Malika Parbat (; ''Queen of the Mountains'') (el. ) is the highest peak in

Kaghan Valley The Kaghan Valley (Hindko, ) is an Alpine climate, alpine valley in Mansehra District of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, Pakistan. The valley stretches across the northern Pakistan, rising from its lowest elevation of to its highest point at the Babusar P ...

and also the highest in the

Hazara region Hazara (Hindko: هزاره; Urdu: ), historically known as Pakhli, is a region in northern Pakistan, falling administratively within the Hazara Division of the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province. It forms the northernmost portion of Sindh Sagar Doab, ...

Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Khyber Pakhtunkhwa (; ; , ; abbr. KP or KPK), formerly known as the North West Frontier Province (NWFP), is a Administrative units of Pakistan, province of Pakistan. Located in the Northern Pakistan, northwestern region of the country, Khyber ...

Pakistan Pakistan, officially the Islamic Republic of Pakistan, is a country in South Asia. It is the List of countries and dependencies by population, fifth-most populous country, with a population of over 241.5 million, having the Islam by country# ...

. It lies about south of

Lake Saiful Muluk Saiful Muluk () is a mountainous lake in northern Pakistan, located at the northern end of the Kaghan Valley, near the town of Naran in the Saiful Muluk National Park. At an elevation of 3,224 m (10,578 feet) above sea level, the lake is locat ...

, near Ansoo Lake. The mountain is clearly visible from the popular tourist spot of

. Malika Parbat is accessible from Naran-Lake Saiful Muluk side and from Batakundi-Dadar Chitta glacier. There are three summits that form Malika Parbat: Malika Parbat (North Peak), Malika Parbat Cresta, and Malika Parbat (South Peak). There are other peaks which offer considerable climbing difficulty in Siran Basin, Khabanar Valley and Burji Valley, while from Burawai, another cirque of low peaks is equally known for mountaineering.

Climbing history

Only twelve climbers have reached the top of Malika Parbat (North Peak) until now. The North Summit was firstly reached by Captain B.W. Battye and four Gurkha soldiers in 1920 followed by a second ascent made by

Trevor Braham Trevor Hyam Braham (born Hyam Trevor Braham, 22 April 1922 – 2 March 2020) was a British Himalayan explorer and mountaineer, mostly active during the mid-20th century. Early life Braham was born in Calcutta, British India. He spent much of h ...

, Norman Norris and Gene White in 1967. In 1998, two Pakistanis, Rashid Butt and Omer Aziz climbed the Malika Parbat main peak. Rashid Butt lost his life while descending down the sheer slopes on the south peak. Since then there are no available documentation regarding other ascents or attempts until in July, 2012, a Pakistani climber Imran Junaidi and Jens Simonsen from

Denmark Denmark is a Nordic countries, Nordic country in Northern Europe. It is the metropole and most populous constituent of the Kingdom of Denmark,, . also known as the Danish Realm, a constitutionally unitary state that includes the Autonomous a ...

reached the peak of Malika Parbat at . Imran Junaidi is the first Pakistani to have climbed the north peak. The mountain is considered non-climbable among the local population due to its steepness as well as supernatural hazards. The five-day climbing expedition was initiated by both climbers as an expression of growing friendship between

and

. This expedition is not only the first ever joint Pakistan-Danish climbing expedition, but it is also the first ever Pakistani ascent of the North Peak. In August 2012, an expedition of four members led by Ahmed Mujtaba Ali reported summiting the Malika Parbat. Other members of the expedition were Ahmed Naveed, Kamal Haider and Saqib Ali. The two mountaineers reached . By then, clouds had gathered and a hail storm followed. Malika Parbat is considered to be the most technical peak above 5,000 metres. Malika parbat and lake

References

External links

* {{commons category, Malika Parbat Himalayas Mountains of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Five-thousanders of the Himalayas Mansehra District

Climbing history

See also

References

Further reading

External links