Malcolm Smith (born 1973,

Dunbar Dunbar () is a town on the North Sea coast in East Lothian in the south-east of Scotland, approximately east of Edinburgh and from the Anglo–Scottish border, English border north of Berwick-upon-Tweed. Dunbar is a former royal burgh, and ...

Scotland Scotland is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. It contains nearly one-third of the United Kingdom's land area, consisting of the northern part of the island of Great Britain and more than 790 adjac ...

) is a Scottish

rock climber Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly indoor environment. Routes are documented in guidebooks, and ...

and

competition climber Competition climbing is a form of regulated rock-climbing Rock climbing is a climbing sports discipline that involves ascending routes consisting of natural rock in an outdoor environment, or on artificial resin climbing walls in a mostly ...

who won the

bouldering Bouldering is a form of rock climbing that is performed on small rock formations or Climbing wall, artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or Climbing harness, harnesses. While bouldering can be done without any equipment, most climbers ...

IFSC Climbing World Cup The IFSC Climbing World Cup is a series of competition climbing events held during the year at various locations around the world, organized by the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). At each event, the athletes compete in three d ...

in 2002. Smith is known for tough training regimes in his

. He is one of only a handful of climbers to have repeated

Fred Nicole Fred Nicole (born 21 May 1970) is a Swiss rock climber known for his first ascents of extreme sport climbing routes and for pioneering the development of standards and techniques in modern bouldering in the 1990s and early 2000s; he is considered ...

's boulder problem, ''

Dreamtime The Dreaming, also referred to as Dreamtime, is a term devised by early anthropologists to refer to a religio-cultural worldview attributed to Australian Aboriginal religion and mythology, Australian Aboriginal mythology. It was originally u ...

'' at

Cresciano Cresciano is a former municipality in the district of Riviera in the canton of Ticino in Switzerland. On 2 April 2017, the former municipalities of Iragna, Lodrino, and Osogna merged into the new municipality of Riviera. History Cresciano is ...

, and has made first ascents of boulder problems up to , such as ''Monk Life'' in

Northumberland Northumberland ( ) is a ceremonial counties of England, ceremonial county in North East England, on the Anglo-Scottish border, border with Scotland. It is bordered by the North Sea to the east, Tyne and Wear and County Durham to the south, Cumb ...

, and ''Pilgrimage'' at Parisella's Cave in North

Wales Wales ( ) is a Countries of the United Kingdom, country that is part of the United Kingdom. It is bordered by the Irish Sea to the north and west, England to the England–Wales border, east, the Bristol Channel to the south, and the Celtic ...

. Smith has also competed internationally in bouldering competitions, winning the 2002 IFSC Climbing World Cup. When he was aged 18, he repeated Ben Moon's

sport climbing Sport climbing (or bolted climbing) is a type of free climbing in the sport of rock climbing where the Lead climbing, lead climber clips their climbing rope, rope — via a quickdraw — into pre-drilled in-situ bolt (climbing), bolts for their ...

route '' Hubble'', at Raven Tor. He is the brother of Scottish visual artist Sandy Smith.

Filmography

* Documentary on Smith's training techniques: * Documentary on Smith,

Jerry Moffatt Jerry Moffatt (born 18 March 1963), is a British rock climber and climbing author who is widely considered as being the best British rock climber from the early-1980s to the early-1990s, and was arguably the best rock climber in the world in the ...

, and Ben Moon bouldering in

: * Documentary on British bouldering:

Notable ascents

First ascents unless otherwise stated.

Routes

1991 Magnetic Fields, F8b, Malham Cove. Repeat. 1992 Hubble, F8c+, Raven Tor. Second ascent. Now sometimes considered F9a, which would make Malcolm the 3rd man ever to climb F9a. 1993 Steall Appeal, F8b, Steall Hut Crag. 1994 Transcendence, E8 6c, Back Bowden Doors. Malcolm originally gave the route E9 7a but it was downgraded by second ascendent Robin Barker also in 1994. It received its 3rd ascent in 2019. 2000 Transform, F8c, Malham Cove. 2007 Black Out, F8c, The Anvil. 2007 The Smiddy, F8b+, The Anvil. 2008 Unjustified, F8c, Malham Cove. Repeat. 2010 Blood Diamond, F8c+, The Anvil. 2010 Hunger, F9a, The Anvil. Scotland’s first F9a.

Bouldering

2001 Eight Ball, Font 8b, Gardoms Edge. Second or third ascent. 2001 Careless Torque, Font 8a+, Stanage Plantation. Second ascent. 2001 The Ace, Font 8b, Stanage Plantation. Second or third ascent. 2003 Lothlorian, Font 8b, Kyloe-in-the-woods. 2003 Leviathan, Font 8b+, Kyloe-in-the-woods. 2003 Monk Life, Font 8b+, Kyloe-in-the-woods. 2004 Pilgrimage, Font 8b+, Parisella's Cave. 2004 ''

'', Font 8c, Cresciano. Some give it Font 8b+. 2005 Supersize Me, Font 8b, Dumbarton Rock. 2007 The Serum of Sisyphus, Font 8a+, Dumbarton Rock. 2010 Gut buster, Font 8b+, Dumbarton Rock. 2010 Grande Tour, Font 8b, Dumbarton Rock. 2010 Firefight, Font 8b, Dumbarton Rock. Sent on same day as Grande Tour. 2010 Le Saboteur, Font 8a+, Dumbarton Rock. 2010 Perfect Crime Extension, Font 8a+, Dumbarton Rock.

References

External links