Marsannay (wine)
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Marsannay wine is produced in the communes of
Marsannay-la-Côte Marsannay-la-Côte () is a commune in the Côte-d'Or department in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in eastern France. Geography Marsannay-la-Côte contains a strip of vineyards on the slope of the Côte d'Or. The vineyards are the most nor ...
, Couchey and
Chenôve Chenôve () is a commune in the Côte-d'Or department in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region of France. Until 1955, it was a small scale wine-growing village, when it was absorbed into the urban conglomeration of Dijon. It is now the most po ...
in the
Côte de Nuits The Côte de Nuits () is a French wine region located in the northern part of the Côte d'Or (escarpment), Côte d'Or, the limestone ridge that is at the heart of the Burgundy wine region. It extends from Dijon to just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges ...
subregion of
Burgundy Burgundy ( ; ; Burgundian: ''Bregogne'') is a historical territory and former administrative region and province of east-central France. The province was once home to the Dukes of Burgundy from the early 11th until the late 15th century. ...
. The ''
Appellation d'origine contrôlée In France, the ''appellation d'origine contrôlée'' (, ; abbr. AOC ) is a label that identifies an agricultural product whose stages of production and processing are carried out in a defined geographical area – the ''terroir'' – and using ...
'' (AOC) Marsannay may be used for
red Red is the color at the long wavelength end of the visible spectrum of light, next to orange and opposite violet. It has a dominant wavelength of approximately 625–750 nanometres. It is a primary color in the RGB color model and a seconda ...
and
rosé wine A rosé () is a type of wine that incorporates some of the color from the grape skins, but not enough to qualify it as a red wine. It may be the oldest known type of wine, as it is the most straightforward to make with the skin contact method ...
with
Pinot noir Pinot noir (), also known as Pinot nero, is a red-wine grape variety of the species ''Vitis vinifera''. The name also refers to wines created predominantly from Pinot noir grapes. The name is derived from the French language, French words fo ...
, as well as
white wine White wine is a wine that is Fermentation in winemaking, fermented without undergoing the process of Maceration (wine), maceration, which involves prolonged contact between the juice with the grape skins, seeds, and pulp. The wine color, colou ...
with
Chardonnay Chardonnay (, ; ) is a green-skinned grape variety used in the production of white wine. The variety originated in the Burgundy wine region of eastern France, but is now grown wherever wine is produced, from England to New Zealand. For new a ...
as the main grape variety. Red wine accounts for the largest part of the production, around two-thirds. Marsannay is the only village-level appellation which may produce rosé wines, under the designation Marsannay rosé.BIVB: Marsannay
, accessed on 17 November 2009
All other Burgundy rosés are restricted to the regional appellation Bourgogne. There are no Grand Cru or
Premier Cru Cru is a wine Glossary of wine terms, term used to indicate a high-quality vineyard or group of vineyards. It is a French language, French word which was originally used to refer to both a region and anything grown in it, but is now mostly used t ...
vineyards in Marsannay. The Marsannay AOC was created in 1987, and is the most recent addition to the Côte de Nuits.


History


Ancient times

The edict issued by the Roman emperor
Domitian Domitian ( ; ; 24 October 51 – 18 September 96) was Roman emperor from 81 to 96. The son of Vespasian and the younger brother of Titus, his two predecessors on the throne, he was the last member of the Flavian dynasty. Described as "a r ...
in 92AD prevented the planting of new vines outside Italy. He had the vines in Burgundy partly uprooted to avoid competition. The remaining vineyards were enough to meet the locals' needs. But
Probus Probus may refer to: People * Marcus Valerius Probus (c. 20/30–105 AD), Roman grammarian * Marcus Pomponius Maecius Probus, consul in 228 * Probus (emperor), Roman Emperor (276–282) * Probus of Byzantium (–306), Bishop of Byzantium from 293 t ...
revoked the edict in 280. In 312, a disciple of Eumène wrote the first description of the
Côte d'Or Côte Restaurants Group Limited, trading as Côte (formerly Côte Brasserie), stylised as CÔTE is a French-style British restaurant chain founded by Richard Caring, Andy Bassadone, Chris Benians and Nick Fiddler in Wimbledon, London Wimbl ...
vineyard.


