sarabhai a ...
in
Ahmedabad Ahmedabad ( ), also spelled Amdavad (), is the most populous city in the Indian state of Gujarat. It is the administrative headquarters of the Ahmedabad district and the seat of the Gujarat High Court. Ahmedabad's population of 5,570,585 ...
and was one of the founder members, and former head, of
Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage (INTACH) is a non-profit charitable organisation registered under the Societies Registration Act, 1860. In 2007, the United Nations awarded INTACH a special consultative status with the ...
(INTACH). He was a trustee of the
Mehrangarh Museum Mehrangarh is a historic fort located in Jodhpur, Rajasthan, India. It stands on a hilltop, rising about above the surrounding plains, and the complex spans 1,200 acres (486 hectares). It was initially built around 1459 by the Rajput ruler of ...
in Jodhpur. Singh has been described as India's "best-known textile revivalist". In a 1997 interview in ''
The New York Times ''The New York Times'' (''NYT'') is an American daily newspaper based in New York City. ''The New York Times'' covers domestic, national, and international news, and publishes opinion pieces, investigative reports, and reviews. As one of ...
'', Singh said about the Indian crafts community: "People assume that we will always have these craftspeople, but at the current rate of change, these skills may soon be a thing of the past."


Biography

Singh was born in
Kapurthala Kapurthala () is a city in Punjab state of India. It is the administrative headquarters of Kapurthala District. It was the capital of the Kapurthala State, a princely state in British India. The aesthetic mix of the city with its prominent b ...
, a former princely state in Punjab, to Sita Devi, Maharani and Karamjit Singh Maharaja of Kapurthala, . He attended
The Doon School The Doon School (informally Doon School or Doon) is a Selective school, selective all-boys Private school, private boarding school in Dehradun, Uttarakhand, India, which was established in 1935. It was envisioned by Satish Ranjan Das, a lawyer ...
in Dehradun, and then went to St. Stephen's College, Delhi. In 1985, he was the co-curator, along with
Diana Vreeland Diana Vreeland (September 29, 1903 – August 22, 1989) was an American fashion columnist and editor. She worked for the fashion magazine ''Harper's Bazaar'' and as editor-in-chief at '' Vogue'', later becoming a special consultant to the Costume ...
, of the celebrated exhibition ''Costumes of Royal India'', at the
Metropolitan Museum of Art The Metropolitan Museum of Art, colloquially referred to as the Met, is an Encyclopedic museum, encyclopedic art museum in New York City. By floor area, it is the List of largest museums, third-largest museum in the world and the List of larg ...
in New York. Along with
Pupul Jayakar Pupul Jayakar (née Mehta; 11 September 1915 – 29 March 1997) was an Indian cultural activist and writer, best known for her work on the revival of traditional and village arts, handlooms, and handicrafts in post-independence India. Acco ...
and
Rajeev Sethi Rajeev Sethi (born 24 May 1949) is a noted Indian designer, scenographer and art curator. In 1986, he was awarded the Padma Bhushan, India's third highest civilian award, given Government of India. Early life and background Sethi was born in De ...
, Singh documented the diversity of textiles and weaves across India, and all three were in the organising committee of the Festival of India, a state-sponsored six-month exhibition of Indian art and culture, held in London in 1982. In 2018, the Japanese designer
Issey Miyake was a Japanese fashion designer. He was known for his technology-driven clothing designs, exhibitions and fragrances, such as '' L'eau d'Issey'', which became his best-known product. Early life and education Miyake was born on 22 April 1938 i ...
held the exhibition, ''Khadi: Indian Craftsmanship, Homage to Martand Singh'', at his
Tribeca Tribeca ( ), originally written as TriBeCa, is a neighborhood in Lower Manhattan in New York City. Its name is a syllabic abbreviation of "Triangle Below Canal Street". The "triangle" (more accurately a quadrilateral) is bounded by Canal Str ...
store in New York, which came about as the textile director of Miyake Design Studio, Makiko Minagawa, had earlier worked with Singh and was greatly influenced by his efforts in textiles and design conservation. Before his death in 2017, Singh was working as the chief consultant for the exhibition ''Peacock in the Desert: The Royal Arts of Jodhpur'', which was displayed at
Museum of Fine Arts, Houston The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston (MFAH), is an art museum located in the Houston Museum District of Houston, Texas. The permanent collection of the museum spans more than 5,000 years of history with nearly 80,000 works from six continents. Follo ...
,
Seattle Art Museum The Seattle Art Museum (commonly known as SAM) is an art museum located in Seattle, Washington (state), Washington, United States. The museum operates three major facilities: its main museum in downtown Seattle; the Seattle Asian Art Museum in ...
and
Royal Ontario Museum The Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) is a museum of art, world culture and natural history in Toronto, Ontario, Canada. It is one of the largest museums in North America and the largest in Canada. It attracts more than one million visitors every year ...
; the shows, which opened in 2018 after his death, were dedicated to his memory.


Vishwakarma exhibitions

Between 1982 and 1992, Singh curated a series of seven exhibitions, titled "Vishwakarma" (Hindi for "all-creating", meaning the personification of the ultimate reality, and in the current context "master artisan"), which for the first time captured the diversity of Indian textile arts under one roof. The 1981 exhibition, which brought together textiles from every Indian state, travelled to London as part of the state-sponsored cultural programme ''Festivals of India''. The later exhibitions toured Russia, Japan, France, Italy, Sweden, China and the United States. The exhibitions, as a whole, systematically showcased India's textile heritage for the first time, and were instrumental in reviving interest in handmade textiles, weaving and dyeing traditions of the country.


Awards

Singh was awarded the
Padma Bhushan The Padma Bhushan (IAST: ''Padma Bhūṣaṇa'', lit. 'Lotus Decoration') is the third-highest civilian award in the Republic of India, preceded by the Bharat Ratna and the Padma Vibhushan and followed by the Padma Shri. Instituted on 2 Januar ...
by the Government of India, for his contributions in the field of Indian arts and culture.


Bibliography

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References

{{DEFAULTSORT:Singh, Martand 1947 births 2017 deaths Conservator-restorers The Doon School alumni St. Stephen's College, Delhi alumni Delhi University alumni Indian art curators Exhibition designers Indian textile designers Indian royalty Recipients of the Padma Bhushan in arts 21st-century Indian historians 20th-century Indian historians Cultural historians