The Marquesas Islands ( ; or ' or ' ;
Marquesan: ' (
North Marquesan) and ' (
South Marquesan), both meaning "the land of men") are a group of
volcanic islands in
French Polynesia
French Polynesia ( ; ; ) is an overseas collectivity of France and its sole #Governance, overseas country. It comprises 121 geographically dispersed islands and atolls stretching over more than in the Pacific Ocean, South Pacific Ocean. The t ...
, an
overseas collectivity
The French overseas collectivities ( abbreviated as COM) are first-order administrative divisions of France, like the French regions, but have a semi-autonomous status. The COMs include some former French overseas colonies and other French ...
of
France
France, officially the French Republic, is a country located primarily in Western Europe. Overseas France, Its overseas regions and territories include French Guiana in South America, Saint Pierre and Miquelon in the Atlantic Ocean#North Atlan ...
in the southern Pacific Ocean. Their highest point is the peak of
Mount Oave () on
Ua Pou island, at 1,230 m (4,035 ft) above sea level.
Archaeological research suggests the islands were colonized in the 10th century AD by voyagers from West Polynesia. Over the centuries that followed, the islands have maintained a "remarkably uniform culture, biology and language".
The Marquesas were named after the 16th-century Spanish
Viceroy of Peru, the
Marquis of Cañete (), by navigator , who visited them in 1595.
The Marquesas Islands constitute one of the
five administrative divisions (') of French Polynesia. The capital of the Marquesas Islands' administrative subdivision is the town of
Taioha'e, on the island of
Nuku Hiva. The population of the Marquesas Islands was 9,346 inhabitants at the time of the August 2017 census.
Geography

The Marquesas Islands group is one of the most remote in the world. It lies about northeast of
Tahiti
Tahiti (; Tahitian language, Tahitian , ; ) is the largest island of the Windward Islands (Society Islands), Windward group of the Society Islands in French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of France. It is located in the central part of t ...
and about southwest of Mexico (the nearest continental land mass). It is thought to have been formed by a centre of upwelling
magma
Magma () is the molten or semi-molten natural material from which all igneous rocks are formed. Magma (sometimes colloquially but incorrectly referred to as ''lava'') is found beneath the surface of the Earth, and evidence of magmatism has also ...
, called the
Marquesas hotspot. The islands in the group fall naturally into two geographical divisions. One is the northern group, consisting of
Eiao,
Hatutu (
Hatutaa),
Motu One, and the islands surrounding the large island of
Nuku Hiva:
Motu Iti, also called
Hatu Iti;
Ua Pou;
Motu Oa; and
Ua Huka). The other is the southern group, consisting of
Fatu Uku,
Tahuata,
Moho Tani (
Motane),
Terihi,
Fatu Hiva, and
Motu Nao (also called Thomasset Rock), which are clustered around the main island of
Hiva Oa.
The Marquesas are among the largest island groups in French Polynesia. Their combined land area is . One of the islands in the group, Nuku Hiva, is the second-largest island in the entire territory (after
Tahiti
Tahiti (; Tahitian language, Tahitian , ; ) is the largest island of the Windward Islands (Society Islands), Windward group of the Society Islands in French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of France. It is located in the central part of t ...
). With the exception of Motu One, all the islands of the Marquesas are of volcanic origin.
Although Polynesia tends to be associated with images of lush tropical vegetation, and the Marquesas lie within the tropics, they are remarkably dry. That is because they constitute the first major break for the prevailing easterly winds that arise from the (atmospherically) dry
Humboldt Current. This subjects the Marquesas to frequent drought conditions. Only those islands that reach highest into the clouds (generally, higher than above sea level) reliably have periods of precipitation. These conditions have historically led to periodic fluctuations in the availability of fresh water. Periodic lack of water has made human habitation only intermittently sustainable in certain parts of the various islands throughout the archipelago. For example, Ua Huka Island (maximum elevation ) has a history of low population levels, and Eiao Island (maximum elevation ) has been intermittently uninhabited.
Islands of the Marquesas
Northern Marquesas
*
Eiao
*
Hatutu
*
Motu Iti
*
Motu Oa
*
Motu One
*
Nuku Hiva
*
Ua Huka
*
Ua Pou
Southern Marquesas
*
Fatu Hiva
*
Fatu Huku
*
Hiva Oa
*
Moho Tani
*
Motu Nao
*
Tahuata
*
Terihi
Seamounts
There are also a number of
seamounts or shoals, located primarily in the area of the northern Marquesas. Among these are:
*
Clark Bank
*
Hinakura Bank
*
Lawson Bank
*
Bank Jean Goguel
Geology
Most of the Marquesas Islands are of volcanic origin, created by the
Marquesas hotspot that underlies the
Pacific Plate. The Marquesas Islands lie above a submarine volcanic
plateau
In geology and physical geography, a plateau (; ; : plateaus or plateaux), also called a high plain or a tableland, is an area of a highland consisting of flat terrain that is raised sharply above the surrounding area on at least one side. ...
of the same name. The plateau, like the islands, is generally believed to be less than 5 million years old, though one hypothesis is that the plateau (not the islands) is significantly older, and has been formed by forces similar to those that have formed the
Inca Plateau, which is
subducting under northern
Peru
Peru, officially the Republic of Peru, is a country in western South America. It is bordered in the north by Ecuador and Colombia, in the east by Brazil, in the southeast by Bolivia, in the south by Chile, and in the south and west by the Pac ...
