Marit Guldsetbrua Emstad
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Marit Emstad (1841–1929), also known as Marit Guldsetbrua Emstad, was a Norwegian knitter from
Selbu Selbu may refer to: Places *Selbu Municipality, a municipality in Trøndelag county, Norway *Selbu Church, a church in Selbu Municipality in Trøndelag county, Norway *Mebonden (sometimes ''Selbu''), a village within Selbu Municipality in Trøndela ...
credited for inventing Selbu's two-colored mittens,
Selbuvotter Selbuvott () is a knitted woolen mitten, based on a pattern from Selbu Municipality in Norway. Like all mittens, the purpose of selbuvott is to keep hands warm during winter, with one large space for fingers and a separate smaller section for the ...
, as a teenager.


Life

Marit Guldseth was born in 1841 as the third child of Ola Nillsen and Anne Olsdatter Kjønes; Nillsen was from Andersgarden and Kjønes was from Oppigarden. Nillsen and Kjønes would later go on to have four more children. Marit Guldseth married Per Ingebriktsen Flønnesaut and became Marit Flønes; later in life she took the name "Emstad" from her married daughter, after moving in with her. She died in 1929.


Knitting

As a teenager, sometime between 1854 and 1856, Marit Emstad was working as a servant or goat herder for farmer Jo Kjønes when somebody made him stranded wristwarmers and stockings with black and white patterning on the legs as a Christmas present. Kjønes asked Marit if she could make something "as pretty". Marit spent the next year practising with her sisters, and eventually made a pair of white mittens with a black, eight-pointed star, inspired by patterns she had seen on a bridal headcovering (''storbrurplagget''). The next year, which was between 1855 and 1857, she and her sister wore the mittens they had knitted to the church in Selbu, as was common practice during the time. The other women at church found the mittens attractive, and Marit and her sister taught the eight-pointed star to friends and neighbors. They began incorporating the design, later known as the ''
selburose In Norwegian knitting, a ''selburose'' () is a knitted rose pattern in the shape of a regular octagram. It is traditionally used for winter clothing such as the Selbu mitten (''selbuvott'') and sweaters ('' lusekofte, lopapeysa'' and '' mari ...
'', in other garments, and it became very popular in the municipality of
Selbu Selbu may refer to: Places *Selbu Municipality, a municipality in Trøndelag county, Norway *Selbu Church, a church in Selbu Municipality in Trøndelag county, Norway *Mebonden (sometimes ''Selbu''), a village within Selbu Municipality in Trøndela ...
. Knitted mittens with ''selburoses'' known as Selbuvott, became more popular than the region's traditional
nålebinding Nålebinding (Danish (language), Danish and Norwegian (language), Norwegian: literally 'binding with a needle' or 'needle-binding', also naalbinding, nålbinding, nålbindning, or naalebinding) is a fabric creation technique predating both knit ...
mittens, to the point where they replaced them. They also enjoyed popularity as wedding gifts. Each women attending a wedding would make a pair of the mittens for display during the wedding. Afterwards, the bride would distribute the mittens amongst the men, giving the mittens knitted by married women to their husbands. Commercial production of garments with selburoses, particularly mittens began in the 1890s, organized in Selbu by Marit Emstad. In 1897, she sold the first pair of stranded mittens to the
Trondheim Trondheim ( , , ; ), historically Kaupangen, Nidaros, and Trondhjem (), is a city and municipality in Trøndelag county, Norway. As of 2022, it had a population of 212,660. Trondheim is the third most populous municipality in Norway, and is ...
Husflid. During this time, she was becoming more widely known in Norway for her knitting and her role in the cottage industry. In 1912, at the age of 71, she took part in the "Home Arts Craft Exhibition for Trondhjem's Foundation" and was one of the three Selbu knitters awarded a cash prize for her knitting. Two years later, she participated in the
1914 Jubilee Exhibition The 1914 Jubilee Exhibition took place in Oslo, Kristiania, Norway, from May 5 to October 11, 1914. It marked the centennial anniversary of the Norway in 1814, 1814 Constitution of Norway, constitution and focused on industry and agriculture. The m ...
in Oslo and won a certificate for her knitting, weaving, and yarn. In 1926 or 1927,
Peder Morset Peder Morset (4 April 1887 – 19 May 1943) was a Norwegian teacher and resistance member. Born in Selbu Municipality in Sør-Trøndelag, Søndre Trondhjem county, Norway, he was the son of Ole Henriksen Morset (1864–1935) and Ingborg Bernt ...
wrote an article for the Trondheim newspaper about the history of knitting in Selbu, including Marit Emstad's life and work. She died in 1929.


Legacy

Marit Emstad posthumously became known as the "mother of two-color knitting" in Norway, and is widely credited as the first knitter to place selburoses on mittens, a style which became known as Selbuvott. The ''Emstadrosa'', the type of ''selburose'' she originated, was named after her family. On the 150th anniversary of the Selbu mitten's creation, the Selbu Husflid, Selbu Husflidsl, and Selbu Bydemuseum awarded a certificate named for Emstad.


Marit Emstad Medal

The Marit Emstad medal was an silver medal given by the Selbu Husflidscentral between 1965 and 1971 to knitters "who had made especially valuable work for promoting good home crafts and small industry in Neadalen". The medal was designed by silversmith Eiliv Overvik, and it was given to a total of 26 people, including 17 women and three men from Selbu.


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{{DEFAULTSORT:Emstad, Marit 1841 births 1929 deaths 19th-century Norwegian artists 19th-century Norwegian women artists 19th-century textile artists 19th-century women textile artists 20th-century Norwegian artists 20th-century Norwegian women artists 20th-century textile artists 20th-century women textile artists People in knitting Norwegian artists Norwegian women artists