Middle Ages and Renaissance

From the early 6th century, the introduction of Christianity had encouraged vineyard expansion with large areas attached to the
abbeys An abbey is a type of monastery used by members of a religious order under the governance of an abbot or abbess. Abbeys provide a complex of buildings and land for religious activities, work, and housing of Christian monks and nuns. The conc ...
dedicated to this. Thus the
Cîteaux Abbey Cîteaux Abbey ( ) is a Catholic abbey located in Saint-Nicolas-lès-Cîteaux, south of Dijon, France. It is notable for being the original house of the Order of Cistercians. Today, it belongs to the Trappists (also called the Cistercians of th ...
(founded in 1098) with plantations in
Côte d'Or Côte Restaurants Group Limited, trading as Côte (formerly Côte Brasserie), stylised as CÔTE is a French-style British restaurant chain founded by Richard Caring, Andy Bassadone, Chris Benians and Nick Fiddler in Wimbledon, London Wimbl ...
.
Le Figaro () is a French daily morning newspaper founded in 1826. It was named after Figaro, a character in several plays by polymath Pierre Beaumarchais, Beaumarchais (1732–1799): ''Le Barbier de Séville'', ''The Guilty Mother, La Mère coupable'', ...
et
La Revue du vin de France ''La Revue du vin de France'' is a French magazine on wine published monthly. The publication has been described by wine critic Jancis Robinson as "France's only serious wine magazine". Following the magazine's acquisition by Groupe Marie Claire ...
(2008) : ''Vins de France et du monde'' (Bourgogne : Chablis), L'histoire, p.26.
In the year 1395, Philip the Bold decided to improve the quality of wines and prohibited the cultivation of the Gamay grape on his land in favor of Pinot noir. Finally in 1416, Charles VI issued a decree which fixed a limit on the production of Burgundy wine.Site du BIVB : Historique
, consulted on 24 November 2008.
In 1422, according to the records, the harvest took place in August in
Côte de Nuits The Côte de Nuits () is a French wine region located in the northern part of the Côte d'Or (escarpment), Côte d'Or, the limestone ridge that is at the heart of the Burgundy wine region. It extends from Dijon to just south of Nuits-Saint-Georges ...
.
La Revue du vin de France ''La Revue du vin de France'' is a French magazine on wine published monthly. The publication has been described by wine critic Jancis Robinson as "France's only serious wine magazine". Following the magazine's acquisition by Groupe Marie Claire ...
n°482S : ''Le Millésime 2003 en Bourgogne'', p.109
Upon the death of Charles the Bold, the Burgundy vineyard was annexed back to France during the reign of
Louis XI Louis XI (3 July 1423 – 30 August 1483), called "Louis the Prudent" (), was King of France from 1461 to 1483. He succeeded his father, Charles VII. Louis entered into open rebellion against his father in a short-lived revolt known as the ...
.


Modern period

Also in 1700, the intendant Ferrand wrote a "memo instructing the Duke of Burgundy", indicating to him that the best wines in this province came from the "vineyards
hich Ij () is a village in Golabar Rural District of the Central District in Ijrud County, Zanjan province, Iran Iran, officially the Islamic Republic of Iran (IRI) and also known as Persia, is a country in West Asia. It borders Iraq ...
border on Côte de Nuits and Côte de Beaune".Marcel Lachiver, opcit, p.370.