.
The Marquesas islands are estimated to range in age from 1.3 million years old (Fatu Hiva) to 6 million years old (Eiao). All of them except
Motu One are
volcanic island
Geologically, a volcanic island is an island of volcanic origin. The term high island can be used to distinguish such islands from low islands, which are formed from sedimentation or the uplifting of coral reefs (which have often formed ...
s. Motu One is a
low island, consisting of a small
sand bank on a
coral reef
A coral reef is an underwater ecosystem characterized by reef-building corals. Reefs are formed of colonies of coral polyps held together by calcium carbonate. Most coral reefs are built from stony corals, whose polyps cluster in group ...
, the only
atoll
An atoll () is a ring-shaped island, including a coral rim that encircles a lagoon. There may be coral islands or cays on the rim. Atolls are located in warm tropical or subtropical parts of the oceans and seas where corals can develop. Most ...
in the Marquesas Islands. Unlike most French Polynesian islands, the Marquesas islands (other than Motu One) are not surrounded by protective fringing reefs.
In those islands, coral is found only in bays and other protected areas, or, in the case of
Fatu Huku, in an unusual place: in fossilized form at the top of the island. The
South Equatorial Current lashes all these islands fiercely; its force has carved
sea-caves that dot their shores. Although the islands have valleys that empty into small bays, they are remarkable for their mountain ridges, which end abruptly in cliffs at the edge of the sea.
Climate

Temperatures in the Marquesas are stable all year round. Precipitation is highly variable: greater in the northern and eastern (windward) coastal areas and mountains, averaging annually; much lower in the western (leeward) areas. Average annual precipitation in the "desert" region of Nuku Hiva is only . Droughts are frequent, sometimes lasting several years, and seem to be associated with the phenomenon. The typical variability of the sea-level climate in the Marquesas is well illustrated by measurements made at the
Atuona
Atuona, located on Atuona Bay on the southern side of Hiva Oa island, French Polynesia, is the administrative centre of the Communes of France, commune (municipality) of Hiva-Oa. Atuona was the capital of all the Marquesas Islands but it has been ...
weather station on Hiva Oa: The highest recorded annual rainfall there is ; the lowest is .
History
The first recorded settlers of the Marquesas were
Polynesians who arrived from West Polynesia, descendants of the
Lapita Culture
The Lapita culture is the name given to a Neolithic Austronesian peoples, Austronesian people and their distinct material culture, who settled Island Melanesia via a seaborne migration at around 1600 to 500 BCE. The Lapita people are believed t ...
. Early attempts to carbon-date evidence from the site suggested they arrived before 100 AD, with other estimates proposing settlement from 600 AD, but several more recent independent studies suggest that they arrived more recently.
For example, a 2010 study that applied higher-precision radiocarbon dating methods to more reliable samples suggests that the earliest colonisation of eastern Polynesia took place much later, within a shorter time period, and in two waves: The first was a migration into the Society Islands between about 1025 and 1120 AD (four centuries later than had previously been thought); the second, between 70 and 265 years later, was a dispersal of migrants to all the remaining Marquesas islands between about 1190 and 1290 AD.
[Janet M. Wilmshurst, Terry L. Hunt, Carl P. Lipo, and Atholl J. Anderson. "High-precision radiocarbon dating shows recent and rapid initial human colonisation of East Polynesia"](_blank)
, ''PNAS'', vol. 108 no. 5, doi: 10.1073/pnas.1015876108, accessed 26 October 2015 This relatively rapid colonisation is believed to account for the "remarkable uniformity of East Polynesian culture, biology and language".
Historical culture
The richness of the natural resources in the islands has historically supported a large population. The inhabitants historically made a living by fishing, collecting shellfish, hunting birds, and gardening. They relied heavily on
breadfruit
Breadfruit (''Artocarpus altilis'') is a species of flowering tree in the mulberry and jackfruit family ( Moraceae) believed to have been selectively bred in Polynesia from the breadnut ('' Artocarpus camansi''). Breadfruit was spread into ...
but raised at least 32 other introduced crops. Hard evidence of significant pre-European interarchipelago trade has been found in basalt from the Marquesan quarry island of Eiao. It is known to have been distributed via sailing canoes over distances of more than to provide adze heads to Mo'orea (Society Islands), Mangareva (Gambier Islands), Tubuai (Austral Islands), Rarotonga (Cook Islands), and Tabuaeran (Northern Line Islands).
European contact
The first Europeans to reach the Marquesas may have been the crew members aboard the ''San Lesmes'', a Spanish vessel that disappeared in a storm in June 1526; it was part of an expedition headed by
García Jofre de Loaísa. The Spanish explorer reached them nearly 70 years later, on 21 July 1595. He named the islands after his patron,
, 5th Marquis of (), who served as
Viceroy of Peru from 1590 to 1596. Mendaña visited first
Fatu Hiva and then
Tahuata before continuing on to the
Solomon Islands
Solomon Islands, also known simply as the Solomons,John Prados, ''Islands of Destiny'', Dutton Caliber, 2012, p,20 and passim is an island country consisting of six major islands and over 1000 smaller islands in Melanesia, part of Oceania, t ...
. His expedition charted the four southernmost Marquesas as ' (Fatu Hiva), ' (
Hiva Oa), ' (
Moho Tani), and ' (Tahuata).
In the late 18th century, European explorers estimated that the population was 80,000 to 100,000. Europeans and Americans were impressed with how easy life appeared to be in the islands, which had a rich habitat and environment. In 1791, the American
maritime fur trader
Joseph Ingraham first visited the northern Marquesas while commanding the
brig
A brig is a type of sailing vessel defined by its rig: two masts which are both square rig, square-rigged. Brigs originated in the second half of the 18th century and were a common type of smaller merchant vessel or warship from then until the l ...
. He named them the Washington Islands.
In 1813,
Commodore David Porter claimed
Nuku Hiva for the United States, but the
United States Congress
The United States Congress is the legislature, legislative branch of the federal government of the United States. It is a Bicameralism, bicameral legislature, including a Lower house, lower body, the United States House of Representatives, ...
never ratified that claim. For a brief period the islands exported
sandalwood
Sandalwood is a class of woods from trees in the genus ''Santalum''. The woods are heavy, yellow, and fine-grained, and, unlike many other aromatic woods, they retain their fragrance for decades. Sandalwood oil is extracted from the woods. Sanda ...
, but the resource was depleted within four years.
The islands were a popular port of call for whaling ships in the
Age of Sail
The Age of Sail is a period in European history that lasted at the latest from the mid-16th (or mid-15th) to the mid-19th centuries, in which the dominance of sailing ships in global trade and warfare culminated, particularly marked by the int ...
. The first on record to visit was the ''Hope'', in April 1791. The last known such visitor was the American whaler ''Alaska'' in February 1907.

In 1842, France conducted a successful military operation in support of the native chief
Iotete's claim that he was king of the whole island of Tahuata. The French government then laid claim to the whole island group and established a settlement on Nuku Hiva. That settlement was abandoned in 1857, but France re-established control over the group in 1870. It later incorporated the Marquesas into
French Polynesia
French Polynesia ( ; ; ) is an overseas collectivity of France and its sole #Governance, overseas country. It comprises 121 geographically dispersed islands and atolls stretching over more than in the Pacific Ocean, South Pacific Ocean. The t ...
.
The indigenous people of the Marquesas suffered high death rates from
disease
A disease is a particular abnormal condition that adversely affects the structure or function (biology), function of all or part of an organism and is not immediately due to any external injury. Diseases are often known to be medical condi ...
s carried by Western explorers, such as
smallpox
Smallpox was an infectious disease caused by Variola virus (often called Smallpox virus), which belongs to the genus '' Orthopoxvirus''. The last naturally occurring case was diagnosed in October 1977, and the World Health Organization (W ...
and
measles
Measles (probably from Middle Dutch or Middle High German ''masel(e)'', meaning "blemish, blood blister") is a highly contagious, Vaccine-preventable diseases, vaccine-preventable infectious disease caused by Measles morbillivirus, measles v ...
, because none of them had any
immunity to them.
The Marquesas lost more people to death from these diseases than any other island group in Polynesia. The population shrank from over 78,000 inhabitants in the 18th century to about 20,000 by the middle of the 19th century, and to just over 4,000 by the beginning of the 20th century,
reaching an all-time low of 2,255 in 1926. After that, the population started to increase, reaching 8,548 by the time of the November 2002 census
(not including the Marquesan community residing in
Tahiti
Tahiti (; Tahitian language, Tahitian , ; ) is the largest island of the Windward Islands (Society Islands), Windward group of the Society Islands in French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of France. It is located in the central part of t ...
), and 9,346 by the time of the August 2017 census.