Contemporary period


19th century

In the 1830s and 1840s, the snout moth came and attacked the vine leaves. It was followed by a fungal disease called
powdery mildew Powdery mildew is a fungus, fungal disease that affects a wide range of plants. Powdery mildew diseases are caused by many different species of Ascomycota, ascomycete fungi in the order Erysiphales. Powdery mildew is one of the easier plant disea ...
(Oidium).
Le Figaro () is a French daily morning newspaper founded in 1826. It was named after Figaro, a character in several plays by polymath Pierre Beaumarchais, Beaumarchais (1732–1799): ''Le Barbier de Séville'', ''The Guilty Mother, La Mère coupable'', ...
and
La Revue du vin de France ''La Revue du vin de France'' is a French magazine on wine published monthly. The publication has been described by wine critic Jancis Robinson as "France's only serious wine magazine". Following the magazine's acquisition by Groupe Marie Claire ...
(2008) : ''Vins de France et du monde'' (Bourgogne : Côte de Beaune), L'histoire, p.26.
The vintage year 1865 produced wines with very high natural levels of sugar and very early harvests. At the end of the century two new vine scourges emerged. The first was
mildew Mildew is a form of fungus. It is distinguished from its closely related counterpart, mold, largely by its colour: molds appear in shades of black, blue, red, and green, whereas mildew is white. It appears as a thin, superficial growth consisti ...
, another fungal disease, and the second was
phylloxera Grape phylloxera is an insect pest of grapevines worldwide, originally native to eastern North America. Grape phylloxera (''Daktulosphaira vitifoliae'' (Fitch 1855) belongs to the family Phylloxeridae, within the order Hemiptera, bugs); orig ...
. This burrowing insect, native of North America, severely damaged the vineyard.


20th century

The mildew caused huge problems in 1910. Emergence of the high clearance
tractors A tractor is an engineering vehicle specifically designed to deliver a high tractive effort (or torque) at slow speeds, for the purposes of hauling a Trailer (vehicle), trailer or machinery such as that used in agriculture, mining or constructio ...
(enjambeur) in the 1960s and 1970s, replacing horses. Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) created in 1987.Site du BIVB
/ref> The techniques in wine making and oenology have significantly evolved in the past 50 years (with green harvesting, sorting tables, stainless steel tanks, electric and pneumatic presses...).


21st century

With the heat wave of 2003, in some areas the harvests began in mid-August, a month in advance; these were very early harvests that, according to the records, had not been seen since 1422 and 1865.


Climate

The climate is temperate with a slight continental tendency.


Vineyard


Presentation

The vineyard extends over the
Marsannay-la-Côte Marsannay-la-Côte () is a commune in the Côte-d'Or department in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in eastern France. Geography Marsannay-la-Côte contains a strip of vineyards on the slope of the Côte d'Or. The vineyards are the most nor ...
,
Chenôve Chenôve () is a commune in the Côte-d'Or department in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region of France. Until 1955, it was a small scale wine-growing village, when it was absorbed into the urban conglomeration of Dijon. It is now the most po ...
and Couchey communes. It comprises of red and rosé wines, and of white wines.


Assortment of grape varieties

The
Pinot noir Pinot noir (), also known as Pinot nero, is a red-wine grape variety of the species ''Vitis vinifera''. The name also refers to wines created predominantly from Pinot noir grapes. The name is derived from the French language, French words fo ...
variety constitutes exclusively the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) red wines. It consists of small dense pine-shaped bunches Christian Pessey, ''Vins de Bourgogne'', ''La vigne et le vin'' « Pinot noir », p.12 composed of dark blue ovoid grapes. It is a delicate variety that is susceptible to major diseases, particularly to
mildew Mildew is a form of fungus. It is distinguished from its closely related counterpart, mold, largely by its colour: molds appear in shades of black, blue, red, and green, whereas mildew is white. It appears as a thin, superficial growth consisti ...
, the parasitic rougeot, gray mold (on bunches and leaves), and plant hopper.''Catalogue des variétés et clones de vigne cultivés en France'' ENTAV, Éditeur This variety, which requires careful removing of unwanted buds, tends to produce a large number of grapillons. It takes full advantage of the vegetative cycle and ripens at an early stage. There is a high potential of an accumulation of sugars is for an only average and sometimes insufficient acidity to reach maturity. The wines are quite powerful, rich, colorful and to be kept for maturing. They are generally moderately tannic. The
chardonnay Chardonnay (, ; ) is a green-skinned grape variety used in the production of white wine. The variety originated in the Burgundy wine region of eastern France, but is now grown wherever wine is produced, from England to New Zealand. For new a ...
variety constitutes the white wines of the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC). Its bunches are relatively small, cylindrical, less dense than those of the Pinot noir, Christian Pessey, ''Vins de Bourgogne'', ''La vigne et le vin'' « Chardonnay », p.13 and consist of irregular, rather small, golden yellow grapes. Like the Pinot noir, from maturation of the first stage like the Pinot noir, it adapts better to the humidity of the end of the season with a better resistance against rotting unless undergoing vigorous growth. It is susceptible to
mildew Mildew is a form of fungus. It is distinguished from its closely related counterpart, mold, largely by its colour: molds appear in shades of black, blue, red, and green, whereas mildew is white. It appears as a thin, superficial growth consisti ...
and the
flavescence dorée Flavescence dorée (from French "Flavescence" : yellowing and "dorée" : golden) is one of the most important and damaging phytoplasma diseases of the vine with the potential to threaten vineyards.Maggi F, Bosco D, Galetto L, Palmano S, Marzachì ...
bacterial disease. It buds just before the Pinot noir, which also makes it sensitive to spring frosts. The sugar contents of the berries can achieve high levels while retaining a significant acidity, which allows for wines to be particularly well balanced, powerful, detailed, and ropy, with much volume.


Harvesting


Mechanical work

This work begins with pruning using the Guyot simple system, with a cane of five to eight buds and a spur of one to three buds,''Conduite et gestion de l'exploitation agricole'', cours de viticulture du lycée viticole de Beaune (1999-2001). Baccalauréat professionnel option viticulture-oenologie. followed by the drawing of the vine shoots. The vine shoots are removed and then are either burned or placed in the middle of the row to be crushed. Next is the repairs process, then the bending of the canes. Eventually, after the bending of the canes, grafting is performed. Pruning may begin once the vines have begun growing. This method offers the possibility of somewhat regulating production. The
vine A vine is any plant with a growth habit of trailing or scandent (that is, climbing) stems, lianas, or runners. The word ''vine'' can also refer to such stems or runners themselves, for instance, when used in wicker work.Jackson; Benjamin; Da ...
s are tied up once they have already grown significantly; this is generally carried out two or three times. Green harvesting is practised more and more in this appellation. This process is carried out in order to regulate production and especially to increase the quality of remaining grapes. The manual labour method in the vineyard is finished upon completion of the all-important harvesting stage.


Travail mécanique

The high clearance
tractors A tractor is an engineering vehicle specifically designed to deliver a high tractive effort (or torque) at slow speeds, for the purposes of hauling a Trailer (vehicle), trailer or machinery such as that used in agriculture, mining or constructio ...
(''enjambeur'') are a great help. The different steps consist of crushing the vine shoots after they have been taken and placed in the middle of the row; a hole being made in the auger, where the vines stocks are missing, in order to plant grafts in the spring; ploughing or scraping, done in order to aerate the soil and eliminate any weeds; chemical weeding to kill weeds; several treatments of the vines, done in order to protect against fungal diseases (mildew, powdery mildew, grey rot, etc.) and some insects (Eudemis and Cochylis); regular trimming consisting in snipping or cutting excess vine branches (shoots) using the trellising system; mechanical harvesting carried out with a harvesting machine or a grape picking head mounted on a high clearance tractor (enjambeur).


Yield

The yield is around 1,620 litres per acre for red wine and 1,820 litres per acre for white wine.


Minimum and maximum alcoholic strength by volume


Wine making and aging

Here are the general methods of wine making in this appellation. There are however small differences in approach amongst the different growers and traders.