Contemporary history
In 2024, the Marquesas Islands were listed as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site
World Heritage Sites are landmarks and areas with legal protection under an treaty, international treaty administered by UNESCO for having cultural, historical, or scientific significance. The sites are judged to contain "cultural and natural ...
under "
Te Henua Enata" (), as part of the
committee
A committee or commission is a body of one or more persons subordinate to a deliberative assembly or other form of organization. A committee may not itself be considered to be a form of assembly or a decision-making body. Usually, an assembly o ...
's commitment to conservation efforts protecting indigenous populations.
Government and politics
The Marquesas Islands form one of the
five administrative divisions (') of French Polynesia. French and Tahitian are the official languages of government. The capital of the Marquesas Islands administrative subdivision is the settlement of
Taioha'e on the island of
Nuku Hiva.
The sparsely populated Marquesas Islands are located from
Tahiti
Tahiti (; Tahitian language, Tahitian , ; ) is the largest island of the Windward Islands (Society Islands), Windward group of the Society Islands in French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of France. It is located in the central part of t ...
. With 183,645 inhabitants (2012 census), Tahiti is the most populous island of French Polynesia, containing 68.5% of the total population of the grouping.
Residents of the Marquesas have chafed at Tahiti's overwhelming dominance, complaining of neglect by politicians based in Tahiti, and leaders have suggested developing a direct relationship with the metropole, the government in Paris, instead of depending on
Papeete
Papeete (Tahitian language, Tahitian: ''Papeʻetē'', pronounced ; old name: ''Vaiʻetē''Personal communication with Michael Koch in ) is the capital city of French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of the France, French Republic in the Pacific ...
.
[Polémique à Tahiti: les Marquises veulent se rapprocher de Paris](_blank)
, Rue 89, 23 December 2007 As sentiment was rising in Tahiti in the 21st century for independence from France, several prominent Marquesan political leaders in 2007 floated the idea of the Marquesas Islands separating from French Polynesia but remaining within the French Republic.
This has generated controversy in Tahiti, where pro-independence Tahitian leaders have accused the French central government of encouraging the separation of the Marquesas Islands from French Polynesia.
Administration
Community of communes of the Marquesas Islands (CODIM)
The Marquesas Islands do not have a provincial or regional assembly, but since 2010 the six
communes (municipalities) into which the Marquesas Islands are divided have gathered to form an
intercommunality, the
community of communes of the Marquesas Islands (in French: ''communauté de communes des îles Marquises'', or CODIM).
As all communities of communes in France, the CODIM is not a full-fledged
territorial collectivity
A territorial collectivity (, previously '), or territorial authority, in many francophone countries, is a Legal person, legal entity governed by public law that exercises within its territory certain powers devolved to it by the State as part of a ...
, but only a federation of communes (in French Polynesia, only the overseas collectivity of French Polynesia and the 48 communes are territorial collectivities). The CODIM is governed by a president and by a community council (''conseil communautaire'') which is made up of 15 delegates elected by the municipal councils of the six communes among their members, with each commune having a number of delegates proportional to the size of its population. The president of the CODIM and the community council have their offices in
Atuona
Atuona, located on Atuona Bay on the southern side of Hiva Oa island, French Polynesia, is the administrative centre of the Communes of France, commune (municipality) of Hiva-Oa. Atuona was the capital of all the Marquesas Islands but it has been ...
, on the island of
Hiva Oa. The current president is
Benoît Kautai, mayor of
Nuku Hiva, who was elected president by the community council in July 2020 after the
2020 French municipal elections and is due to serve for six years until the next municipal elections.
The community of communes of the Marquesas Islands was created in 2010 with the aim of delegating powers both from the six communes and from the overseas collectivity of French Polynesia to this new intercommunal structure, due to the isolation of the Marquesas Islands and distance from the seat of the French Polynesian government in Tahiti.
The government of French Polynesia transferred to the CODIM the power to oversee economic development. As a result, the CODIM is now in charge of drafting a blueprint for local economic development. The French Polynesian government also transferred to the CODIM the power to grant subsidies in favor of cultural and sports activities. Transfers of powers from the six communes to the CODIM have been extremely limited.
Besides drafting a blueprint for economic development and granting subsidies for cultural and sports activities, the CODIM is currently in charge only of creating hiking trails, drafting studies for waste collection (but not actually managing waste collection, which the communes kept for themselves), drafting a blueprint for transports between the islands of the archipelago, acquiring computers and office equipment for the six communes of the archipelago, and offering legal and technical support to the six communes.
The French Polynesian public auditor (''chambre territoriale des comptes'') has pointed out that the actions of the CODIM have been very limited and fallen short of its theoretical powers due to a very small budget (less than 100 million Pacific Francs, i.e. less than US$1 million).
For example, the CODIM has not exercised its power to acquire computers and office equipment for the six communes of the archipelago, and more generally its creation has not led to a pooling of resources and expenses by the six communes.