Red wine making

The grape
harvest Harvesting is the process of collecting plants, animals, or fish (as well as fungi) as food, especially the process of gathering mature crops, and "the harvest" also refers to the collected crops. Reaping is the cutting of grain or pulses fo ...
is done when the grapes are ripe and is done manually or mechanically. The manual harvest is for the most part sorted, either at the vineyard or at the cellar with a sorting table, thereby removing the rotten grapes or insufficiently mature ones. The manual harvest is usually broken and then placed in vats. Cold pre-fermentation maceration is sometimes carried out. The fermentation can now begin, usually after the application of
yeast Yeasts are eukaryotic, single-celled microorganisms classified as members of the fungus kingdom (biology), kingdom. The first yeast originated hundreds of millions of years ago, and at least 1,500 species are currently recognized. They are est ...
. Then begins the work of extracting the polyphenols (tannins, anthocyanins) and other qualitative aspects of the grape (polysaccharides etc.). The extraction is done by pigeage, an operation which consists in punching the cap into the fermenting juice using a wooden tool or nowadays a hydraulic system. More commonly, the extraction is conducted by reassemblies, an operation which involves pumping the juice from the bottom of the tank to water the cap and thus wash away the qualitative components of the grapes. The fermentation temperature may be higher or lower depending on the practices of each winemaker with an average of 28° to 35° at fermentation peak. Chaptalization is carried out if the natural alcohol content is not enough: this process is regulated. The alcoholic fermentation is followed by racking which produces free-run wine and press wine. The malolactic fermentation takes place after, but it is temperature-dependent. The wine is racked and placed in barrels or tanks for maturing. The maturing continues for several months (12 to 24 months) and the wine is refined, filtered and bottled.


White wine making

Like for red wine, the harvest is done manually or mechanically and can be sorted. The grapes are then transferred to a press for pressing. Once the grape must is in the tank, the settling is usually carried out after enzymes are added. At this stage, a pre-fermentary cold stabulation (about 10° to 12° for several days) may be sought to facilitate the extraction of flavors. But usually after 12 to 48 hours, the clear juice is racked and fermented. Fermentation takes place with special monitoring of the temperature, which should remain more or less stable (18° to 24°). Chaptalization is also practiced to increase the alcoholic strength if necessary. Malolactic fermentation is carried out in barrels or vats. The wines are aged "on lees", in barrels, in which the winemaker regularly conducts a stirring (bâtonnage), or a re-suspension of the lees. This process lasts for several months during the maturing of the white wine. In the end, the wine is filtered to make it less cloudy The process ends with bottling.


Rosé wine making

Manual or mechanical
harvesting Harvesting is the process of collecting plants, animals, or fish (as well as fungi) as food, especially the process of gathering mature crops, and "the harvest" also refers to the collected crops. Reaping is the cutting of grain or pulses fo ...
with either
Pinot noir Pinot noir (), also known as Pinot nero, is a red-wine grape variety of the species ''Vitis vinifera''. The name also refers to wines created predominantly from Pinot noir grapes. The name is derived from the French language, French words fo ...
or
Gamay Gamay () is a purple-colored grape variety used to make red wines, most notably grown in Beaujolais and in the Loire_Valley_(wine), Loire Valley around Tours. Its full name is Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc. It is a very old cultivar, mentioned as lon ...
. The grapes are sometimes sorted. Two methods are used: either pressing (Rosé pressing), or placing the harvest in a tank for an early maceration: bleeding off (bleeding rosé), made with the juice drawn from the tank. Fermentation is done in the tank, like the white wine, and then followed by monitoring of the temperature, chaptalization, etc. Malolactic fermentation is then carried out. Maturing takes place in vats, (sometimes in barrels). Finally, the wine is filtered and bottled.


Marketing

Production yields 550,000 liters of red wine, 250,000 litres of rosé wine and 130,000 litres of white wine. The marketing of this appellation is done through various sales channels: in the vaults of the wine-grower, in wine fairs (independent winemakers, etc.), in food fairs, for export in the Cafés-Hôtels-Restaurants (CHR) in large and medium-sized stores (GMS).