Most of the CODIM's budget has been spent on drafting a blueprint for local economic development, but the CODIM has neither the power nor the financial means to implement the blueprint and build the required infrastructure. The public auditor has called for an expansion of the powers and financial resources of the CODIM.
Deconcentrated administrations
Administratively, the Marquesas Islands form a
deconcentrated subdivision of both the French central State and the government of French Polynesia. As a deconcentrated subdivision of the French central State, the Marquesas Islands form the administrative subdivision of the Marquesas (), one of
French Polynesia
French Polynesia ( ; ; ) is an overseas collectivity of France and its sole #Governance, overseas country. It comprises 121 geographically dispersed islands and atolls stretching over more than in the Pacific Ocean, South Pacific Ocean. The t ...
's five
administrative subdivisions. The head of the administrative subdivision of the Marquesas is the ' ("State administrator"), generally simply known as ', also sometimes called ' ("head of the administrative subdivision"). The ' is a civil servant under the authority of the High Commissioner of the French Republic in French Polynesia in
Papeete
Papeete (Tahitian language, Tahitian: ''Papeʻetē'', pronounced ; old name: ''Vaiʻetē''Personal communication with Michael Koch in ) is the capital city of French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of the France, French Republic in the Pacific ...
. The ' and his staff sit in
Taioha'e, on the island of
Nuku Hiva, which has become the administrative capital of the Marquesas Islands, having replaced
Atuona
Atuona, located on Atuona Bay on the southern side of Hiva Oa island, French Polynesia, is the administrative centre of the Communes of France, commune (municipality) of Hiva-Oa. Atuona was the capital of all the Marquesas Islands but it has been ...
on the island of
Hiva Oa, which was previously the capital (although, in reverse to this general trend, Atuona was selected as the seat of the
community of communes of the Marquesas Islands in 2010).

Acting as the representative of the French central State and delegate of Papeete's High Commissioner, the ' of the Marquesas is in charge of:
* Offering legal advice to the
communes (municipalities) of the Marquesas and verifying the legality of decisions made by the communes
* Issuing official documents (
ID cards,
driving licences, etc.), applying immigration rules, organising elections
* Managing security (coordination of
gendarmerie
A gendarmerie () is a paramilitary or military force with law enforcement duties among the civilian population. The term ''gendarme'' () is derived from the medieval French expression ', which translates to " men-at-arms" (). In France and so ...
forces, handling of major crises such as natural disasters, etc.)
* Overseeing public services of the French central State in the Marquesas Islands (such as the correctional facility on Nuku Hiva)
As a deconcentrated subdivision of the government of French Polynesia, the Marquesas Islands form the ' ("district of the Marquesas"), one of French Polynesia's four ' ("districts") created in 2000 by the
Assembly of French Polynesia to serve as deconcentrated subdivisions of the government of French Polynesia in the islands away from
Tahiti
Tahiti (; Tahitian language, Tahitian , ; ) is the largest island of the Windward Islands (Society Islands), Windward group of the Society Islands in French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of France. It is located in the central part of t ...
and
Moorea. The head of the ' is the ', known as ' in French ("territorial administrator"), but the
Tahitian title ' is most often used. The ' is the direct representative of the
president of French Polynesia's government who appoints him. The ' and his staff sit in Taioha'e on Nuku Hiva, same as the State administrator.
The ' is in charge of:
* Coordinating the work of French Polynesian administrations in the Marquesas Islands (such as the French Polynesian administrations in charge of roads, fisheries, etc.)
* Ensuring the enforcement of acts passed by the Assembly of French Polynesia and decisions taken by the government of French Polynesia
* Evaluating the performance of French Polynesian civil servants and sending the evaluations to the responsible ministries in Papeete
* Acting as a liaison between the local population and the government of French Polynesia in Papeete

The Marquesas Islands also form the electoral district of the Marquesas Islands, one of
French Polynesia
French Polynesia ( ; ; ) is an overseas collectivity of France and its sole #Governance, overseas country. It comprises 121 geographically dispersed islands and atolls stretching over more than in the Pacific Ocean, South Pacific Ocean. The t ...
's six electoral districts for the
Assembly of French Polynesia (see also
Politics of French Polynesia).
Communes
The Marquesas Islands are subdivided in six
communes (municipalities). In each of the six communes the local residents with either a French or another
EU citizenship elect a municipal council and a mayor in charge of managing local affairs within the commune. Three communes (
Nuku-Hiva,
Ua-Pou, and
Hiva-Oa) are further subdivided into
associated communes due to their larger population. The communes and associated communes are the only elected councils in the Marquesas since there does not exist a provincial or regional assembly for the entire archipelago (the community council of the CODIM (
community of communes of the Marquesas Islands) is not directly elected by local residents, but is only made up of delegates chosen by the municipal councils of the six communes). Municipal elections are held every six years on the same day as municipal elections in the rest of France (see
2020 French municipal elections for the last municipal elections). Each municipal council then selects delegates among its members to sit in the community council of the CODIM in
Atuona
Atuona, located on Atuona Bay on the southern side of Hiva Oa island, French Polynesia, is the administrative centre of the Communes of France, commune (municipality) of Hiva-Oa. Atuona was the capital of all the Marquesas Islands but it has been ...
(on the island of
Hiva Oa).
The areas and populations of the communes at the 2012 Census were as follows:
*
Nuku-Hiva (388 km
2): 2,966
*
Ua-Pou (106 km
2): 2,173
*
Ua-Huka (83 km
2): 621
*
Hiva-Oa (327 km
2): 2,190
*
Tahuata (61 km
2): 703
*
Fatu-Hiva (85km
2): 611
* ''Total'' (1,049km
2): 9,264
Demographics
Historical population
Migrations
The places of birth of the 9,346 residents of the Marquesas Islands at the 2017 census were the following:
*63.2% were born in the Marquesas Islands (down from 70.5% at the 2007 census)
*29.2% in
Tahiti
Tahiti (; Tahitian language, Tahitian , ; ) is the largest island of the Windward Islands (Society Islands), Windward group of the Society Islands in French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of France. It is located in the central part of t ...
(up from 20.9% at the 2007 census)
*4.0% in
Metropolitan France
Metropolitan France ( or ), also known as European France (), is the area of France which is geographically in Europe and chiefly comprises #Hexagon, the mainland, popularly known as "the Hexagon" ( or ), and Corsica. This collective name for the ...
(down from 4.5% at the 2007 census)
*2.5% in French Polynesia (other than the Marquesas Islands and Tahiti) (down from 3.0% at the 2007 census)
*0.8% in foreign countries (up from 0.6% at the 2007 census)
*0.3% in
overseas France
Overseas France (, also ) consists of 13 France, French territories outside Europe, mostly the remnants of the French colonial empire that remained a part of the French state under various statuses after decolonisation. Most are part of the E ...
(other than French Polynesia) (down from 0.5% at the 2007 census)
Between the 2007 and 2017 censuses, the population of residents of the Marquesas Islands born in Tahiti rose by 50.5% (from 1,810 at the 2007 census to 2,726 at the 2017), and as a result, they made up 29.2% of the population in 2017. A lot of these arrivals from Tahiti, however, are children of Marquesans who had migrated to Tahiti and given birth there, and whose children are returning to the Marquesas, as can be seen in the language statistics: 50.8% of the Marquesas Islands' residents whose age was 15 or older and who were born in Tahiti and lived in the Marquesas at the 2017 census reported that the language they spoke the most at home was
Marquesan, whereas 42.1% reported
French, and only 6.6% reported
Tahitian.

3,353 people born in the Marquesas Islands lived on the island of Tahiti at the 2017 census (down from 3,493 at the 2007 census), whereas 5,907 people born in the Marquesas Islands lived in the Marquesas (down from 6,106 at the 2007 census), and 705 lived in the rest of French Polynesia (up from 679 at the 2007 census).
The total number of people born in the Marquesas Islands and living in French Polynesia decreased from 10,278 at the 2007 census to 9,965 at the 2017 census, as net births were not able to offset the departures to
New Caledonia
New Caledonia ( ; ) is a group of islands in the southwest Pacific Ocean, southwest of Vanuatu and east of Australia. Located from Metropolitan France, it forms a Overseas France#Sui generis collectivity, ''sui generis'' collectivity of t ...
and
Metropolitan France
Metropolitan France ( or ), also known as European France (), is the area of France which is geographically in Europe and chiefly comprises #Hexagon, the mainland, popularly known as "the Hexagon" ( or ), and Corsica. This collective name for the ...
due to the economic crisis experienced by French Polynesia.
Religion
Most of the population of the Marquesas Islands is
Christian
A Christian () is a person who follows or adheres to Christianity, a Monotheism, monotheistic Abrahamic religion based on the life and teachings of Jesus in Christianity, Jesus Christ. Christians form the largest religious community in the wo ...
as a result of successful missionary activity from the
Catholic Church
The Catholic Church (), also known as the Roman Catholic Church, is the List of Christian denominations by number of members, largest Christian church, with 1.27 to 1.41 billion baptized Catholics Catholic Church by country, worldwid ...
, and various
Protestant Christian groups. The main church in the area is the Cathedral of Our Lady of Taioha'e (), seat of the Catholic Diocese of Taioha'e ().
According to 2017 data 90.1%
of the population of the Marquesas Islands was affiliated with the Catholic Church,
an increase from 1950 when Catholics formed 87.3% of population of the islands.