Photos

File:Chateau Marsannay.jpg, Chateau de Marsannay surrounded by vines


Production

In 2008, of vineyard surface was in production for Marsannay wine, of which were used for Marsannay rosé. In the same year, 9,650 hectoliter of wine was produced, of which 6,455 hectoliter red wine, 1,481 hectoliter rosé wine, and 1,714 hectoliter white wine.BIVB: Les Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée de Bourgogne
accessed on 17 November 2009
The total amount produced corresponds to just under 1.3 million bottles of wine, of which just over 850,000 bottles of red wine, just under 200,000 bottles of rosé, and a little over 200,000 bottles of white wine.


AOC regulations

The AOC regulations allow up to 15 per cent total of Chardonnay,
Pinot blanc Pinot blanc () or Pinot bianco is a white wine grape. It is a point genetic mutation of Pinot noir. Pinot noir is genetically unstable and will occasionally experience a point mutation in which a vine bears all black fruit except for one cane wh ...
and
Pinot gris Pinot gris, pinot grigio (, ), or ''Grauburgunder'' is a white wine grape variety of the species ''Vitis vinifera''. Thought to be a mutant clone of the pinot noir variety, it normally has a pinkish-gray hue, accounting for its name, but th ...
as accessory grapes in the red wines, and Pinot gris may be used in the rosé wines, but this not very often practiced. For white wines, both Chardonnay and Pinot blanc are allowed, but most wines are likely to be 100% Chardonnay. The allowed base yield is 40 hectoliter per hectare of red wine and 45 for rosé and white wine. The grapes must reach a maturity of at least 10.5 per cent
potential alcohol Must weight is a measure of the amount of sugar in grape juice (must) and, hence, indicates the amount of alcohol that could be produced if it is all fermented to alcohol, rather than left as residual sugar.Marsannay-la-Côte Marsannay-la-Côte () is a commune in the Côte-d'Or department in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in eastern France. Geography Marsannay-la-Côte contains a strip of vineyards on the slope of the Côte d'Or. The vineyards are the most nor ...


References


Bibliography

* Christian Pessey : ''Vins de Bourgogne'' (Histoire et dégustations), édition : Flammarion, Paris, 2002, Histoire (91 pages) et Dégustations (93 pages) * ''
Le Figaro () is a French daily morning newspaper founded in 1826. It was named after Figaro, a character in several plays by polymath Pierre Beaumarchais, Beaumarchais (1732–1799): ''Le Barbier de Séville'', ''The Guilty Mother, La Mère coupable'', ...
'' et ''
La Revue du Vin de France ''La Revue du vin de France'' is a French magazine on wine published monthly. The publication has been described by wine critic Jancis Robinson as "France's only serious wine magazine". Following the magazine's acquisition by Groupe Marie Claire ...
'' : ''Les vins de France et du monde'' (20 volumes), n°6 (Chablis), 96 pages, Édité par La société du Figaro, Paris, 2008, * ''
Le Figaro () is a French daily morning newspaper founded in 1826. It was named after Figaro, a character in several plays by polymath Pierre Beaumarchais, Beaumarchais (1732–1799): ''Le Barbier de Séville'', ''The Guilty Mother, La Mère coupable'', ...
'' et ''
La Revue du Vin de France ''La Revue du vin de France'' is a French magazine on wine published monthly. The publication has been described by wine critic Jancis Robinson as "France's only serious wine magazine". Following the magazine's acquisition by Groupe Marie Claire ...
'' : ''Les vins de France et du monde'' (20 volumes), n°11 (Côtes de Beaune), 96 pages, Édité par La société du Figaro, Paris, 2008, *
Marcel Lachiver Marcel may refer to: People * Marcel (given name), people with the given name Marcel * Marcel (footballer, born August 1981), Marcel Silva Andrade, Brazilian midfielder * Marcel (footballer, born November 1981), Marcel Augusto Ortolan, Brazilian ...
, ''Vins, vignes et vignerons. Histoire du vignoble français'', Éd. Fayard, Paris, 1988, pp. 289, 367, 368, 372, 374. {{DEFAULTSORT:Marsannay Wine Burgundy (historical region) AOCs