Although the
Mendaña ships had chaplains on board, there does not appear to have been any serious attempt at missionary work in the Marquesas Islands. The first missionaries to arrive in the Marquesas from 1797, coming from
England
England is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. It is located on the island of Great Britain, of which it covers about 62%, and List of islands of England, more than 100 smaller adjacent islands. It ...
via Tahiti, were
William Pascoe Crook (1775–1846) and John Harris (1754–1819) of the
London Missionary Society. Harris could not endure the conditions at all and returned to Tahiti only a few months later. A contemporary report says that he was picked up on the beach, utterly desperate, naked and looted. Crook remained until 1799.
The
American mission from Hawaii was no more successful.
William Patterson Alexander (1805–1864), Benjamin Parker (1803–1877), and
Richard Armstrong (1805–1860) arrived in the Marquesas in 1834 from
Hawaii
Hawaii ( ; ) is an island U.S. state, state of the United States, in the Pacific Ocean about southwest of the U.S. mainland. One of the two Non-contiguous United States, non-contiguous U.S. states (along with Alaska), it is the only sta ...
with their wives and a three-month-old baby. They returned the same year. In 1853, more missionaries led by James Kekela (1824–1904) arrived at Fatu Hiva with their wives from Hawaii, but were unable to remain there because of clashes with Catholic missionaries arriving on a
French warship.
Protestants
Protestantism is a branch of Christianity that emphasizes Justification (theology), justification of sinners Sola fide, through faith alone, the teaching that Salvation in Christianity, salvation comes by unmerited Grace in Christianity, divin ...
went to Hiva Oa, and also had little success. There were few converts; tribal warfare and human sacrifice continued. Protestant missionaries gradually left Hiva Oa and returned to Hawaii, and only James Kekela remained. In 1899, he returned to Hawaii, dying in Honolulu on 29 November 1904. Hawaiian-born missionary James Bicknell translated the
Gospel of John
The Gospel of John () is the fourth of the New Testament's four canonical Gospels. It contains a highly schematic account of the ministry of Jesus, with seven "Book of Signs, signs" culminating in the raising of Lazarus (foreshadowing the ...
into the Marquesan language in 1857.
From 1838 to 1839, the Catholic mission was able to establish itself, supported by the French order (founded in 1800). The missionaries spread from Mangareva to Tahuata, Ua Pou, Fatu Hiva and
Nuku Hiva. They suffered the same hostile tribal reception as the previous Protestants. However, with the support of the French authorities, they were able to sustain themselves in the long run, despite the obstacles. They even managed to baptize King Moana of Nuku Hiva who, however, would die of
smallpox
Smallpox was an infectious disease caused by Variola virus (often called Smallpox virus), which belongs to the genus '' Orthopoxvirus''. The last naturally occurring case was diagnosed in October 1977, and the World Health Organization (W ...
in 1863.
The missionaries of all denominations in many ways worked to introduce Christian ideals and culture to eventually replace the traditional, tribal culture. Not only were the Christians disapproving of the long-enjoyed consumption of
kava
Kava or kava kava (''Piper methysticum'': Latin 'pepper' and Latinized Ancient Greek, Greek 'intoxicating') is a plant in the Piperaceae, pepper family, native to the Pacific Islands. The name ''kava'' is from Tongan language, Tongan and Marqu ...
, the ancient and sacred tattoo artwork, and general dancing and traditional music, but they especially disapproved tribal
fertility
Fertility in colloquial terms refers the ability to have offspring. In demographic contexts, fertility refers to the actual production of offspring, rather than the physical capability to reproduce, which is termed fecundity. The fertility rate ...
/virility rites and
skull dissection. However, they also tried and finally succeeded at putting an end to
cannibalism, human sacrifice and constant tribal warfare.
Language
French and
Tahitian are the official languages of all of French Polynesia, but the Marquesan languages, in their various forms, remain the primary means of communication among residents within this archipelago. In addition, knowledge of French is now almost universal among residents of the Marquesas Islands (see census data below).
Marquesan is a collection of East-Central
Polynesian language dialects, of the Marquesic group, spoken in the Marquesas Islands of
French Polynesia
French Polynesia ( ; ; ) is an overseas collectivity of France and its sole #Governance, overseas country. It comprises 121 geographically dispersed islands and atolls stretching over more than in the Pacific Ocean, South Pacific Ocean. The t ...
. They are usually classified into two groups, North Marquesan and South Marquesan, corresponding roughly along geographic lines.
The North Marquesan dialects are spoken on the islands of
Ua Pu and
Nuku Hiva, and South Marquesan dialects on the islands of
Hiva Oa,
Tahuata and
Fatu Hiva. The dialects of
Ua Huka are often incorrectly classified as North Marquesan; they are instead transitional. While the island is in the northern Marquesas group, the dialects show more morphological and phonological affinities with South Marquesan. The North Marquesan dialects are sometimes considered to be two separate languages: North Marquesan and
Tai Pi Marquesan, the latter being spoken in the valleys of the eastern third of the island of Nuku Hiva, in the ancient province of
Tai Pi.
The most striking feature of the Marquesan languages is their almost universal replacement of the or of other Polynesian languages by a (glottal stop).
Like other Polynesian languages, the phonology of Marquesan languages is characterised by a paucity of consonants and a comparative abundance of vowels.
Language data in 2017 census
At the 2017 census, 97.0% of the population whose age was 15 and older reported that they could speak French (up from 94.1% at the 2007 census). 92.6% reported that they could also read and write it (up from 90.2% at the 2007 census). Only 1.9% of the population whose age was 15 and older had no knowledge of French (down from 4.4% at the 2007 census).
At the same census, 66.9% of the population whose age was 15 and older reported that the language they spoke the most at home was Marquesan (down from 67.8% at the 2007 census). 30.2% reported that French was the language they spoke the most at home (up from 30.1% at the 2007 census). 2.3% reported
Tahitian (up from 1.4% at the 2007 census), and 0.6% reported another language (down from 0.7% at the 2007 census).
4.9% of the population whose age was 15 and older reported that they had no knowledge of any Polynesian language at the 2017 census (down from 7.2% at the 2007 census).
Communications
Airports
There are four airports in the Marquesas, one each on the islands of
Nuku Hiva,
Ua Pou,
Ua Huka, and
Hiva Oa. The terrain of Tahuata is too irregular to allow for the construction of a landing strip without significant investment, and while the upland plateau of central Fatu Hiva is large enough to permit the construction of an airstrip, the island's minuscule population makes such an exercise of dubious benefit.
Telecommunications
The Marquesas are served by telephone as well as by radio and television, mainly from
Tahiti
Tahiti (; Tahitian language, Tahitian , ; ) is the largest island of the Windward Islands (Society Islands), Windward group of the Society Islands in French Polynesia, an overseas collectivity of France. It is located in the central part of t ...
. Recent additions include ''Vini'', a mobile phone service that is a commercial subsidiary of the public , the sole provider of fixed telephony in most of Polynesia. Over a period of about six years, Vini has expanded to cover most of the populated islands.
Art and culture
The Marquesas Islands have a rich tradition of art. Art of the Marquesas ranges from large wooden sculptures of ancestors created for temples to small, intricate personal ornaments made from bone and shell. Carved
wooden objects were decorated in elaborate anthropomorphic and geometric motifs, similar to tattoo designs that are part of a traditional practice.
Biology
The
ecosystem
An ecosystem (or ecological system) is a system formed by Organism, organisms in interaction with their Biophysical environment, environment. The Biotic material, biotic and abiotic components are linked together through nutrient cycles and en ...
of the Marquesas has been devastated in some areas by the activities of
feral livestock. As a first step in preserving what remains, the
Marquesan Nature Reserves were created in 1992.
In 1996
Lucien Kimitete, the Mayor of
Nuku Hiva, proposed that the Marquesas become a UNESCO
World Heritage Site
World Heritage Sites are landmarks and areas with legal protection under an treaty, international treaty administered by UNESCO for having cultural, historical, or scientific significance. The sites are judged to contain "cultural and natural ...
.
In May 2022 public consultations on their listing began.
[ The French government formally lodged an application with UNESCO in January 2023. Te Henua Enata was inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List on July 31, 2024.]
See also
* Administrative divisions of France
The administrative divisions of France are concerned with the institutional and territorial organization of French territory. These territories are located in many parts of the world. There are many administrative divisions, which may have ...
* List of French islands in the Indian and Pacific oceans
* Overseas France
Overseas France (, also ) consists of 13 France, French territories outside Europe, mostly the remnants of the French colonial empire that remained a part of the French state under various statuses after decolonisation. Most are part of the E ...
* Politics of French Polynesia
* '' Survivor: Marquesas''
References
Further reading
*
* Robert Louis Stevenson
Robert Louis Stevenson (born Robert Lewis Balfour Stevenson; 13 November 1850 – 3 December 1894) was a Scottish novelist, essayist, poet and travel writer. He is best known for works such as ''Treasure Island'', ''Strange Case of Dr Jekyll ...
, ''In the South Seas'', 1896.
* Urmenyhazi, Attila. 2013 book publication: ''Samoan & Marquesan Life in Oceania: a probing travelogue''. . .
External links
*
* Stevenson, Robert L. (1896),
In the South Seas
'
Official website Les îles Marquises en polynésie française
Administrative divisions of the Marquesas Islands
(archived)
Effects of the 1946 Aleutian Tsunami on the Marquesas Is.
(archived)
* ttps://web.archive.org/web/20171219054731/http://aranui.ca/ Sailing Schedule to the Marquesas Islands(archived)
{{Authority control
Hotspot volcanoes
Eastern Indo-Pacific
Marine ecoregions